UKC

Climbs 72
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 517m a.s.l
Faces NW

Back Drop of Dreams © alexstudly

Crag features

A real evening suntrap. Brilliant range of problems on excellent sarp, rock (Flapper city). Best problems featuring the photogenic Pinch at V7 , and Dog Shooter at V4. Landings can be quite knarly but ok with a set of pads.

 

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Sheep%20Pen%20new%20probs%20June%202015%20V2.pdf

Approach notes

from bethesda up on the A5 to the direction of ogwen, three small laybys are passed whitch are situated underneath a big scree running down to the road.The boulders are situated at the top of this scree at a grassy plateau. Park in the smalles of the three laybys beneath the scree.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  FIRST BLOCK
2 First Blocks P1 V0 * 159
3 First Blocks P2 V2 ** 158
4 First Blocks P3 V3 ** 169
5 First Blocks P3 Sit Start V5 ** 10
6 First Blocks P4 V3 * 100
7 Wall f5 24
8 Klem's Arete (First Blocks P5) V4 ** 194
9 Sheep Dipper V2 6
10 Mr T V4 * 4
11 Life In A Northern Town V5 * 10
12 Little Groover V3 * 87
13 Pocket Puller V3 8
14 Mack The Knife V4 ** 129
15 Head shot V5 * 3
  Klem's Bluge
17 Klem's Bulge V5 ** 99
18 Klem's Bulge (Original/Low Method) V7 ** 38
  A Frame Block
20 InTents f7A 2
21 The Clegir Yurt-Dwellers * f7A+ *** 1
  MAIN BLOCK
23 Ding Dong's Traverse V8 ** 15
24 Ding Dong's Traverse into Dog Shooter V8+ ** 9
25 Ding Dong's Traverse into Kingdom Of Rain V9 ** 10
26 Toe Dragon V5 ** 268
27 Dirty Slapper V6 ** 99
Climb name Grade
28 Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter V7 ** 115
29 Toe Dragon into Kingdom of Rain V8 ** 31
30 Dog Shooter V4 *** 424
31 Kingdom Of Rain V6 *** 153
32 Gnasher V6 ** 86
33 Jerry's problem V10 ** 22
34 Low Traverse f6A 18
35 No Head For Heights V4 1
36 NHS V2 3
37 NHS Direct V4 ** 3
38 The Heels Have Eyes V5 ** 7
39 Gnasher LH * f7A+ ** 2
  PINCH BLOCK
41 Pinch Block P1
-
V4 * 40
42 Pinch Block P1 Variation V5 ** 7
43 Front Crack V1 ** 81
44 Front Crack (ss)
-
V3 ** 81
45 Weight Watcher V5 ** 46
46 Front Face V0+ ** 96
47 Inch Arete V0+ ** 53
48 Inch Arete (ss) V4 ** 16
49 The Pinch V7 ** 179
50 Pinch RH V8 ** 11
51 Groove f6A 25
52 Naughty but niche f6B 1
53 Pinch Right Arete V4 * 10
Climb name Grade
  Terrapin block
55 Slap And Tickle V3 * 4
56 Gollum f7A *** 2
57 Smeagol f6C+  
58 The Terrapin f7B 4
59 Shrek f7B  
60 Another Whirlwind Adventure f7C  
61 Shrekagol f7B  
62 Rumplestiltskin f7C  
63 Donkey f6B+  
  Diggingest Dog
65 The Diggingest Dog f7A+ 10
66 Bee Cool f6C  
67 Not Quite The Diggingest Dog * f6C 1
  UNSORTED
69 Weight Restrictions Apply * f6B * 1
70 Mr moustache * f5 1
71 Mousehole Traverse * f6A 1
72 The Menace * f8A+ ** 3
73 Klem's Bulge * V6 7a ** 4
74 Compact Culture * V12 1
75 Soup * f6A 5
76 Lonseome George * f6B+ 2
77 Olive Ridley *
-
f6C+ ** 1
78 The Shell *
-
f6A ** 5
79 Turtle head * f6B 1
80 Turtle head independent * f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jstringer