UKC

Climbs 176
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners. Some bouldering areas. Much of the crag is polished and several 5s and 6s are a higher grade due to the polished holds.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The National Trust car park (pay and display) is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path. From here steps lead down into the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Quarry - Left
2 This Should Move Ya! 7a 1
3 A Brutal Equation 7a * 57
4 Shinhead Clash 6b+ * 165
5 Idiot Joy Showland 6c+ * 76
6 Sugar Ray 7a+ ** 70
7 Names is for Tombstones, Baby 7a * 41
8 Looking in traffic 6a 24
9 Smut & Violence 6a 18
10 Custodian 6a+ 21
11 Saskia 5c * 6
12 Transparent Birthday Suit 5c 366
13 WAF 6a * 5
14 Commander Cody and the Lost Planet Airmen E1 5c 20
15 Ideal World 6a+ * 209
16 Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues 6b * 151
17 Ozark Mountain Daredevils 6a+ * 289
18 The Trade Route 5a 72
19 B4 Destruction 6b+ * 129
20 Date with a Frog 6a * 487
21 Indian Rope Trick 7b+ * 2
22 Fear of a Black Planet 7a * 62
23 Today Forever 7a+ * 17
  The Quarry - Bouldering
25 Birth, School, Work, Death
-
V4 10
26 More Brutal f6C 2
27 Freedance f7A+ ** 23
28 A Brutal Equation Start f6B+ ** 8
29 A Brutal Skinhead f6B+ * 3
30 Skinhead Clash Start f4+ * 7
31 Stuck Between a Skinhead and an Idiot f6C ** 3
32 Idiot Joy Showland Start f6B+ * 10
33 Sugar Ray Start f6A * 9
34 Names is for Tombstones, Baby Direct Start f5+ * 6
35 Juggy Traverse f6A * 7
36 Monorail f7A * 1
  The Quarry - Centre
38 Chicago Pipe Dreaming 6a * 371
39 Borra Ring 5c * 542
40 Perpetual State of Confusion 6b+ * 125
41 Hiccup 6c 42
42 Empty Promises 6a 316
43 All Fall Down 6a+ * 348
44 Carol's Little Injection 6a 295
45 Slopin' and Hopin' 6b+ ** 176
46 Someday 7a * 11
47 Mr. Choo Choo 7a ** 178
48 Stay Balanced 7a * 11
49 Seven Year's Solitary 7a+ * 24
50 Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion 7b * 25
51 Disco's Out, Murder's In 6c+ * 56
52 Daylight Robbery 6c ** 140
53 Double or Quits 7a+ ** 64
54 Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven 6b+ ** 390
55 The Honey Monster 6c 30
56 The War of the Wardens 5c 305
57 You'll Pay For It 5c * 10
58 Positive Action 6a * 9
  The Quarry - Right
60 Fred Roberts 6b * 2
61 Negative Creep 6b+ * 80
62 1937 Direct 6c * 1
63 Slap, Bang on a Hang 6c 50
Climb name Grade
64 Corona Envelope 7b+ * 24
65 Corona Connection 7b+ * 3
66 Prophets of Rage 7b ** 87
67 Haunted by a Million Screams 6c+ ** 129
68 The Ghost of Ian Curtis 7c+ * 1
69 Atrocity Exhibition 7a+ * 36
70 The Wonders of Wallkraft 7a ** 81
71 Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ ** 32
72 Extremely Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ * 1
73 Day of the Lords 7a 15
74 Minimum Maximum 7b+ * 2
