UKC

Climbs 83
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces S

Crux on Polaris - Davey H © clipskipper

Crag features

Blackers Hole contains some of the greatest challenges available to climbers along Britain's south coast, and for most, the view of the Great Cave's twenty five metre roof comes as a shock to the system on first acquaintance. This vast cavern provides the setting for cutting edge routes such as Infinite Gravity and Endeavour. Further east the cave gives way to slightly less-steep territory on its left-hand side, but the base changes from boulders to sea, making access difficult and the climbs even more adventurous. It is here that a number of long and difficult trad adventures wend their way, with the likes of Polaris and The Aquatic Ape being amongst Swanage's most serious undertakings. However, there is more on offer here, in the shape of roof-based sport routes in the quarry, and some secluded (though accessible) trad routes on the shorter walls to the east of the Great Cave.

Approach notes

The shortest approach is from the Durlston car park (fee). Walk west past the lighthouse and turn right (looking out) on to the coast path. Pass the distinctive mile pylons and continue around a wide bay, crossing over two stone walls. 200m past the second stone wall, locate a hidden descent ramp leading down to the left (looking out) side of the quarry.

Access Advice

Note: Part of the large flake at the top of Zig Zag (Severe) has collapsed and is reported to be in an unstable condition - please take care.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
This crag around Tobacco Road is an accident waiting to happen. The top out is dangerously loose. Belayers beware.
Pero - 15/Oct/17
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Polaris Area
2 Aboriginal Script
-
E5 6b  
3 Dreamtime
-
E2 5b  
4 I am Stone
-
E2 5c  
5 Melancholia
-
E2 5b  
6 Another Youth Explodes
-
E3 6b  
7 Whispers Deep
-
E2 5c  
8 True Nature's Son
-
E4 6a  
9 Loneshark
-
E4 6a  
10 Supergrass
-
E4 6b  
11 Frank's Little Secret
-
HVS 4c  
12 Frank's Little Secret E1 5b * 2
13 Polaris E5 6a *** 14
14 Ruptured Raspberry
-
E1 5a  
15 Exchange of Fire E5 6a *  
16 Nuke E4 6a *  
17 Bolt the Blue Sea E5 6b *  
18 Weapons of Sound E5 6a  
19 Enter the Void E6 6b **  
20 The Aquatic Ape E6 6b *** 1
  The Great Cave
22 The Schwarzechild Radius 7c+ ***  
23 Laughing Arthur E8 6b *** 1
24 Forever Laughing 7c+ *** 2
25 Coma 2 E5 6b  
26 Endeavour 8c *** 1
27 Infinite Gravity 8a+ *** 21
28 Naked and Savage E7 6b ***  
29 Procrastinating Giant E6 6a *** 1
30 Monsters of Rock E7 6b ***  
Climb name Grade
31 Giantslayer E5 6a ** 10
32 Cold Empty Gun E6 6a * 1
33 Coercri E4 6a * 8
34 Cosa Nostra E2 5c * 9
35 Frontiersman
-
E4 5c * 2
36 Forn Wall
-
HVS 5a 3
  The Quarry
38 Triaxiality
-
E1 5b 2
39 Flyover
-
HVS 4c 1
40 Bill's Route
-
HS 4b 2
41 Overhang Start
-
E1 5b  
42 Steep
-
VS 4c  
43 Freedom Fighter 7a *  
44 Crack Gang Killing 7b *  
45 Roof Supreme 7b+ **  
46 Sunyata 7b ** 1
47 The Energy, the Faith, the Devotion 7c+ **  
48 Plasma Stream 7c ** 1
49 The Nolans Meet Impulse Manslaughter 7a+ * 5
50 Swimming in Jugs E3 5c * 6
51 Stress Analysis of a Strapless Evening Gown
-
E2 5b 1
52 Les Hommes en Noir E3 5c  
53 Black September
-
E2 5b 1
  Zig-Zag Area
55 Zig-Zag VS 4c 77
56 Parallel Lines HVS 5a * 10
57 Straight Lines HVS 5b ** 6
58 Luxury Liner E2 5c  
59 Credit in the Straight World E4 6a * 1
60 Absence Makes the Heart... E3 6a * 3
Climb name Grade
61 Street Fighting Years E7 6c ***  
62 Full Circle E7 6c **  
63 It Sank the Ship, Now Eat the Lettuce
-
E1 5b 1
64 A Dose of the Malhams E6 6b *  
65 Sport Free World! E3 5c * 2
66 Talus HVS 4c  
67 Cheroot
-
VS 4c  
68 Mr Fantastic Totally Stroptastic HVS 5b * 11
69 Rufty's Roll Up E1 5b ** 35
70 Tobacco Road VS 4c ** 70
71 The Vapour Edge E1 5b ** 15
72 Parsons Pleasure VS 4c * 16
73 Snout E1 5b * 1
74 Havana E4 6b ** 4
75 Buttend HVS 5a  
76 Once It's Gotcha
-
E5 6b  
77 Harlot
-
VS 4b  
78 The Equalizer E6 6b **  
79 Centrepiece E5 6c **  
80 Not Forgotten, No Fade Away E5 6b **  
81 Southern Belle
-
E5 6b  
  Blackers Far East
83 Made in Britain
-
E4 6b  
84 Friends of the Earth
-
HS 4a  
85 The Garden of Earthly Delights E3 5c  
86 Decayed
-
E2 5b  
87 The Law
-
E3 5c *  
88 Inspector Clouseau
-
E4 6a  

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