Climbs 178
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

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Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

Dancing Ledge is one of the most important areas at Swanage for sport climbers. The quality and variety of routes is good and virtually all are fully bolted with solid resin staples. The quarry routes are mostly very solid and friendly outings, whilst the sea-level cave routes are intimidating, often committing and strenuous, though the rock and atmosphere are excellent. The picturesque setting makes this a great summer spot for picnicking and swimming.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. From just outside Swanage town, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down the road (on a track for the last 150m) just beyond Langton House. From the parking, walk south on a good path/track to Spyway Barn. Continue through two fields until the cliff-top path is reached. Head down the big hill (via stone steps) towards Dancing Ledge, which lies directly below the coast path. Steps lead down into the quarry.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage (2015)

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Quarry - Left
2 More Brutal f6C 4
3 Freedance f7A+ ** 22
4 A Brutal Equation 7a * 70
5 A Brutal Equation Start f6B+ ** 9
6 A Brutal Skinhead f6B+ * 5
7 Shinhead Clash 6b+ * 186
8 Skinhead Clash Start f4+ * 15
9 Stuck Between a Skinhead and an Idiot f6C ** 5
10 Idiot Joy Showland 6c+ * 90
11 Idiot Joy Showland Start f6B+ * 14
12 Sugar Ray 7a+ ** 83
13 Sugar Ray Start f6A * 11
14 Names is for Tombstones, Baby 7a * 48
15 Names is for Tombstones, Baby Direct Start f5+ * 9
16 Juggy Traverse f6A * 10
17 Monorail f7A * 2
18 Traffic 6a 33
19 Smut & Violence 6a 31
20 Custodian 6a+ 32
21 Saskia 5c * 30
22 Transparent Birthday Suit 5c 452
23 WAF 6a * 20
24 Commander Cody and the Lost Planet Airmen E1 5c 21
25 Ideal World 6a+ * 241
26 Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues 6b * 195
27 Ozark Mountain Daredevils 6a+ * 329
28 The Trade Route 5a 120
29 B4 Destruction 6b+ * 155
30 Date with a Frog 6a * 562
31 Indian Rope Trick 7b+ * 2
32 Fear of a Black Planet 7a * 69
33 Today Forever 7a+ * 20
  The Quarry - Centre
35 Chicago Pipe Dreaming 6a * 407
36 Borra Ring 5c * 637
37 Perpetual State of Confusion 6b+ * 142
38 Hiccup 6c 50
39 Empty Promises 6a 361
40 All Fall Down 6a+ * 419
41 Carol's Little Injection 6a 333
42 Slopin' and Hopin' 6b+ ** 222
43 Someday 7a * 20
44 Mr. Choo Choo 7a ** 235
45 Stay Balanced 7a * 14
46 Seven Year's Solitary 7a+ * 32
47 Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion 7b * 29
48 Disco's Out, Murder's In 6c+ * 63
49 Daylight Robbery 6c ** 181
50 Double or Quits 7a+ ** 74
51 Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven 6b+ ** 456
52 The Honey Monster 6c 34
53 The War of the Wardens 5c 357
54 You'll Pay For It 5c * 20
55 Positive Action 6a * 19
  The Quarry - Right
57 Fred Roberts 6b * 11
58 Negative Creep 6b+ * 89
59 1937 Direct 6c * 3
60 Slap, Bang on a Hang 6c 59
61 Corona Envelope 7b+ * 24
62 Corona Connection 7b+ * 4
63 Prophets of Rage 7b ** 97
Climb name Grade
64 Haunted by a Million Screams 6c+ ** 159
65 The Ghost of Ian Curtis 7c+ * 2
