Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 286
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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View from the bottom - Boulder Ruckle, looking west © ChrisBrooke

Crag features

The white and yellow striped walls of the Boulder Ruckle make up the showpiece crag of Swanage. The Ruckle, as it is affectionately known, runs westwards from Subluminal, unbroken for over a kilometre and, at over forty metres in height, it offers fear, exhilaration and many sensationally-positioned routes. The grade range of Severe to E6 means that it will appeal to most, however, with the seriousness of the free-hanging approach abseils, the awkward escape routes and the broken finishes, it becomes a less attractive option for inexperienced teams. Nevertheless, for those in search of an adventurous mission, don a helmet, dust off the prusik loops and prepare to do battle on some fine atmospheric classics with little liklihood of having to queue.

The walls of The Ruckle are especially good for those operating in the HVS to E3 range. Fortunately, protection possibilities are usually in good supply with the unrelenting steepness of the rock accounting for the grade on most climbs, rather than any great technical difficulty or terrifying bold run-outs.

Approach notes

Walk down the tarmac road from Durlston car park, then head west along the coast path (right - looking out). A cliff-top track runs below this and the abseil stakes are found near this lower path. The first area arrived at is a 10 minute walk, and the furthest area takes around 20 minutes. 

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage (2015)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

Out of print:
There is a combo for almost every route in the ruckle, Please put them in the route notes, as I feel there is no need to clutter the page with hundreds of link ups. Thank you Marti
Marti999 - 01/Mar/15
in all likelyhood t-shirt weather
uncontrollable - 08/Dec/12
does anyone know what, this place is like in January?
konna - 14/Jan/12
Do NOT rely on Larus as an escape route, or a route for that matter. Easiest solid route in Boulder Ruckle Central is now E1. The rockfall appears to extend close to the break and belay half way up. May affect routes immediately left of Larus (only in CC guide) as well.
IainAM - 31/Aug/09
I meant Larus HS
lmarenzi - 07/May/08
Abbed in off Marmolata Buttress on May 2nd. Either my eyesight is going or what used to be Jason HS is now mostly part of the boulders in the sea.
lmarenzi - 05/May/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lean Machine Wall
2 Paradise Street S 4b * 4
3 The Roaring Forties
-
E2 5b 3
4 Sirius E3 5b * 28
5 Wild at Heart E4 6a 1
6 Punks in Power E5 6b ** 3
7 The Lean Machine E5 6a *** 57
8 Buzz Cocked
-
E5 6b  
