Climbs 124
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Two jugs are better than one… Philatus E3 5c © Ben Richards

Crag features

Subluminal is the place everybody heads to for a first taste of Swanage steepness. The main reason for its popularity is the good selection of solid, short and amenably graded routes. Access is quick and there is a good ledge system running beneath the climbs that is well clear of the waves giving the place a friendly atmosphere. It lies just west of the lighthouse and the Black Zawn beneath open grass slopes. There is a clean-cut ledge above the climbs for gearing up and socialising, along with plentiful stakes for belays. Many of the climbs offer technical and fingery exercises as well as some bulging test-pieces in the Avernus Area.

Approach notes

Walk down the tarmac road from Durlston Car Park. From the lighthouse, a track leads diagonally right (looking out) down the grass slope to cliff-top ledges situated 100m west of the Black Zawn. It is only a 10 minute walk from the car park and all the climbs are approached by a short abseil from stakes above. The best abseil line is down High Street which also doubles as a good escape route.

Access Advice

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Face Area 
2Nutcracker Traverse
-
S *20
3Subnutcracker
-
S *17
4Subluminal Traverse
-
HVS 5b 8
5Via ChristinaHVS 5a **89
6Dead GoodE5 6b 4
7Greasy ChimneyVD 235
8SuspensionS 4a *471
9WhynotHS 4b *147
10DolphinVS 4b 127
11Curving CrackS 4a *617
12Face LeftVS 4b *23
13FaceS 4a *584
14Face CentralVS 4c *178
15Face AwayVS 4c *168
16Grey RibHS 4b 6
17TittsworthHVS 5a *107
18Dead Man HuntE1 5b *30
19BaboonHVS 5b *183
20The GrobblerE1 5b *40
21Transcript DirectHVS 5a *243
22ParalysisE2 5c 82
 Stroof Area 
24BalconyHS 4b **1052
25GangwayS *1040
26JokerVS 5a 133
27JugglerE1 5b *96
28StroofE1 5c **395
29Graunchy GrippersE1 5b *95
30SpreadeagleVS 5a *737
31Back StreetVS 4c *480
32High StreetD *1342
33Station Road VariationE1 6a 13
34Station RoadHS 4b 241
35BypassS *939
36Slip RoadVS 4c *501
37RepublicE2 6a 12
 Freda Area 
39Thompson's ChimneyHS 4b *218
40Straits of HormuzE3 6a 1
41Botany BayVS 4c *227
42Battleship BowHVS 4c *42
43Double ChockstoneHVD *471
44SkinheadHVS 5a 80
45Bird's NestS 4a 289
46PuffinVS 5a *170
47The Indirect RouteE1 13
48First CornerS 4b **761
49PhilatusE3 5c **180
50Poetry in MotionE3 6a *69
51Second CornerS 4a **867
52FredaVS 5a ***822
53Freda (Direct)HVS 5a 4
54Grandma's GrooveE2 5c **153
55Grandpa's GropeVS 4c *157
56Pedestal CrackD 393
57InterludeHS 4a 3
58Pedestal FaceVS 4b *112
59Pedestal ChimneyVD 237
 Avernus Area 
61StyxS 43
62CerberusS 4a 20
63StrenuosityHVS 4c 5
64Graduation DayE2 5c *7
65The Ferryman WaitsE3 6a 2
66AvernusS 4a ***462
67CrepitusHVS 4c 2
68Rainy Day, Dream AwayE2 5c 2
69Chance EncounterE4 6a  
70All the ShakespearoesE3 5c *8
71The Great Rock 'n' Dole SwindleE3 6a * 
72Tangerine DreamE1 5b *10
73A Subtle Shade of EmptinessE5 6b ** 
74Close to the SunE4 6b * 
75Gentle Touch
-
HVS 4c 2
76Vaseline
-
VS 5a 3
 Lighthouse Cliffs 
 Black Zawn 
79Grooved AreteVS 4b 16
80Deaf Boy Hug
-
E3 5c * 
81Sweet SixteenE5 6a *2
82The PeccaryE2 5b **53
83AstridHVS 5a **185
84Morbid Orbit
-
E2 5b 1
85MelpomeneE4 5c ***15
86MarsE2 5b ***131
87Triton
-
E3 5c 1
88AchelousE5 6a * 
89IoVS 5a *21
90Last Great InnocentE5 6b * 
 Mellow Yellow Ledge 
92Mellow YellowVS 4c **133
93Catch the Wind
-
E3 5c 3
94Ray of SunshineE2 5c **48
95Magic MountainE5 6a *2
96Magic MushroomE4 6a **3
97Fraggle RockHVS 5a **46
 Gold Ledge 
99Live at the Witch TrialsE2 5b *16
100Hard Nose the HighwayHVS 5a *37
101Harvest GoldHVS 4c *48
102Yellow Brick RoadVS 5a *36
 Toad Ledge Area 
104Shakin' Off the GhostsHVS 5a 4
105ZoeVS 5a 15
106Lizzie
-
HVS 5a 3
107Babes in ToylandHVS 5a *2
108RoutHVS 5b 13
109Surface HippyVS 4c *7
110Under Toad
-
S 4a 10
111Stone Doubt
-
VD 3
112Mother Duck
-
HVS 5a 3
 Scotsman Chimney Area 
114Drop in the Ocean
-
HVS 4c *4
115HeathcliffeE2 6a 1
116Withering HeightsE1 5b 10
117No Great Shakes
-
VS 4c 4
118Accidents Never HappenVS 4c 3
119Dreamboat Annie
-
VS 4c 4
120Scotsman Chimney
-
VD 5
121Rhodesian's Retreat
-
VD 5
122UDI
-
S 2
123ZAPU
-
VD 3
124ZANU
-
S 3
125Traverse of the GodsHVS 5a ***27
 Birds Nest Bay 
127Stir Crazy
-
6a+ *8
128The Puzzle
-
6c+ *4
129Bathtubb
-
6b *5
130Bird's Nest Arete
-
5c *12
131Sweet Surrender
-
6b **11
132White Flag
-
5c *9
133Gid's Landing
-
5a *12
134The Scotty Dog Traverse
-
6a+ *15
135Mars With Original Melpomene FinsihE2 5c 1

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