Climbs 119
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Freefall from the top of Freeborn Man © A. Huddart

Crag features

A superb and varied area with the best deep water soloing spot in Dorset in Conner Cove. Also has one magnificent cave with several semi-sport roof climbs. Many more great trad routes all with easy access.

Approach notes

From the lighthouse walk along the coast path to the stile before the mile marker pylon. Cross the fence and continue along its seaward side for 300m, to where a slight ridge descends to the cliff-top above Helix and Freeborn Man. The various areas require different approaches from here. They are described in detail with each section. Refer also to the map opposite and the photo-topos which have the abseil points marked on them.

It is planned to give this area sound staple belays at some stage since good cliff-top belays are hard to find. There are some stakes and blocks and these are supplemented by (hard-to-spot) drilled threads near the cliff edge at regular intervals.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Descend Helix Direct not Helix! Same difficulty, one has rock at the bottom, the other water
trouserburp - 28/Jun/11
Funky Wall: nice little crag if you want to tick a handful of mid grade routes. some of the stuff is a bit eliminate though - it's surprising how small it is when you get there.
ian bryant - 08/May/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Funky Wall 
2The Strawberry that Killed the Seal7b **1
3..and Captain Blood's CavernE4 6a ***54
4Davey Jones' Lock-offE4 6a ***45
5DJ Bloods Mariana Variation7b+ *3
6PrivateerE6 6b ***15
7For Whom the Swell TollsE6 6b **6
8FathomsE3 5b ***134
9In too deepE3 6a *8
10Feeding NeptuneE6 6b *5
11Donald, Where's Your TrousersE2 5c *76
12AmazoniaE3 5c **39
13Amazon EmancipationE6 6b * 
14The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic TribesHVS 5a *24
15Ten Thousand SpoonsE2 5c 5
16The Friendly Ranger from Clontarf CastleE2 5c *20
17TelomereE1 5b *29
18The TalismanE6 6a *1
19Gorillas in the MistE3 5c **13
20Charmed LifeE6 6b **1
 New Dawn Area 
22The SlantE3 5c * 
23The Friendly Landlord of Durlston CastleE1 5b *4
24Where the Land Meets the SeaE1 5b **2
25When Land Becomes SeaE2 5c 3
26New DawnE6 6b ** 
27Double 'Ard BastardE4 6b **1
28Just as 'ardE4 6b * 
29StuckOnE5 6a **1
30SlideshowE7 6c ***6
 Rufty Tufty Area (Fallen Down) 
32Break Like a WaveE4 6b * 
33Moving Away from Rufty TuftyE5 6b * 
34Rufty TuftyE4 6b * 
35Rufty Tufty Vivisects His MummyE5 6b * 
36Hallucinating FreelyE6 6b ** 
37End of the InnocenceE4 6b ** 
 Armed Insurgence Area 
39Tempting TruancyE4 5c **1
40Terminal OneE6 6a * 
41AubergineHVS 5a **22
42Mile High ClubE6 6c * 
43Into You (Like a Train)E5 6b ** 
44Armed InsurgenceE3 5c *2
45PariahE6 6b * 
46A Taste for DangerE3 6a * 
47La QuebradaE3 6a  
48Whack your PorcupineE1 5b 3
49Barry's RouteE1 5c  
50The CaretakerE6 6a * 
51Ruurd RuumE4 5c * 
 Conger Cave Area 
53Leap of FaithE3 5c **4
54TsunamiE4 6a *2
55A Bridge Too FarE1 5b *16
56The John Williams Traversenone 6a *26
 The Conger Area 
58Crime WaveE2 5c *45
59Furious PigE2 5c *60
60The Great Shark HuntE4 6a ***60
61A Drop in the ocean7b *** 
62The AppearingE5 6a * 
63Red BullyE5 6a * 
64The Vanishing Approach Traverse6c 16
65The VanishingE5 6a ***36
66The CongerE2 5c ***435
67Snap, Crackle and PlopE3 5c 33
68JelliedE3 5c *44
69The Drowning PoolE6 6b **3
70Swordfish TrombonesE5 6b ***15
71The Musharagi TreeE2 5c *25
72Halcyon DaysE2 5b *4
73Herman Borg's Basic Pulley SlippageE6 6b **11
74Freeborn ManE4 6a ***373
75Freeborn BorgE5 6b 4
76Freeborn DirectE4 6a 56
77Troubled WatersHVS 5a **436
 Squid Area 
79Helix DirectS 4a 31
80Helix AreteHVS 5a 2
81HelixD **145
82FelixVD **63
83Rough BoysHVS 5b *28
84FAGI 65E3 5c **4
85Bon FiréE1 5c **15
86The Wey of All MenE3 6a * 
87Quo Vadis DirectE2 5c * 
88PaternosterE2 5c *6
89Bad Young BrotherE4 6b ** 
90The RitzE3 6a ***9
91SquidE2 5c **16
92CrackersE3 5c 1
93Mental as AnythingE4 6b * 
94Rock around the Block
E2 5c 1
95Rock Around the Block DirectE3 6a * 
96Sting in the TailE4 5c ** 
97Limited EditionE3 5c **21
 Vigilante Area 
99Aquascrotum IIHVS 5a 6
100Slow Road to RuinE5 6a *1
101VigilanteE6 6b ** 
102Sue's RouteE2 5b *11
103Girl from the Snow CountryE1 5c **13
104All Quiet on the Southern FrontE3 5c *3
 Palace of the Brine Area 
106Impending GleamE4 5c ***15
107Temple Redneck7c+ ***13
108Haka Pereperu8a ***1
109The Mind CathedralE6 6b ***2
110Lifeforce8b *** 
111Palace of the Brine8a+ ***3
112Drunken Butterfly7c+ ***1
113Paparazzi NewsE6 6b ** 
114Cave RaveE5 6a **7
115The Beautiful and the DamnedE5 6a * 
116D SharpHVS 5a *31
117Test DepartmentE2 5b **25
118Damage CaseE3 5c **19
119CalcitronE2 5b **28
120Stress FractureE3 5c  
121Fishermans PylonHVS 3c 5
 !!! Routes Lost to the Sea !!! 
123 On the Third DayE3 5c * 
124 The Garden of Earthly Delights
E3 5c *1
125 Mayhem on the Terraces
E3 6a **2
126 Formula 1
E5 6a 1
127 Jungle Formula
E5 6a 1
128 Jet Propulsion
E4 6b 1
129 Orinocoe
E5 6a 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999