UKC

Climbs 194
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 531m a.s.l
Faces N

Kate Bomphrey in the zone on Madre Salvaje 7c Desplomilandia © Mark Brightwell

Crag features

Set in the hills way above the confines of El Chorro, and peering out over the picturesque turquoise lakes of Ardales, are the excellent crags that are collectively referred to as Desplomilandia. There is a good deal of climbing here for more experienced climbers but nothing really for those operating in the 'green spot' grades. For climbers looking for harder routes though, there is plenty on offer and all of it on immaculate rock, and in a shady setting.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and follow a narrow winding road up hill out of the gorge for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn right and follow the road past lakes, a tunnel and a bar (The Kiosko). Cross a dam and pass through a village. A few kilometres further, after crossing another dam, follow signs for Antequera. The first crags appear on your right shortly after passing a couple of very large quarries. The first parking spot is at the base of a dirt track - park here for Sectors Buena Sombra and La Boda. For the other sectors, drive up the track to limited parking at a junction where another rough track on the right leads up to a col. This final section to the col is too rough to drive unless you are in a 4x4. Walk to the col from where paths lead to the various sectors. Sector Poza de la Mona is 3km further along the road towards Antequera see Sector notes on approach for parking and access details.

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  El Triangulo
2 Triángulo 7a+ 3
3 Estirpe pelleja 7a * 37
4 Diazepan ? *** 1
5 Maligno catarro 6c+ * 59
6 El nasty 7c *  
7 Aljamar 7b ** 2
8 Potencia triangular 7a+ ** 20
9 Reina mora 7c ** 1
10 Zeus kapotas 8c  
11 Mar de Ortigas 8a *** 36
12 No toques a tu madre 8a+ ** 2
13 Madre salvaje 7c *** 71
14 Oasis de cristal 7c * 1
15 Enantium 8a  
16 La conexión pelirroja 8a ** 26
17 Palabras 7b * 1
18 Que tal mea tu padre? 7b ** 79
19 Mas que money 7b+ * 16
20 De copas 7b+ * 8
21 La copa 7b * 1
22 Calentamiento triangular 6b+ 1
23 Metadona 7c+  
  El Cable
25 Maganto pro 6a * 35
26 Maganto 6a * 48
27 Aprendiz de maganto 6a+ * 68
28 Good'un 6a+ * 52
29 The Orange Streak 6a+ *  
30 El cable rib 6a+ *  
31 Puto cable 5c * 37
32 Right of Puto Cable 5b * 6
33 Wall to Corner 6c 1
34 Pocketed Wall 6b+ *  
35 Mareo repentino 7a ** 41
36 La arqueta asesina 7a+ **  
37 La flaca 6c+ ** 24
38 La decepción 7a+ ** 7
39 Uretrofilo 7a *** 60
40 Akira 7b *** 55
41 Right of Akira ? ***  
42 Donde estan mis amigos 7b+ ** 3
43 Oleanna 7b+ *** 1
44 Aguila negra izda 7b+ ***  
45 Aguila negra 7a+ ** 2
46 Aguila negra right ? ***  
47 Short Line Left ? ***  
48 Short Line Right ? *** 1
49 Mamabi 7b * 2
50 Right of Mamabi ? ***  
51 Barby Marley 7b+ *  
52 Right out of Barby Marley ? ***  
  La Vida Misma
54 El angel left ? ***  
55 El angel flamenco 7a+ * 7
56 El Paso 7a+ * 3
57 Aro de santo 6c+ ** 43
58 Maritobi Left 6c+ *  
59 Maritobi 6a+ ** 94
60 Super Direct Line ? ***  
61 Direct Line 5c * 18
62 Aldebarán 5a * 21
63 Lucita 6b+ ** 11
64 Zuli 6b ** 12
Climb name Grade
65 Yocare 6b ** 38
66 El Chaparrón 6b+ *** 28
67 Los manolos 6c ** 25
68 Wifi 6a+ *** 54
