UKC

Climbs 105
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces S

south coast winter © Tommy Harris

Crag features

The Cattle Troughs routes are easy to reach and have generally sound rock. However, gear can be a bit sparse on some climbs and it is a dangerous venue in rough, or even moderate, seas. The Cattle Troughs Area is popular with novices and beginners, although for a first taste of Swanage, Subluminal may be a better bet. 

The Unknown and Flake Ledges are very quiet venues that have a number of interesting and varied climbs spanning the grades. Amphitheatre Ledge Area has some quality harder climbs on reasonably good rock, whilst the slabs and short friendly walls of the Hangover and Isis Areas are favourites with those looking for good easier and mid-grade routes.

Approach notes

From Durlston car park, follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west along the coast path (right - looking out). Continue to 150m beyond the fourth stone wall from the lighthouse (the western limit of Durlston Country park) where the cliff-top path dips into a small valley above a slabby cove. Cross the fence here at a small stile. This is Amphitheatre Ledge. For the Isis, Hangover and Flake Ledge Areas follow a narrow, exposed path that contours rightwards along the cliff-top (looking out). Pass several belay stakes until until a large gearing-up ledge is reached after 200m (just beyond a large amphitheatre known as the Lecture Theatre). Alternatively continue along the main coast path, cross a stile and follow a steep path leading down through nettle beds, and past a tall post, to the cliff-top gearing up ledge.


Additional details - July 2010: There appears to have been some land slippage a couple of feet in length half way along the narrow cliff top path, it was still passable but very suspect. Probably now best to take the alternative approach path mentioned above and make your own assessment of the situation from there.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Unknown Ledge
2 Eastwood Ho!
-
HVS 4c  
3 Matt Wild Hairy Frog
-
VS 4c  
4 Hazhard
-
HVS 5a  
5 Blast Suburbia E1 5b  
6 Jesus and Mary Chain E3 6a ** 5
7 Fuel My Fire 8a+ ** 1
8 The God Slot HVS 5a ** 12
9 Noddy
-
VS 4c 4
10 Squeeze Chimney HS 4b 5
11 Doppler Shift
-
HVS 5a 1
12 Joe Joe's Route HVS 5a 1
13 Swingtime
-
HVS 4c 3
14 Swingtime Direct
-
E2 6a 1
15 Kismet
-
E3 6a  
16 Damson HVS 5a ** 21
17 Dragon E1 5a 1
  Flake Ledge
19 Unknown Ledge Traverse S 4a * 6
20 The Coral Prison VS 4b * 59
21 Poof
-
HS 4a 54
22 Hell's Teeth HVS 5a * 41
23 Moonstone E1 5b * 25
24 Myriotissa
-
E1 5b 4
25 Aguas Verdes E1 5b * 6
26 Clove Itch VS 4b 2
27 Glove
-
VD 48
28 Grottle VD * 132
29 Clov
-
VD 47
30 P.U.M. HS 4a 10
31 Mary Rose
-
VS 4b 37
32 Lobster HVS 5b * 25
33 Thermidor E2 5b 4
34 Chalkfree E1 5b  
35 Eavesdropper
-
HVS 5b 1
36 Make Like a Bird
-
HVS 5a 3
37 Wessex Hangover VS 4c ** 68
Climb name Grade
  The Jumble
39 Wessex Way HS 4b 16
40 Curving Corner
-
D 46
41 Mutation
-
VD 14
42 Blow Hole Route
-
D 25
43 Temptation
-
VD 35
44 Vee-Chimney
-
S 51
45 Fingerrip
-
HVS 5c 10
46 Fingertip
-
VS 5a 31
47 Crazy Fingers
-
E1 6a 1
48 Cheat
-
E2 6a 1
49 Synergy
-
E3 5c  
50 The Beastly Step
-
VD 14
51 Old Father Clyme HVS 4c 2
  Hangover Area
53 Form a Queue
-
VS 4c 49
54 The Beastly Traverse VD 28
55 Scrambler's Wall VD 16
56 Inspiration S 4a 699
57 Lost In Translation VS 4c * 28
58 Consolation S 4a 644
59 Chockney VD 4a * 928
60 The Chimney VD * 520
61 The Chimney (Direct Finish) S 4a 266
62 Hangover VS 5a ** 433
63 Resurrection HS 4b * 602
64 Perfection S 4a 326
65 Old Lag's Corner VS 4c * 341
66 Bunney's Wall Left-Hand HVS 5b * 7
67 Bunney's Wall VS 5a * 547
  Isis Area
69 Fallen Block Climb VD * 375
70 Pulpit Route D ** 485
71 Ioma VS 4c 10
72 Kariate E1 5b * 2
73 Pearly Gate HVS 5a 106
74 Tziganes E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
75 Sprunny's Groove
-
E1 5a  
76 Eskimo Nell E1 5b ** 160
77 Thineas Fog
-
E1 5a  
78 Tenuicollis
-
E1 5a * 13
79 Isis VS 4c ** 350
80 Tekneeque E1 5b 3
81 Archangel E3 6a 6
82 Peacemaker E1 5b * 56
83 Hobbit
-
VS 4b 8
84 Only Thisbig
-
HVS 5b 6
85 Thisbe
-
S 4b 24
86 Frisbee
-
VS 4c 8
87 Midsummer Crack
-
HS 4c 13
88 Tina
-
HS 4a 10
89 Pyramus
-
S 3
90 Little Red Watering Can
-
HS 4a 2
91 Patient Pam
-
HVS 4c  
92 Red Face Day
-
E3 6a  
93 A Dark Shape, Falling
-
HVS 5a  
  Amphitheatre Ledge
95 Valentino VD 3
96 Varina HS 4a 17
97 Follow The Way E1 5b 5
98 Come-on Head Do Your Stuff E1 5b * 5
99 Uncry These Tears E2 5c * 11
100 Solitude
-
VS 4b 6
101 Atomic Road Hero E5 6b *  
102 Theory of Everything E5 6b ** 5
103 Zoolookologie E5 6a ** 11
104 Shelob HVS 4c 1
105 In a Big Sky E2 5c 5
106 Land of the Leaning E2 5b * 4
107 World in Action E5 6b ** 1
108 Arapiles Syndrome E3 5b * 4
109 Mr. Ruckle E1 5a * 13
110 Pogor
-
E1 5b 3
111 Gaston VS 4b 1

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