UKC

Climbs 235
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Unknown climber at Lulworth Cove © gooding

Crag features

The Lulworth area lies at the heart of the Jurassic Coast, and is popular with visitors attracted by the remarkable scenery, fine coastal walks and beautiful beaches. For the climber the main event is the fantastic overhanging faces and architectural rock arches. The position of the walls perched above the sea not only adds atmosphere to the bolted climbing, but also allows great deep-water-soloing, for which the area has become renowned in recent years. On the eastern side of Lulworth Cove itself is another climbing area - Lulworth East, which has some worthwhile sport and trad pitches that usually involve spectacular roof climbing. To the west of Lulworth Cove lies a high ridge of steep pinnacles (Dungy Head) and a huge boulder on the seashore known as Church Rock. These provide a complete contrast in style with generally easier, pocketed wall climbs that may be an attractive option when the arms can no longer lock-off at Stair Hole, or for those in search of easier grades. The final area is Durdle Door, with its famous and much-photographed arch, which is home to several sustained pump-outs.

Approach notes

Lulworth Cove is well signed from the town of Wool which is on the A352, between Wareham and Dorchester. The main crags are approached from the large car park (fee) in West Lulworth.

Dungy Head/Church Rock - Walk up the road, past the Cove Centre, and continue up the steep hill on the right. After 200m turn left up a hidden track, by a large double garage, just past Stair House and follow this steeply to gain a ridge. The routes are all approached from here.

Stair Hole - Walk up the road, past the Cove Centre, and continue over a ridge to descend into the Stair Hole basin. Do not bear left towards the telescope on the hill. 

Lulworth East - These are the cliffs situated on the far side of the main Lulworth Cove. 

Durdle Door - Durdle Door can easily be reached by walking over the hill from Lulworth. Alternatively you can park in the car park which is situated at the far side of Durdle Door campsite. There is a parking charge in the Summer but not in the Winter.

