Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Crux on Polaris - Davey H © clipskipper

Crag features

Another varied area with a huge and spectacular cave home to the most impressive routes in Dorset. Also a sport quarry (in need of re-gearing) and trad wall with some good hard routes. Long walk in. No climbing 1 March to 31 July because of nesting birds on Polaris Area and the Great Cave.

Approach notes

The quickest approach is from the Durlston Country Park parking. Walk down past the lighthouse and turn right (looking out) along the coast path, past the mile pylons and around a wide bay crossing over two stone walls. 200m past the second stone wall locate a hidden descent ramp leading down to the left (looking out) side of the quarry.

Access Advice

Note: Part of the large flake at the top of Zig Zag (Severe) has collapsed and is reported to be in an unstable condition - please take care.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Polaris Area 
2Frank's Little SecretE1 5b *2
3PolarisE5 6a ***12
4Exchange of FireE5 6a * 
5NukeE4 6a * 
6Bolt the Blue SeaE5 6b * 
7Weapons of SoundE5 6a  
8Enter the VoidE6 6b ** 
9The Aquatic ApeE6 6b ***1
 The Great Cave 
11The Schwarzechild Radius7c+ *** 
12Laughing ArthurE8 6b ***1
13Forever Laughing7c+ ***2
14Coma 2E5 6b  
15Endeavour8c ***1
16Infinite Gravity8a+ ***13
17Naked and SavageE7 6b *** 
18Procrastinating GiantE6 6a ***1
19Monsters of RockE7 6b *** 
20GiantslayerE5 6a **7
21Cold Empty GunE6 6a *1
22CoercriE4 6a *6
E3 5b *2
24Forn wall
E1 3
25Cosa NostraE2 5c *4
 The Quarry 
E1 5b 2
HVS 4c 1
29Bill's Route
HS 4b 2
30Freedom Fighter7a * 
31Crack Gang Killing7b * 
32Roof Supreme7b+ ** 
33Sunyata7b **1
34The Energy, the Faith, the Devotion7c+ ** 
35Plasma Stream7c **1
36The Nolans Meet Impulse Manslaughter7a+ *5
37Swimming in JugsE3 5c *6
38Stress Analysis of a Strapless Evening Gown
E2 5b 1
39Les Hommes en NoirE3 5c  
40Black September
E2 5b 1
 Zig-Zag Area 
42Zig-ZagVS 4c 79
43Straight LinesHVS 5b **6
44Parallel LinesHVS 5a *10
45Credit in the Straight WorldE4 6a *1
46Absence Makes the Heart...E3 6a *3
47Street Fighting YearsE7 6c *** 
48It Sank the Ship, Now Eat the Lettuce
E1 5b 1
49Full CircleE7 6c ** 
50A Dose of the MalhamsE6 6b * 
51Sport Free World!E3 5c *2
52Rufty's Roll UpE1 5b **32
53Mr Fantastic Totally StroptasticHVS 5b *10
54Tobacco RoadVS 4c **67
55The Vapour EdgeE1 5b **13
56Parsons PleasureVS 4c *16
57SnoutE1 5b *1
58HavanaE4 6b **1
59The EqualizerE6 6b ** 
60CentrepieceE5 6c ** 
61Not Forgotten, No Fade AwayE5 6b ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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