Climbs 220
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

View from the bottom - Boulder Ruckle, looking west © ChrisBrooke

Crag features

A good selection of routes in the VS to HVS range as well as a few harder challenges. Committing abseil approach and difficult escape typical of the Ruckle. Mostly non-tidal.

Approach notes

No climbing on parts of the crag, 1 Mar-31 Jul due to nesting birds.

Walk down the tarmac road from Durlston Car Park then head west (right - looking out) along the coast path. A cliff-top track runs below this and the abseil stakes are found near this lower path. The first area arrived at takes a 10 minute walk and the furthest area takes 20 minutes. 14 fence posts after the first stone wall passed on the Coast Path, a small path leads straight down to a large tubular

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage (2015)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
There is a combo for almost every route in the ruckle, Please put them in the route notes, as I feel there is no need to clutter the page with hundreds of link ups. Thank you Marti
Marti999 - 01/Mar/15
in all likelyhood t-shirt weather
uncontrollable - 08/Dec/12
does anyone know what, this place is like in January?
konna - 14/Jan/12
Do NOT rely on Larus as an escape route, or a route for that matter. Easiest solid route in Boulder Ruckle Central is now E1. The rockfall appears to extend close to the break and belay half way up. May affect routes immediately left of Larus (only in CC guide) as well.
IainAM - 31/Aug/09
I meant Larus HS
lmarenzi - 07/May/08
Abbed in off Marmolata Buttress on May 2nd. Either my eyesight is going or what used to be Jason HS is now mostly part of the boulders in the sea.
lmarenzi - 05/May/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Wonderland E1 5c 2
  Lean Machine Wall
3 Paradise Street S 4b * 4
4 The Roaring Forties
-
E2 5b 3
5 Sirius E3 5b * 22
6 Wild at Heart E4 6a 1
7 Punks in Power E5 6b ** 3
8 The Lean Machine E5 6a *** 59
9 Surge Control E5 6b *** 5
10 The Roaring Boys E6 6b *  
11 Apex Corner E1 5a, 4c 7
12 Charge of the Wild Horsemen E1 5b 2
13 Charge of the Light Brigade E1 5b 3
14 High Noon
-
E2 5b 2
15 Primrose Hill
-
E1 5a 2
16 Jugs in Space
-
E4 6a 1
  Ocean Boulevard Wall
18 Le Jaune Mechanique E4 5c * 3
19 Barracuda E4 5c *** 49
20 Tuna Lick E5 6a *  
21 Ocean Boulevard E3 5b *** 294
22 Mother Africa E4 6a *** 61
23 The Great Hunter House Milk Robbery E5 6a * 6
24 Wall of the Worlds E5 6a *** 69
25 The Last Hurrah of the Golden Horde E3 5c 8
26 The Ramp S 4a 27
27 The White Rabbit VS ** 4
28 The Mad Hatter VS 4c * 4
29 Indian Pacific E5 6a **  
30 The First Och Aye of the Tartan Army E3 5b * 2
31 Screaming Blue Messiah E3 6a  
32 Queen of Carp E5 6b  
33 Old Ghosts (Scare Me Most)
-
