Climbs 181
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 531m a.s.l
Faces N

Kate Bomphrey in the zone on Madre Salvaje 7c Desplomilandia © Mark Brightwell

Crag features

Set in the hills way above the confines of El Chorro, and peering out over the picturesque turquoise lakes of Ardales, are the excellent crags that are collectively referred to as Desplomilandia. There is a good deal of climbing here for more experienced climbers but nothing really for those operating in the 'green spot' grades. For climbers looking for harder routes though, there is plenty on offer and all of it on immaculate rock, and in a shady setting.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and follow a narrow winding road up hill out of the gorge for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn right and follow the road past lakes, a tunnel and a bar (The Kiosko). Cross a dam and pass through a village. A few kilometres further, after crossing another dam, follow signs for Antequera. The first crags appear on your right shortly after passing a couple of very large quarries. The first parking spot is at the base of a dirt track - park here for Sectors Buena Sombra and La Boda. For the other sectors, drive up the track to limited parking at a junction where another rough track on the right leads up to a col. This final section to the col is too rough to drive unless you are in a 4x4. Walk to the col from where paths lead to the various sectors. Sector Poza de la Mona is 3km further along the road towards Antequera see Sector notes on approach for parking and access details.

Guidebooks

El Chorro

A full colour guidebook dedicated the area around El Chorro in Andalusia in Spain. Covering the famous Gorge and all the fine crags near the village, plus many superb outlying areas. The book is in the modern Rockfax style with full colour photo topos, descriptions, symbols and maps, plus loads of excellent action shots.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 El Triangulo 
2Triángulo7a+ 2
3Estirpe pelleja7a *32
4Maligno catarro6c+ *52
5El nasty7c * 
6Aljamar7b **1
7Potencia triangular7a+ **16
8Reina mora7c **1
9Zeus kapotas8c  
10Mar de Ortigas8a ***38
11No toques a tu madre8a+ **1
12Madre salvaje7c ***68
13Oasis de cristal7c **1
14La conexión pelirroja8a **25
15Que tal mea tu padre?7b **75
16Mas que money7b+ *16
17De copas7b *8
18La copa7b *1
 El Cable 
20Maganto pro6a 29
21Maganto6a *40
22Aprendiz de maganto6a+ *60
23Good'un6a+ *45
24Puto cable5a *33
25Right of Puto Cable5b 3
26Mareo repentino7a **35
27La flaca6c+ **23
28La decepción7a+ **6
29Uretrofilo7a ***51
30Akira7b ***50
31Donde estan mis amigos7b+ **3
32Oleanna7b+ **1
33Project
-
?  
34Mamabi7b *2
 La Vida Misma 
36El angel flamenco7a *7
37El Paso7a+ **3
38Aro de santo6c+ **41
39Right of Aro de santo6c  
40Maritobi6a+ *79
41Right of Maritobi5a 10
42Aldebarán
-
5a **15
43Lucita6b+ 10
44Zuli6b 11
45Yocare
-
6b **32
46El Chaparrón6b **22
47Los manolos6c **21
48Wifi6a+ 36
49Facilonga6a 19
50Kuki6a 20
51Pingo5a *23
52Ostras pedrin5a *44
53Nato6b+ ***9
54Al loro con el Xato6c+ *29
55Manzanilla Madness7a **62
