Climbs 96
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces S

south coast winter © Tommy Harris

Crag features

Two contrasting walls near a couple of rock amphitheatres. One is a great beginners area the other has some steep hard routes. Escape is easy and routes mostly start from a non-tidal ledge, which do get washed in rough seas. Abseil approach or scranble down.

Approach notes

From Durlston Car Park follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west (right - looking out) along the coast path. Continue along here and 150m beyond the 4th stone wall from the lighthouse (the western limit of Durlston Country park) the cliff-top path dips into a small valley above a slabby cove. Cross the fence here at a small stile. This is Amphitheatre Ledge. For the Isis and Hangover Areas either follow an exposed narrow path along the cliff-top, contouring right (looking out). Pass several belay stakes until you come to a large gearing-up ledge after 200m (just beyond another large amphitheatre known as the Lecture Theatre). Alternatively continue along the main coast path, cross a stile and follow a steep path leading down through nettle beds, and past a tall post, to the cliff-top gearing up ledge.

Additional details - July 2010: There appears to have been some land slippage a couple of feet in length half way along the narrow cliff top path, it was still passable but very suspect. Probably now best to take the alternative approach path mentioned above and make your own assessment of the situation from there.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Unknown Ledge
2 Hazhard
-
HVS 5a  
3 Blast Suburbia
-
E1  
4 Fuel My Fire 8a+ ** 1
5 Jesus and Mary Chain E3 6a ** 5
6 The God Slot HVS 5a ** 10
7 Noddy
-
VS 4c 4
8 Squeeze Chimney HS 4b 5
9 Doppler Shift
-
HVS 5a 1
10 Joe Joe's Route HVS 5a 1
11 Swingtime
-
HVS 4c 3
12 Swingtime Direct
-
E2 6a 1
13 Damson HVS 5a ** 17
14 Unknown Ledge Traverse S 4a * 5
  Flake Ledge
16 The Coral Prison VS 4b * 55
17 Poof
-
HS 4a 54
18 Hell's Teeth HVS 5a * 35
19 Moonstone E1 5b * 24
20 Myriotissa
-
E1 5b 3
21 Aguas Verdes E1 5b * 6
22 Glove
-
VD 46
23 Clove Itch VS 4b 1
24 Grottle VD * 136
25 Clov
-
VD 48
26 P.U.M. HS 4a 11
27 Mary Rose
-
VS 4b 36
28 Lobster HVS 5b * 21
29 Thermidor E2 5b 4
30 Chalkfree E1 5b  
31 Eavesdropper
-
HVS 5b 1
32 Make Like a Bird
-
HVS 5a 3
33 Wessex Hangover VS 4c ** 68
  The Jumble
35 Wessex Way HS 4b 15
36 Curving Corner
-
D 40
37 Mutation
-
VD 15
38 Blow Hole Route
-
D 24
39 Temptation
-
VD 29
40 Vee-Chimney
-
S 49
41 Fingerrip
-
HVS 5c 9
42 Fingertip
-
VS 5a 27
43 Crazy Fingers
-
E1 6a 1
44 Cheat
-
E2 6a 1
45 Synergy
-
E3 5c  
46 The Beastly Step
-
VD 14
  Hangover Area
48 Form a Queue
-
VS 4c 46
49 The Beastly Traverse VD 28
50 Scrambler's Wall VD 16
51 Inspiration S 4a 649
52 Lost In Translation VS 4c * 27
53 Consolation S 4a 582
54 Chockney VD 4a * 872
55 The Chimney VD * 494
56 The Chimney (Direct Finish) S 4a 240
57 Hangover VS 5a ** 421
58 Resurrection HS 4b * 560
59 Perfection S 4a 295
60 Old Lag's Corner VS 4c * 324
61 Bunneys wall lefthand HVS 5b * 6
62 Bunney's Wall VS 5a * 527
  Isis Area
64 Fallen Block Climb VD * 361
65 Pulpit Route D ** 460
66 Ioma VS 4c 10
67 Kariate E1 5b * 2
68 Pearly Gate HVS 5a 103
69 Eskimo Nell E1 5b ** 165
70 Tenuicollis
-
E1 5a * 14
71 Isis VS 4c ** 351
72 Tekneeque E1 5b 3
73 Archangel E3 6a 6
74 Peacemaker E1 5b * 54
75 Hobbit
-
VS 4b 8
76 Only Thisbig
-
HVS 5b 6
77 Thisbe
-
S 4b 21
78 Frisbee
-
VS 4c 8
79 Midsummer Crack
-
HS 4c 13
80 Tina
-
HS 4a 10
81 Pyramus
-
S 3
82 Little Red Watering Can
-
HS 4a 2
  Amphitheatre Ledge
84 Valentino VD 3
85 Varina HS 4a 17
86 Follow The Way E1 5b 5
87 Come-on Head Do Your Stuff E1 5b * 5
88 Uncry These Tears E2 5c * 11
89 Solitude
-
VS 4b 6
90 Atomic Road Hero E5 6b *  
91 Theory of Everything E5 6b ** 5
92 Zoolookologie E5 6a ** 11
93 Shelob HVS 4c 1
94 In a Big Sky E2 5c 5
95 Land of the Leaning E2 5b * 4
96 World in Action E5 6b ** 1
97 Arapiles Syndrome E3 5b * 4
98 Mr. Ruckle E1 5a * 10
99 Pogor
-
E1 5b 3
100 Gaston VS 4b 1
101 Dragon E1 5a 1
102 Old Father Clyme HVS 4c 2

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