E3 6a 2
34 Jonah VS 4b 13
35 Road to Ruin
-
E2 5b 1
36 In Triplicate
-
HVS 5b 1
37 Due Care and Attention HS 4a 24
38 Displacement Activity
-
E1 5b 3
39 Higgins VS 4c 14
40 Jericho Groove HS 4b * 209
  Aventura Area
42 Cold Comfort
-
HVS 4c 1
43 Cold Comfort Variation VS 4b * 1
44 Vicissitude
-
VS 4c 5
45 Black Sunshine HVS 4c ** 202
46 Dark Side of the Sun E1 5b ** 50
47 Springbok Route VS 4c 1
48 Nassty Spider E2 5c * 25
49 Aventura HVS 4c ** 296
50 Judgement Day E2 5c 4
51 Death is a Gift HVS 5a 14
52 Bottomless Buttress HS 4b * 364
53 The Red Queen HVS 4b * 3
54 The Dead Can't Judge HVS 4c * 4
55 Andycap HVS 4b, 4c 2
56 Tim
-
HS 9
57 Silhouette Arete VS 4c ** 275
58 The Fin E5 6a ** 2
59 Cima Petite E4 6a ** 2
60 Luke
-
E1 5b 2
61 Rhino HVS 4c,4c 7
62 Tomorrow's Grief
-
VS 4c 34
63 Fetish
-
HVS 5a 3
64 Midge
-
E2 5b 2
65 The Corpse
-
E1 5a 1
66 Moonraker
-
VS 5a 5
  Relax and Swing Area
68 Sun Streets E2 5b * 19
69 Snowdrop E1 5b * 32
70 St. Elmo's Firé E3 5c ** 12
71 Thunderball E1 5b *** 138
72 Jo HVS 5a *** 246
73 Thor HVS 5b * 15
74 Relax and Swing E5 6a *** 3
75 Sardine Special E5 6b *  
76 Jug Index E4 6b *  
77 Future Primitive E4 6b *  
78 Dogwatch E3 5c 2
79 Coral Slabs
-
E3 5c 2
80 Mongoose
-
E3 5b 2
81 Rainbow
-
VS 4b 5
  The Grim Reaper Area
83 Asp VS 4c ** 28
84 Enos
-
VS 4c 4
85 Mr Punch E1 4c/5a * 3
86 Cloud Nine
-
HVS * 5
87 Hard Day's Night
-
HVS 4c 4
88 Prayers for Rain E3 5c * 5
89 The Grim Reaper E1 5a * 31
90 Alas, Poor Yorick E4 6a *  
91 Scythe E3 5b * 3
92 Talking to the Angel
-
E4 6a 1
93 Razor Blade Smile E5 6c *  
94 Blow the House Down (rockfall 2014) E3 5c * 1
95 Gold Fever E4 5c *  
  Buccaneer Area
97 Ilium
-
E1 5b 2
98 Larus (pre 2008 Rockfall) E1 5b 18
99 Larus (reclimbed after 2008 rockfall) E1 5b 5
100 Joe 90 E5 6a ** 8
101 Flying Finish E2 5b * 18
102 Alice (flying fish to Buccaneer link up) E2 5b * 2
103 Billy Pigg E1 5b ** 108
104 Rattler E1 5b * 32
105 Fish Supper E3 5c * 13
106 Sinbad E1 5b ** 101
107 Mickey Mouse E3 6a *** 44
108 Buccaneer E2 5b *** 144
109 Ishmael
-
E3 5b 5
110 Cutlass E5 6a *  
111 Bosun's Wall HVS 5a * 21
112 Coxwain's Route
-
VS 4c 2
113 Sheerline
-
VS 4c 10
114 Kittiwake
-
VS 4b 5
115 Diagonal HVS 5a,4c 21
116 High Tide and Green Grass VS 5a 18
117 No Diagonal HVS 5a * 2
118 Dandruff HVS 4c  
119 Smokestack Lightening E1 5b 3
  Marmolata Area
121 Koo-Koo E2 5c * 7
122 RIP HVS 4c 12
123 Wide Awake in America E6 6b ** 2
124 Sweet and Sour
-
VS 4c 7
125 Boatpusher's Arete E5 6a * 1
126 Finale Groove HVS 4c *** 667
127 The Cheshire Cat HVS 4c ** 3
128 Rif Raf HVS 5a/5b 4
129 'B' Line VS 5a ** 85
130 Buzz Lightyear HVS 5a ** 84
131 Sweet SA VS 5a ** 109
132 Sea Lion HVS 5b, 4b * 4
133 All Guns Blazing E3 6a * 9
134 The Heidelberg Creature VS 4c ** 336
135 The Caterpillar E2 5b ** 1
