Climbs 10
Rocktype Slate

Faces N

Chloe inching her way © kevlad

Approach notes

No access: SSSI.

Guidebooks

Please please do not try and climb in this quarry. It's not just English Nature being overprotective. The ancient volcanic rocks exposed there were responsible for changing science's view of when multicellular life first existed on earth! They really are that special.
cantoris - 28/Oct/10
"I note that the UK Climbing website lists Pocketgate Quarry at Charnwood Forest Golf Club as a site for climbing. Please note that this site lies within a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) which is managed by Natural England. Please visit their website at http://www.english-nature.org.uk/special/sssi/ and in particular the section on enforcement. The rocks and quarries at the Course of are particular interest to geologists internationally and therefore we do not want them damaged in any way. Charnwood Forest Golf Club have prohibited Rock Climbing anywhere within its boundaries and will take any actions it feels necessary to enforce this. I would ask and thank you to remove any references to the climbs from your website. Please do not hesitate to contact me if you need any further information 01509 890259 Philip Field Club Secretary" from email sent to moderator
Paul Leader - 10/Mar/08
checked this out today 09/02/08, looks good but after wandering a bit too close to the adjacent golf course was given marching orders by golf club secretary. he claimed that "international treasures" are found within this area. ( fossils )he also threatened to call police. Needs checking out, or just stay away from golf course!
kevlad - 09/Feb/08
Went to climb with a mate but the manager of the golf club came over and started telling us we couldn't be there. Looked like good climbing aswell, although I only had toprope gear with me so only a couple of routes would have been do-able. Gonna check out whether we can climb here.
mlbower - 10/Nov/07
This crag is much cleaner than it appears in the photo above. There is not really very much actual growth on the routes, just a fair bit of leaf matter that's fallen down from above and can be easily swept off.
crossdressingrodney - 30/Sep/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Lichen Buttress D 1
2 The Wall Route VD ** 8
3 Slip and Slide VS 4c ** 5
4 Central Crack VS 5a *** 8
5 Rightside Route HS 4a ** 5
6 Ordinary Route D 5
7 Girdle Traverse VS 4c * 1
8 The Green Party HVS 5a 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Leader