Climbs 233
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Unknown climber at Lulworth Cove © gooding

Crag features

A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue. Currently has serious access problems and climbing is prohibited and there is a rope off path.

Approach notes

Lulworth Cove is well signed from the town of Wool which is on the A352. The main crags are approached from the big car park in West Lulworth.
Dungy Head/Church Rock - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue up the steep hill on the right. After 200m turn left up a hidden track, by a large double garage, just past Stair House and follow this steeply to gain a ridge. The routes are all approached from here.
Stair Hole - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue over a ridge to descend into the Stair Hole basin. Do not bear left towards the telescope on the hill. See page 257 for approaches from here.
Amphitheatre Roofs - This is situated on the far side of the main Lulworth Cove. Walk around the shingle beach of the main cove and follow a steep track up the slope on the far side. Take the lower path to the main coast path and after about 150m double back down the slope to a rock amphitheatre. From here scramble (Diff) or abseil down to just above the water-line from the far side of the amphitheatre marked by a deep gully. The starts are reached by scrambling along the base of the cliff which is easy at low tide but tricky at high tide (VDiff). It is also possible to abseil into the eastern end from a large stake 20m from the MOD fence. Leave gear well out of sight to avoid being "rescued"!
Durdle Door - Durdle Door can easily be reached by walking over the hill from Lulworth where you will arrive on the map below. Alternatively you can park in the car park which is situated at the far side of Durdle Door campsite. There is a parking charge in the Summer but none in the Winter.