136 Children of the Sun E2 5b ** 15
137 The Tool E2 5b ** 80
138 The Tool ( Bad workmen Finish) E3 5b 2
139 Man or Muppet E2 5c * 2
140 Bert and Ernie E2 5b ** 6
141 Promotion to Glory
-
E3 6a * 1
142 Tatra Direct E2 5c 9
143 Vysoke Tatry (Tatra Direct - new top pitch) E2 5b/c ** 7
144 Tatra (before 2014 rockfall) VS 5a *** 251
145 Tatra (after 2014 rockfall) E1 5b ** 54
146 Marmolata Arete E4 6a * 4
147 Marmolata Buttress E3 5c ** 37
148 Marmolata Combination E1 5b * 30
149 Marmolata E2 5c 9
150 The Mock Turtle E2 5b ** 2
  Lightning Wall Area
152 Director's Groove HVS 5a * 113
153 Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds combo VS 4c 8
154 Freddy E2 5c 4
155 Ashes and Diamonds
-
E1 5b 34
156 Windy City
-
E1 5a 12
157 Canned Heat
-
E1 5b 8
158 Lightning Wall HVS 5a *** 578
159 Lightning Wall Direct HVS 5a/b *** 12
160 Elysium E1 5b *** 398
161 The Adventures of Portland Bill E2 5b ** 37
162 Brisingamen E5 6b * 2
163 Singing Winds E4 6a ** 21
164 Dune Dust E4 6a ** 22
165 Thunder Groove HVS 5b ** 141
166 Gypsy E2 5b *** 209
167 Strongbow E1 5b ** 111
168 Vortices E2 5c ** 37
169 The Mace E5 6b *  
170 Acapulco E4 6a ** 13
171 Strophanthin HVS 5a 21
172 The Planet E3 5c ** 15
173 White Dwarf E2 5c * 8
174 Ximenes E2 5c *** 94
175 Tiger Moth E1 5b 5
176 The Mutiny
-
E1 5b 1
177 Gimcrack VS 4b * 42
178 Quasimodo HVS 5a 3
179 Leave It to the Birds
-
E3 5c 1
180 Fury 161
-
E1 5b 1
181 Victoria VS 4c/5a 3
182 Winters Tale E3 5c 1
  Old Faithful Area
184 October Lady E1 5b ** 42
185 Ice Queen E5 6a ** 1
186 Sun King E4 6a * 6
187 Jasper HVS 4c * 67
188 Nunentity HVS 5a 7
189 Via Concordia E2 5b * 8
190 Big Bertha E2 5c * 13
191 Old Faithful VS 4c ** 245
192 Nineteen to the Dozen HVS 5a * 9
193 Baker's Dozen VS 4c * 32
194 Black Crack HVS 5a * 12
195 Argo HVS 5a ** 40
196 The Ancient Mariner E2 5b ** 5
197 The Golden Fleece HVS 5a ** 70
198 Moose's Tooth E3 6a ** 9
  Behemoth Area
200 Behemoth HVS 5a *** 181
201 Soul Sacrifice E3 5b *** 71
202 On Life's Edge E4 6a *  
203 Kingdom Come E6 6b **  
204 White Horse E2 5b * 11
205 Dublin Packet HVS 5b ** 9
206 Anger is an Energy E5 6b *  
207 Poseidon HVS 4a,5a 4
208 Hermes
-
VS 4c 6
209 Sparky E5 6b *  
210 Let the Punka Burn E3 6a * 2
211 Too Precious E6 6b **  
212 Laurence
-
E2 5b * 2
213 Prudence HVS 5b ** 35
214 Ganymede E1 5b ** 15
  Airy Legs Area
216 In the Heat of the Night E1 5c * 1
217 Callisto HVS 5b * 7
218 Insectitude VS 4c * 6
219 Airy Legs VS 4c ** 74
220 Nutcracker Exit 2 HVS 4c ** 46
221 Insecticide E2 5b ** 5
222 Warriors E1 5b * 18
223 War HVS 5b * 25
224 Intersection S * 54
225 The Long Goodbye HVS 4c ** 30
226 Seventh Wave VS 5a * 20
227 Second Sight VS 5a * 19
228 Loony on the Loose
-
E2 5c 1
229 The Boulder Ruckle Girdle Traverse E1  

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