Climbs 26
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Mind that hold © Betajunkie

Crag features

Steep limestone wall with with a variety of hold types holds can be quite rough. Some technical problems some powerful and a hard left to right traverse of the buttress. Plenty of linkups to go at. Problems from 5+ to 8A. The ledge is out on all problems bar one.

Warning: The top hold for the problems Used for Glue and the Shield is very hollow and is in risk of being pulled off. It is a big hold be careful. It can be done static for someone of shorter height. No wild moves.

Please read the access notes.

Approach notes

Park on the road by Wentbridge house. Walk up Jackson lane past the church then a house on you’re right where a footpath appears on you’re left. From here the crag comes into view. The large buttress has lots of easy warmups and traverses the main show is down the far left hand side. Be respectful and don’t walk through the church grounds, stick to footpaths and keep the noise to a minimum. Small groups advised.

Restricted Access

In order to maintain access, climbers should keep a low profile here:

  • Keep noise to a minimum
  • Pick up any litter
  • Be respectful - don’t walk through the church grounds
  • Keep to footpaths
  • Keep group size small

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Eliminates and Link-ups
2 Arete Eliminate f6B 17
3 Church Dyno f7A * 3
4 Double Standards f7C ** 6
5 Standard Hook-ups f7C * 2
6 Hook-ups and Link-ups f7B ** 6
7 Hook-ups and Link-ups sit start f7C+ ***  
8 Pinch Hitter Right Hand f7B+ * 1
9 Crackpock f6B+ 4
10 Gulivers Returns f7C+ *** 3
Climb name Grade
11 High Traverse f7A+ 1
  Adrian Ledgeway’s Wall
13 The Arete f6A 34
14 The Arete sit start f6B * 24
15 Used for Glue f7A * 36
16 Used for Glue sit start f7A+ * 17
17 The Shield f7B ** 19
18 The Shield sit start f7C+ ** 5
19 The Shield Right Hand f7A+ ** 28
20 The Shield Right Hand sit start f7C *** 3
Climb name Grade
21 Pinch Hitter f7B * 8
22 Pinch Hitter sit start
-
f7B+ ** 2
23 Gulivers Travels f7B+ *** 11
24 Gulivers Travels sit start f7C *** 5
25 The Pockets f7A+ 26
26 The Pockets sit start f7B+ 4
27 The Crack f4+ 13
28 Sound of the sun f8A ***  

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