Climbs 125
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces S

nearly wet.. © Tommy Harris

Crag features

The first of the sport areas at Swanage. Steep bulging walls with some short and intense climbs. Still needs some re-gearing work. Easy approach and access via non-tidal ledge. One small bouldering wall and a handful of trad routes.

Approach notes

From Durlston Car Park follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west (right - looking out) along the coast path. Continue to a stile just before the two

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
13/08/2012 almost all the routes have new bolts.
Haydn Jones - 13/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Benny / Tesselations Area
2 Benny A1 *** 149
3 Clever Dick E1 5c ** 1
4 Atonement 7c ** 7
5 Air of Detachment 7b ** 3
6 Crimes Against the Soul 7a * 6
7 Hot Flush Down Under 7b 5
8 Hot to Trot 7b+ * 1
9 Gangster Lean 6c ** 45
10 Seppukku 6c ** 57
11 Chicago Peace 6b+ ** 48
12 Clamp Down 6c+ ** 19
13 J.J.Burnell, King of the Bass 6b * 35
14 Just Another Victim 7b+ ** 1
15 Godfodder 7c+ **  
16 A Bosch Boy, a Trad and a Funky Dredd E4 6b 1
17 Winking Wall
-
E2 6a 1
18 Show of Hands 7a * 13
19 Empowerless 7a * 6
20 Community Service 7a * 6
21 Revelation Chimney VS 4c ** 28
22 Waves Become Wings 7b+ *** 8
23 Birth Pains of New Nations 7b *** 11
24 Tessellations 7b *** 86
25 Carpe Diem 7b+ ** 16
26 Total Seizure 7c *** 19
27 State of Play 7c+ ** 1
28 Solid State Logic 8a ** 3
  Tensile Groove Test Area
30 Defining Moment 7c+ *  
31 Walter's Route VD 9
32 Danglefoot HD 45
33 The Flail Trail 6a * 158
34 My New Top 6b+ 90
35 Violent Breed 7b+ ** 25
36 Elements of Abstraction 7c **  
37 Down in the Sewer 7b ** 19
38 Tensile Groove Test E4 6a ** 12
39 West of a Crave f6C *  
40 Crest of a Wave Start f6B+ **  
41 Not a Trad Route f5+ *  
42 Crest of a Wave 7b ** 9
43 Crystal Voyager 2 E4 6a *** 2
44 Star of Africa 7b+ * 1
45 Yorkshire Talk 7b+ ** 7
46 Shock to the System 7c+ ** 1
47 The Resistor 7c *  
48 Electric Circus 7b+ ** 7
49 Volts Discharge 7a * 23
50 The Undertow Traverse f7A ** 3
51 Mr.Gymnasia 7a * 31
52 Gym'n'Tonic 7b+ 1
53 Load it for Me 7b ** 11
54 Load it for Me Direct 7b+ **  
55 Deep Puddle Dynamics 7c+ * 2
56 The Garage Mechanic 7c * 1
  Becalmed / Spacewalk Area
58 Coming in a rush 7b+  
59 Fat Lip f7A * 1
60 Chasm Groove E1 5b ** 3
61 Ride the Lightning f7C+ **  
62 Double-Figure E-Grade Dreams f4+ *  
63 Monumental Effort f4+ *  
64 Drive By f7A **  
65 Juggernaut f7B ** 1
66 Jack Knife f7A+ **  
67 Techno Sketching f7A * 1
68 Puddle Jumper f6C+ * 2
69 Bob's Roof 8a *  
70 Baby-faced Assassin 7a+ * 11
71 Boongary HVS 4c * 8
72 Hip Hop HVS 5a * 3
73 German New Order 7b+ * 3
74 New Wave Slab HS 4a 1
75 Distant Early Warning E1 5c 3
76 Kool and the Gang E1 5b * 2
77 Playing With Fire 6c * 7
78 Genetix 6b * 18
79 Seratonin 7a+ * 1
80 Boiling Point 7a * 4
81 To Fever Pitch 7a+ * 2
82 Becalmed 7a+ * 3
83 Stakk Attakk E2 5c * 2
84 Geordie Pride 7a * 7
85 DWM E2 5c * 4
86 Peggy's Cove 6c+ 3
87 Zeitgeist 7a+ * 14
88 Spirits Rising 7b 6
  The Futurist Area
90 A Quantum Jump for Apekind (The Pompey Troll) E4 6a 3
91 Dafinko 7c *  
92 The Calling 7b * 2
93 Ocean of Violence E3 6a 3
94 Absolute Dissent 7a+ ** 7
95 Grossville 7a ** 48
96 Spacewalk 7b *** 53
97 Joyride
-
E2 6a 1
98 Sea Ride HVS 5a * 28
99 Hackney's Hammer HVS 5a * 28
100 Sexaphone E6 6b **  
101 Space Threshold E3 6a * 2
102 Edward's Effort (re-climbed after rock fall) E1 5b ** 1
103 All Apologies 7a+ * 11
104 Strangled in Black 7a * 14
105 Titter Ye Not Mrs! 6b+ ** 49
106 Two Tickets to the Gun Show 7a+ * 15
107 Sargasso
-
HVS 4c 1
108 Fat Necrosis E4 6b *  
109 Rise of the Robots 7b+ ** 34
110 Liquid Steel 7c ** 10
111 The Futurist 2002 7b+ ** 3
112 Event Horizon 8a+ ** 2
113 Berserka E4 6b  
114 The Shape of Roofs to Come 7b * 14
115 Ape Crap E2 6a * 1
116 War of Attrition 7c+ * 2
117 The Incredible Hulk 7c ** 5
118 Howling Stone E4 6a ** 3
119 grockles passage VS 4c * 9
  Lost routes (by Rockfall)
121 Len's Rule of the Sea E3 6a ** 8
122 Crystal Voyager E3 5c ** 9
123 Ju An Si Wei VS 5a * 1
124 Kangaroo HS 4b * 5
125 Original Route S 4b 8
126 Spray Fever E1 5a 2
127 Blitzkrieg 7b+  
128 Big Brother is Watching 7a * 7
129 Guided by Voices 7b+ * 1
130 Edward's Effort E1 5b * 12

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