Climbs 181
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 531m a.s.l
Faces N

Kate Bomphrey in the zone on Madre Salvaje 7c Desplomilandia © Mark Brightwell

Crag features

Set in the hills way above the confines of El Chorro, and peering out over the picturesque turquoise lakes of Ardales, are the excellent crags that are collectively referred to as Desplomilandia. There is a good deal of climbing here for more experienced climbers but nothing really for those operating in the 'green spot' grades. For climbers looking for harder routes though, there is plenty on offer and all of it on immaculate rock, and in a shady setting.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and follow a narrow winding road up hill out of the gorge for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn right and follow the road past lakes, a tunnel and a bar (The Kiosko). Cross a dam and pass through a village. A few kilometres further, after crossing another dam, follow signs for Antequera. The first crags appear on your right shortly after passing a couple of very large quarries. The first parking spot is at the base of a dirt track - park here for Sectors Buena Sombra and La Boda. For the other sectors, drive up the track to limited parking at a junction where another rough track on the right leads up to a col. This final section to the col is too rough to drive unless you are in a 4x4. Walk to the col from where paths lead to the various sectors. Sector Poza de la Mona is 3km further along the road towards Antequera see Sector notes on approach for parking and access details.

Guidebooks

El Chorro

A full colour guidebook dedicated the area around El Chorro in Andalusia in Spain. Covering the famous Gorge and all the fine crags near the village, plus many superb outlying areas. The book is in the modern Rockfax style with full colour photo topos, descriptions, symbols and maps, plus loads of excellent action shots.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  El Triangulo
2 Triángulo 7a+ 2
3 Estirpe pelleja 7a * 30
4 Maligno catarro 6c+ * 51
5 El nasty 7c *  
6 Aljamar 7b ** 1
7 Potencia triangular 7a+ ** 14
8 Reina mora 7c ** 1
9 Zeus kapotas 8c  
10 Mar de Ortigas 8a *** 31
11 No toques a tu madre 8a+ ** 1
12 Madre salvaje 7c *** 59
13 Oasis de cristal 7c ** 1
14 La conexión pelirroja 8a ** 23
15 Que tal mea tu padre? 7b ** 71
16 Mas que money 7b+ * 16
17 De copas 7b * 8
18 La copa 7b * 1
  El Cable
20 Maganto pro 6a 29
21 Maganto 6a * 39
22 Aprendiz de maganto 6a+ * 60
23 Good'un 6a+ * 46
24 Puto cable 5a * 34
25 Right of Puto Cable 5b 4
26 Mareo repentino 7a ** 35
27 La flaca 6c+ ** 23
28 La decepción 7a+ ** 6
29 Uretrofilo 7a *** 45
30 Akira 7b *** 45
31 Donde estan mis amigos 7b+ ** 3
32 Oleanna 7b+ ** 1
33 Project
-
?  
34 Mamabi 7b * 2
  La Vida Misma
36 El angel flamenco 7a * 7
37 El Paso 7a+ ** 3
38 Aro de santo 6c+ ** 41
39 Right of Aro de santo 6c  
40 Maritobi 6a+ * 80
41 Right of Maritobi 5a 12
42 Aldebarán
-
5a ** 16
43 Lucita 6b+ 10
44 Zuli 6b 11
45 Yocare
-
6b ** 33
46 El Chaparrón 6b ** 22
47 Los manolos 6c ** 21
48 Wifi 6a+ 37
49 Facilonga 6a 19
50 Kuki 6a 20
51 Pingo 5a * 24
52 Ostras pedrin 5a * 49
53 Nato 6b+ *** 11
54 Al loro con el Xato 6c+ * 30
55 Manzanilla Madness 7a ** 64
56 Cheyenne 7a+ ** 39
57 Maquina pestosa 7b+ *** 22
58 Ankana wanamio 8a+ * 2
59 Al andalú 6c *** 78
