UKC

Climbs 123
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1071m a.s.l
Faces all

Neil Binns Tinto con Limon (F7a+) at El Torcal, Andalusia. © chris s

Crag features

he small National Park of El Torcal sits at an elevation of 1300m and forms the summit and slopes of a large limestone peak, around 10km to the south of the town of Antequera. The summit area of the peak is a broad plateau that has been heavily eroded to form some fantastic limestone ‘karst’ scenery - a geological curiosity. The karst formations present an amazing climbers' playground, set amidst a myriad of spectacular pinnacles and spires.

The shallow grassy valleys and hollows between the pinnacles make lovely picnic and sunbathing spots making El Torcal a very pleasant place to visit.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, take the winding paved road up the hill past Las Encantadas, to the town of Valle de Abdalajis. Go through the town and turn left onto the main Antequera road. Continue for 20km towards Antequera. This main road can also be reached by driving around to the lakes above The Gorge and picking up the road to the north of the El Chorro massif. Just before Antequera is reached, turn right (signed

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  La Carretera
2 Domingacios Crack
-
7a *  
3 Ero ergo sur
-
7a *  
4 Mercedes 26 años 7b **  
5 Asfalto left 6c *  
6 Asfalto 6a *** 61
7 La fuerza del destino 7b+ * 3
  El Fraile
9 Exitos encadenados 6c+ * 1
10 Sacrifice 7b **  
11 Maldonado cabron 6b ** 4
12 Los golfos del golfo 6b * 3
13 Blank Wall 8a  
14 Mala reputacion 6c+ ** 2
15 A vista de pájaro 7a+ **  
16 Hotel California 7a+ ** 2
17 Turboniajas 7a+ ** 1
18 Villanueva City 6b+ *** 3
19 El trepaollas 6a+ ** 6
20 La grieta de Julieta 5b ** 10
21 Paraiso de los cazos romos 7a * 2
22 Pillar 6c+ * 1
23 La calentona 7a *  
24 Calentamientos 6c+ * 1
25 Choralasmirlas froe 6a * 3
26 Arete 7b+ ***  
27 Dos Ryobis y un destino 7b+ *  
28 La union hace la fiesta 7a * 1
29 Left Arete ? ***  
30 The Hanging Slab ? ***  
31 Left of Bulging Crack ? ***  
32 Té en el Sahara 8a+ ***  
33 Hierva Luisa 8b+ ***  
34 Menta poleo 8c **  
35 Manzanilla 8b **  
36 Left of Cowboy 8a **  
37 Cowboy 7b **  
38 Right of Cowboy 6c+ *  
39 Left Split 7a *  
40 Right Split 6c  
  La Bodega
42 Sol y sombra 5a * 64
43 Over the Tube 4c * 12
44 Hau's Hole 7a  
Climb name Grade
45 Martini bianco 6b+ * 45
46 Runnel Route 5a * 48
47 Dahikiri left ? ***  
48 Dahikiri 7c **  
49 Tequila left ? ***  
50 Tequila 7b * 1
51 Round Head 7a * 3
52 Little Arete 6c * 2
53 Nicey 6c+ *** 9
54 Tinto left ? ***  
55 Tinto con Limón 7a+ * 1
56 Tinto con Casera 6c+ * 3
57 Pacharán left ? ***  
58 Pacharán con endrinas 6c 2
59 Calimocho 6b 2
60 Licor 6a * 3
61 The Ivy Crack 6b *  
62 Faustino 7b+ *  
63 Moscatel 6c+ * 2
64 Pocketed Face ? ***  
65 Crack and Corner ? ***  
66 Thin Wall ? ***  
67 Thin Finger Crack ? ***  
68 Pacharán con mier 7a+  
69 Frexinet 7a+ 1
70 Cruzcampo 6a+ ** 18
71 Don Perignon del 69 6a ** 37
72 Widen 5c * 32
73 Beer 6b+ ** 6
74 Cervezas 7a+ * 1
75 Ante la rasca coñac pal cuerpa 6c+ * 2
76 Coctel tropical 6a 1
77 Tómato algo 6a  
78 Gentle Arete ? ***  
79 Sugumu 6c+ ***  
80 Los niños del rioja 6c *** 2
81 Desperate Looker 7c **  
  Sector Callejon Siete Vias
83 Siete Vias I - Route No. 4 (a)
-
6b+ * 3
84 La Gitana
-
6a 13
85 Eternamente Fatima
-
6b+ 1
86 Haz Más Grado Pringado
-
8a  
87 Te Digo Trigo por no Decirte Rodrigo 6c+ 1
88 Unknown 6c 2
Climb name Grade
89 En el dos Caballos
-
6b+ 5
90 Apietate el pollo (Siete Vias I)
-
6b+ ** 3
91 La del 15 6a *** 5
92 El guru de vicios
-
6a+ 5
93 La menuilla 6a+ ** 2
94 Confrencia por la paz
-
6a+ * 4
95 El Aguilla
-
5c 5
  Sector Siete Vias
97 Sector Siete Vias Bloque A Route 1
-
4a 14
98 La Mascara
-
4a 19
99 Horóscopo 4a 15
100 Los Caballeros del Sobabo 6b *** 5
101 Gaceta Para Sodos
-
5a * 15
102 Unknown (Siete Vias A Route 6)
-
6b 1
103 El Tio del Bigote
-
5c 4
104 La Veija Barbuda
-
6a 4
  Sector Bordillos
106 África 6a+ 2
107 Beluga 5c 4
108 Tucán 6b+ 2
109 Sector Bordillos unlisted route 5a *** 3
  Sector Corral
111 Patagonia
-
6b *** 2
112 Gisela 6c+ * 2
  Other Sectors (Not in 2008 Rockfax)
114 Siete Vias II - Route No.8
-
4c 3
115 Callejon - Route No.9
-
6a ** 1
116 Callejon - Route No.10
-
6a+ * 1
117 Con Joroba No Se Bloquera
-
6c ** 2
118 Cancion Trieste de Pepe et Muerto
-
7a *** 1
119 Metalica
-
7a ** 1
120 Zombi Combi
-
6a+ *** 2
121 Palomeras
-
6a ** 1
122 Segoviano
-
6a *** 3
123 Petete 4a * 3
124 Amadeus 5a *** 1
125 Unlisted (Radio Mast Parking) - Right Edge f6A * 1
126 Unlisted (down road & left): Tribute Act f6C ** 1
127 Unlisted (down road & left): Centre f4+ 1
128 Unlisted (down road & left): Right Sitter f6B * 1
129 Siete Vias (Zona Principal) Block B route 6 (left of La Gitana) 5b 1
130 La Abuelita Rockera *
-
7a * 1
131 Neblina Patagonica *
-
6c *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer philhaigh