UKC

Climbs 45
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Trystan seconding the first Pitch of Escapology © henry castle

Crag features

This huge and impressive section of coast has some major rock formations including the spectacular Green bridge and the awe-inspiring Caudron. Routes mostly in the harder grades but range from VS upwards. Access by long abseil or very low spring tides.

Stack Rocks is in Range East - MOD Firing Range. See cliff top notice board for most up to date info.

Access Advice

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The nesting restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) includes the W face of Flimston Ridge, Cauldron, and the Green Bridge of Wales. The Elegug stacks themselves are restricted from March 1st to August 15th to protect Kittewakes as well as Auks.

Additionally, the PCNPA have requested climbers avoid disturbing the breeding grey seal colonies on the shoreline of Strata Walls, Stack Rocks, Stack Rocks Head, Linney Head, and Hobbyhorse Bay from mid-Aug until mid-Oct. If seals are present at this time (they are usually pupping on the beaches) then please avoid abseing/climbing in within 100m of them.  The presence of climbers close to pups can prevent mothers from coming in to feed the pups which can lead to the death of the pup if disturbance is prolonged.

 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Green Bridge Area
2 Isambards Kingdom HVS 5a 18
3 Arc of Time E2 5c ** 3
4 Romanesque E3 8
5 Falling Towards England
-
E6 6b ***  
6 Nothing Ventured E5 6a *** 1
7 Nothing Gained
-
E4 5c ** 7
8 New Age Traveller E2 5b ** 1
9 Love is the Seventh Wave E5 6b ** 1
10 Beau Bridges E4 6a * 1
  madman's Point
12 The Gong E1 5b ** 19
13 Mad Hatters Tea Party E1 5a ** 14
  The Cauldron - Inside Walls
15 Behaving Badly
-
E6 6b ***  
16 All Talk
-
E5 6b *  
17 Dreaming Again
-
E6 6c ***  
18 The Gate of Horn
-
E3 5c ** 1
Climb name Grade
19 Toil and Trouble VS 4b * 15
20 Friend of the Devil
-
E4 6a ** 20
21 The Demon
-
E1 5b 3
22 Sympathy for the Devil
-
E2 5b  
23 Fireburn
-
E1 5b  
24 Ace of Spades
-
HVS 5a  
25 Downbound Train
-
E1 5b 1
26 Damnation
-
E4 5c *  
  The Cauldron - Outside Walls
28 Tall Ships
-
E3 5c  
29 Echo Beach
-
E3 5b, 5b 1
30 Castaways
-
E1 5a  
31 B.F.O
-
HVS 4c  
32 Ecstasy
-
E4 6a * 6
  Flimston Ridge - West Face
34 Hanging by the Bridge
-
E5 6b ***  
  Flimston Point
36 Route 1 (Nigel's RH) HS 1
Climb name Grade
37 Route 2 (Nigel's LH) VD 2
38 Flimsy one groove HS 4a 1
  Precise Location Unknown
40 Wish you were here E3 5c ** 1
41 Bat Out of Hell
-
E3 5c * 1
42 Sieg Heil E5 *** 2
43 Ja Wohl Mein Fuhrer
-
E5 *** 2
44 What Friends are For E4 5c 1
45 Bridge Over Troubled Waters E3 6a * 2
46 Alchemy E4 5c ** 3
47 Arettica E5 6a *** 8
48 Bridgehead Revisited E1 5b 3
49 Eviction
-
E3 5c ** 2
50 Femme Fatale
-
E2 5b ** 3
51 The Great Escape
-
E5 6b  
52 Nostradamus
-
E4 5c 1

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