Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 238
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces S

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Unknown climber at Lulworth Cove © gooding

Crag features

The Lulworth area lies at the heart of the Jurassic Coast, and is popular with visitors attracted by the remarkable scenery, fine coastal walks and beautiful beaches. For the climber the main event is the fantastic overhanging faces and architectural rock arches. The position of the walls perched above the sea not only adds atmosphere to the bolted climbing, but also allows great deep-water-soloing, for which the area has become renowned in recent years.

On the eastern side of Lulworth Cove itself is another climbing area - Lulworth East, which has some worthwhile sport and trad pitches that usually involve spectacular roof climbing. To the west of Lulworth Cove lies a high ridge of steep pinnacles (Dungy Head) and a huge boulder on the seashore known as Church Rock. These provide a complete contrast in style with generally easier, pocketed wall climbs that may be an attractive option when the arms can no longer lock-off at Stair Hole, or for those in search of easier grades. The final area is Durdle Door, with its famous and much-photographed arch, which is home to several sustained pump-outs.

Approach notes

Lulworth Cove is well signed from the town of Wool which is on the A352, between Wareham and Dorchester. The main crags are approached from the large car park (fee) in West Lulworth.

Dungy Head/Church Rock - Walk up the road, past the Cove Centre, and continue up the steep hill on the right. After 200m turn left up a hidden track, by a large double garage, just past Stair House and follow this steeply to gain a ridge. The routes are all approached from here.

Stair Hole - Walk up the road, past the Cove Centre, and continue over a ridge to descend into the Stair Hole basin. Do not bear left towards the telescope on the hill. 

Lulworth East - These are the cliffs situated on the far side of the main Lulworth Cove. 

Durdle Door - Durdle Door can easily be reached by walking over the hill from Lulworth. Alternatively you can park in the car park which is situated at the far side of Durdle Door campsite. There is a parking charge in the Summer but not in the Winter.

