UKC

Climbs 138
Rocktype Culm

Descending the quick way! © Joel Perkin

Crag features

This refers to the mile or so long length of cliff, south of Northcott Mouth, almost to Bude.

There are a couple of useful PDF guides for the Kloptomaniac area and Skull and Crossbones Wall at http://www.javu.co.uk

Bouldering is covered in Dave Westlake's excellent mini guide http://javu.co.uk

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Northcott Beach Watford Gap Area
2 Christmas Crack HVS 4c 1
3 Comitted VS 4a 1
4 Committed again E1 4c  
5 J Lo f7C ** 20
6 Watford Gap Arete
-
V3 6a 9
  Unshore Rock
8 Dark Night
-
E5 6a/b *  
9 Angry Cockroaches
-
E6 6c *  
10 After Dark
-
E4 6a * 3
11 Mexican Blackbird
-
E6 6b  
12 Bronco Belayer
-
HVS  
  The Black Wall
14 Sundance (Start) f6C+ ** 1
15 Sundance (Full Traverse) f6C+ ** 2
16 The Needle Tree
-
E3 5a  
17 The Ungrateful Seconds
-
E6 6a 3
18 Bugsy E6 6a ** 4
19 Big Black
-
E6 6a * 2
20 Fortune Faces the Brave
-
E6 6a/b **  
21 Twilight Waters E4 5c 1
22 Oceans E5 6a/b *** 1
23 Night Maer
-
E6 6a  
24 Ground Fall
-
E1 5a  
  The Name Zawn
26 Undercut Problem E3 6b ** 5
27 Ben's Traverse f7B 1
28 The Name Doesn't Matter Start (Left-Hand) f7A+ *** 2
29 The Name Doesn't Matter
-
E6 6b **  
30 Hendo's Wall f7B+  
31 Bodysnatchers
-
E6 6b * 1
32 Warts E3 6a  
33 Nameless Arete f6C  
  The Pinch
35 Limpet f5+ 1
36 Rock Pool f6A+ 1
37 Rock Hopper f6B 1
38 The Cinch f6B+ * 3
39 The Cinch SDS f7A+ * 1
40 The Pinch f7A *** 33
41 The Pinch Right f6A+ 2
42 Tide Line f5+ 1
  Kleptomaniac Area
44 Shadows VD * 17
45 Shades HVD 22
46 Sun
-
VS 4c 47
47 Sea
-
VS 4b 28
48 Sand
-
HVS 5b 29
49 Surf HVS 5a 4
50 Sewage HS 4c * 9
51 Joseph HS 6
Climb name Grade
52 Strawberry Something HS 4a 2
53 Kleptomaniac
-
E1 5b ** 58
54 Hadrian E2 5b 15
55 Bronte E2 5c ** 18
56 Foxman and Robin's Zawn Duel E3 5b  
57 Fears for Tears Direct Start HVS 5a 9
58 Fear of Tears VS 4c 4
59 Kicking Over the Traces
-
E1 5b * 25
60 Fears for Tears VS 4c 15
61 The Wall
-
E1 5b * 47
62 It'll End in Smears
-
E2 5b 2
63 Tormented Tendon E4 6a * 2
64 Midst of a Trauma E5 6a 3
65 Aardvark VS 4c 12
66 Turn Left at the Roundabout E2 5b 1
67 Dangerous Driver
-
E1 5b 9
68 Straight on at the Lights E1 5b 6
69 Culmination
-
E3 5b 1
  Railed Wall
71 Railed f6C+ 4
72 Jamming f6A+ 3
73 Middle Crack f4+ 1
74 Writers' Guild f6B * 2
75 Steep Crack f5+ 1
76 Undercut Slab V4+ 2
  Pearce's Cove
78 Short Wall f3 2
79 Tension Gash f6A 2
80 Pearce's Cove Crack f4+ 2
81 Low Tide f4 2
82 Cove Wall f4 2
83 Coast Path f4+ 2
84 High Tide f4 2
85 Rising Tides f4+ 2
86 Beach Yoga f4 1
87 Wet Suit f4 1
88 Oh Bouy f5 1
89 Life Guard f5+ 1
90 Whole Lotta Love f4 1
  The Black Cave (Red Quinne)
92 Macca's Problem V5 6a ** 1
93 Beach Bum f6A+ 1
94 Flake Sitter f4+ 1
95 Red Quinne Cave Traverse f7A+ ** 27
96 Captain Crush f7C+ *** 2
97 Red Quinne
-
f7C *** 10
98 Quinne Groove f5+ 1
99 J Dog f6B  
  Ulterior Motive Area
101 Unnamed (rear of the Ulterior Motive block) f6B 2
102 Alternative Motive f7A+ 6
Climb name Grade
103 Ulterior Motive f7C * 3
104 Ulterior Motive (stand Start)
-
f7A 11
105 Slopeless Nights f6C 3
106 Earthquake Arete V1  
107 Left Arete f5+ 3
108 Alternative Motive (Standing Start)
-
f5+ 4
109 Right Arete f4+ 5
110 Dot Matrix V1 4
111 Captain Beans V2 ** 2
112 Typo Negative V0+  
113 Crystal Crimp V0+ 1
  The Wafer
115 Horn of Plenty HVD * 2
116 South face of the Horn
-
HS 4b 8
117 Tide dancer HVS 5b 4
118 Imminent Departure S 5a 5
119 The Roaming Sceptic HVS 5a * 2
120 The Unending Cynic S 5b * 4
121 The Doubter S 5b 5
122 The Naysayer S 5c ** 4
123 Departed along the Dutch S 5b ** 5
124 Cold Feet S 5c ** 5
125 Dutch Departure
-
E2 5c 1
126 The Perpetual Pessimist VS 5a 11
127 The Optimistic Pessimist HVS 4c 9
128 Misplaced Optimism HVS 5a ** 4
129 Skull and Crossbones HVS 4c ** 7
130 The Eternal Optimist E2 5b ** 7
131 Suicidal Optimist
-
E3 5c 1
132 Turbid Legacy
-
E2 5c ** 9
133 Probing Phobia
-
E3 5b  
134 Freedom
-
E4 6b * 1
135 Cry of Love
-
E3 5c *  
136 Little Big Horn Left Hand Arete
-
V1 5b 3
137 Little Big Horn Central 6a
-
V3 6a 1
138 Mark's Slab Left Hand Crack V1 5b *  
139 Mark's Slab traverse V5 6b * 2
140 Mark's Slab crackline V0 5a * 1
  Flaxen Wall
142 Till Dreaming's Done E1 5c *** 8
143 Millenium HVS 5b * 20
144 Liberty Cap f6C+ * 1
  Wrangle Point
146 Surfers' Slab
-
VS 4a  
147 Hassle HVS 4b * 3
148 Hussle
-
HVS 4b  
149 Prevarication
-
HVS  
150 Serpico
-
E1 5b  
151 Ironside
-
HVS 4c  

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