Climbs 124
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Two jugs are better than one… Philatus E3 5c © Ben Richards

Crag features

Subluminal is the place everybody heads to for a first taste of Swanage steepness. The main reason for its popularity is the good selection of solid, short and amenably graded routes. Access is quick and there is a good ledge system running beneath the climbs that is well clear of the waves giving the place a friendly atmosphere. It lies just west of the lighthouse and the Black Zawn beneath open grass slopes. There is a clean-cut ledge above the climbs for gearing up and socialising, along with plentiful stakes for belays. Many of the climbs offer technical and fingery exercises as well as some bulging test-pieces in the Avernus Area.

Approach notes

Walk down the tarmac road from Durlston Car Park. From the lighthouse, a track leads diagonally right (looking out) down the grass slope to cliff-top ledges situated 100m west of the Black Zawn. It is only a 10 minute walk from the car park and all the climbs are approached by a short abseil from stakes above. The best abseil line is down High Street which also doubles as a good escape route.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Face Area
2 Nutcracker Traverse
-
S * 17
3 Subnutcracker
-
S * 16
4 Subluminal Traverse
-
HVS 5b 8
5 Via Christina HVS 5a ** 94
6 Dead Good E5 6b 4
7 Greasy Chimney VD 244
8 Suspension S 4a * 492
9 Whynot HS 4b * 155
10 Dolphin VS 4b 127
11 Curving Crack S 4a * 632
12 Face Left VS 4b * 25
13 Face S 4a * 594
14 Face Central VS 4c * 177
15 Face Away VS 4c * 168
16 Grey Rib HS 4b 6
17 Tittsworth HVS 5a * 114
18 Dead Man Hunt E1 5b * 29
19 Baboon HVS 5b * 189
20 The Grobbler E1 5b * 39
21 Transcript Direct HVS 5a * 256
22 Paralysis E2 5c 84
  Stroof Area
24 Balcony HS 4b ** 1101
25 Gangway S * 1078
26 Joker VS 5a 148
27 Juggler E1 5b * 95
28 Stroof E1 5c ** 414
29 Graunchy Grippers E1 5b * 102
30 Spreadeagle VS 5a * 769
31 Back Street VS 4c * 498
32 High Street D * 1380
33 Station Road Variation E1 6a 13
34 Station Road HS 4b 253
35 Bypass S * 963
36 Slip Road VS 4c * 517
37 Republic E2 6a 15
  Freda Area
39 Thompson's Chimney HS 4b * 223
40 Straits of Hormuz E3 6a 1
41 Botany Bay VS 4c * 233
42 Battleship Bow HVS 4c * 42
43 Double Chockstone HVD * 485
44 Skinhead HVS 5a 83
45 Bird's Nest S 4a 297
46 Puffin VS 5a * 172
47 The Indirect Route E1 13
48 First Corner S 4b ** 791
49 Philatus E3 5c ** 185
50 Poetry in Motion E3 6a * 67
51 Second Corner S 4a ** 903
52 Freda VS 5a *** 862
53 Freda (Direct) HVS 5a 4
54 Grandma's Groove E2 5c ** 161
55 Grandpa's Grope VS 4c * 167
56 Pedestal Crack D 401
57 Interlude HS 4a 4
58 Pedestal Face VS 4b * 104
59 Pedestal Chimney VD 244
  Avernus Area
61 Styx S 37
62 Cerberus S 4a 14
63 Strenuosity HVS 4c 5
64 Graduation Day E2 5c * 7
65 The Ferryman Waits E3 6a 2
66 Avernus S 4a *** 478
67 Crepitus HVS 4c 2
68 Rainy Day, Dream Away E2 5c 2
69 Chance Encounter E4 6a  
70 All the Shakespearoes E3 5c * 8
71 The Great Rock 'n' Dole Swindle E3 6a *  
72 Tangerine Dream E1 5b * 10
73 A Subtle Shade of Emptiness E5 6b **  
74 Close to the Sun E4 6b *  
75 Gentle Touch
-
HVS 4c 2
76 Vaseline
-
VS 5a 3
  Lighthouse Cliffs
  Black Zawn
79 Grooved Arete VS 4b 17
80 Deaf Boy Hug
-
E3 5c *  
81 Sweet Sixteen E5 6a * 2
82 The Peccary E2 5b ** 51
83 Astrid HVS 5a ** 187
84 Morbid Orbit
-
E2 5b 1
85 Melpomene E4 5c *** 16
86 Mars E2 5b *** 133
87 Triton
-
E3 5c 1
88 Achelous E5 6a *  
89 Io VS 5a * 21
90 Last Great Innocent E5 6b *  
  Mellow Yellow Ledge
92 Mellow Yellow VS 4c ** 123
93 Catch the Wind
-
E3 5c 3
94 Ray of Sunshine E2 5c ** 45
95 Magic Mountain E5 6a * 2
96 Magic Mushroom E4 6a ** 3
97 Fraggle Rock HVS 5a ** 46
  Gold Ledge
99 Live at the Witch Trials E2 5b * 16
100 Hard Nose the Highway HVS 5a * 37
101 Harvest Gold HVS 4c * 48
102 Yellow Brick Road VS 5a * 36
  Toad Ledge Area
104 Shakin' Off the Ghosts HVS 5a 4
105 Zoe VS 5a 15
106 Lizzie
-
HVS 5a 3
107 Babes in Toyland HVS 5a * 2
108 Rout HVS 5b 13
109 Surface Hippy VS 4c * 7
110 Under Toad
-
S 4a 10
111 Stone Doubt
-
VD 3
112 Mother Duck
-
HVS 5a 3
  Scotsman Chimney Area
114 Drop in the Ocean
-
HVS 4c * 4
115 Heathcliffe E2 6a 1
116 Withering Heights E1 5b 10
117 No Great Shakes
-
VS 4c 4
118 Accidents Never Happen VS 4c 3
119 Dreamboat Annie
-
VS 4c 4
120 Scotsman Chimney
-
VD 5
121 Rhodesian's Retreat
-
VD 5
122 UDI
-
S 2
123 ZAPU
-
VD 3
124 ZANU
-
S 3
125 Traverse of the Gods HVS 5a *** 27
  Birds Nest Bay
127 Stir Crazy
-
6a+ * 8
128 The Puzzle
-
6c+ * 4
129 Bathtubb
-
6b * 5
130 Bird's Nest Arete
-
5c * 12
131 Sweet Surrender
-
6b ** 11
132 White Flag
-
5c * 9
133 Gid's Landing
-
5a * 12
134 The Scotty Dog Traverse
-
6a+ * 16
135 Mars With Original Melpomene Finsih E2 5c 1

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