Access Advice

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Butter Rock
2 Butterfingers S 1
  Durdle Door
4 Durdle Door Traverse 6a ** 6
5 Silly Arête VD  
6 Arcwelder 7b *** 1
7 Riding to Babylon 7a+ *** 13
8 Sardine Liberation Front 6c+ S2 **  
9 They Call Me Tall Man 6b * 5
10 Unleash the Veins 7b+ ** 1
11 St. Oswald's Bay to Durdle Door Traverse 5c ** 2
12 Stormbringer
-
E2 5b 1
13 Exfoliator
-
E2 5b 1
  Dungy Head and Church Rock
15 Pickpocket 5a 2
16 Morris the Carnivore 6a+ 3
17 Beavis and Butthead 6a 7
18 One-Two, One-Two 7a * 3
19 Beers, Steers and Queers 6c+ * 11
20 Dungeons and Dragons 7a+ * 6
21 Shoes for my friends 6a+ * 7
22 Lost Souls 6a+ 2
23 Looking Through the Infinity Window 6c+ *** 8
24 Closing Time 7a+ ** 6
25 The Debt Collector 6b * 23
26 Wall of Feedback 6c+ * 20
27 Blow Me! 7a 15
28 Blow Daddy-O E3 5c * 7
29 House Nation 6c ** 38
30 B-Boys rock 6b+ * 2
31 Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane 6b ** 38
32 Turn It On 7b * 16
33 Wet Feet * VS 5a 1
  Church Rock Area - Bouldering
35 Coracle f6A * 3
36 Cobra Crack f6A * 5
37 Spitting Cobra f6C * 1
38 Cobra f6B+ * 7
39 Mongoose Groove f4+ * 12
40 Mongoose Arête f3 * 10
41 Arête of Nails f4+ * 11
42 Bed of Nails f6B ** 13
43 Shark Skin Prow f7A ** 1
44 Ecclesiophobia f6C * 1
45 Ecclesiophobia Extension f7A * 1
46 God is in the T.V. f6A * 1
47 Black Mass f6B+ * 1
48 Crown of Thorns f6B * 3
49 Grey Snapper f5+ * 13
50 Coke Can Arête f6B * 8
51 Wow Prow f7B *** 6
52 Bogey Face f6A * 5
53 Out of Sight f5+ * 9
54 Secret Identity f6A * 5
55 Incognito f5+ * 6
56 No name f3 * 9
57 The Dragon f7A+ *** 18
58 Left-hand Man f7A *** 11
59 Right-hand Man f7A *** 20
60 Pocket Man f6C ** 4
61 Pocket Rocket f6A ** 21
62 The Serpent f6C+ *** 5
63 Cloaca f5+ * 7
64 Wolf Cub f6C+ ** 3
65 Arch Stanton f4+ 5
66 Stanton Deliver f6C+ ** 1
67 The Eden Project f7A+ ** 2
68 Black Magic f4+ 6
69 Voodoo People f3 4
70 Snout * V1 1
71 Jawline * V0  
  Dungy Head Beach - Bouldering
73 Dungy Wall f4 * 12
74 Dungy Arête f4+ * 10
75 Dungy Arête, Sit-start f6A * 5
76 Awesome Arête f6B+ ** 2
77 Awesome Arête, Sit-start f6C+ *** 4
78 Jade River f7A * 2
79 St Oswald's Wall f5+ * 2
80 St Oswald's Arête f6C ** 2
81 Spanish Archer f6B+ * 2
82 Snail Slab f6A * 4
Climb name Grade
83 Snail Slab, Sit-start f6A * 2
84 Corsair f6B ** 2
85 Corsair, Sit-start f6B+ ** 5
86 Man O' War f6A+ ** 6
87 Man O' War, Sit-start f6C *** 4
88 Man O' War Arête f4+ * 4
89 Man O' War Arête, Sit-start f5+ ** 3
90 Two Metres Squared f5 12
91 Two By Two f5+ 10
92 Four Square Metres f4 6
93 Made from Girders f4+ * 4
94 Irn Bru Traverse f6A * 5
95 Frank Sidebottom f6A * 4
96 Front Bottom f6C 1
97 Back Bottom f6C ** 3
98 Big Bertha f5+ * 3
99 Hurricane Bertha f6B+ * 2
100 Junk in My Trunk f3 6
101 Junk Face f5+ * 11
102 Junk Arête f4+ * 6
103 Cat Power f7A ** 2
104 Jurassica f6A * 5
105 Static Crack f6A * 8
106 Peter Crouch f6B ** 3
107 Stick Stealer f6B ** 5
108 No Arête f6C ** 2
109 Cheese Arête f6B *** 10
110 Doing Time f7A * 1
111 Exfoliator f4+ 11
  Approaches and Laws Traverse
113 The Laws Traverse E1 6a ** 326
114 The Laws Traverse Low
-
6c ** 14
115 Laws Direct Start 7b S1 * 8
116 Trashy's Arête VS 4c 10
117 The Brotherhood E5 6b **  
118 The Walkin' Dude E4 5c 8
119 Skilfish E3 5b  
120 Pocket Gulley
-
V2 3
121 The Shire V2 2
122 Rohan V1 1
123 Middle Earth
-
V2 3
124 East Cave Slab S 6
125 The Maypole HVS 5b *** 762
126 Thieving Gypsy E5 6b * 16
127 Imp of the Perverse E6 6b ** 3
128 Slab and Corner VD 3
129 Lewis VD 5
  Stair Hole West Cave
131 Cheddar Direct VS 4c * 83
