Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces S

Crux on Polaris - Davey H © clipskipper

Crag features

Another varied area with a huge and spectacular cave home to the most impressive routes in Dorset. Also a sport quarry (in need of re-gearing) and trad wall with some good hard routes. Long walk in. No climbing 1 March to 31 July because of nesting birds on Polaris Area and the Great Cave.

Approach notes

The quickest approach is from the Durlston Country Park parking. Walk down past the lighthouse and turn right (looking out) along the coast path, past the mile pylons and around a wide bay crossing over two stone walls. 200m past the second stone wall locate a hidden descent ramp leading down to the left (looking out) side of the quarry.

Access Advice

Note: Part of the large flake at the top of Zig Zag (Severe) has collapsed and is reported to be in an unstable condition - please take care.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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This crag around Tobacco Road is an accident waiting to happen. The top out is dangerously loose. Belayers beware.
Pero - 15/Oct/17
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Polaris Area
2 Frank's Little Secret E1 5b * 2
3 Polaris E5 6a *** 22
4 Exchange of Fire E5 6a *  
5 Nuke E4 6a *  
6 Bolt the Blue Sea E5 6b *  
7 Weapons of Sound E5 6a  
8 Enter the Void E6 6b **  
9 The Aquatic Ape E6 6b *** 1
  The Great Cave
11 The Schwarzechild Radius 7c+ ***  
12 Laughing Arthur E8 6b *** 1
13 Forever Laughing 7c+ *** 2
14 Coma 2 E5 6b  
15 Endeavour 8c *** 1
16 Infinite Gravity 8a+ *** 64
17 Naked and Savage E7 6b ***  
18 Procrastinating Giant E6 6a *** 1
19 Monsters of Rock E7 6b ***  
20 Giantslayer E5 6a ** 11
21 Cold Empty Gun E6 6a * 1
22 Coercri E4 6a * 8
23 Frontiersman
E3 5b * 2
24 Forn wall
E1 3
25 Cosa Nostra E2 5c * 9
  The Quarry
27 Triaxiality
E1 5b 2
28 Flyover
HVS 4c 1
29 Bill's Route
HS 4b 2
30 Freedom Fighter 7a *  
31 Crack Gang Killing 7b *  
32 Roof Supreme 7b+ **  
33 Sunyata 7b ** 1
34 The Energy, the Faith, the Devotion 7c+ **  
35 Plasma Stream 7c ** 1
36 The Nolans Meet Impulse Manslaughter 7a+ * 5
37 Swimming in Jugs E3 5c * 6
38 Stress Analysis of a Strapless Evening Gown
E2 5b 1
39 Les Hommes en Noir E3 5c  
40 Black September
E2 5b 1
  Zig-Zag Area
42 Zig-Zag VS 4c 82
43 Straight Lines HVS 5b ** 6
44 Parallel Lines HVS 5a * 10
45 Credit in the Straight World E4 6a * 1
46 Absence Makes the Heart... E3 6a * 3
47 Street Fighting Years E7 6c ***  
48 It Sank the Ship, Now Eat the Lettuce
E1 5b 1
49 Full Circle E7 6c **  
50 A Dose of the Malhams E6 6b *  
51 Sport Free World! E3 5c * 2
52 Rufty's Roll Up E1 5b ** 33
53 Mr Fantastic Totally Stroptastic HVS 5b * 10
54 Tobacco Road VS 4c ** 66
55 The Vapour Edge E1 5b ** 14
56 Parsons Pleasure VS 4c * 16
57 Snout E1 5b * 1
58 Havana E4 6b ** 3
59 The Equalizer E6 6b **  
60 Centrepiece E5 6c **  
61 Not Forgotten, No Fade Away E5 6b **  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999