Access Advice

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Durdle Door
2 Butterfingers S 1
3 Arcwelder 7b *** 1
4 Riding to Babylon 7a+ *** 11
5 Sardine Liberation Front 6c+ S2 **  
6 They Call Me Tall Man 6b * 5
7 Unleash the Veins 7b+ ** 1
8 St. Oswald's Bay to Durdle Door Traverse 5c ** 1
9 Stormbringer
-
E2 5b 1
10 Exfoliator
-
E2 5b 1
  Dungy Head and Church Rock
12 Pickpocket 5a 2
13 Morris the Carnivore 6a+ 3
14 Beavis and Butthead 6a 7
15 Beers, Steers and Queers 6c+ * 11
16 Dungeons and Dragons 7a+ * 6
17 Shoes for my friends 6a+ * 7
18 Lost Souls 6a+ 2
19 Looking Through the Infinity Window 6c+ *** 8
20 Closing Time 7a+ ** 6
21 Blow Me! 7a 15
22 Blow Daddy-O E3 5c * 7
23 The Debt Collector 6b * 23
24 Wall of Feedback 6c+ * 20
25 House Nation 6c ** 39
26 B-Boys rock 6b+ * 2
27 Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane 6b ** 38
28 Turn It On 7b * 15
  Church Rock Area - Bouldering
30 Coracle f6A * 2
31 Cobra Crack f6A * 3
32 Cobra f6B+ * 7
33 Mongoose Groove f4+ * 10
34 Mongoose Arete f3 * 7
35 Arete Of Nails f4+ * 9
36 Bed of Nails f6B ** 10
37 Shark Skin Prow f7A **  
38 Black Mass f6B+ *  
39 Crown of Thorns f6B *  
40 Grey Snapper f5+ * 11
41 Coke Can Arete f6B * 7
42 Wow Prow f7B *** 3
43 Bogey Face f6A * 3
44 Out of Sight f5+ * 6
45 Secret Identity f6A * 3
46 The Dragon f7A+ *** 13
47 Left-hand Man f7A *** 5
48 Right Hand Man f7A *** 15
49 Pocket Man f6C ** 1
50 Pocket Rocket f6A ** 16
51 The Serpent f6C+ *** 2
52 Cloaca f5+ * 2
53 Wolf Cub f6C+ ** 1
54 Arch Stanton f4+ 3
55 Stanton Deliver f6C+ **  
56 The Eden Project f7A+ ** 1
57 Black Magic f4+ 3
58 Voodoo People f3 2
  Dungy Head Beach - Bouldering
60 Dungy Wall f4 * 7
61 Dungy Arete f4+ * 5
62 Dungy Arete, Sit-start f6A * 4
63 Awesome Arete f6B+ ** 1
64 Awesome Arete, Sit-start f6C+ *** 3
65 Jade River f7A * 2
66 St Oswald's Wall f5+ * 1
67 St Oswald's Arete f6C ** 1
68 Spanish Archer f6B+ * 1
69 Snail Slab f6A * 4
70 Snail Slab, Sit-start f6A * 1
71 Corsair f6B ** 1
72 Corsair, Sit-start f6B+ ** 4
73 Man O' War f6A+ ** 6
74 Man O' War, Sit-start f6C *** 4
75 Man O' War Arete f4+ * 3
76 Man O' War Arete, Sit-start f5+ ** 2
77 Two Metres Squared f5 7
78 Two By Two f5+ 6
79 Four Square Metres f4 4
80 Made from Girders f4+ * 2
81 Irn Bru Traverse f6A * 2
82 Frank Sidebottom f6A * 3
83 Front Bottom f6C  
84 Back Bottom f6C ** 2
85 Big Bertha f5+ * 2
86 Hurricane Bertha f6B+ * 1
87 Junk in My Trunk f3 3
88 Junk Face f5+ * 9
89 Junk Arete f4+ * 3
90 Cat Power f7A ** 1
91 Jurassica f6A * 3
92 Static Crack f6A * 8
93 Peter Crouch f6B ** 3
94 Stick Stealer f6B ** 5
95 No Arete f6C ** 1
96 Cheese Arete f6B *** 10
97 Doing Time f7A *  
98 Exfoliator f4+ 8
  Stair Hole West Cave
100 The Laws Traverse E1 6a ** 293
101 Laws Direct Start 7b S1 * 7
102 Trashy's Arete VS 4c 8
103 The Brotherhood E5 6b **  
104 The Walkin' Dude E4 5c 8
105 Skilfish E3 5b  
106 Pocket Gulley
-
V2 3
107 Middle Earth
-
V2 3
108 East Cave Slab S 5
109 The Maypole HVS 5b *** 648
110 Escobar 7a S0 * 2
111 Cheddar Direct VS 4c * 76
112 Slab and Corner VD 2
113 Lewis VD 4
114 Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way E2 5c * 85
115 Crazy Notion E5 6b ** 72
116 Animal Magnetism 7a+ *** 233
117 Journey to Eternia 7c+ ** 2
118 Never Kneel to Skeletor 7c+ *** 1
119 Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy 8a ** 1
120 Old Timer's Club 7b+ S1 ** 1
121 Hurbot the Turbot E4 6b * 13
122 Skullthugery E6 6b *** 2
123 Gates of Greyskull 7b+ *** 96
124 Magnetic Gates 7c * 19
125 Magnetic Skulls E6 6b ** 1