60 Sandokina 8a+ *** 8
61 Sandokan 7c ** 32
62 ISIS 7c+ * 1
63 Veo Veo 7a+ 2
64 Right of Veo Veo 1  
65 Romper Biceps 6b *** 17
66 Si te gustael pique, pique 6b ** 75
67 Captain sardina 6c ** 84
68 Right of Capitan Sardina
-
6c ** 14
69 Two right of Capitan Sardina 6c 9
70 Espurga perros 6c ** 43
71 Calidad alemana 6b * 37
72 El emigrante 7a+ * 10
73 El chupacabras 7a+ ** 48
74 Zulu Master 7a+ * 20
75 Chica 5c 10
76 Paton * 6a+ 3
  Tocho del acebuche
78 El acebuche
-
7c *  
79 El anillo de los nibelungos
-
7a * 2
80 Papi xulo
-
6c * 2
81 Caxé
-
7a+ * 1
82 Pilla ratas
-
6c+ * 1
83 Rantamplán
-
6a 4
84 Duplo
-
6a+ * 2
  Buena Sombra
86 Dolomiti 7a+ *  
87 Fran sin natra 7b ** 85
88 Perseverancia 8a ** 2
89 Paquistani 8a *** 13
90 Liron careto 7c *** 35
91 Liron Careto Pitch 1 7a 89
92 Escombros 5c * 148
93 Autan 5c * 128
94 Champion Leo 8b 1
95 Los zauden 8a ** 2
96 Los Zauden (to first lower off) 7a ** 36
97 Derribamitos 8a ** 1
98 A ella le gusta la gasolina 8a *** 2
99 La golosa 7c+ *** 11
100 Right of La Golosa 6a * 2
101 El montepio de cretinos 8a  
102 Escalador parasito ?  
103 Las gallas 7b+  
104 El comite de sabios 8a 1
105 Judas 7b ** 53
106 El ruin de Roma 7c ** 25
107 Viejos y puretas 7a ** 138
108 Cosas caseras 7a+ *** 160
109 Tarde pero perfecto 6c+ ** 40
110 Yogur de Coco 6c *** 281
111 Comando escandilla 6c+ *** 56
112 Hilando fino 7b * 13
113 Buena sombre 6b+ *** 284
114 Alobeitor 6a+ *** 293
115 Sin mantenimiento 6a *** 368
116 Provinciano marrano 6c ** 82
117 Debora cuerpos 6b *** 236
118 Escacharra (Buena Sombra) 6b 20
119 El Amigo de Kunfu Panda 6a ** 24
120 Menasatrua 6a+ ** 163
121 El Sobeteo ajeno 7a+ ** 9
122 Efecto secundario 6b+ ** 100
123 Vaya pieza 6b ** 108
124 El Arco 6b 2
125 Las cosillas 6c+ * 22
126 Las cosas de mike 6b * 36
127 La pyme 6b * 25
  La Boda
129 Sarathoga 6c+ * 5
130 Perisca 6b * 9
131 Liposuccion 7b * 9
132 Madera de higuera 7a+ * 5
133 Puta parietaria 7a+ ** 2
134 El testigo 7a+ * 5
135 Connecting People 7b+ * 5
136 Project
-
?  
137 Bichaca 7c ** 7
138 Bulging Orange 8a+ * 2
139 Project
-
?  
140 La fea 5c * 41
141 Yolinda 6b+ * 38
142 El novio 6c+ ** 39
143 Beshumiau 7a+ ** 24
144 La novia 7a ** 45
145 La suegra 6c ** 17
146 Diente de elefante 6b ** 52
147 El anillo perdido 6a+ ** 59
148 La marcha atras 6c 5
  Poza de la Mona
150 Entre higos 6a 19
151 Laguna betiko 6b * 38
152 Buen amigo 6a * 41
153 Puerco Arana 5c * 56
154 Tarantula 6a 21
155 Parecia tonta 6a * 81
156 Esa bavaresa 6b * 55
157 Flora 6a * 82
158 Fauna 6a+ * 75
159 Cerebro de broca 6a * 69
160 Kira la bulti 6a * 57
161 Siempre Juli 6a+ 34
162 Ras cubano 6a * 16
163 Las gordas no dan resaca 6b+ * 11
164 Brioche 6a * 6
165 Puto Friend 6b 4
166 Deate de rollo 6b+ 9
167 Subete a la higuera 6a+ * 51
168 Poda higuera 6b * 48
169 Abrasiva 6c * 31
170 Malva loca 7a 9
171 Feltan negro 7b ** 18
172 Arquitectura moderna 7a+ * 18
173 Bee Bee 6c+ *** 97
174 Pina disfruta 7b+ ** 11
175 Vas de guais 7c **  
176 Leaning meany 7c  
177 Silicona Beach 7b+  
178 Excrementos 7a+ *** 10
179 Hirakundia 7c *** 2
180 Prosineski 7c+ *  
181 Lola 7a+ 4
182 Alacran 7b+ * 27
183 Amor al arte 7b ** 10
184 Ambiente selecto 6b+ 2
185 Calorin 5a 2
186 Right of Manzanilla Madness 7b ** 4
187 Bee bee right * 7a+ ** 1
188 Enemigo Público * 7a+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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