75 Ken Wilson's Last Stand 7a * 43
76 With or Without You 6a+ * 158
77 Cold Steal 6b 54
78 John Craven's Willy Warmer 5c * 422
79 Taylor-made Tracking Damage 6c+ 75
80 Alienation 7a 12
81 A Sea Without Water 6c * 32
82 Fire-Fox 5b 33
83 Option B 6c+ 15
84 Eye am the Sky 7a+ * 9
  Graveyard Area
86 Mr. Fantastic 4c S0 3
87 Here Comes the Hezbollah 6b+ 15
88 F.Y.B. 6c * 9
89 Lucretia, My Reflection 6c ** 14
90 The Pump Will Tear Us Apart 7a+ ** 3
91 Mariner's Graveyard 7a+ *** 15
92 Corridors of Power 7a+ * 2
  Bust Ya Boiler
94 Slave to the Cave 7b *** 7
95 Hell's Darker Chambers 7c+ *** 1
96 Legendary Shadows 7c+ ** 1
97 Bust Ya' Boiler 7b+ ** 4
98 Mucho Gusto! 7b * 4
99 Hard Act to Follow 6c * 13
100 Dancing Fool 7a * 8
101 Mariana's Trenchcoat 6b+ * 21
  Lower Tier Routes
103 Coprophobia 6b+ * 17
104 West Corner S 11
105 Piss Traverse XS * 3
106 First Roped Climb
-
D 35
107 Delta VS 2
108 Beta
-
VD 36
109 Alpha S 8
110 Second Best
-
VS 31
111 Blimey
-
VS 33
112 Richard's Recess M 1
113 Richard's Slant VS 3
114 Richard's Direct MVS 4b 1
115 The Prow VS 4c * 1
116 Squeeze Chimney M * 1
117 Omicron D 1
118 Pi MS 1
119 Rho VS  
120 Sigma S 1
121 Tau S 1
122 Upsilon D * 2
123 Phi VD 2
124 Chi D 2
125 Psi D 2
126 Omega D * 2
Climb name Grade
  Lower Tier - Left - Bouldering
128 Crump f5+ * 5
129 Memphis Jookin f6A * 3
130 Krumping f6B+ ** 3
131 Harlem Shake f6B+ ** 3
132 C-Walk f6B ** 5
133 Snap Dance f5+ * 8
134 Locking f5 * 10
135 Popping f5 * 10
136 Breaking f4+ * 9
137 Liquids and Digits f3 * 12
138 G-Walk f4 * 9
  Mexican Wave Area
140 Mexican Wave Traverse f5+ * 8
141 Whipping Boy 7a 39
142 Whipping Wave 7a+ *  
143 Seismic Shift 7b+ *** 3
144 Mexican Wave 7a+ * 72
145 Metachronal Rhythm 7a+ ** 3
146 Armed and Dangerous 7b+ 7
147 Disarmed Lefthand Start 7b  
148 Disarmed and Non-Dangerous 7b ** 14
149 A Short Story About Power 7b * 34
150 Circus Beach 7b+ * 3
151 The Ringmaster 7c ** 1
152 One Finger Trapeze 7c+ *  
153 Bull Shift 6b+ *  
154 Shifting Sands 6c+ *  
155 Bull Power 7a+ *  
  Lower Tier - Right - Bouldering
157 Juggy Traverse f4+ ** 7
158 Weightless f7A+ ** 2
159 Ceilidh f5+ * 4
160 Fandango f6A 4
161 Pasodoble f5+ 5
162 Minuet f6A * 4
163 Polka f5 5
164 Humppa f5+ * 7
165 Troika f4+ 6
166 Bhangra f4 8
167 Tarantella f4+ 4
168 Jenkka f5 4
169 Schuhplattler f6A * 4
170 Low Lip Traverse f6B+ * 4
171 Clog f6A * 4
172 Morris f3 9
173 Sardana f5+ * 5
174 Chacarera f6A * 4
175 Carnavalito f6B 4
176 Last Dance f6A+ * 4
  Hieronymous GBH Area
178 Now and Always 6c+ ** 14
179 Lover's Leap 7a+ * 6
180 Born Again 6b+ ** 89
181 Hieronymous GBH 6c+ 19
182 Dante's Inferno 7a+ * 4
183 Sea of Holes 6b * 4
184 Song to the Siren 7a+ **  
185 White Rave 7a+ *** 2
186 Ten-K-Rig E4 6a  
187 Absent Friend E4 6b 2

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