UKC

Climbs 176
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

Dancing Ledge is one of the most important areas at Swanage for sport climbers. The quality and variety of routes is good and virtually all are fully bolted with solid resin staples. The quarry routes are mostly very solid and friendly outings, whilst the sea-level cave routes are intimidating, often committing and strenuous, though the rock and atmosphere are excellent. The picturesque setting makes this a great summer spot for picnicking and swimming.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. From just outside Swanage town, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down the road (on a track for the last 150m) just beyond Langton House. From the parking, walk south on a good path/track to Spyway Barn. Continue through two fields until the cliff-top path is reached. Head down the big hill (via stone steps) towards Dancing Ledge, which lies directly below the coast path. Steps lead down into the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Quarry - Bouldering
2 More Brutal f6C 3
3 Freedance f7A+ ** 23
4 A Brutal Equation Start f6B+ ** 9
5 A Brutal Skinhead f6B+ * 4
6 Skinhead Clash Start f4+ * 11
7 Stuck Between a Skinhead and an Idiot f6C ** 4
8 Idiot Joy Showland Start f6B+ * 11
9 Sugar Ray Start f6A * 10
10 Names is for Tombstones, Baby Direct Start f5+ * 9
11 Juggy Traverse f6A * 9
12 Monorail f7A * 2
  The Quarry - Left
14 A Brutal Equation 7a * 60
15 Shinhead Clash 6b+ * 172
16 Idiot Joy Showland 6c+ * 79
17 Sugar Ray 7a+ ** 76
18 Names is for Tombstones, Baby 7a * 46
19 Looking in traffic 6a 27
20 Smut & Violence 6a 25
21 Custodian 6a+ 26
22 Saskia 5c * 17
23 Transparent Birthday Suit 5c 394
24 WAF 6a * 8
25 Commander Cody and the Lost Planet Airmen E1 5c 20
26 Ideal World 6a+ * 220
27 Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues 6b * 163
28 Ozark Mountain Daredevils 6a+ * 304
29 The Trade Route 5a 89
30 B4 Destruction 6b+ * 137
31 Date with a Frog 6a * 516
32 Indian Rope Trick 7b+ * 2
33 Fear of a Black Planet 7a * 68
34 Today Forever 7a+ * 18
  The Quarry - Centre
36 Chicago Pipe Dreaming 6a * 388
37 Borra Ring 5c * 581
38 Perpetual State of Confusion 6b+ * 130
39 Hiccup 6c 44
40 Empty Promises 6a 351
41 All Fall Down 6a+ * 379
42 Carol's Little Injection 6a 318
43 Slopin' and Hopin' 6b+ ** 190
44 Someday 7a * 16
45 Mr. Choo Choo 7a ** 191
46 Stay Balanced 7a * 13
47 Seven Year's Solitary 7a+ * 25
48 Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion 7b * 26
49 Disco's Out, Murder's In 6c+ * 58
50 Daylight Robbery 6c ** 158
51 Double or Quits 7a+ ** 65
52 Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven 6b+ ** 414
53 The Honey Monster 6c 32
54 The War of the Wardens 5c 326
55 You'll Pay For It 5c * 16
56 Positive Action 6a * 13
  The Quarry - Right
58 Fred Roberts 6b * 6
59 Negative Creep 6b+ * 80
60 1937 Direct 6c * 1
61 Slap, Bang on a Hang 6c 53
62 Corona Envelope 7b+ * 23
63 Corona Connection 7b+ * 4
Climb name Grade
64 Prophets of Rage 7b ** 89
65 Haunted by a Million Screams 6c+ ** 144
66 The Ghost of Ian Curtis 7c+ * 1