66 Atrocity Exhibition 7a+ * 44
67 The Wonders of Wallkraft 7a ** 102
68 Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ ** 45
69 Extremely Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ * 2
70 Slim Fast Motel 7c *** 1
71 Seriously Slim Fast Motel 7c *** 1
72 Day of the Lords 7a 19
73 Minimum Maximum 7b+ * 2
74 Ken Wilson's Last Stand 7a * 47
75 With or Without You 6a+ * 179
76 Cold Steal 6b 72
77 John Craven's Willy Warmer 5c * 489
78 Taylor-made Tracking Damage 6c+ 78
79 Alienation 7a 13
80 A Sea Without Water 6c * 35
81 Fire-Fox 5b 56
82 Option B 6c+ 18
83 Eye am the Sky 7a+ * 11
  Graveyard Area
85 Birth, School, Work, Death
-
V4 12
86 This Should Move Ya! 7a 1
87 Corridors of Power 7a+ * 3
88 Mariner's Graveyard 7a+ *** 18
89 The Pump Will Tear Us Apart 7a+ ** 3
90 Lucretia, My Reflection 6c ** 21
91 F.Y.B. 6c * 12
92 Here Comes the Hezbollah 6b+ 24
93 Mr. Fantastic 4c S0 3
  Bust Ya Boiler
95 Slave to the Cave 7b *** 8
96 Hell's Darker Chambers 7c+ *** 1
97 Legendary Shadows 7c+ ** 1
98 Bust Ya' Boiler 7b+ ** 5
99 Mucho Gusto! 7b * 5
100 Escape Route
-
D 2
101 Hard Act to Follow 6c * 15
102 Dancing Fool 7a * 11
103 Mariana's Trenchcoat 6b+ * 23
104 Coprophobia 6b+ * 22
  Lower Tier Routes
106 Piss Traverse XS * 4
107 West Corner S 21
108 First Roped Climb
-
D 39
109 Delta VS 17
110 Beta
-
VD 43
111 Alpha S 23
112 Second Best
-
VS 40
113 Blimey
-
VS 41
114 Richard's Recess M 10
115 Richard's Slant
-
VS 6
116 Richard's Direct MVS 4b 9
117 The Prow VS 4c * 5
118 Squeeze Chimney M * 8
119 Omicron D 11
120 Pi MS 11
121 Rho VS 10
122 Sigma S 11
123 Tau S 9
124 Upsilon D * 14
125 Phi VD 11
126 Chi D 12
Climb name Grade
127 Psi D 10
128 Omega D * 17
  Lower Tier - Left - Bouldering
130 Crump f5+ * 9
131 Memphis Jookin f6A * 6
132 Krumping f6B+ ** 6
133 Harlem Shake f6B+ ** 6
134 C-Walk f6B ** 8
135 Snap Dance f5+ * 11
136 Locking f5 * 14
137 Popping f5 * 14
138 Breaking f4+ * 15
139 Liquids and Digits f3 * 19
140 G-Walk f4 * 18
  Mexican Wave Area
142 Whipping Boy 7a 40
143 Whipping Wave 7a+ *  
144 Seismic Shift 7b+ *** 3
145 Mexican Wave 7a+ * 78
146 Metachronal Rhythm 7a+ ** 4
147 Disarmed Left-hand Start 7b  
148 Disarmed and Non-Dangerous 7b ** 14
149 Armed and Dangerous 7b+ 7
150 A Short Story About Power 7b * 38
151 Circus Beach 7b+ * 3
152 The Ringmaster 7c ** 1
153 One Finger Trapeze 7c+ *  
154 Bull Power 7a+ *  
155 Shifting Sands 6c+ *  
156 Bull Shift 6b+ * 1
  Lower Tier - Right - Bouldering
158 Mexican Wave Traverse f5+ * 11
159 Juggy Traverse f4+ ** 9
160 Weightless f7A+ ** 4
161 Ceilidh f5+ * 5
162 Fandango f6A 5
163 Pasodoble f5+ 6
164 Minuet f6A * 5
165 Polka f5 6
166 Humppa f5+ * 8
167 Troika f4+ 7
168 Bhangra f4 10
169 Tarantella f4+ 5
170 Jenkka f5 5
171 Schuhplattler f6A * 5
172 Low Lip Traverse f6B+ * 5
173 Clog f6A * 5
174 Morris f3 12
175 Sardana f5+ * 7
176 Chacarera f6A * 5
177 Carnavalito f6B 5
178 Last Dance f6A+ * 5
  Hieronymous GBH Area
180 Now and Always 6c+ ** 18
181 Lover's Leap 7a+ * 6
182 Born Again 6b+ ** 109
183 Hieronymous GBH 6c+ 24
184 Dante's Inferno 7a+ * 4
185 Sea of Holes 6b * 6
186 Song to the Siren 7a+ **  
187 White Rave 7a+ *** 10
188 Ten-K-Rig E4 6a  

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