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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 94
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 346m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Back Drop of Dreams © alexstudly

Crag features

A real evening suntrap. Brilliant range of problems on excellent sarp, rock (Flapper city). Best problems featuring the photogenic Pinch at V7 , and Dog Shooter at V4. Landings can be quite knarly but ok with a set of pads.

 

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Sheep%20Pen%20new%20probs%20June%202015%20V2.pdf

Approach notes

from bethesda up on the A5 to the direction of ogwen, three small laybys are passed whitch are situated underneath a big scree running down to the road.The boulders are situated at the top of this scree at a grassy plateau. Park in the smalles of the three laybys beneath the scree. Walk south along the pavement for about 150m until you pass a stream/ sheep track on the left. Walk up the grassy hill here then cross left at the top, avoiding the scree and gorse. 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  FIRST BLOCK
2 First Blocks P1 V0 * 225
3 First Blocks P2 V2 ** 235
4 First Blocks P3 V3 ** 270
5 First Blocks P3 Sit Start V5 ** 15
6 First Blocks P4 V3 * 153
7 Wall f5 43
8 Klem's Arete (First Blocks P5) V4 ** 272
9 Sheep Dipper V2 13
10 Mr T V4 * 8
11 Life In A Northern Town V5 * 11
12 Little Groover V3 * 106
13 Pocket Puller V3 8
14 Mack The Knife V4 ** 161
15 Head shot V5 * 3
16 Pacific Green *
-
V7 1
17 Pacific Green Extension *
-
V8 1
  Klem's Bluge
19 Klem's Bulge V5 ** 147
20 Klem's Bulge (Original/Low Method) V7 ** 65
  A Frame Block
22 InTents f7A 5
23 The Clegir Yurt-Dwellers * f7A+ *** 2
  MAIN BLOCK
25 Ding Dong's Traverse V8 ** 19
26 Ding Dong's Traverse into Dog Shooter V8+ ** 14
27 Ding Dong's Traverse into Kingdom Of Rain V9 ** 15
28 Toe Dragon V5 ** 349
29 Dirty Slapper V6 ** 135
30 Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter V7 ** 175
31 Toe Dragon into Kingdom of Rain V8 ** 46
32 Dog Shooter V4 *** 561
33 Kingdom Of Rain V6 *** 174
34 Gnasher V6 ** 129
Climb name Grade
35 Jerry's problem V10 ** 23
36 Low Traverse f6A 20
37 No Head For Heights V4 1
38 NHS V2 3
39 NHS Direct V4 ** 3
40 The Heels Have Eyes V5 ** 7
41 Kingdom of Fear *
-
f8A  
42 Kingdom of Pain *
-
f8A **  
43 Gnasher LH * f7A+ ** 5
44 Curtain Call Sit * f8A+ ** 1
45 Curtain Call * f8A * 2
  PINCH BLOCK
47 Pinch Block P1
-
V4 * 45
48 Pinch Block P1 Variation V5 ** 9
49 Front Crack V1 ** 105
50 Front Crack (ss)
-
V3 ** 101
51 Weight Watcher V5 ** 57
52 Front Face V0+ ** 124
53 Inch Arete V0+ ** 67
54 Inch Arete (ss) V4 ** 21
55 The Pinch V7 ** 252
56 Pinch RH V8 ** 27
57 Groove f6A 26
58 Naughty but niche f6B 2
59 Pinch Right Arete V4 * 29
60 Pinch LH * f7B+ 5
61 Little nipper * f6B+ * 2
  Terrapin block
63 Slap And Tickle V3 * 4
64 Gollum f7A *** 5
65 Smeagol f6C+  
66 The Terrapin f7B 7
67 Shrek f7B  
68 Another Whirlwind Adventure f7C  
Climb name Grade
69 Shrekagol f7B  
70 Rumplestiltskin f7C 1
71 Donkey f6B+ 1
  Diggingest Dog
73 The Diggingest Dog f7A+ 18
74 Bee Cool f6C  
75 Not Quite The Diggingest Dog * f6C 1
  UNSORTED
77 Weight Restrictions Apply * f6B * 1
78 Mr moustache * f5 1
79 Mousehole Traverse * f6A 1
80 The Menace * f8A+ ** 4
81 Klem's Bulge * V6 7a ** 27
82 Compact Culture * V12 2
83 Soup * f6A 19
84 Lonseome George * f6B+ 6
85 Olive Ridley *
-
f6C+ ** 1
86 The Shell *
-
f6A ** 31
87 Turtle head * f6B 1
88 Turtle head independent * f6B 1
89 Bass guitar * f6A+ * 1
90 Hot lips * f6B 1
91 The punch * f6C * 11
92 Huffys Wall * f7C ** 7
93 The Arbiter * f8A ** 5
94 Lock and load * f7C * 4
95 Jerry's Left Hand *
-
f8A * 1
96 Lonesome George * f6C * 3
97 Mr T *
-
f6C * 2
98 Pacific Green *
-
f7A+ * 2
99 Lonesome George Extension *
-
f6C+ * 3
100 Sharkbait *
-
f5 4
101 Leatherback *
-
f6C 2
102 Huffys problem * f7A+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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