67 Atrocity Exhibition 7a+ * 42
68 The Wonders of Wallkraft 7a ** 89
69 Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ ** 38
70 Extremely Fat Chance Hotel 7b+ * 1
71 Day of the Lords 7a 16
72 Minimum Maximum 7b+ * 2
73 Ken Wilson's Last Stand 7a * 43
74 With or Without You 6a+ * 170
75 Cold Steal 6b 62
76 John Craven's Willy Warmer 5c * 451
77 Taylor-made Tracking Damage 6c+ 75
78 Alienation 7a 13
79 A Sea Without Water 6c * 32
80 Fire-Fox 5b 45
81 Option B 6c+ 16
82 Eye am the Sky 7a+ * 9
  Graveyard Area
84 Birth, School, Work, Death
-
V4 11
85 This Should Move Ya! 7a 1
86 Corridors of Power 7a+ * 2
87 Mariner's Graveyard 7a+ *** 16
88 The Pump Will Tear Us Apart 7a+ ** 3
89 Lucretia, My Reflection 6c ** 19
90 F.Y.B. 6c * 11
91 Here Comes the Hezbollah 6b+ 21
92 Mr. Fantastic 4c S0 3
  Bust Ya Boiler
94 Slave to the Cave 7b *** 7
95 Hell's Darker Chambers 7c+ *** 1
96 Legendary Shadows 7c+ ** 1
97 Bust Ya' Boiler 7b+ ** 4
98 Mucho Gusto! 7b * 5
99 Escape Route
-
D 1
100 Hard Act to Follow 6c * 14
101 Dancing Fool 7a * 10
102 Mariana's Trenchcoat 6b+ * 21
103 Coprophobia 6b+ * 17
  Lower Tier Routes
105 Piss Traverse XS * 4
106 West Corner S 14
107 First Roped Climb
-
D 35
108 Delta VS 8
109 Beta
-
VD 38
110 Alpha S 14
111 Second Best
-
VS 34
112 Blimey
-
VS 36
113 Richard's Recess M 6
114 Richard's Slant VS 4
115 Richard's Direct MVS 4b 4
116 The Prow VS 4c * 2
117 Squeeze Chimney M * 3
118 Omicron D 5
119 Pi MS 2
120 Rho VS 1
121 Sigma S 2
122 Tau S 2
123 Upsilon D * 5
124 Phi VD 5
125 Chi D 4
126 Psi D 4
Climb name Grade
127 Omega D * 7
  Lower Tier - Left - Bouldering
129 Crump f5+ * 8
130 Memphis Jookin f6A * 5
131 Krumping f6B+ ** 5
132 Harlem Shake f6B+ ** 5
133 C-Walk f6B ** 7
134 Snap Dance f5+ * 11
135 Locking f5 * 14
136 Popping f5 * 14
137 Breaking f4+ * 15
138 Liquids and Digits f3 * 18
139 G-Walk f4 * 16
  Mexican Wave Area
141 Whipping Boy 7a 39
142 Whipping Wave 7a+ *  
143 Seismic Shift 7b+ *** 3
144 Mexican Wave 7a+ * 76
145 Metachronal Rhythm 7a+ ** 3
146 Armed and Dangerous 7b+ 7
147 Disarmed Left-hand Start 7b  
148 Disarmed and Non-Dangerous 7b ** 14
149 A Short Story About Power 7b * 38
150 Circus Beach 7b+ * 3
151 The Ringmaster 7c ** 1
152 One Finger Trapeze 7c+ *  
153 Bull Shift 6b+ *  
154 Shifting Sands 6c+ *  
155 Bull Power 7a+ *  
  Lower Tier - Right - Bouldering
157 Mexican Wave Traverse f5+ * 11
158 Juggy Traverse f4+ ** 8
159 Weightless f7A+ ** 3
160 Ceilidh f5+ * 5
161 Fandango f6A 5
162 Pasodoble f5+ 6
163 Minuet f6A * 5
164 Polka f5 6
165 Humppa f5+ * 8
166 Troika f4+ 7
167 Bhangra f4 10
168 Tarantella f4+ 5
169 Jenkka f5 5
170 Schuhplattler f6A * 5
171 Low Lip Traverse f6B+ * 5
172 Clog f6A * 5
173 Morris f3 12
174 Sardana f5+ * 7
175 Chacarera f6A * 5
176 Carnavalito f6B 5
177 Last Dance f6A+ * 5
  Hieronymous GBH Area
179 Now and Always 6c+ ** 14
180 Lover's Leap 7a+ * 6
181 Born Again 6b+ ** 96
182 Hieronymous GBH 6c+ 20
183 Dante's Inferno 7a+ * 4
184 Sea of Holes 6b * 6
185 Song to the Siren 7a+ **  
186 White Rave 7a+ *** 4
187 Ten-K-Rig E4 6a  

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