UKC

Climbs 162
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners. Some bouldering areas. Much of the crag is polished and several 5s and 6s are a higher grade due to the polished holds.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The National Trust car park (pay and display) is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path. From here steps lead down into the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Quarry - Left
2 This Should Move Ya! 7a 1
3 A Brutal Equation 7a * 56
4 Shinhead Clash 6b+ * 162
5 Idiot Joy Showland 6c+ * 75
6 Sugar Ray 7a+ ** 70
7 Names is for Tombstones, Baby 7a * 40
8 Looking in traffic 6a 24
9 Smut & Violence 6a 17
10 Custodian 6a+ 20
11 Transparent Birthday Suit 5c 359
12 Commander Cody and the Lost Planet Airmen E1 5c 20
13 Ideal World 6a+ * 206
14 Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues 6b * 144
15 Ozark Mountain Daredevils 6a+ * 284
16 Rock Eating Birdie E1 5b ** 4
17 The Trade Route 5a 63
18 B4 Destruction 6b+ * 122
19 Date with a Frog 6a * 460
20 Indian Rope Trick 7b+ * 1
21 Fear of a Black Planet 7a * 66
22 Today Forever 7a+ * 17
23 The Constant Gardiner * 5c * 3
  The Quarry - Bouldering
25 Birth, School, Work, Death
-
V4 10
26 More Brutal f6C 2
27 Freedance f7A+ ** 23
28 A Brutal Equation Start f6B+ ** 8
29 A Brutal Skinhead f6B+ * 3
30 Skinhead Clash Start f4+ * 7
31 Stuck Between a Skinhead and an Idiot f6C ** 3
32 Idiot Joy Showland Start f6B+ * 10
33 Sugar Ray Start f6A * 9
34 Names is for Tombstones, Baby Direct Start f5+ * 6
35 Juggy Traverse f6A * 7
36 Monorail f7A * 1
  The Quarry - Centre
38 Chicago Pipe Dreaming 6a * 350
39 Borra Ring 5c * 530
40 Perpetual State of Confusion 6b+ * 123
41 Hiccup 6c 41
42 Empty Promises 6a 293
43 All Fall Down 6a+ * 335
44 Carol's Little Injection 6a 281
45 Slopin' and Hopin' 6b+ ** 172
46 Someday 7a * 11
47 Mr. Choo Choo 7a ** 174
48 Stay Balanced 7a * 11
49 Seven Year's Solitary 7a+ * 24
50 Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion 7b * 25
51 Disco's Out, Murder's In 6c+ * 56
52 Daylight Robbery 6c ** 135
53 Double or Quits 7a+ ** 63
54 Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven 6b+ ** 383
55 The Honey Monster 6c 29
56 The War of the Wardens 5c 294
57 You'll Pay For It 5c * 9
58 Positive Action 6a * 9
Climb name Grade
59 1937 Direct * 6c * 1
60 Fred Roberts * 6b * 2
  The Quarry - Right
62 Negative Creep 6b+ * 80
63 Slap, Bang on a Hang 6c 48
64 Corona Envelope 7b+ * 24
65 Corona Connection 7b+ * 3
66 Prophets of Rage 7b ** 85
67 Haunted by a Million Screams 6c+ ** 126
68 The Ghost of Ian Curtis 7c+ * 1
69 Atrocity Exhibition 7a+ * 35
70 The Wonders of Wallkraft 7a ** 79
71 Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ ** 32
72 Extremely Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ * 1
73 Day of the Lords 7a 15
74 Minimum Maximum 7b+ * 2
75 Ken Wilson's Last Stand 7a * 43
76 With or Without You 6a+ * 158
77 Cold Steal 6b 54
78 John Craven's Willy Warmer 5c * 420
79 Taylor-made Tracking Damage 6c+ 74
80 Alienation 7a 12
81 A Sea Without Water 6c * 32
82 Fire-Fox 5b 31
83 Option B 6c+ 16
84 Eye am the Sky 7a+ * 9
  Graveyard Area
86 Mr. Fantastic 4c S0 3
87 Here Comes the Hezbollah 6b+ 15
88 F.Y.B. 6c * 9
89 Lucretia, My Reflection 6c ** 14
90 The Pump Will Tear Us Apart 7a+ ** 3
91 Mariner's Graveyard 7a+ *** 15
92 Corridors of Power 7a+ * 2
  Bust Ya Boiler
94 Slave to the Cave 7b *** 7
95 Hell's Darker Chambers 7c+ *** 1
96 Legendary Shadows 7c+ ** 1
97 Bust Ya' Boiler 7b+ ** 3
98 Mucho Gusto! 7b * 3
99 Hard Act to Follow 6c * 13
100 Dancing Fool 7a * 8
101 Mariana's Trenchcoat 6b+ * 19
102 Coprophobia 6b+ * 16
103 Piss Traverse XS * 3
104 First Roped Climb
-
D 35
105 Beta
-
VD 36
106 Second Best
-
VS 31
107 Blimey
-
VS 33
108 West Corner S 7
109 Alpha S 8
  Lower Tier - Left - Bouldering
111 Richard's Slant VS 3
112 Crump f5+ * 5
113 Memphis Jookin f6A * 3
114 Krumping f6B+ ** 3
115 Harlem Shake f6B+ ** 3
116 C-Walk f6B ** 5
Climb name Grade
117 Snap Dance f5+ * 7
118 Locking f5 * 9
119 Popping f5 * 8
120 Breaking f4+ * 8
121 Liquids and Digits f3 * 11
122 G-Walk f4 * 7
123 Delta VS 2
  Mexican Wave Area
125 Mexican Wave Traverse f5+ * 8
126 Whipping Boy 7a 39
127 Whipping Wave 7a+ *  
128 Seismic Shift 7b+ *** 3
129 Mexican Wave 7a+ * 71
130 Metachronal Rhythm 7a+ ** 3
131 Armed and Dangerous 7b+ 7
132 Disarmed Lefthand Start 7b  
133 Disarmed and Non-Dangerous 7b ** 14
134 A Short Story About Power 7b * 33
135 Circus Beach 7b+ * 3
136 The Ringmaster 7c ** 1
137 One Finger Trapeze 7c+ *  
138 Bull Shift 6b+ *  
139 Shifting Sands 6c+ *  
140 Bull Power 7a+ *  
  Lower Tier - Right - Bouldering
142 Juggy Traverse f4+ ** 6
143 Weightless f7A+ ** 2
144 Ceilidh f5+ * 3
145 Fandango f6A 3
146 Pasodoble f5+ 5
147 Minuet f6A * 4
148 Polka f5 5
149 Humppa f5+ * 6
150 Troika f4+ 6
151 Bhangra f4 8
152 Tarantella f4+ 4
153 Jenkka f5 4
154 Schuhplattler f6A * 4
155 Low Lip Traverse f6B+ * 4
156 Clog f6A * 4
157 Morris f3 8
158 Sardana f5+ * 5
159 Chacarera f6A * 4
160 Carnavalito f6B 4
161 Last Dance f6A+ * 4
  Hieronymous GBH Area
163 Now and Always 6c+ ** 14
164 Lover's Leap 7a+ * 6
165 Born Again 6b+ ** 88
166 Hieronymous GBH 6c+ 19
167 Dante's Inferno 7a+ * 4
168 Sea of Holes 6b * 4
169 Song to the Siren 7a+ **  
170 White Rave 7a+ *** 2
171 Ten-K-Rig E4 6a  
172 Absent Friend E4 6b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sam.sam.sam.ferguson