126 Lower than whale shit 6c+ S0 * 11
127 The Laws Traverse Low *
-
6c ** 3
  Stair Hole East Cave
129 Last Season's Loozas 5a S1 ** 91
130 The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats E4 6a * 4
131 Hairy Clamber VS 4c * 28
132 Captain Bastard Got There First E2 5c * 169
133 Despicable Terrier E3 6a * 32
134 Anarchy Stampede E3 6a * 40
135 Stagedivin' 7a+ * 29
136 I Love Eszta E3 5c 20
137 Window of Opportunity E5 6b ** 100
138 Thieving Gypsy E5 6b * 11
139 Hornier than Thou E6 6b ** 39
140 Sliding Down the Banister E4 6a * 40
141 Horny Lil' Devil 7a *** 476
142 Horny Beast 7c *** 1
143 Adrenochrome 8a *** 47
144 Windowchrome E7 6c *** 1
145 Lord of Darkness 7c ** 2
146 Taming the Beast 7b+ * 1
147 Mark of the Beast 7c *** 64
148 The Beast Goes East 7c ** 1
149 Burn Hollywood Burn 8a+ *** 2
150 Lulworth Arms Treaty 7b ** 14
151 Freed from Desire 7a+ * 6
152 Grimly Fiendish 7a * 8
153 Omega VS 2
154 Pump up the Beast E7 6b *** 4
155 Stage Fright 7b * 2
156 Centre Stage 7b+ * 1
157 Z-Cars E6 6b * 54
158 The Beast of Lulworth 7c ** 2
159 Beast Club 7c **  
160 Burning Arms 7c ** 2
161 The Roof Predator 7c+ ***  
162 Triple Traverse
-
HS 2
163 Imp of the Reverse * 7b+ ** 1
  Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area
165 East Beech slab S 5a * 1
166 Lulworth Cove - Mupe Bay Traverse VD ** 27
167 Traverse of the Fossils E2 5c ** 5
168 Plwmp S 3
169 Lesbian Spank Inferno E3 6a * 1
170 Recursion HVS 5a * 1
171 Ouzo Envy VS 4c * 3
172 Evening Slab S 4a ** 4
173 September Session
-
S 4
174 Lulworth New Order MVS 4b * 2
175 Cuzco E1 5b * 4
176 Ghost of You VS 4b 3
177 Evie E2 5b * 1
178 Stalinist Regime HVS 5a * 2
179 Souther Stutter E1 5a * 2
180 The Poet and the Thief VS 4b * 5
181 Mojo-Pin VS 5a ** 10
182 Mansion Pond E2 5b ** 4
183 Mankini Biscuit E2 5c ** 3
184 4 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you... E2 5b * 4
185 Fear of Litigation E1 5b * 3
186 Extraordinary Rendition E1 5c * 3
187 Hyperbole HVS 5a ** 9
188 MC hammer VS 4c 4
189 Too Driven HS 4
190 Pussy Galore VS 4c * 5
191 Bolt Free VS 4c * 5
192 Bad to the Bone 7b+ *  
193 Il Pirata 7c **  
194 Jurassic Coast Pimps E1 5b ** 4
195 Svengali E3 6a * 1
196 Carbon Footprint HVS 5b 1
197 The Gift HVS 5b ** 6
198 JayKay HVS 4c * 2
  Amphitheatre Roofs
200 Dry Your Eyes Mate 7c+ *  
201 The Lemon Express 7b *  
202 Breathe the Pressure 7b+ **  
203 Granny Lifts Car 7b+ **  
204 Let Ya Bones Hang 7a * 2
205 Rigor Mortise 7a ** 1
206 A Storm in Heaven 7c ** 1
207 Eye of the Storm 7b+ ***  
208 Language of Nature 7b *  
209 Weld's Mother 4c 4
210 Monolith Monsters 7b+ **  
211 Mirrorball 7c ** 1
212 Shining Path 7a+ * 1
  Unsorted routes
214 Trash Can Gulley
-
V3 3
215 And now for something entirely different V3 6a 3
216 Route 66 6a S1 * 4
217 Bastion Traverse S * 6
218 Does Leviathan Plop Float? 6b+ * 11
219 Durdle Door Traverse 6a ** 6
220 One-Two, One-Two 7a * 3
221 Incognito f5+ * 2
222 Buoy in a Crack V1 2
223 Rohan V1 1
224 The Shire V2 2
225 No name f3 * 5
226 Scene of the Crime V2 2
227 Z Chrome 8a+ *** 2
228 Silly Arete VD  
229 Archway
-
S 2
230 Scott's Escape
-
HS 2
231 Wet Feet
-
VS 5a 2
232 Windy Corner
-
VS 4c 1
233 Sideshow
-
E1 5c 2
234 The Safety Rail
-
E4 5c 2
235 Back to the Future
-
E1 5b 1
236 Imp Of The Perverse E6 6b ** 3
237 Contortions 7a S1 *  
238 El Guapo 7b+ S0 ***  
239 El Diablo Suelto 7c S1 **  
240 Thieving Gypsy E5 6b *  
241 Ramases Cubed 7b+  
242 Despicable Stampede linkup 6b+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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