Climbs 220
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 22m a.s.l
Faces S

View from the bottom - Boulder Ruckle, looking west © ChrisBrooke

Crag features

A good selection of routes in the VS to HVS range as well as a few harder challenges. Committing abseil approach and difficult escape typical of the Ruckle. Mostly non-tidal.

Approach notes

No climbing on parts of the crag, 1 Mar-31 Jul due to nesting birds.

Walk down the tarmac road from Durlston Car Park then head west (right - looking out) along the coast path. A cliff-top track runs below this and the abseil stakes are found near this lower path. The first area arrived at takes a 10 minute walk and the furthest area takes 20 minutes. 14 fence posts after the first stone wall passed on the Coast Path, a small path leads straight down to a large tubular

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UKs most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfaxs award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UKs most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage (2015)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
There is a combo for almost every route in the ruckle, Please put them in the route notes, as I feel there is no need to clutter the page with hundreds of link ups. Thank you Marti
Marti999 - 01/Mar/15
in all likelyhood t-shirt weather
uncontrollable - 08/Dec/12
does anyone know what, this place is like in January?
konna - 14/Jan/12
Do NOT rely on Larus as an escape route, or a route for that matter. Easiest solid route in Boulder Ruckle Central is now E1. The rockfall appears to extend close to the break and belay half way up. May affect routes immediately left of Larus (only in CC guide) as well.
IainAM - 31/Aug/09
I meant Larus HS
lmarenzi - 07/May/08
Abbed in off Marmolata Buttress on May 2nd. Either my eyesight is going or what used to be Jason HS is now mostly part of the boulders in the sea.
lmarenzi - 05/May/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1WonderlandE1 5c 2
 Lean Machine Wall 
3Paradise StreetS 4b *4
4The Roaring Forties
E2 5b 3
5SiriusE3 5b *26
6Wild at HeartE4 6a 1
7Punks in PowerE5 6b **3
8The Lean MachineE5 6a ***55
9Surge ControlE5 6b ***5
10The Roaring BoysE6 6b * 
11Apex CornerE1 5a, 4c 7
12Charge of the Wild HorsemenE1 5b 2
13Charge of the Light BrigadeE1 5b 3
14High Noon
E2 5b 2
15Primrose Hill
E1 5a 2
16Jugs in Space
E4 6a 1
 Ocean Boulevard Wall 
18Le Jaune MechaniqueE4 5c *3
19BarracudaE4 5c ***55
20Tuna LickE5 6a * 
21Ocean BoulevardE3 5b ***291
22Mother AfricaE4 6a ***72
23The Great Hunter House Milk RobberyE5 6a *5
24Wall of the WorldsE5 6a ***87
25The Last Hurrah of the Golden HordeE3 5c 8
26The RampS 4a 27
27The White RabbitVS **3
28The Mad HatterVS 4c *3
29Indian PacificE5 6a ** 
30The First Och Aye of the Tartan ArmyE3 5b *2
31Screaming Blue MessiahE3 6a  
32Queen of CarpE5 6b  
33Old Ghosts (Scare Me Most)
E3 6a 2
34JonahVS 4b 13
35Road to Ruin
E2 5b 1
36In Triplicate
HVS 5b 1
37Due Care and AttentionHS 4a 23
38Displacement Activity
E1 5b 3
39HigginsVS 4c 14
40Jericho GrooveHS 4b *200
 Aventura Area 
42Cold Comfort
HVS 4c 1
43Cold Comfort VariationVS 4b *1
VS 4c 5
45Black SunshineHVS 4c **200
46Dark Side of the SunE1 5b **46
47Springbok RouteVS 4c 1
48Nassty SpiderE2 5c *25
49AventuraHVS 4c **289
50Judgement DayE2 5c 4
51Death is a GiftHVS 5a 14
52Bottomless ButtressHS 4b *353
53The Red QueenHVS 4b *3
54The Dead Can't JudgeHVS 4c *4
55AndycapHVS 4b, 4c 2
HS 9
57Silhouette AreteVS 4c **269
58The FinE5 6a **2
59Cima PetiteE4 6a **2
E1 5b 2
61RhinoHVS 4c,4c 7
62Tomorrow's Grief
VS 4c 33
HVS 5a 3
E2 5b 2
65The Corpse
E1 5a 1
VS 5a 5
 Relax and Swing Area 
68Sun StreetsE2 5b *19
69SnowdropE1 5b *31
70St. Elmo's FiréE3 5c **12
71ThunderballE1 5b ***169
72JoHVS 5a ***241
73ThorHVS 5b *16
74Relax and SwingE5 6a ***3
75Sardine SpecialE5 6b * 
76Jug IndexE4 6b * 
77Future PrimitiveE4 6b * 
