Climbs 119
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Freefall from the top of Freeborn Man © A. Huddart

Crag features

A superb and varied area with the best deep water soloing spot in Dorset in Conner Cove. Also has one magnificent cave with several semi-sport roof climbs. Many more great trad routes all with easy access.

Approach notes

From the lighthouse walk along the coast path to the stile before the mile marker pylon. Cross the fence and continue along its seaward side for 300m, to where a slight ridge descends to the cliff-top above Helix and Freeborn Man. The various areas require different approaches from here. They are described in detail with each section. Refer also to the map opposite and the photo-topos which have the abseil points marked on them.

It is planned to give this area sound staple belays at some stage since good cliff-top belays are hard to find. There are some stakes and blocks and these are supplemented by (hard-to-spot) drilled threads near the cliff edge at regular intervals.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Descend Helix Direct not Helix! Same difficulty, one has rock at the bottom, the other water
trouserburp - 28/Jun/11
Funky Wall: nice little crag if you want to tick a handful of mid grade routes. some of the stuff is a bit eliminate though - it's surprising how small it is when you get there.
ian bryant - 08/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Funky Wall
2 The Strawberry that Killed the Seal 7b ** 1
3 ..and Captain Blood's Cavern E4 6a *** 50
4 Davey Jones' Lock-off E4 6a *** 43
5 DJ Bloods Mariana Variation 7b+ * 3
6 Privateer E6 6b *** 14
7 For Whom the Swell Tolls E6 6b ** 6
8 Fathoms E3 5b *** 135
9 In too deep E3 6a * 8
10 Feeding Neptune E6 6b * 5
11 Donald, Where's Your Trousers E2 5c * 74
12 Amazonia E3 5c ** 37
13 Amazon Emancipation E6 6b *  
14 The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic Tribes HVS 5a * 21
15 Ten Thousand Spoons E2 5c 5
16 The Friendly Ranger from Clontarf Castle E2 5c * 20
17 Telomere E1 5b * 29
18 The Talisman E6 6a * 1
19 Gorillas in the Mist E3 5c ** 13
20 Charmed Life E6 6b ** 1
  New Dawn Area
22 The Slant E3 5c *  
23 The Friendly Landlord of Durlston Castle E1 5b * 4
24 Where the Land Meets the Sea E1 5b ** 2
25 When Land Becomes Sea E2 5c 3
26 New Dawn E6 6b **  
27 Double 'Ard Bastard E4 6b ** 1
28 Just as 'ard E4 6b *  
29 StuckOn E5 6a ** 1
30 Slideshow E7 6c *** 4
  Rufty Tufty Area (Fallen Down)
32 Break Like a Wave E4 6b *  
33 Moving Away from Rufty Tufty E5 6b *  
34 Rufty Tufty E4 6b *  
35 Rufty Tufty Vivisects His Mummy E5 6b *  
36 Hallucinating Freely E6 6b **  
37 End of the Innocence E4 6b **  
  Armed Insurgence Area
39 Tempting Truancy E4 5c ** 1
40 Terminal One E6 6a *  
41 Aubergine HVS 5a ** 22
42 Mile High Club E6 6c *  
43 Into You (Like a Train) E5 6b **  
44 Armed Insurgence E3 5c * 2
45 Pariah E6 6b *  
46 A Taste for Danger E3 6a *  
47 La Quebrada E3 6a  
48 Whack your Porcupine E1 5b 3
49 Barry's Route E1 5c  
50 The Caretaker E6 6a *  
51 Ruurd Ruum E4 5c *  
  Conger Cave Area
53 Leap of Faith E3 5c ** 4
54 Tsunami E4 6a * 2
55 A Bridge Too Far E1 5b * 16
56 The John Williams Traverse none 6a * 26
  The Conger Area
58 Crime Wave E2 5c * 45
59 Furious Pig E2 5c * 61
60 The Great Shark Hunt E4 6a *** 61
61 A Drop in the ocean 7b ***  
62 The Appearing E5 6a *  
63 Red Bully E5 6a *  
64 The Vanishing Approach Traverse 6c 15
65 The Vanishing E5 6a *** 26
66 The Conger E2 5c *** 455
67 Snap, Crackle and Plop E3 5c 33
68 Jellied E3 5c * 43
69 The Drowning Pool E6 6b ** 3
70 Swordfish Trombones E5 6b *** 12
71 The Musharagi Tree E2 5c * 25
72 Halcyon Days E2 5b * 4
73 Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage E6 6b ** 11
74 Freeborn Man E4 6a *** 382
75 Freeborn Borg E5 6b 4
76 Freeborn Direct E4 6a 57
77 Troubled Waters HVS 5a ** 447
  Squid Area
79 Helix Direct S 4a 35
80 Helix Arete HVS 5a 2
81 Helix D ** 151
82 Felix VD ** 54
83 Rough Boys HVS 5b * 26
84 FAGI 65 E3 5c ** 4
85 Bon Firé E1 5c ** 15
86 The Wey of All Men E3 6a *  
87 Quo Vadis Direct E2 5c *  
88 Paternoster E2 5c * 6
89 Bad Young Brother E4 6b **  
90 The Ritz E3 6a *** 9
91 Squid E2 5c ** 16
92 Crackers E3 5c 1
93 Mental as Anything E4 6b *  
94 Rock around the Block
-
E2 5c 1
95 Rock Around the Block Direct E3 6a *  
96 Sting in the Tail E4 5c **  
97 Limited Edition E3 5c ** 21
  Vigilante Area
99 Aquascrotum II HVS 5a 6
100 Slow Road to Ruin E5 6a * 1
101 Vigilante E6 6b **  
102 Sue's Route E2 5b * 11
103 Girl from the Snow Country E1 5c ** 13
104 All Quiet on the Southern Front E3 5c * 3
  Palace of the Brine Area
106 Impending Gleam E4 5c *** 15
107 Temple Redneck 7c+ *** 6
108 Haka Pereperu 8a *** 1
109 The Mind Cathedral E6 6b *** 2
110 Lifeforce 8b ***  
111 Palace of the Brine 8a+ *** 3
112 Drunken Butterfly 7c+ *** 1
113 Paparazzi News E6 6b **  
114 Cave Rave E5 6a ** 7
115 The Beautiful and the Damned E5 6a *  
116 D Sharp HVS 5a * 29
117 Test Department E2 5b ** 25
118 Damage Case E3 5c ** 19
119 Calcitron E2 5b ** 29
120 Stress Fracture E3 5c  
121 Fishermans Pylon HVS 3c 5
  !!! Routes Lost to the Sea !!!
123 On the Third Day E3 5c *  
124 The Garden of Earthly Delights
-
E3 5c * 1
125 Mayhem on the Terraces
-
E3 6a ** 2
126 Formula 1
-
E5 6a 1
127 Jungle Formula
-
E5 6a 1
128 Jet Propulsion
-
E4 6b 1
129 Orinocoe
-
E5 6a 1

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