56Cheyenne7a+ **40
57Maquina pestosa7b+ ***20
58Ankana wanamio8a+ *2
59Al andalú6c ***80
60Sandokina8a+ ***9
61Sandokan7c **33
62ISIS7c+ *1
63Veo Veo7a+ 2
64Right of Veo Veo1  
65Romper Biceps6b ***17
66Si te gustael pique, pique6b **74
67Captain sardina6c **85
68Right of Capitan Sardina
-
6c **15
69Two right of Capitan Sardina6c 9
70Espurga perros6c **44
71Calidad alemana6b *37
72El emigrante7a+ *9
73El chupacabras7a+ **49
74Zulu Master7a+ *22
75Chica5c 10
76Paton *6a+ 3
 Tocho del acebuche 
78El acebuche
-
7c * 
79El anillo de los nibelungos
-
7a *2
80Papi xulo
-
6c *2
81Caxé
-
7a+ *1
82Pilla ratas
-
6c+ *1
83Rantamplán
-
6a 4
84Duplo
-
6a+ *2
 Buena Sombra 
86Dolomiti7a+ * 
87Fran sin natra7b **90
88Perseverancia8a **2
89Paquistani8a ***15
90Liron careto7c ***40
91Liron Careto Pitch 17a 93
92Escombros5c *147
93Autan5c *127
94Champion Leo8b 1
95Los zauden8a **2
96Los Zauden (to first lower off)7a **39
97Derribamitos8a **1
98A ella le gusta la gasolina8a ***2
99La golosa7c+ ***10
100Right of La Golosa6a *2
101El montepio de cretinos8a  
102Escalador parasito?  
103Las gallas7b+  
104El comite de sabios8a 1
105Judas7b **55
106El ruin de Roma7c **25
107Viejos y puretas7a **148
108Cosas caseras7a+ ***170
109Tarde pero perfecto6c+ **40
110Yogur de Coco6c ***284
111Comando escandilla6c+ ***55
112Hilando fino7b *15
113Buena sombre6b+ ***278
114Alobeitor6a+ ***291
115Sin mantenimiento6a ***360
116Provinciano marrano6c **81
117Debora cuerpos6b ***230
118Escacharra (Buena Sombra)6b 18
119El Amigo de Kunfu Panda6a **21
120Menasatrua6a+ **164
121El Sobeteo ajeno7a+ **9
122Efecto secundario6b+ **95
123Vaya pieza6b **107
124El Arco6b 2
125Las cosillas6c+ *21
126Las cosas de mike6b *36
127La pyme6b *24
 La Boda 
129Sarathoga6c+ *5
130Perisca6b *9
131Liposuccion7b *9
132Madera de higuera7a+ *5
133Puta parietaria7a+ **2
134El testigo7a+ *5
135Connecting People7b+ *4
136Project
-
?  
137Bichaca7c **7
138Bulging Orange8a+ *2
139Project
-
?  
140La fea5c *41
141Yolinda6b+ *38
142El novio6c+ **39
143Beshumiau7a+ **25
144La novia7a **45
145La suegra6c **17
146Diente de elefante6b **52
147El anillo perdido6a+ **59
148La marcha atras6c 5
 Poza de la Mona 
150Entre higos6a 19
151Laguna betiko6b *36
152Buen amigo6a *41
153Puerco Arana5c *54
154Tarantula6a 20
155Parecia tonta6a *80
156Esa bavaresa6b *55
157Flora6a *81
158Fauna6a+ *73
159Cerebro de broca6a *68
160Kira la bulti6a *56
161Siempre Juli6a+ 33
162Ras cubano6a *16
163Las gordas no dan resaca6b+ *10
164Brioche6a *6
165Puto Friend6b 4
166Deate de rollo6b+ 9
167Subete a la higuera6a+ *49
168Poda higuera6b *46
169Abrasiva6c *31
170Malva loca7a 8
171Feltan negro7b **18
172Arquitectura moderna7a+ *16
173Bee Bee6c+ ***95
174Pina disfruta7b+ **11
175Vas de guais7c ** 
176Leaning meany7c  
177Silicona Beach7b+  
178Excrementos7a+ ***11
179Hirakundia7c ***2
180Prosineski7c+ * 
181Lola7a+ 4
182Alacran7b+ *28
183Amor al arte7b **10
184Ambiente selecto6b+ 2
185Calorin5a 2
186Right of Manzanilla Madness7b **4
187Bee bee right *7a+ **1
188Enemigo Público *7a+ **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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