Climbs 5
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

The Information related to the climbs is taken from here http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/ under the Enderby Quarry section however a few things have changed since 1993.  For example, as regards the gate and the TIP entrance etc, they are no longer there so please see approach notes below for updated details.  As for the climbs themselves, I am open to correction (please see footnote).  They are quite good fun though the rock is loose in places, the crag is overgrown and mucky and to be honest it is not the most enjoyable.  It is fairly local to me however and I am not particularly picky if it means I am getting some climbing in.

THE CLIMBS

At the left end of the face in a bay at a lower level is a blank slab finishing at half height. It is bounded on the right by an obvious cracked overhang. Look carefully as all of this is behind the trees.

1 Drott 10m VS 4c
Climb the shallow corner on the left side of the slab over overlaps to finish rightwards onto a grassy bay.

2 Hy-Mac 8m HVS 5a
The right arete of the slab to finish up Dozer.

3 Dozer 8m VS 4c
Climb the obvious cracked overhang and slab above.

4 Scammel 8m S
At a higher level climb the left side of the slab.

The photo that I include has what I believe to be the above four climbs marked on it however I am open to correction especially from those that will have been there back in the 90s or before when it was more popular.  In the spirit of these routes being listed, I have marked them up as the routes I have climbed rather than claiming 1st ascents of new routes though as per previous mention, if these turn out not to be the routes I have climbed I will then be claiming, especially as I have treated them as High Ball Boulder Problems / Free Solo as I have no trad experience.  I have bouldered a number of other bits but as of yet have not marked them up...

Approach notes

Enderby is near Leicester and not far from J21 of the M1 via Leicester Lane down the B582 (Desford Road) which connects to the A47 (please use google maps from location added)

There are a number of ways in:

a) Walk down Harold's Lane where the new houses are until you get to the old Quarry Masters House (now flats) at the end in a wooded area.  Continue onto the path that leads to the Lubbersthorpe Bridle Way (runs down the side of the Landfill which used to be the main Enderby Quarry).  You get to the Warren Park Lane end and can walk in through the entrance to the Truck Yard.

b) Turn onto Warren Park Lane from the B582 near St George's Nursery School and E H Smith Builders Merchants (you will see what remains of an old railway bridge which in itself is fun for a boulder if you literally have nothing else to do).  Follow the road and again go in through the Truck Stop Entrance.

c) Between Warren Park Lane and the first lot of houses on the main road, there is a little wall and some woodland.  Hop over the wall and follow the woodland round to the Crag.  It is possible to get on top of the Crag from here but please do not trespass into gardens along the way.

A WORD OF WARNING:  There are metal containers, broken metal work, oil and general junk around parts of the base so careful where you stand if you walk in from the truck yard.

Access Advice

Having spoken to the owners of the Truck Yard, they advised that they rent the land and the Crag itself does not belong to the landowner they rent from (checked) but belongs to the Old Quarry House (Harolds Lane).  Having tried unsuccessfully to find the rightful landowner, and with the truck yard guys not being bothered provided you don't block the yard, make a mess or make a nuisance of yourself, crack on and enjoy your climbing.

Guidebooks

this is as local as a crag could possibly get to me being only a couple of minutes up the road. keen to try it out for a while me and my brother finally went down today. the half height slab is good clean rock but offers little in the way of holds or protection. where as the top 3rd is very blocky and loose and we pulled off some big rocks while we were there doing hymac which is a decent route on the arete but the rock is quite unpredictable. the whole crag looks as though it would have been the very top of the quarried face with the best rock lost under foot. the book says granite but this crumbling mess is more akin to climbing sandstone.
Allterraindude - 26/Feb/19
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Drott VS 4c 1
2 Hy-Mac HVS 5a 2
Climb name Grade
3 Dozer VS 4c 1
4 Scammel S 1
Climb name Grade
5 Instead of St Peter's V1 1

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