Climbs 156
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners. Some bouldering areas. Much of the crag is polished and several 5s and 6s are a higher grade due to the polished holds.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path. From here steps lead down into the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Quarry - Left
2 This Should Move Ya! 7a 1
3 A Brutal Equation 7a * 54
4 Shinhead Clash 6b+ * 156
5 Idiot Joy Showland 6c+ * 74
6 Sugar Ray 7a+ ** 72
7 Names is for Tombstones, Baby 7a * 37
8 Looking in traffic 6a 14
9 Smut & Violence 6a 13
10 Custodian 6a+ 12
11 Transparent Birthday Suit 5c 351
12 Commander Cody and the Lost Planet Airmen E1 5c 19
13 Ideal World 6a+ * 195
14 Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues 6b * 137
15 Ozark Mountain Daredevils 6a+ * 276
16 Rock Eating Birdie E1 5b ** 3
17 The Trade Route 5a 42
18 B4 Destruction 6b+ * 120
19 Date with a Frog 6a * 453
20 Indian Rope Trick 7b+ * 1
21 Fear of a Black Planet 7a * 59
22 Today Forever 7a+ * 17
  The Quarry - Bouldering
24 Birth, School, Work, Death
-
V4 10
25 More Brutal f6C 2
26 Freedance f7A+ ** 23
27 A Brutal Equation Start f6B+ ** 7
28 A Brutal Skinhead f6B+ * 3
29 Skinhead Clash Start f4+ * 7
30 Stuck Between a Skinhead and an Idiot f6C ** 3
31 Idiot Joy Showland Start f6B+ * 10
32 Sugar Ray Start f6A * 9
33 Names is for Tombstones, Baby Direct Start f5+ * 6
34 Juggy Traverse f6A * 7
35 Monorail f7A * 1
  The Quarry - Centre
37 Chicago Pipe Dreaming 6a * 349
38 Borra Ring 5c * 525
39 Perpetual State of Confusion 6b+ * 125
40 Hiccup 6c 41
41 Empty Promises 6a 286
42 All Fall Down 6a+ * 326
43 Carol's Little Injection 6a 275
44 Slopin' and Hopin' 6b+ ** 171
45 Someday 7a * 9
46 Mr. Choo Choo 7a ** 185
47 Stay Balanced 7a * 10
48 Seven Year's Solitary 7a+ * 24
49 Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion 7b * 22
50 Disco's Out, Murder's In 6c+ * 54
51 Daylight Robbery 6c ** 131
52 Double or Quits 7a+ ** 60
53 Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven 6b+ ** 377
54 The Honey Monster 6c 29
55 The War of the Wardens 5c 292
56 You'll Pay For It 5c * 3
57 Positive Action 6a * 3
  The Quarry - Right
59 Negative Creep 6b+ * 81
60 Slap, Bang on a Hang 6c 51
61 Corona Envelope 7b+ * 23
62 Corona Connection 7b+ * 3
63 Prophets of Rage 7b ** 98
64 Haunted by a Million Screams 6c+ ** 133
65 The Ghost of Ian Curtis 7c+ * 1
66 Atrocity Exhibition 7a+ * 35
67 The Wonders of Wallkraft 7a ** 75
68 Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ ** 35
69 Day of the Lords 7a 12
70 Ken Wilson's Last Stand 7a * 42
71 Minimum Maximum 7b+ * 2
72 With or Without You 6a+ * 148
73 Cold Steal 6b 53
74 John Craven's Willy Warmer 5c * 423
75 Taylor-made Tracking Damage 6c+ 74
76 Alienation 7a 12
77 A Sea Without Water 6c * 30
78 Fire-Fox 5b 21
79 Option B 6c+ 16
80 Eye am the Sky 7a+ * 9
  Graveyard Area
82 Mr. Fantastic 4c S0 3
83 Here Comes the Hezbollah 6b+ 14
84 F.Y.B. 6c * 9
85 Lucretia, My Reflection 6c ** 14
86 The Pump Will Tear Us Apart 7a+ ** 3
87 Mariner's Graveyard 7a+ *** 13
88 Corridors of Power 7a+ * 2
  Bust Ya Boiler
90 Slave to the Cave 7b *** 7
91 Hell's Darker Chambers 7c+ *** 1
92 Legendary Shadows 7c+ ** 1
93 Bust Ya' Boiler 7b+ ** 3
94 Mucho Gusto! 7b * 3
95 Hard Act to Follow 6c * 13
96 Dancing Fool 7a * 8
97 Mariana's Trenchcoat 6b+ * 17
98 Coprophobia 6b+ * 14
99 Piss Traverse XS * 3
100 First Roped Climb
-
D 31
101 Beta
-
VD 33
102 Second Best
-
VS 28
103 Blimey
-
VS 31
104 West Corner S 5
105 Alpha S 7
  Lower Tier - Left - Bouldering
107 Crump f5+ * 3
108 Memphis Jookin f6A * 3
109 Krumping f6B+ ** 3
110 Harlem Shake f6B+ ** 3
111 C-Walk f6B ** 5
112 Snap Dance f5+ * 7
113 Locking f5 * 7
114 Popping f5 * 8
115 Breaking f4+ * 6
116 Liquids and Digits f3 * 9
117 G-Walk f4 * 7
  Mexican Wave Area
119 Mexican Wave Traverse f5+ * 7
120 Whipping Boy 7a 39
121 Whipping Wave 7a+ *  
122 Seismic Shift 7b+ *** 3
123 Mexican Wave 7a+ * 69
124 Metachronal Rhythm 7a+ ** 3
125 Armed and Dangerous 7b+ 8
126 Disarmed Lefthand Start 7b  
127 Disarmed and Non-Dangerous 7b **  
128 A Short Story About Power 7b * 33
129 Circus Beach 7b+ * 3
130 The Ringmaster 7c ** 1
131 One Finger Trapeze 7c+ *  
132 Bull Shift 6b+ *  
133 Shifting Sands 6c+ *  
134 Bull Power 7a+ *  
  Lower Tier - Right - Bouldering
136 Juggy Traverse f4+ ** 6
137 Weightless f7A+ ** 2
138 Ceilidh f5+ * 3
139 Fandango f6A 3
140 Pasodoble f5+ 4
141 Minuet f6A * 4
142 Polka f5 4
143 Humppa f5+ * 5
144 Troika f4+ 5
145 Bhangra f4 8
146 Tarantella f4+ 4
147 Jenkka f5 4
148 Schuhplattler f6A * 4
149 Low Lip Traverse f6B+ * 4
150 Clog f6A * 4
151 Morris f3 8
152 Sardana f5+ * 4
153 Chacarera f6A * 4
154 Carnavalito f6B 4
155 Last Dance f6A+ * 4
  Hieronymous GBH Area
157 Now and Always 6c+ ** 14
158 Lover's Leap 7a+ * 6
159 Born Again 6b+ ** 97
160 Hieronymous GBH 6c+ 19
161 Dante's Inferno 7a+ * 4
162 Sea of Holes 6b * 4
163 Song to the Siren 7a+ **  
164 White Rave 7a+ *** 2
165 Ten-K-Rig E4 6a  
166 Absent Friend E4 6b 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sam.sam.sam.ferguson