Climbs 148
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners. Some bouldering areas. Much of the crag is polished and several 5s and 6s are a higher grade do to the polished holds.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path. From here steps lead down into the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Quarry - Left 
2This Should Move Ya!7a 1
3A Brutal Equation7a *59
4Shinhead Clash6b+ *150
5Idiot Joy Showland6c+ *72
6Sugar Ray7a+ **69
7Names is for Tombstones, Baby7a *39
8Looking in traffic6a 13
9Smut & Violence6a 10
10Custodian6a+ 9
11Transparent Birthday Suit5c 341
12Commander Cody and the Lost Planet AirmenE1 5c 17
13Ideal World6a+ *194
14Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues6b *134
15Ozark Mountain Daredevils6a+ *269
16Rock Eating BirdieE1 5b **3
17The Trade Route5a 30
18B4 Destruction6b+ *112
19Date with a Frog6a *433
20Indian Rope Trick7b+ *1
21Fear of a Black Planet7a *60
22Today Forever7a+ *19
 The Quarry - Bouldering 
24Birth, School, Work, Death
-
V4 10
25More Brutalf6C 2
26Freedancef7A+ **23
27A Brutal Equation Startf6B+ **7
28A Brutal Skinheadf6B+ *3
29Skinhead Clash Startf4+ *7
30Stuck Between a Skinhead and an Idiotf6C **2
31Idiot Joy Showland Startf6B+ *10
32Sugar Ray Startf6A *9
33Names is for Tombstones, Baby Direct Startf5+ *6
34Juggy Traversef6A *5
35Monorailf7A *1
 The Quarry - Centre 
37Chicago Pipe Dreaming6a *336
38Borra Ring5c *507
39Perpetual State of Confusion6b+ *122
40Hiccup6c 42
41Empty Promises6a 276
42All Fall Down6a+ *315
43Carol's Little Injection6a 266
44Slopin' and Hopin'6b+ **163
45Whittlin' on a piece of wood7a *8
46Mr. Choo Choo7a **172
47Harmonica7a *6
48Seven Year's Solitary7a+ *23
49Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion7b *20
50Disco's Out, Murder's In6c+ *52
51Daylight Robbery6c **124
52Double or Quits7a+ **67
53Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven6b+ **367
107Krumpingf6B+ **3
108Harlem Shakef6B+ **3
109C-Walkf6B **5
110Snap Dancef5+ *7
111Lockingf5 *7
112Poppingf5 *8
113Breakingf4+ *6
114Liquids and Digitsf3 *9
115G-Walkf4 *7
 Mexican Wave Area 
117Mexican Wave Traversef5+ *5
118Whipping Boy7a 41
119Seismic Shift7b+ ***2
120Mexican Wave7a+ *77
121Metachronal Rhythm7a+ **3
122Armed and Dangerous7b+ 8
123A Short Story About Power7b *33
124Circus Beach7b+ *3
125The Ringmaster7c **1
126One Finger Trapeze7c+ * 
 Lower Tier - Right - Bouldering 
128Juggy Traversef4+ **5
129Weightlessf7A+ **2
130Ceilidhf5+ *3
131Fandangof6A 3
132Pasodoblef5+ 4
133Minuetf6A *4
134Polkaf5 4
135Humppaf5+ *5
136Troikaf4+ 5
137Bhangraf4 7
138Tarantellaf4+ 4
139Jenkkaf5 4
140Schuhplattlerf6A *4
141Low Lip Traversef6B+ *4
142Clogf6A *4
143Morrisf3 8
144Sardanaf5+ *4
145Chacareraf6A *4
146Carnavalitof6B 4
147Last Dancef6A+ *4
 Hieronymous GBH Area 
149Now and Always6c+ **13
150Lover's Leap7a+ *6
151Born Again6b+ **93
152Hieronymous GBH6c+ 19
153Dante's Inferno7a+ *4
154Sea of Holes6b *4
155Song to the Siren7a+ ** 
156White Rave7a+ ***2
157Ten-K-RigE4 6a  
158Absent FriendE4 6b 2

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