Climbs 71
Rocktype Rhyolite

Faces NW

Back Drop of Dreams © alexstudly

Crag features

A real evening suntrap. Brilliant range of problems on excellent sarp, rock (Flapper city). Best problems featuring the photogenic Pinch at V7 , and Dog Shooter at V4. Landings can be quite knarly but ok with a set of pads.

 

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Sheep%20Pen%20new%20probs%20June%202015%20V2.pdf

Approach notes

from bethesda up on the A5 to the direction of ogwen, three small laybys are passed whitch are situated underneath a big scree running down to the road.The boulders are situated at the top of this scree at a grassy plateau. Park in the smalles of the three laybys beneath the scree.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  FIRST BLOCK
2 First Blocks P1 V0 * 157
3 First Blocks P2 V2 ** 154
4 First Blocks P3 V3 ** 162
5 First Blocks P3 Sit Start V5 ** 10
6 First Blocks P4 V3 * 97
7 Wall f5 19
8 Klem's Arete (First Blocks P5) V4 ** 186
9 Sheep Dipper V2 6
10 Mr T V4 * 4
11 Life In A Northern Town V5 * 10
12 Little Groover V3 * 85
13 Pocket Puller V3 8
14 Mack The Knife V4 ** 130
15 Head shot V5 * 3
  Klem's Bluge
17 Klem's Bulge V5 ** 95
18 Klem's Bulge (Original/Low Method) V7 ** 36
  A Frame Block
20 InTents f7A 2
21 The Clegir Yurt-Dwellers * f7A+ *** 1
  MAIN BLOCK
23 Ding Dong's Traverse V8 ** 15
24 Ding Dong's Traverse into Dog Shooter V8+ ** 9
25 Ding Dong's Traverse into Kingdom Of Rain V9 ** 10
26 Toe Dragon V5 ** 255
27 Dirty Slapper V6 ** 94
28 Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter V7 ** 120
29 Toe Dragon into Kingdom of Rain V8 ** 30
30 Dog Shooter V4 *** 405
31 Kingdom Of Rain V6 *** 142
32 Gnasher V6 ** 87
33 Jerry's problem V10 ** 10
34 Low Traverse f6A 18
35 No Head For Heights V4 1
36 NHS V2 3
37 NHS Direct V4 ** 3
38 The Heels Have Eyes V5 ** 6
  PINCH BLOCK
40 Pinch Block P1
-
V4 * 40
41 Pinch Block P1 Variation V5 ** 7
42 Front Crack V1 ** 80
43 Front Crack (ss)
-
V3 ** 82
44 Weight Watcher V5 ** 46
45 Front Face V0+ ** 94
46 Inch Arete V0+ ** 54
47 Inch Arete (ss) V4 ** 17
48 The Pinch V7 ** 197
49 Pinch RH V8 ** 10
50 Groove f6A 25
51 Naughty but niche f6B 1
52 Pinch Right Arete V4 * 6
  Terrapin block
54 Slap And Tickle V3 * 4
55 Gollum f7A *** 2
56 Smeagol f6C+  
57 The Terrapin f7B 3
58 Shrek f7B  
59 Another Whirlwind Adventure f7C  
60 Shrekagol f7B  
61 Rumplestiltskin f7C  
62 Donkey f6B+  
  Diggingest Dog
64 The Diggingest Dog f7A+ 8
65 Bee Cool f6C  
66 Not Quite The Diggingest Dog * f6C 1
  UNSORTED
68 Weight Restrictions Apply * f6B * 1
69 Mr moustache * f5 1
70 Mousehole Traverse * f6A 1
71 The Menace * f8A+ ** 3
72 Klem's Bulge * V6 7a ** 4
73 Compact Culture * V12 1
74 Soup * f6A 4
75 Lonseome George * f6B+ 2
76 Olive Ridley *
-
f6C+ ** 1
77 The Shell *
-
f6A ** 5
78 Turtle head * f6B 1
79 Turtle head independent * f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jstringer