Climbs 145
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces S

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nearly wet.. © Tommy Harris

Crag features

The Promenade is the first of the predominantly sport climbing crags passed on the approach from Durlston Country Park and is one of the best roof climbing crags in the south of England. The savage bulging walls here give a host of powerful pitches that hit you from the first move and keep going until you heave yourself around the final lip to clip the lower-off - exhausted but satisfied. Whilst most visitors will come here for the excellent bolted roofs, the trad lines that sit comfortably between the bolts should not be ignored. Many of these also take on the stacked roofs at some impressively big grades.

There isn't too much here for those leading in the mid and lower grades though although the routes described are worthwhile and you can also easily combine a visit with the near-by Unknown Ledge. A handful of the recorded boulder problems have also been included, as they stay dry in the rain.

The big flat belay ledges at the base of the crag are another of The Promenade's enticing features although they are prone to being wave-washed even in moderate seas - watch where you leave your rucksacks!

Approach notes

From Durlston car park, follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west (right - looking out) along the coast path. Continue to a stile just before the two mile pylons. From here, drop down a steep grass gully to a ledge above a large rock amphitheatre. Descend this (Diff) past a tricky step at the bottom to gain the platform. There are abseil bolts if required (the rope can be pulled down afterwards) and this is probably advisable on a first visit.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

