Climbs 96
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

south coast winter © Tommy Harris

Crag features

Two contrasting walls near a couple of rock amphitheatres. One is a great beginners area the other has some steep hard routes. Escape is easy and routes mostly start from a non-tidal ledge, which do get washed in rough seas. Abseil approach or scranble down.

Approach notes

From Durlston Car Park follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west (right - looking out) along the coast path. Continue along here and 150m beyond the 4th stone wall from the lighthouse (the western limit of Durlston Country park) the cliff-top path dips into a small valley above a slabby cove. Cross the fence here at a small stile. This is Amphitheatre Ledge. For the Isis and Hangover Areas either follow an exposed narrow path along the cliff-top, contouring right (looking out). Pass several belay stakes until you come to a large gearing-up ledge after 200m (just beyond another large amphitheatre known as the Lecture Theatre). Alternatively continue along the main coast path, cross a stile and follow a steep path leading down through nettle beds, and past a tall post, to the cliff-top gearing up ledge.

Additional details - July 2010: There appears to have been some land slippage a couple of feet in length half way along the narrow cliff top path, it was still passable but very suspect. Probably now best to take the alternative approach path mentioned above and make your own assessment of the situation from there.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Unknown Ledge 
2Hazhard
-
HVS 5a  
3Blast Suburbia
-
E1  
4Fuel My Fire8a+ **1
5Jesus and Mary ChainE3 6a **5
6The God SlotHVS 5a **10
7Noddy
-
VS 4c 4
8Squeeze ChimneyHS 4b 5
9Doppler Shift
-
HVS 5a 1
10Joe Joe's RouteHVS 5a 1
11Swingtime
-
HVS 4c 3
12Swingtime Direct
-
E2 6a 1
13DamsonHVS 5a **18
14Unknown Ledge TraverseS 4a *5
 Flake Ledge 
16The Coral PrisonVS 4b *56
17Poof
-
HS 4a 58
18Hell's TeethHVS 5a *31
19MoonstoneE1 5b *21
20Myriotissa
-
E1 5b 3
21Aguas VerdesE1 5b *6
22Glove
-
VD 45
23Clove ItchVS 4b 1
24GrottleVD *131
25Clov
-
VD 45
26P.U.M.HS 4a 7
27Mary Rose
-
VS 4b 37
28LobsterHVS 5b *22
29ThermidorE2 5b 4
30ChalkfreeE1 5b  
31Eavesdropper
-
HVS 5b 1
32Make Like a Bird
-
HVS 5a 3
33Wessex HangoverVS 4c **64
 The Jumble 
35Wessex WayHS 4b 15
36Curving Corner
-
D 34
37Mutation
-
VD 12
38Blow Hole Route
-
D 19
39Temptation
-
VD 22
40Vee-Chimney
-
S 45
41Fingerrip
-
HVS 5c 9
42Fingertip
-
VS 5a 26
43Crazy Fingers
-
E1 6a 1
44Cheat
-
E2 6a 1
45Synergy
-
E3 5c  
46The Beastly Step
-
VD 14
 Hangover Area 
48Form a Queue
-
VS 4c 41
49The Beastly TraverseVD 29
50Scrambler's WallVD 15
51InspirationS 4a 617
52Lost In TranslationVS 4c *27
53ConsolationS 4a 558
54ChockneyVD 4a *834
55The ChimneyVD *464
56The Chimney (Direct Finish)S 4a 230
57HangoverVS 5a **402
58ResurrectionHS 4b *528
59PerfectionS 4a 272
60Old Lag's CornerVS 4c *312
61Bunneys wall lefthandHVS 5b *8
62Bunney's WallVS 5a *510
 Isis Area 
64Fallen Block ClimbVD *339
65Pulpit RouteD **430
66IomaVS 4c 10
67KariateE1 5b *2
68Pearly GateHVS 5a 100
69Eskimo NellE1 5b **156
70Tenuicollis
-
E1 5a *13
71IsisVS 4c **336
72TekneequeE1 5b 3
73ArchangelE3 6a 6
74PeacemakerE1 5b *56
75Hobbit
-
VS 4b 8
76Only Thisbig
-
HVS 5b 6
77Thisbe
-
S 4b 20
78Frisbee
-
VS 4c 8
79Midsummer Crack
-
HS 4c 13
80Tina
-
HS 4a 10
81Pyramus
-
S 3
82Little Red Watering Can
-
HS 4a 2
 Amphitheatre Ledge 
84ValentinoVD 3
85VarinaHS 4a 19
86Follow The WayE1 5b 5
87Come-on Head Do Your StuffE1 5b *5
88Uncry These TearsE2 5c *11
89Solitude
-
VS 4b 6
90Atomic Road HeroE5 6b * 
91Theory of EverythingE5 6b **5
92ZoolookologieE5 6a **10
93ShelobHVS 4c 1
94In a Big SkyE2 5c 5
95Land of the LeaningE2 5b *4
96World in ActionE5 6b **1
97Arapiles SyndromeE3 5b *4
98Mr. RuckleE1 5a *10
99Pogor
-
E1 5b 3
100GastonVS 4b 1
101DragonE1 5a 1
102Old Father ClymeHVS 4c 2

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