Climbs 85
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 346m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Back Drop of Dreams © alexstudly

Crag features

A real evening suntrap. Brilliant range of problems on excellent sarp, rock (Flapper city). Best problems featuring the photogenic Pinch at V7 , and Dog Shooter at V4. Landings can be quite knarly but ok with a set of pads.

 

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Sheep%20Pen%20new%20probs%20June%202015%20V2.pdf

Approach notes

from bethesda up on the A5 to the direction of ogwen, three small laybys are passed whitch are situated underneath a big scree running down to the road.The boulders are situated at the top of this scree at a grassy plateau. Park in the smalles of the three laybys beneath the scree. Walk south along the pavement for about 150m until you pass a stream/ sheep track on the left. Walk up the grassy hill here then cross left at the top, avoiding the scree and gorse. 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  FIRST BLOCK
2 First Blocks P1 V0 * 209
3 First Blocks P2 V2 ** 212
4 First Blocks P3 V3 ** 235
5 First Blocks P3 Sit Start V5 ** 13
6 First Blocks P4 V3 * 130
7 Wall f5 40
8 Klem's Arete (First Blocks P5) V4 ** 243
9 Sheep Dipper V2 11
10 Mr T V4 * 6
11 Life In A Northern Town V5 * 11
12 Little Groover V3 * 99
13 Pocket Puller V3 8
14 Mack The Knife V4 ** 147
15 Head shot V5 * 3
  Klem's Bluge
17 Klem's Bulge V5 ** 130
18 Klem's Bulge (Original/Low Method) V7 ** 53
  A Frame Block
20 InTents f7A 5
21 The Clegir Yurt-Dwellers * f7A+ *** 2
  MAIN BLOCK
23 Ding Dong's Traverse V8 ** 17
24 Ding Dong's Traverse into Dog Shooter V8+ ** 12
25 Ding Dong's Traverse into Kingdom Of Rain V9 ** 13
26 Toe Dragon V5 ** 320
27 Dirty Slapper V6 ** 118
28 Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter V7 ** 154
29 Toe Dragon into Kingdom of Rain V8 ** 41
30 Dog Shooter V4 *** 510
31 Kingdom Of Rain V6 *** 160
Climb name Grade
32 Gnasher V6 ** 113
33 Jerry's problem V10 ** 14
34 Low Traverse f6A 19
35 No Head For Heights V4 1
36 NHS V2 3
37 NHS Direct V4 ** 3
38 The Heels Have Eyes V5 ** 7
39 Kingdom of Fear *
-
f8A  
40 Kingdom of Pain *
-
f8A **  
41 Gnasher LH * f7A+ ** 5
42 Curtain Call * f8A * 1
  PINCH BLOCK
44 Pinch Block P1
-
V4 * 45
45 Pinch Block P1 Variation V5 ** 9
46 Front Crack V1 ** 94
47 Front Crack (ss)
-
V3 ** 95
48 Weight Watcher V5 ** 52
49 Front Face V0+ ** 109
50 Inch Arete V0+ ** 61
51 Inch Arete (ss) V4 ** 20
52 The Pinch V7 ** 227
53 Pinch RH V8 ** 17
54 Groove f6A 26
55 Naughty but niche f6B 2
56 Pinch Right Arete V4 * 26
57 Pinch LH * f7B+ 2
58 Little nipper * f6B+ * 1
  Terrapin block
60 Slap And Tickle V3 * 4
61 Gollum f7A *** 4
62 Smeagol f6C+  
Climb name Grade
63 The Terrapin f7B 5
64 Shrek f7B  
65 Another Whirlwind Adventure f7C  
66 Shrekagol f7B  
67 Rumplestiltskin f7C 1
68 Donkey f6B+ 1
  Diggingest Dog
70 The Diggingest Dog f7A+ 16
71 Bee Cool f6C  
72 Not Quite The Diggingest Dog * f6C 1
  UNSORTED
74 Weight Restrictions Apply * f6B * 1
75 Mr moustache * f5 1
76 Mousehole Traverse * f6A 1
77 The Menace * f8A+ ** 3
78 Klem's Bulge * V6 7a ** 19
79 Compact Culture * V12 1
80 Soup * f6A 12
81 Lonseome George * f6B+ 3
82 Olive Ridley *
-
f6C+ ** 1
83 The Shell *
-
f6A ** 20
84 Turtle head * f6B 1
85 Turtle head independent * f6B 1
86 Bass guitar * f6A+ * 1
87 Hot lips * f6B 1
88 The punch * f6C * 7
89 Huffys Wall * f7C ** 7
90 The Arbiter * f8A ** 5
91 Lock and load * f7C * 4
92 Jerry's Left Hand *
-
f8A *  
93 Lonesome George * f6C * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jstringer