UKC

Climbs 129
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Two jugs are better than one… Philatus E3 5c © Ben Richards

Crag features

Subluminal is the place everybody heads to for a first taste of Swanage steepness. The main reason for its popularity is the good selection of solid, short and amenably graded routes. Access is quick and there is a good ledge system running beneath the climbs that is well clear of the waves giving the place a friendly atmosphere. It lies just west of the lighthouse and the Black Zawn beneath open grass slopes. There is a clean-cut ledge above the climbs for gearing up and socialising, along with plentiful stakes for belays. Many of the climbs offer technical and fingery exercises as well as some bulging test-pieces in the Avernus Area.

Approach notes

Walk down the tarmac road from Durlston Car Park. From the lighthouse, a track leads diagonally right (looking out) down the grass slope to cliff-top ledges situated 100m west of the Black Zawn. It is only a 10 minute walk from the car park and all the climbs are approached by a short abseil from stakes above. The best abseil line is down High Street which also doubles as a good escape route.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Face Area
2 Nutcracker Traverse
-
S * 17
3 Subnutcracker
-
S * 19
4 Subluminal Traverse
-
HVS 5b 7
5 Via Christina HVS 5a ** 87
6 Dead Good E5 6b 4
7 Greasy Chimney VD 247
8 Gulp S 4a 1
9 Suspension S 4a * 497
10 Whynot HS 4b * 161
11 Dolphin VS 4b 134
12 Curving Crack S 4a * 647
13 Face Left VS 4b * 26
14 Face S 4a * 611
15 Face Central VS 4c * 196
16 Face Away VS 4c * 182
17 Grey Rib HS 4b 12
18 Tittsworth HVS 5a * 122
19 Dead Man Hunt E1 5b * 33
20 Baboon HVS 5b * 200
21 The Grobbler E1 5b * 42
22 Transcript Direct HVS 5a * 280
23 Paralysis E2 5c 88
  Stroof Area
25 Balcony HS 4b ** 1170
26 Gangway S * 1173
27 Joker VS 5a 161
28 Juggler E1 5b * 103
29 Stroof E1 5c ** 435
30 Graunchy Grippers E1 5b * 110
31 Spreadeagle VS 5a * 848
32 Back Street VS 4c * 543
33 High Street D * 1487
34 Station Road Variation E1 6a 15
35 Station Road HS 4b 280
36 Bypass S * 1020
37 Slip Road VS 4c * 553
38 Republic E2 6a 15
  Freda Area
40 Thompson's Chimney HS 4b * 235
41 Straits of Hormuz E3 6a 1
42 Botany Bay VS 4c * 233
43 Battleship Bow HVS 4c * 47
44 Double Chockstone HVD * 514
45 Skinhead HVS 5a 90
46 Bird's Nest S 4a 324
47 Puffin VS 5a * 180
Climb name Grade
48 The Indirect Route E1 14
49 First Corner S 4b ** 846
50 Philatus E3 5c ** 194
51 Poetry in Motion E3 6a * 78
52 Second Corner S 4a ** 967
53 Freda VS 5a *** 895
54 Freda (Direct) HVS 5a 7
55 Grandma's Groove E2 5c ** 163
56 Grandpa's Grope VS 4c * 178
57 Pedestal Crack D 424
58 Interlude HS 4a 4
59 Pedestal Face VS 4b * 109
60 Predestal Direct HVS 5a 1
61 Pedestal Chimney VD 242
  Avernus Area
63 Styx S 38
64 Cerberus S 4a 17
65 Strenuosity HVS 4c 6
66 Graduation Day E2 5c * 8
67 The Ferryman Waits E3 6a 2
68 Avernus S 4a *** 442
69 Crepitus HVS 4c 2
70 Rainy Day, Dream Away E2 5c 2
71 Chance Encounter E4 6a  
72 All the Shakespearoes E3 5c * 8
73 The Great Rock 'n' Dole Swindle E3 6a *  
74 Tangerine Dream E1 5b * 12
75 A Subtle Shade of Emptiness E5 6b **  
76 Close to the Sun E4 6b *  
77 Gentle Touch
-
HVS 4c 2
78 Vaseline
-
VS 5a 3
  Lighthouse Cliffs
  Black Zawn
81 Grooved Arete VS 4b 17
82 Deaf Boy Hug
-
E3 5c *  
83 Sweet Sixteen E5 6a * 2
84 The Peccary E2 5b ** 62
85 Astrid HVS 5a ** 176
86 Morbid Orbit
-
E2 5b 1
87 Melpomene E4 5c *** 21
88 Mars E2 5b *** 105
89 Triton
-
E3 5c 1
90 Achelous E5 6a *  
91 Döckalfer E1 5c 1
92 Io VS 5a * 24
93 Last Great Innocent E5 6b *  
94 The Barrel *
-
E1 5b 1
Climb name Grade
  Mellow Yellow Ledge
96 Mellow Yellow VS 4c ** 130
97 Catch the Wind
-
E3 5c 3
98 Ray of Sunshine E2 5c ** 55
99 Cider With Rosie E4 6a * 2
100 Magic Mountain E5 6a * 5
101 Magic Mushroom E4 6a ** 3
102 Fraggle Rock HVS 5a ** 52
  Gold Ledge
104 Live at the Witch Trials E2 5b * 16
105 Hard Nose the Highway HVS 5a * 37
106 Harvest Gold HVS 4c * 54
107 Yellow Brick Road VS 5a * 38
  Toad Ledge Area
109 Shakin' Off the Ghosts HVS 5a 5
110 Zoe VS 5a 17
111 Lizzie
-
HVS 5a 4
112 Babes in Toyland HVS 5a * 3
113 Rout HVS 5b 15
114 Surface Hippy VS 4c * 10
115 Under Toad
-
S 4a 12
116 Stone Doubt
-
VD 3
117 Mother Duck
-
HVS 5a 3
  Scotsman Chimney Area
119 Drop in the Ocean
-
HVS 4c * 4
120 Heathcliffe E2 6a 1
121 Withering Heights E1 5b 10
122 No Great Shakes
-
VS 4c 4
123 Accidents Never Happen VS 4c 3
124 Dreamboat Annie
-
VS 4c 4
125 Scotsman Chimney
-
VD 5
126 Rhodesian's Retreat
-
VD 5
127 UDI
-
S 2
128 ZAPU
-
VD 3
129 ZANU
-
S 3
130 Traverse of the Gods HVS 5a *** 28
  Birds Nest Bay
132 Stir Crazy
-
6a+ * 8
133 The Puzzle
-
6c+ * 4
134 Bathtubb
-
6b * 5
135 Bird's Nest Arete
-
5c * 12
136 Sweet Surrender
-
6b ** 11
137 White Flag
-
5c * 10
138 Gid's Landing
-
5a * 14
139 The Scotty Dog Traverse
-
6a+ * 19
140 Mars With Original Melpomene Finsih E2 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999