69 Facilonga 6a *** 31
70 Paton 6a ** 10
71 Kuki 6a ** 30
72 Pingo 5a ** 28
73 Ostras pedrin 5b ** 56
74 Nato 6b+ ** 21
75 Al loro con el Xato 6c+ ** 34
76 Diagonal Break 6c+ * 1
77 Enemigo Público 7a+ ** 1
78 Manzanilla Madness 7a ** 73
79 Cheyenne 7a+ ** 47
80 The Pod 7a ** 2
81 Maquina pestosa 7b+ *** 33
82 Ankana wanamio 8a+ * 2
83 Al andalú 6c+ *** 99
84 Sandokina 8a+ *** 9
85 Sandokan 7c *** 35
86 ISIS 7c+ * 1
87 Veo Veo 7a+ ** 2
88 Veo Veo Right 6b *  
89 Romper Biceps 6b+ ** 23
90 Si te gustael pique, pique 6b *** 91
91 Captain sardina 6c *** 105
92 Sardinia Right 6c *** 17
93 Espurga Left 6c ** 9
94 Espurga perros 6c ** 53
95 Calidad alemana 6b ** 44
96 El emigrante 7a+ * 10
97 Diagonal Crack 7a+ *  
98 Mid-height Hole 7b ** 1
99 El chupacabras 7a ** 61
100 Zulu Master 7a+ ** 22
  Next Level
102 La chica 5c 10
103 La primera 6b+ ** 1
104 Los mercenarios 6b+ *  
105 Next Level 6c *  
106 Deseo carnal 7a *  
107 Hello Kitty 6c+ *  
108 El sardinuca 6c **  
109 No Pain, No Gain 6c+ **  
110 Limpieza hepatica 6c **  
111 Paralelo 36 6b+ **  
112 Una de espeto 6c+ **  
  Tocho del acebuche
114 El acebuche 7c **  
115 The White Tufa ?  
116 El anillo de los nibelungos 7a * 2
117 Papi xulo 6c * 2
118 Caxé 7a+ * 1
119 Pilla ratas 6c+ ** 1
120 Rantamplán 6a+ * 5
121 Duplo 6b * 3
  Buena Sombra
123 Dolomiti 7a+ *  
124 Fran sin natra 7b ** 98
125 Perseverancia 7c+ ** 2
126 Paquistani 8a *** 15
127 Liron careto 7c *** 43
128 Liron Careto Pitch 1 7a *** 108
Climb name Grade
129 Escombros 5c * 174
130 Autan 5c * 158
131 Champion Leo 8b+ ** 1
132 Los zauden 8a ** 3
133 Los Zauden (to first lower off) 7a+ ** 42
134 Derribamitos 8a ** 2
135 A ella le gusta la gasolina 7c+ *** 3
136 La golosa 7c+ *** 12
137 El montepio de cretinos 8a ***  
138 Escalador parasito 8a ***  
139 Las gallas 7b+ *** 1
140 El comite de sabios 7c+ *** 1
141 Judas 7b *** 66
142 El ruin de Roma 7c ** 30
143 Viejos y puretas 7a ** 168
144 Cosas caseras 7a *** 193
145 Tarde pero perfecto 6c+ ** 46
146 Yogur de Coco 6c *** 347
147 Comando escandilla 6c+ *** 65
148 Hilando fino 7b ** 16
149 Buena sombre 6b+ *** 343
150 Alobeitor 6a+ ** 334
151 Sin mantenimiento 6a *** 441
152 Provinciano marrano 6c ** 96
153 Debora cuerpos 6b *** 294
154 Escacharra (Buena Sombra) 6a ** 69
155 Menasatrua 6a+ ** 210
156 El Sobeteo ajeno 7a+ * 13
157 Efecto secundario 6b+ ** 109
158 Vaya pieza 6a+ ** 129
159 El Arco 6b 3
160 Las cosillas 6c+ * 28
161 Las cosas de mike 6b 50
162 La pyme 6b * 28
  La Boda
164 Sarathoga 6c+ * 5
165 Perisca 6b ** 11
166 Liposuccion 7b ** 9
167 Madera de higuera 7a+ * 5
168 Puta parietaria 7a+ ** 2
169 El testigo 7a+ ** 5
170 Connecting People 7b+ ** 5
171 Bichaca 7c ** 7
172 Bulging Orange 8a+ * 2
173 La fea 5c ** 49
174 Yolinda 6b+ ** 39
175 El novio 6c+ *** 43
176 Beshumiau 7a+ ** 24
177 La novia 7a ** 46
178 La suegra 6c ** 18
179 Diente de elefante 6b ** 58
180 El anillo perdido 6a+ ** 64
181 La marcha atras 6c 6
182 Tolomita ?  
183 Si perdona eres mi mejor amigo 6b *  
184 Ni mas ni menos 6b *  
185 Pita y rita 7a+ **  
186 Tara 6c+ **  
187 Fantasia 6c **  
188 La vida es bella 6c **  
189 Beam me up Scotty 6b *  
190 Teletransportacion 7c *  
191 Right of La Golosa 6a * 2
192 Bee Bee * 6c+ *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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