Climbs 38
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 752m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

The main cave of Archidona is one of the World’s most impressive sport crags and its line-up of state-of-the-art climbs are worthy of a visit by any climber if only to view just what it is possible to climb. Unfortunately there are no good easier or mid-grade climbs here, even on the margins of the cave, but for climbers looking for good hard routes this is a top spot. The majority of the climbs are extremely long, sustained and overhanging giving spectacular pitches of very high quality. The outlook from the crag is magnificent, the rim of the cave framing the seemingly endless patchwork of olive groves that stretch away to the distant horizon.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, head for Antequera via Valle de Abdalajis. Go through Antequera following signs for Granada and pick up the main autovia (A92) heading east towards Granada. Follow this to the second Archidona exit (Junction 167). Head towards Archidona and after 0.9km turn left onto a dirt road and then after 0.4km turn left again. 0.6km along this dirt road is the parking (do not block the road). The crag is above you. Follow a path through the olive grove up into the cave. (1 hour 10 minutes from El Chorro depending on traffic).


El Chorro

A full colour guidebook dedicated the area around El Chorro in Andalusia in Spain. Covering the famous Gorge and all the fine crags near the village, plus many superb outlying areas. The book is in the modern Rockfax style with full colour photo topos, descriptions, symbols and maps, plus loads of excellent action shots.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Andalucia 2 Edition (2007)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Amantis religiosa 7a+ * 3
2 Cayo malayo 7a+ ** 16
3 La canal 6a 16
4 Posiblmente lluevan piedras 7b+ ** 5
5 Corner Left 7a+ * 4
6 Slab Left 4c 4
7 Slab Right 4c 4
8 Rey de azucar 8b  
9 Happy Hardcore 8c+  
10 Kallisté 8c *** 1
11 Salas 8b+ ***  
12 Alpechin 8c ***  
13 Orujo 9a+ ***  
Climb name Grade
14 Piolin 8b+ 1
15 Primera linea 7b+ * 3
16 Lindo gatito 7b+ ** 5
17 Antonia 7c ** 3
18 La penita del perito 7b * 1
19 Huele tema 8a+  
20 Campo amargo 8a *** 1
21 Estado mental 8c  
22 Transilvania 8c+ 1
23 Danza agresiva 7c *** 11
24 El precario del sicario 7c+ **  
25 Carbunco 8c ***  
26 Carbon 14 8b+ *** 1
Climb name Grade
27 Trance 8b+ ***  
28 Gurú 6b+ * 5
29 Demolition Man 6c * 2
  Location Unknown
31 Harem
6a 3
32 Tabsoa
5a 4
33 Moto Nabo
5a 2
34 Enfiscacion
6a+ 2
35 Atestados Y Informes
6c 2
36 Ay Que Dolor * 5c 1
37 Olvidada? * 7c ** 3
38 Danza Erotica * 7c ** 2
39 Unknown 7a+ * 7a+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ellis Butler-Barker