Out of print:
13/08/2012 almost all the routes have new bolts.
Haydn Jones - 13/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Benny Area
2 The Eastern Traverse
-
E1 5c  
3 Benny A1 *** 111
4 Clever Dick E1 5c ** 1
5 Atonement 7c ** 7
6 Air of Detachment 7b ** 3
7 Crimes Against the Soul 7a * 7
8 Hot Flush Down Under 7b 5
9 Hot to Trot 7b+ * 1
10 Gangster Lean 6c ** 50
11 Seppukku 6c ** 66
12 Chicago Peace 6b+ ** 54
13 Clamp Down 6c+ ** 21
14 J.J.Burnell, King of the Bass 6b * 41
15 Just Another Victim 7b+ ** 1
16 Godfodder 7c+ **  
17 A Bosch Boy, a Trad and a Funky Dredd E4 6b 1
18 Winking Wall
-
E2 6a 1
19 Magnesian Days
-
E2 6a  
20 Show of Hands 7a * 19
21 Empowerless 7a * 9
22 Community Service 7a * 8
23 Revelation Chimney VS 4c ** 34
24 Waves Become Wings 7b+ *** 11
25 Birth Pains of New Nations 7b *** 24
26 Tessellations 7b *** 73
  Total Seizure Area
28 Carpe Diem 7b+ ** 18
29 Total Seizure 7c *** 21
30 State of Play 7c+ ** 1
31 Solid State Logic 8a ** 3
32 Defining Moment 7c+ *  
33 Aerial Pursuit
-
HVS 5a  
34 Walter's Route VD 10
35 Danglefoot HD 51
  Sunscoop Slab
37 Crack Minuit
-
S  
38 Branchline
-
VS 4b  
39 Scoopy Won
-
VS 4c  
40 Scoopy Too
-
HS 4a  
41 Baldrick
-
VS 4c  
42 Crozzle Crack
-
S  
43 Scoopy Twee
-
VS 4c  
44 Millicrack
-
VD  
45 Milligroove
-
S  
  Tensile Groove Test Area
47 Tiddly-On-Prom-Prom
-
HVS 4c  
48 The Flail Trail 6a * 198
49 My New Top 6b+ 123
50 Violent Breed 7b+ ** 30
51 Down in the Sewer 7b ** 33
Climb name Grade
52 Elements of Abstraction 7c **  
53 Tensile Groove Test E4 6a ** 13
54 West of a Crave f6C *  
55 Crest of a Wave Start f6B+ ** 1
56 Crest of a Wave 7b ** 9
57 Not a Trad Route f5+ *  
58 Crystal Voyager E3 5c ** 8
59 Crystal Voyager 2 E4 6a *** 2
60 Star of Africa 7b+ * 1
61 Len's Rule of the Sea E3 6a ** 8
62 Yorkshire Talk 7b+ ** 10
63 Shock to the System 7c+ ** 1
64 The Resistor 7c *  
65 Electric Circus 7b+ ** 7
66 Volts Discharge 7a * 28
67 The Undertow Traverse f7A ** 3
68 Mr. Gymnasia 7a * 44
69 Gym'n'Tonic 7b+ 2
70 Load it for Me 7b ** 12
71 Load it for Me Direct 7b+ **  
72 Deep Puddle Dynamics 7c+ * 2
73 The Garage Mechanic 7c * 1
  Ride the Lightning Area
75 Coming in a Rush 7b+ 2
76 Fat Lip f7A * 1
77 Chasm Groove E1 5b ** 4
78 Ride the Lightning f7C+ **  
79 Double-Figure E-Grade Dreams f4+ *  
80 Monumental Effort f4+ *  
81 Drive By f7A **  
82 Juggernaut f7B ** 1
83 Jack Knife f7A+ **  
84 Techno Sketching f7A * 1
85 Puddle Jumper f6C+ * 2
  Becalmed Area
87 Bob's Roof 8a * 1
88 Baby-faced Assassin 7a+ * 11
89 Boongary HVS 4c * 8
90 Hip Hop HVS 5a * 3
91 German New Order 7b+ * 3
92 Blitzkrieg 7b+  
93 Big Brother is Watching 7a * 7
94 Ju An Si Wei VS 5a * 1
95 Kangaroo HS 4b * 6
96 Spray Fever E1 5a 2
97 Distant Early Warning E1 5c 3
98 Original Route S 4b 8
99 Kool and the Gang E1 5b * 3
100 New Wave Slab HS 4a 2
101 Up the Catwalk
-
HVS 5a  
102 Playing With Fire 6c * 11
Climb name Grade
103 Genetix 6b * 22
104 Seratonin 7a+ * 2
105 Boiling Point 7a * 4
106 To Fever Pitch 7a+ * 2
107 Becalmed 7a+ * 3
108 Stakk Attakk E2 5c * 3
109 Geordie Pride 7a * 8
110 DWM E2 5c * 5
111 Peggy's Cove 6c+ 5
112 Zeitgeist 7a+ * 25
113 Spirits Rising 7b 6
  The Futurist Area
115 A Quantum Jump for Apekind E4 6a 4
116 Dafinko 7c *  
117 The Calling 7b * 2
118 Guided by Voices 7b+ * 1
119 Ocean of Violence E3 6a 3
120 Absolute Dissent 7a+ ** 9
121 Grossville 7a ** 55
122 Spacewalk Left Variant 7a ** 2
123 Spacewalk 7b *** 44
124 Wingwalker Extraordinaire
-
E4 6a  
125 Joyride
-
E2 6a 1
126 Sea Ride HVS 5a * 31
127 Hackney's Hammer HVS 5a * 30
128 Sexaphone E6 6b **  
129 Space Threshold E3 6a * 2
130 Edward's Effort E1 5b * 13
131 Edward's Effort (pre rockfall) VS 4b ** 1
132 All Apologies 7a+ * 11
133 Strangled in Black 7a * 14
134 Titter Ye Not Mrs! 6b+ ** 57
135 Romu
-
HVS 4c  
136 Sargasso
-
HVS 4c 1
137 Two Tickets to the Gun Show 7a+ * 20
138 Fat Necrosis E4 6b *  
139 Rise of the Robots 7b+ ** 41
140 Liquid Steel 7c ** 19
141 The Futurist 2002 7b+ ** 3
142 Event Horizon 8a+ ** 2
143 Berserka E4 6b  
144 The Shape of Roofs to Come 7b * 21
145 Revolt into Style
-
E3 6a  
146 War of Attrition 7c+ * 2
147 Ape Crap E2 6a * 1
148 Distortion Plan
-
E4 6a  
149 The Incredible Hulk 7c ** 8
150 Howling Stone E4 6a ** 3
151 Grockles Passage VS 4c * 9
152 Long John's
-
HVS 5a  

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