Climbs 98
Rocktype Granite

Faces S

Southern Man on the heinous Helman offwidth © Tom Last

Crag features

Helman Tor offers a wonderful setting and excellent selection of boulder problems across the grade range and also a couple of mid grade routes all on fantastic rough friction filled granite.

There are a wide varity of problems of all types including aretes slabs and roofs with a wide variety of techniques required and not a little commitment on some of the problems. The lovely soft grassy landings on almost all of the problems do help to compensate for this!

The short route Bloody Helman is well worth a visit as is the excellent arete on the lower tier (p22). Other problems of note are 4a Crack, Battle of the Bulge and No Grieving as well as almost all the problems on the lower tier.

Approach notes

The crag is easily reached from the main A30. Follow this to the junction with the A391 signposted to the Eden Project. Once you have taken this exit follow the signs to Bugle. After around 500m take the first left hand turn you come to. Within 100m or so turn right sign post to Luxuluyan. Follow this road until a left turn sign posted Helman Tor. Continue along this road for just over 1km until you see a wooden signpost on the left side of the road and a turning on the right through two granite posts. Follow this track to the car park on the left.

An excellent bouldering venue, about 40 problems, V0-V6 and a few higher climbs. Fantastic views. Small car park at end of lane and few minutes walk to boulders.
Gus Horsley - 27/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Cave Area
2 The Arete V1 5b * 7
3 The Face V1 5a 28
4 The Snatch V1 5c 12
5 Gibbons Traverse V1 1
6 Cave Traverse V8 6c 3
7 British East Africa V7 6c *** 6
8 Ice Cream Soldiers V6 6b *** 6
9 Beam Traverse V2 5b * 5
10 Moves Me V8 6c 1
11 Problem 41 V1 5c 1
12 The Ultimate Eccentricity V1  
  Battle of the Bulge Area
14 Battle of the Bulge (p13) V2 6a ** 19
15 Crystal Ball V3 6a/b 2
16 4a Crack V0 4a ** 29
17 Face Left of Crack V2 2
18 Bodmin Queen V9 ** 1
19 The Cracked Egg V1 5c 9
20 Crackin' Bulge * V5+ 1
  Summit Area
22 End face sitter V3 5c ** 3
23 Chickenhead Bloc V2 5c 6
24 Problem 12 (Face Direct) V5 6c+ * 12
25 problem 11 (Inside Corner) V0- 4a 25
26 Problem 10 (Left arete) VB 5a * 36
27 Problem 9 (Thin Crack) V0 5b ** 56
28 Problem 8 (Corner climb) V0+ 4c * 46
29 Problem 7.5 (Left wall direct) V3 6b 10
30 Problem 7 (Left Wall) V0 5b * 18
31 Problem 6 (The Arete) V3 6b * 15
32 problem 5 (Face crack) V2 6a 52
33 Problem 4 (The Crack) V0- 3c 59
34 Problem 3 (The Face) V1 5c 36
35 problem 2 (Corner Crack) VB 4a 54
36 No Grieving (p1) V3 6b ** 10
37 Pyramid Shaped Block VB 4b 4
38 The Face Right Side V0 5a 3
39 Upper Area girdle V1 5c 3
  Lower Area
41 Hells Angels E3 6a  
42 Bloody Helman E4 6a ** 10
43 Hell's Tooth E2 5c 24
44 The Saint's Way S 4b * 21
45 The Penintent Man S 10
46 Angel Delight VD 20
47 Angel Delight Variation Start HS 4c 2
48 Problem 25 (rounded nose) V1 5c 12
49 problem 24 (The Flakes) V0 5a * 56
50 Problem 23 (Wall on crystals) V2 6a 9
51 Problem 22 (The Arete Left) V2 6b ** 26
52 Left Arete Sitter V6 6b *** 1
53 Problem 21 (The Arete right) V0 6a 41
54 problem 20 (The wall) V0 5b 42
55 Problem 19 (The Flake) V0 5a * 53
56 Flake Sitter V6 *** 4
57 Corner Flake V0 4c * 22
58 problem 18 (The Ramp) VB 3c 59
59 The Ramp Variation VB 4a 22
60 Lower Area girdle V0 5c 1
61 Lower Lower Transverse V3 6a ** 1
  In the Gutter Boulder
63 In the Gutter (Problem 28) V2 5b 5
64 Out of the Shadows V3  
65 Carp Arete V1 1
66 Carp Arete sit start V1 5c  
67 A Little Koi V0- 1
68 The Chasm VB  
  South West Outcrop Area
70 Chloƫ's Tits V2 5c 7
71 Numb Numb Numb V3  
72 Triangulo Traverse V0-  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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