UKC

Climbs 128
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces S

Freefall from the top of Freeborn Man © A. Huddart

Crag features

The climbing available at Fisherman's Ledge is undoubtedly the most diverse at Swanage and ranges from some of the UK's best deep water solos to some massive roof climbs that are tackled by both traditional and sport climbs. There is also a good number of traditional routes that are not as popular but span the grades from HVS to E7 - some being amongst the most serious pitches on the coast.

Approach notes

Park at Durlston Country Park and take the tarmac road to join the coast path close to the lighthouse. Walk west along the coast path to the stile before the mile marker pylons. Cross the fence and continue along its seaward side for 250m, to where a slight ridge descends to the cliff-top ledges above Helix and The Conger. The various areas require different approaches from here.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Descend Helix Direct not Helix! Same difficulty, one has rock at the bottom, the other water
trouserburp - 28/Jun/11
Funky Wall: nice little crag if you want to tick a handful of mid grade routes. some of the stuff is a bit eliminate though - it's surprising how small it is when you get there.
ian bryant - 08/May/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Funky Wall
2 The Strawberry that Killed the Seal 7b ** 1
3 ..and Captain Blood's Cavern E4 6a *** 60
4 Davey Jones' Lock-off E4 6a *** 52
5 DJ Bloods Mariana Variation 7b+ * 3
6 Privateer E6 6b *** 19
7 For Whom the Swell Tolls E6 6b ** 8
8 In Too Deep E3 6a * 8
9 Fathoms E3 5b *** 145
10 Feeding Neptune E6 6b * 5
11 Donald, Where's Your Trousers E2 5c * 83
12 Amazonia E3 5c ** 40
13 Amazon Emancipation E6 6b *  
14 The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic Tribes HVS 5a * 21
15 Ten Thousand Spoons E2 5c 5
16 The Friendly Ranger from Clontarf Castle E2 5c * 20
17 Telomere E1 5b * 29
18 The Talisman E6 6a * 1
19 Gorillas in the Mist E3 5c ** 13
20 Charmed Life E6 6b ** 1
  New Dawn Area
22 The Slant E3 5c *  
23 The Friendly Landlord of Durlston Castle E1 5b * 4
24 Where the Land Meets the Sea E2 5c 3
25 When Land becomes Sea E1 5b ** 3
26 New Dawn E6 6b **  
27 Double 'Ard Bastard E4 6b ** 2
28 Just as 'ard E4 6b * 1
29 StuckOn E5 6a ** 2
30 Second Helping E5 6a ** 1
31 Slideshow E7 6c *** 4
  Rufty Tufty Area (Fallen Down)
33 On the Third Day E3 5c *  
34 Break Like a Wave E4 6b *  
35 Moving Away from Rufty Tufty E5 6b *  
36 Rufty Tufty E4 6b *  
37 Rufty Tufty Vivisects His Mummy E5 6b *  
38 Hallucinating Freely E6 6b **  
39 End of the Innocence E4 6b **  
  Armed Insurgence Area
41 Tempting Truancy E4 5c ** 1
42 Terminal One E6 6a *  
43 Aubergine HVS 5a ** 22
44 Mile High Club E6 6c *  
45 Into You (Like a Train) E5 6b **  
46 Armed Insurgence E3 5c * 2
Climb name Grade
47 Pariah E6 6b *  
48 A Taste for Danger E3 6a *  
49 La Quebrada E3 6a  
50 Now or Never E4 6a **  
51 Whack your Porcupine E1 5b 3
52 Barry's Route E1 5c  
53 The Caretaker E6 6a *  
54 Ruurd Ruum E4 5c *  
  The Conger Area
56 Leap of Faith E3 5c ** 4
57 Tsunami E4 6a * 2
58 A Bridge Too Far E1 5b * 16
59 Zawn Yawn
-
VS 4c  
60 The John Williams Traverse none 6a * 29
61 Crime Wave E2 5c * 49
62 Furious Pig E2 5c * 63
63 The Great Shark Hunt E4 6a *** 66
64 A Drop in the Ocean 7b ***  
65 The Appearing E5 6a * 1
66 Red Bully E5 6a * 1
67 The Vanishing Approach Traverse 6c 20
68 The Vanishing E5 6a *** 30
69 The Conger E2 5c *** 413
70 Jellied Heel E5 6a ** 1
71 Jellied E3 5c * 45
72 Snap, Crackle and Plop E3 5c 36
73 The Drowning Pool E6 6b ** 3
74 Swordfish Trombones E5 6b *** 13
75 The Musharagi Tree E2 5c * 26
76 Halcyon Days E2 5b * 4
77 Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage E6 6b ** 13
78 Freeborn Man E4 6a *** 349
79 Freeborn Borg E5 6b 5
80 Freeborn Direct E4 6a 59
81 Troubled Waters HVS 5a ** 469
82 Helix Direct S 4a 35
83 Helix Arête HVS 5a 2
84 Helix D ** 146
  Squid Area
86 Felix VD ** 55
87 Rough Boys HVS 5b * 28
88 Bon Firé E1 5c ** 15
89 The Wey of All Men E3 6a *  
90 FAGI Code 65 E3 5c ** 4
91 Mayhem on the Terraces E3 6a ** 2
92 Quo Vadis Direct E2 5c *  
Climb name Grade
93 Paternoster E2 5c * 6
94 Bad Young Brother E4 6b **  
95 The Ritz E3 6a *** 9
96 Squid E2 5c ** 16
97 Crackers E3 5c 1
98 Mental as Anything E4 6b *  
99 Rock Around the Block
-
E2 5c 1
100 Rock Around the Block Direct E3 6a *  
101 My Wildest Dreams
-
E4 6a  
102 Sting in the Tail E4 5c **  
103 Limited Edition E3 5c ** 23
  Vigilante Area
105 Aquascrotum II HVS 5a 7
106 Slow Road to Ruin E5 6a * 1
107 Vigilante E6 6b **  
108 Sue's Route E2 5b * 14
109 Girl from the Snow Country E1 5c ** 14
110 Ringworm
-
HVS 5b  
111 All Quiet on the Southern Front E3 5c * 3
  Palace of the Brine Area
113 Impending Gleam E4 5c *** 15
114 Temple Redneck 7c+ *** 9
115 Haka Pereperu 8a *** 1
116 The Mind Cathedral E6 6b *** 3
117 Lifeforce 8b ***  
118 Palace of the Brine 8a+ *** 3
119 Drunken Butterfly 7c+ *** 1
120 Paparazzi News E6 6b **  
121 Cave Rave E5 6a ** 7
122 The Beautiful and the Damned E5 6a *  
123 D Sharp HVS 5a * 30
124 Test Department E2 5b ** 26
125 Damage Case E3 5c ** 19
126 Calcitron E2 5b ** 29
127 Stress Fracture E3 5c  
128 Rock Widow
-
HVS 5a  
129 Concubine
-
E1 5a  
130 Clever Dick
-
E1 5c  
131 Fishermans Pylon HVS 3c 5
  !!! Routes Lost to the Sea !!!
133 The Garden of Earthly Delights
-
E3 5c * 1
134 Formula 1
-
E5 6a 1
135 Jungle Formula
-
E5 6a 1
136 Jet Propulsion
-
E4 6b 1
137 Orinocoe
-
E5 6a 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999