9 Green Machine
-
E5 6a  
10 Surge Control E5 6b *** 12
11 The Roaring Boys E6 6b *  
12 The Men They Couldn't Hang
-
E4 5c  
13 Apex Corner E1 5a 8
14 Charge of the Wild Horsemen E1 5b 3
15 Charge of the Light Brigade E1 5b 2
16 The Lusty, Decadent Delights of Imperial Pompeii
-
E4 6a  
17 Alien Hum
-
E3 5c  
18 Gnarly Scar Tissue
-
E5 6b  
19 High Noon
-
E2 5b 2
20 I Just Wanna Be Free
-
E6 6b  
21 I Got the Spirit
-
E6 6b  
22 Primrose Hill
-
E1 5a 2
23 Amnesia
-
E2 5b  
24 Jugs in Space
-
E4 6a 1
25 Yellow-Bellied Fink
-
E4 6a  
26 The Orange-Throated Gronk E2 5b  
  Ocean Boulevard Wall
28 Le Jaune Mechanique E4 5c * 3
29 Barracuda E4 5c *** 66
30 Tuna Lick E5 6a *  
31 Ocean Boulevard E3 5b *** 283
32 Mother Africa E4 6a *** 84
33 The Great Hunter House Milk Robbery E5 6a * 10
34 Wall of the Worlds E5 6a *** 92
35 The Last Hurrah of the Golden Horde E3 5c 9
36 The Ramp S 4a 33
37 Indian Pacific E5 6a ** 3
38 The First Och Aye of the Tartan Army E3 5b * 3
39 Screaming Blue Messiah E3 6a 1
40 Queen of Carp E5 6b  
41 Under the Bored Walk
-
HVS 4c  
42 Old Ghosts (Scare Me Most)
-
E3 6a 2
43 Jonah VS 4b 16
44 Road to Ruin
-
E2 5b 2
45 In Triplicate
-
HVS 5b 1
46 Due Care and Attention
-
HS 4a 25
47 Displacement Activity
-
E1 5b 3
48 Higgins
-
VS 4c 16
49 Jericho Groove HS 4b * 232
  Aventura Area
51 Herem Roof
-
E4 6a  
52 Cold Comfort
-
HVS 4c 4
53 Cold Comfort Variation VS 4b * 1
54 Chamberwall II HVS  
55 Chamberwall HVS  
56 Vicissitude
-
VS 4c 5
57 Black Sunshine HVS 4c ** 214
58 Dark Side of the Sun E1 5b ** 67
59 Springbok Route VS 4c 3
60 Nassty Spider E2 5c * 26
61 Aventura HVS 4c ** 303
62 Judgement Day E2 5c 4
63 Death is a Gift HVS 5a 18
64 Bottomless Buttress HS 4b * 396
65 The Dead Can't Judge HVS 4c * 4
66 Andycap HVS 4c 2
67 Tim
-
HS 11
68 Silhouette Arête VS 4c ** 289
69 The Fin E5 6a ** 3
70 Cima Petite E4 6a ** 2
71 Luke
-
E1 5b 2
72 Rhino HVS 4c 9
73 The Earth's at Flashpoint
-
E5 6a  
74 Nuclear Sunset
-
E3 6a  
75 Tomorrow's Grief
-
VS 4c 38
76 Fetish
-
HVS 5a 4
77 Perversion
-
VS 4b  
78 Midge
-
E2 5b 2
79 Happy David
-
E1 5b  
80 The Corpse
-
E1 5a 1
  Relax and Swing Area
82 William McGonagall
-
E4 6a  
83 Moonraker
-
VS 5a 5
84 Sun Streets E2 5b * 19
85 Snowdrop E1 5b * 36
86 Raindrop
-
HVS 5b  
87 St. Elmo's Firé E3 5c ** 13
88 Lunatic
-
E3 5c  
89 Thunderball E1 5b *** 167
90 Jo HVS 5a *** 250
91 Thor HVS 5b * 22
92 Relax and Swing E5 6a *** 5
93 Sardine Special E5 6b *  
94 Third World
-
E4 6a  
95 Jug Index E4 6b *  
96 Dogwatch E3 5c 3
97 Coral Slabs
-
E3 5c 2
98 Mongoose
-
E3 5b 2
99 Future Primitive E4 6b *  
100 Vicky the Viking
-
E2 5c  
Climb name Grade
101 Rainbow
-
VS 4b 5
102 Get Outta Your Armchair and Into This
-
E5 6a  
  The Grim Reaper Area
104 Viper
-
HVS 4c  
105 Asp VS 4c ** 34
106 Enos
-
VS 4c 4
107 Mr Punch E1 5a * 4
108 Cloud Nine
-
