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Climbs 25
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 2118m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

Well protected sport, solid hardware, stupidly short approaches, slabby routes ranging from 5.6-5.11, 1-3 pitches. This area is known for a few bolted multipitch routes, moderate low angle slab at Cal Trans Wall, more difficult and interesting slab at Guntower Wall, and even some routes bolted just for the kids at CHP Wall!

Routes were set throughout Summer-Fall 2016

Approach notes

Approach times vary from 3-15 minutes depending on the area you wish to climb.

For multipitch 5.6, 5.9, and 10c take a hard left (almost back toward the hwy) at the brown gate and follow cairns. Keep your eyes peeled, a few "false trails" here and there that dead end.
Wind up to slab then go left at base of slab. Bolts are super hard to see because they're painted not shiny.

or directions to the multipitch routes - from the left end base of the Cal Trans wall, locate an electrical wire that has been secured as a fixed hand line (don't worry, it's not a "live wire"). Follow this up and continue on faint climber's trail that weaves through thick manzanita. The upper (multipitch) slabs should be obvious. The first route you'll come to is the 5.7. About 20 feet left of that is the 5.9.

After the hard left trail at the brown gate there are a few more trails that peel off the main trail, not super obvious so keep an eye out:

1) the trail parallels the crag for a bit and then approaches it perpendicular. when the main trail turns right and continues to parallel the crag go straight instead of right to find the trail to Cal Trans Wall. Goes up through bushes to the wall, veering slightly left toward the highway. Meets wall then routes appear as it continues left. fun low angle slab 5.5-8. You can actually link one of these routes to the multipitch routes above. Not sure which one though.

2) next left to Guntower Wall. This is a super short trail, connecting you to a crag that's easily visible from the main trail without any uphill hiking. 5.8-11 slab here. Routes start left of where the trail meets the crag and continue far to the climbers right as the trail scrambles uphill and finally dead ends.

3) Guntower Wall North (5.9-11): it's a stones throw right of the last route of guntower wall. You have to take another trail to get to it. So that would be your next left off the main trail. Diagonal left on a somewhat apparent sandy turnoff just after the path passes over a pipe for water runoff reinforced by a concrete wall. Through the woods between delineating logs as markers, then left uphill by a boulder stacked with a cairn. Pull yourself up a small boulder to continue uphill then pass through a few more bushes to the crag.

Narrower but taller wall than Guntower proper. Cool 60 meter route here (5.9) with fun sections. The leader will have to top belay their second then rap down to mussies from the route just right of it, then rap to the bottom from there. Locate the mussies of the adjacent route before you start.

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