78DogwatchE3 5c 2
79Coral Slabs
E3 5c 2
E3 5b 2
VS 4b 5
 The Grim Reaper Area 
83AspVS 4c **27
VS 4c 4
85Mr PunchE1 4c/5a *2
86Cloud Nine
HVS *5
87Hard Day's Night
HVS 4c 4
88Prayers for RainE3 5c *5
89The Grim ReaperE1 5a *32
90Alas, Poor YorickE4 6a * 
91ScytheE3 5b *3
92Talking to the Angel
E4 6a 1
93Razor Blade SmileE5 6c * 
94Blow the House Down (rockfall 2014)E3 5c *1
95Gold FeverE4 5c * 
 Buccaneer Area 
E1 5b 2
98Larus (pre 2008 Rockfall)E1 5b 18
99Larus (reclimbed after 2008 rockfall)E1 5b 4
100Joe 90E5 6a **9
101Flying FinishE2 5b *18
102Alice (flying fish to Buccaneer link up)E2 5b *2
103Billy PiggE1 5b **114
104RattlerE1 5b *31
105Fish SupperE3 5c *13
106SinbadE1 5b **96
107Mickey MouseE3 6a ***41
108BuccaneerE2 5b ***141
E3 5b 4
110CutlassE5 6a * 
111Bosun's WallHVS 5a *21
112Coxwain's Route
VS 4c 2
VS 4c 10
VS 4b 5
115DiagonalHVS 5a,4c 20
116High Tide and Green GrassVS 5a 18
117No DiagonalHVS 5a *2
118DandruffHVS 4c  
119Smokestack LighteningE1 5b 3
 Marmolata Area 
121Koo-KooE2 5c *7
122RIPHVS 4c 13
123Wide Awake in AmericaE6 6b **1
124Sweet and Sour
VS 4c 7
125Boatpusher's AreteE5 6a *1
126Finale GrooveHVS 4c ***640
127The Cheshire CatHVS 4c **3
128Rif RafHVS 5a/5b 4
129'B' LineVS 5a **81
130Buzz LightyearHVS 5a **81
131Sweet SAVS 5a **115
132Sea LionHVS 5b, 4b *4
133All Guns BlazingE3 6a *9
134The Heidelberg CreatureVS 4c **322
135The CaterpillarE2 5b **1
136Children of the SunE2 5b **14
137The ToolE2 5b **80
138The Tool ( Bad workmen Finish)E3 5b 2
139Man or MuppetE2 5c *2
140Bert and ErnieE2 5b **7
141Promotion to Glory
E3 6a *1
142Tatra DirectE2 5c 9
143Vysoke Tatry (Tatra Direct - new top pitch)E2 5b/c **7
144Tatra (before 2014 rockfall)VS 5a ***248
145Tatra (after 2014 rockfall)E1 5b **45
146Marmolata AreteE4 6a *4
147Marmolata ButtressE3 5c **35
148Marmolata CombinationE1 5b *31
149MarmolataE2 5c 9
150The Mock TurtleE2 5b **2
 Lightning Wall Area 
152Director's GrooveHVS 5a *109
153Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds comboVS 4c 8
154FreddyE2 5c 4
155Ashes and Diamonds
E1 5b 32
156Windy City
E1 5a 12
157Canned Heat
E1 5b 8
158Lightning WallHVS 5a ***558
159Lightning Wall DirectHVS 5a/b ***10
160ElysiumE1 5b ***389
161The Adventures of Portland BillE2 5b **40
162BrisingamenE5 6b *2
163Singing WindsE4 6a **21
164Dune DustE4 6a **21
165Thunder GrooveHVS 5b **138
166GypsyE2 5b ***205
167StrongbowE1 5b **118
168VorticesE2 5c **37
169The MaceE5 6b * 
170AcapulcoE4 6a **13
171StrophanthinHVS 5a 21
172The PlanetE3 5c **15
173White DwarfE2 5c *8
174XimenesE2 5c ***89
175Tiger MothE1 5b 5
176The Mutiny
E1 5b 1
177GimcrackVS 4b *45
178QuasimodoHVS 5a 3
179Leave It to the Birds
E3 5c 1
180Fury 161
E1 5b 1
181VictoriaVS 4c/5a 3
182Winters TaleE3 5c 1
 Old Faithful Area 
184October LadyE1 5b **42
185Ice QueenE5 6a **1
186Sun KingE4 6a *6
187JasperHVS 4c *70
188NunentityHVS 5a 7
189Via ConcordiaE2 5b *8
190Big BerthaE2 5c *13
191Old FaithfulVS 4c **266
192Nineteen to the DozenHVS 5a *9
193Baker's DozenVS 4c *33
194Black CrackHVS 5a *12
195ArgoHVS 5a **43
196The Ancient MarinerE2 5b **5
197The Golden FleeceHVS 5a **80
198Moose's ToothE3 6a **9
 Behemoth Area 
200BehemothHVS 5a ***176
201Soul SacrificeE3 5b ***68
202On Life's EdgeE4 6a * 
203Kingdom ComeE6 6b ** 
204White HorseE2 5b *11
205Dublin PacketHVS 5b **9
206Anger is an EnergyE5 6b * 
207PoseidonHVS 4a,5a 4
VS 4c 6
209SparkyE5 6b * 
210Let the Punka BurnE3 6a *2
211Too PreciousE6 6b ** 
E2 5b *2
213PrudenceHVS 5b **41
214GanymedeE1 5b **15
 Airy Legs Area 
216In the Heat of the NightE1 5c *1
217CallistoHVS 5b *7
218InsectitudeVS 4c *6
219Airy LegsVS 4c **68
220Nutcracker Exit 2HVS 4c **43
221InsecticideE2 5b **5
222WarriorsE1 5b *18
223WarHVS 5b *25
224IntersectionS *52
225The Long GoodbyeHVS 4c **29
226Seventh WaveVS 5a *20
227Second SightVS 5a *20
228Loony on the Loose
E2 5c 1
229The Boulder Ruckle Girdle TraverseE1  

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