HVS * 5
109 High Cirrus
-
E3 5c  
110 Hard Day's Night
-
HVS 4c 4
111 The Cat Skinner HVS 4c  
112 Bunch of Weirdos
-
E4 6a  
113 Ulysses
-
E1 5b  
114 Prayers for Rain E3 5c * 9
115 The Grim Reaper E1 5a * 35
116 Alas, Poor Yorick E4 6a *  
117 Scythe E3 5b * 3
118 Talking to the Angel
-
E4 6a 1
119 Razor Blade Smile E5 6c *  
120 Blow the House Down E3 5c * 1
121 Gold Fever E4 5c * 1
122 Little Matterhorn
-
VS 4c  
123 Waiting for God
-
E6 6b  
  Buccaneer Area
125 Ilium
-
E1 5b 3
126 Larus (pre 2008 Rockfall) HS 4b 6
127 Larus (reclimbed after 2008 rockfall) E1 5b 16
128 Joe 90 E5 6a ** 10
129 Flying Finish E2 5b * 19
130 Billy Pigg E1 5b ** 125
131 Rattler E1 5b * 36
132 Fish Supper E3 5c * 13
133 Sinbad E1 5b ** 111
134 Sinawful E2 5c ** 1
135 Mickey Mouse E3 6a *** 45
136 Buccaneer E2 5b *** 150
137 Ishmael
-
E3 5b 5
138 Cutlass E5 6a *  
139 Bosun's Wall HVS 5a * 24
140 Coxwain's Route
-
VS 4c 2
141 Sheerline
-
VS 4c 10
142 Kittiwake
-
VS 4b 5
143 Diagonal HVS 5a,4c 25
144 High Tide and Green Grass VS 5a 30
145 No Diagonal HVS 5a * 3
146 Dandruff HVS 4c  
147 Smokestack Lightening E1 5b 3
148 Koo-Koo E2 5c * 7
  Marmolata Area
150 RIP HVS 4c 13
151 Headstone
-
E3 6a  
152 Wide Awake in America E6 6b ** 6
153 Sweet and Sour
-
VS 4c 11
154 Boatpusher's Arête E5 6a * 2
155 Finale Groove HVS 4c *** 704
156 Rif Raf HVS 5a/5b 5
157 'B' Line VS 5a ** 124
158 Buzz Light Year HVS 5a ** 106
159 Sweet SA VS 5a ** 121
160 All Guns Blazing E3 6a * 11
161 Sea Lion HVS 5a * 4
162 The Heidelberg Creature VS 4c ** 385
163 Children of the Sun E2 5b ** 16
164 The Tool E2 5b ** 84
165 The Tool (Bad Workman Finish) E3 5b 4
166 Man or Muppet E2 5c * 2
167 Bert and Ernie E2 5b ** 9
168 Promotion to Glory
-
E3 6a * 1
169 Conan the Vegetarian E3 5b  
170 Tatra Direct E2 5c 9
171 Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall) VS 5a *** 244
172 Tatra (reclimbed after 2014 rockfall) E1 5b ** 77
173 Vysoke Tatry (Tatra Direct - new top pitch) E2 5b/c ** 7
174 Teenage Wasteland E4 6a  
175 Marmolata Arête E4 6a * 4
176 Marmolata Buttress E3 5c ** 39
177 Marmolata Combination E1 5b * 32
178 Marmolata E2 5c 10
  Lightning Wall Area
180 Director's Groove HVS 5a * 125
181 Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds Combination VS 4c 11
182 Freddy E2 5c 4
183 Ashes and Diamonds
-
E1 5b 35
184 Windy City
-
E1 5a 13
185 Canned Heat
-
E1 5b 8
186 Lightning Wall HVS 5a *** 654
187 Lightning Wall Direct HVS 5b *** 11
188 Melancholy Lane E3 5c  
189 Elysium E1 5b *** 426
190 The Adventures of Portland Bill E2 5b ** 44
191 Brisingamen E5 6b * 2
192 Singing Winds E4 6a ** 29
193 Dune Dust E4 6a ** 27
194 Thunder Groove HVS 5b ** 156
195 Echoes from the Dead E3 5c  
196 Gypsy E2 5b *** 225
197 Strongbow E1 5b ** 130
198 Vortices E2 5c ** 44
199 The Mace E5 6b *  
200 Aquarius E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