132 Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way E2 5c * 102
133 Crazy Notion E5 6b ** 86
134 Animal Magnetism 7a+ *** 266
135 Journey to Eternia 7c+ ** 3
136 Never Kneel to Skeletor 7c+ *** 1
137 Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy 8a ** 1
138 Hurbot the Turbot E4 6b * 24
139 Route 66 6a S1 * 4
140 Escobar 7a S0 * 4
141 Contortions 7a S1 * 1
142 El Guapo 7b+ S0 *** 8
143 El Diablo Suelto 7c S1 **  
144 And Now for Something Entirely Different V3 3
145 Old Timer's Club 7b+ S1 ** 1
146 Lower than Whale Shit 6c+ S0 * 19
147 Last Season's Loozas 5a S1 ** 102
148 Skullthugery E6 6b *** 2
149 Gates of Greyskull 7b+ *** 105
150 Magnetic Gates 7c * 22
151 Magnetic Skulls E6 6b ** 1
152 The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats E4 6a * 4
153 Hairy Clamber VS 4c * 31
  Stair Hole East Cave
155 Captain Bastard Got There First E2 5c * 191
156 Despicable Terrier E3 6a * 38
157 Despicable Stampede Linkup 6b+ 3
158 Anarchy Stampede E3 6a * 53
159 Stagedivin' 7a+ * 33
160 I Love Eszta E3 5c 21
161 Window of Opportunity E5 6b ** 111
162 Hornier than Thou E6 6b ** 48
163 Sliding Down the Banister E4 6a * 43
164 Does Leviathan Plop Float? 6b+ * 16
Climb name Grade
165 Horny Lil' Devil 7a *** 487
166 Adrenochrome 8a *** 37
167 Lord of Darkness 7c ** 2
168 Mark of the Beast 7c *** 48
169 Burn Hollywood Burn 8a+ *** 2
170 Lulworth Arms Treaty 7b ** 14
171 Freed from Desire 7a+ * 8
172 Grimly Fiendish 7a * 10
173 Omega VS 2
  Link-ups
175 Windowchrome E7 6c *** 1
176 Pump up the Beast E7 6b *** 4
177 Horny Beast 7c *** 1
178 Stage Fright 7b * 7
179 Centre Stage 7b+ * 1
180 Z-Cars E6 6b * 60
181 Z Chrome 8a+ *** 3
182 Imp of the Reverse 7b+ ** 1
183 The Beast of Lulworth 7c ** 2
184 The Beast Goes East 7c ** 1
185 Taming the Beast 7b+ * 1
186 Beast Club 7c **  
187 Burning Arms 7c ** 2
188 The Roof Predator 7c+ ***  
  Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area
190 East Beech slab S 5a * 1
191 Lulworth Cove - Mupe Bay Traverse VD ** 18
192 Traverse of the Fossils E2 5c ** 6
193 Plwmp S 3
194 Lesbian Spank Inferno E3 6a * 1
195 Recursion HVS 5a * 1
196 Ouzo Envy VS 4c * 3
197 Evening Slab S 4a ** 4
198 September Session
-
S 4
199 Lulworth New Order MVS 4b * 2
200 Cuzco E1 5b * 4
201 Ghost of You VS 4b 3
202 Evie E2 5b * 1
203 Stalinist Regime HVS 5a * 2
204 Southern Stutter E1 5a * 2
205 The Poet and the Thief VS 4b * 7
206 Mojo-Pin VS 5a ** 12
207 Mansion Pond E2 5b ** 4
208 Mankini Biscuit E2 5c ** 3
209 4 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you... E2 5b * 4
210 Fear of Litigation E1 5b * 3
211 Extraordinary Rendition E1 5c * 3
212 Hyperbole HVS 5a ** 9
213 MC Hammer VS 4c 4
214 Too Driven HS 4
215 Pussy Galore VS 4c * 7
216 Bad to the Bone 7b+ *  
217 Il Pirata 7c **  
218 Jurassic Coast Pimps E1 5b ** 4
219 Svengali E3 6a * 1
220 Bolt Free VS 4c * 5
221 Carbon Footprint HVS 5b 1
222 The Gift HVS 5b ** 7
223 Dry Your Eyes Mate 7c+ *  
224 JayKay HVS 4c * 2
  Amphitheatre Roofs
226 The Lemon Express 7b *  
227 Breathe the Pressure 7b+ **  
228 Ramases Cubed 7b+  
229 Granny Lifts Car 7b+ **  
230 Let Ya Bones Hang 7a * 2
231 Rigor Mortise 7a ** 1
232 A Storm in Heaven 7c ** 1
233 Eye of the Storm 7b+ ***  
234 Language of Nature 7b *  
235 Weld's Mother 4c 4
236 Monolith Monsters 7b+ **  
237 Mirrorball 7c ** 1
238 Shining Path 7a+ * 1
  Unsorted routes
240 Bastion Traverse S * 6
241 Buoy in a Crack V1 2
242 Scene of the Crime V2 2
243 The Safety Rail
-
E4 5c 2
244 Windy Corner * VS 4c 1
245 Triple Traverse * HS 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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