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Climbs 10
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1021m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

Two crags overlooking Ballabio: Dito Dones and Zucco di Teral.

Dito Dones is the prominent tower on the west side of the valley with the longest route (Via Lunga) of essentially 5 pictures. Several alternative pitches, mainly on the final part of the tower, can be accessed from this route, from walking up around the side, or up the descent path for those on the final part of the tower. A 40m abseil is needed to descend from the top of the tower to the descent path, or else use the via ferrata.

Zucco di Teral is a slabby rock face on the hillside above the tower with five-pitch routes, descent by abseil, 50m double/twin ropes recommended.

Further info (in Italian) and the topos here (also for many other crags in the area):

Good topo here.

Approach notes

From the roundabout at the southern end of Ballabio take the road north-west towards Pian del Resinelli.  After 900m the closest parking lot, with space for about 10 cars, is just before the road turns left and crosses the stream (then the Via Grigna is on the right). Other parking lots lower down in Ballabio should not excessively prolong the walk-in.

At the southern end of the aforementioned parking lot take a narrow walkway between two buildings on the west side of the road, where a path quickly heads up into the forested hillside.  Follow the path to some buildings in a clearing, and possibly a bull too.  Continue onwards on the path towards the right hand side of the obvious rock tower to where a cairn marks the start of Via Lunga on Dito Dones, c.1000m, 200m height gain.

Shortly after the cairn, a scree-filled gully can be followed to the top of the 2nd and then the 3rd pitches of Via Lunga, thereby accessing other climbs on the face, and Diedro Obliquo with the aid of a via ferrata.

To access Zucco di Teral continue up the main path to a saddle, then go left up the hill and back towards the tower, finally on a narrow path with chains traversing under a steep rocky face (this is also the descent path for Dito Dones).  Shortly before the tower is reached a rather steep via feratta leads to the crag. 

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