201 Acapulco E4 6a ** 15
202 Strophanthin HVS 5a 25
203 The Planet E3 5c ** 17
204 White Dwarf E2 5c * 8
205 Ximenes E2 5c *** 81
206 Tiger Moth
-
E1 5b 5
207 Death's Head Hawk Moth E3 6a  
208 The Mutiny
-
E1 5b 1
209 Skulduggery
-
E5 6b  
210 Gimcrack VS 4b * 45
211 Quasimodo
-
HVS 5a 5
212 Leave It to the Birds
-
E3 5c 1
213 Fury 161
-
E1 5b 1
214 Lone
-
E4 5c  
215 The Navajo Wars E5 6a **  
216 Iron Pony E4 6a  
217 West of the Pecos
-
E3 5c  
218 Apache E3 5c  
219 Victoria E1 5a 3
220 Fallen from Grace E4 6b  
221 Blood, Sugar, Sex and Magic
-
E4 6a  
  Old Faithful Area
223 Agincourt
-
E2 5c 1
224 The Curse of Testosterone
-
E3 5c 1
225 Innuendo Factory E4 6a  
226 Corollary
-
E3 5b 1
227 Winter's Tale
-
E2 5b 1
228 Merlin E1 5b * 2
229 October Lady E1 5b ** 43
230 Ice Queen E5 6a ** 3
231 Sun King E4 6a * 6
232 Jasper HVS 4c * 78
233 Via Concordia E2 5b * 8
234 Nunentity HVS 5a * 8
235 Omdurman
-
E3 6a  
236 Big Bertha E2 5c * 13
237 Old Faithful VS 4c ** 280
238 Glandasse Revant E2 5b 2
239 Nineteen to the Dozen
-
HVS 5a * 9
240 Baker's Dozen VS 4c * 38
241 Black Crack HVS 5a * 12
242 Argo HVS 5a ** 45
243 The Ancient Mariner E2 5b ** 7
244 The Golden Fleece HVS 5a ** 80
245 Moose's Tooth E3 6a ** 9
246 Decay 9
-
E5 6b  
247 Dragon's Teeth E3 5c  
248 Symplegades E2 5b  
  Behemoth Area
250 Behemoth HVS 5a *** 162
251 Soul Sacrifice E3 5b *** 64
252 On Life's Edge E4 6a *  
253 White Horse E2 5b * 13
254 Kingdom Come E6 6b **  
255 Down in Ruckly Ruckly Land
-
E4 6a  
256 Dublin Packet HVS 5b ** 10
257 Anger is an Energy E5 6b *  
258 Poseidon
-
HVS 5a 5
259 Hermes
-
VS 4c 6
260 Sparky E5 6b *  
261 Let the Punka Burn E3 6a * 2
262 Too Precious E6 6b **  
263 Sinking Feeling
-
E5 6a  
264 Laurence
-
E2 5b * 3
265 Prudence HVS 5b ** 42
266 Ganymede E1 5b ** 16
  Airy Legs Area
268 In the Heat of the Night E1 5c * 1
269 Callisto HVS 5b * 7
270 Insectitude VS 4c * 10
271 Jung Spice
-
HVS 5a  
272 Airy Legs VS 4c ** 88
273 Insecticide E2 5b ** 7
274 Nutcracker Exit II HVS 4c ** 55
275 Warriors E1 5b * 21
276 Luttes
-
E2 5b  
277 War HVS 5b * 27
278 Ordinary World
-
E3 6a *  
279 Purple Heart E3 5c 2
280 The Nutcracker Traverse
-
S 18
281 Intersection S * 72
282 Voluptes
-
E3 6a  
283 Subnutcracker
-
HS 4b 20
284 The Long Goodbye HVS 4c ** 32
285 Seventh Wave VS 5a * 26
286 Second Sight VS 5a * 20
287 Loony on the Loose
-
E2 5c 1
  The Traverse Adventures of David Coley
289 The Boulder Ruckle Girdle Traverse E1  
290 Wonderland E1 5c 2
291 The Frog Footman E1 5b ** 3
292 The White Rabbit VS 4b ** 4
293 The Mad Hatter VS 4c * 4
294 The Red Queen HVS 4b * 3
295 Alice (Flying Fish to Buccaneer link-up) E2 5b * 2
296 The Cheshire Cat HVS 4c ** 4
297 The Caterpillar E2 5b ** 1
298 The Mock Turtle E2 5b ** 2

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