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Butter Rock
2 Butterfingers S 1
  Durdle Door
4 Durdle Door Traverse 6a ** 7
5 Silly Arête VD  
6 Arcwelder 7b *** 2
7 Riding to Babylon 7a+ *** 16
8 Sardine Liberation Front 6c+ S2 **  
9 They Call Me Tall Man 6b * 5
10 Unleash the Veins 7b+ ** 1
11 St. Oswald's Bay to Durdle Door Traverse 5c ** 4
12 Stormbringer
-
E2 5b 1
13 Exfoliator
-
E2 5b 1
  Dungy Head and Church Rock
15 Pickpocket 5a 2
16 Morris the Carnivore 6a+ 3
17 Beavis and Butthead 6a 8
18 One-Two, One-Two 7a * 3
19 Beers, Steers and Queers 6c+ * 12
20 Dungeons and Dragons 7a+ * 8
21 Shoes for my friends 6a+ * 10
22 Lost Souls 6a+ 2
23 Looking Through the Infinity Window 6c+ *** 9
24 Closing Time 7a+ ** 6
25 The Debt Collector 6b * 25
26 Wall of Feedback 6c+ * 21
27 Blow Me! 7a 17
28 Blow Daddy-O E3 5c * 7
29 House Nation 6c ** 39
30 B-Boys Rock 6b+ * 2
31 Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane 6b ** 41
32 Turn It On 7b * 16
  Church Rock Area - Bouldering
34 Coracle f6A * 3
35 Spitting Cobra f6C * 1
36 Cobra Crack f6A * 5
37 Cobra f6B+ * 7
38 Mongoose Groove f4+ * 13
39 Mongoose Arête f3 * 11
40 Arête of Nails f4+ * 11
41 Bed of Nails f6B ** 13
42 Shark Skin Prow f7A ** 1
43 Snout V1 2
44 Jawline V0  
45 Ecclesiophobia f6C * 1
46 Ecclesiophobia Extension f7A * 1
47 God is in the T.V. f6A * 1
48 Black Mass f6B+ * 1
49 Crown of Thorns f6B * 3
50 Grey Snapper f5+ * 13
51 Coke Can Arête f6B * 8
52 Wow Prow f7B *** 9
53 Bogey Face f6A * 8
54 Out of Sight f5+ * 13
55 Secret Identity f6A * 8
56 Incognito f5+ * 10
57 No name f3 * 12
58 Buoy in a Crack V1 2
59 The Dragon f7A+ *** 23
60 Left-hand Man f7A *** 16
61 Right-hand Man f7A *** 26
62 Pocket Man f6C ** 5
63 Pocket Rocket f6A ** 25
64 The Serpent f6C+ *** 5
65 Cloaca f5+ * 11
66 Wolf Cub f6C+ ** 3
67 Arch Stanton f4+ 5
68 Stanton Deliver f6C+ ** 1
69 The Eden Project f7A+ ** 2
70 Black Magic f4+ 6
71 Voodoo People f3 5
  Dungy Head Beach - Bouldering
73 Dungy Wall f4 * 13
74 Dungy Arête f4+ * 10
75 Dungy Arête, Sit-start f6A * 5
76 Awesome Arête f6B+ ** 3
77 Awesome Arête, Sit-start f6C+ *** 5
78 Jade River f7A * 2
79 St Oswald's Wall f5+ * 2
80 St Oswald's Arête f6C ** 2
81 Spanish Archer f6B+ * 2
82 Snail Slab f6A * 4
83 Snail Slab, Sit-start f6A * 2
84 Corsair f6B ** 2
Climb name Grade
85 Corsair, Sit-start f6B+ ** 5
86 Man O' War f6A+ ** 6
87 Man O' War, Sit-start f6C *** 4
88 Man O' War Arête f4+ * 4
89 Man O' War Arête, Sit-start f5+ ** 3
90 Two Metres Squared f5 12
91 Two By Two f5+ 10
92 Four Square Metres f4 6
93 Made from Girders f4+ * 7
94 Irn Bru Traverse f6A * 6
95 Frank Sidebottom f6A * 5
96 Front Bottom f6C 2
97 Back Bottom f6C ** 5
98 Big Bertha f5+ * 3
99 Hurricane Bertha f6B+ * 2
100 Junk in My Trunk f3 9
101 Junk Face f5+ * 12
102 Junk Arête f4+ * 6
103 Cat Power f7A ** 2
104 Jurassica f6A * 5
105 Static Crack f6A * 8
106 Peter Crouch f6B ** 3
107 Stick Stealer f6B ** 5
108 No Arête f6C ** 2
109 Cheese Arête f6B *** 10
110 Doing Time f7A * 1
111 Exfoliator f4+ 11
112 1000 Cuts Avoided * f7A ** 1
113 Slave * f5+ * 1
114 Pharaoh * f6B 1
115 Space Age f6C ** 1
116 Splits Apart * f6A 1
117 Twin Peaks Right * f6A 1
118 Twin Peaks Left f6B * 1
  Approaches and Laws Traverse
120 The Laws Traverse E1 6a ** 384
121 The Laws Traverse Low
-
6c ** 25
122 Laws Direct Start 7b S1 * 8
123 Trashy's Arête VS 4c 17
124 The Brotherhood E5 6b **  
125 The Walkin' Dude E4 5c 8
126 Skilfish E3 5b 1
127 Pocket Gulley
-
V2 3
128 The Shire V2 2
129 Rohan V1 1
130 Middle Earth
-
V2 3
131 East Cave Slab S 7
132 The Maypole HVS 5b *** 889
133 Bastion Traverse S * 7
134 Slab and Corner VD 3
135 Lewis VD 5
136 Thieving Gypsy E5 6b * 20
137 Imp of the Perverse E6 6b ** 3
  Stair Hole West Cave
139 Cheddar Direct VS 4c * 90
140 Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way E2 5c * 109
141 Crazy Notion E5 6b ** 96
142 Animal Magnetism 7a+ *** 307
143 Journey to Eternia 7c+ ** 3
144 Never Kneel to Skeletor 7c+ *** 1
145 Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy 8a ** 1
146 Hurbot the Turbot E4 6b * 26
147 Route 66 6a S1 * 5
148 Escobar 7a S0 * 6
149 Contortions 7a S1 * 1
150 El Guapo 7b+ S0 *** 11
151 El Diablo Suelto 7c S1 **  
152 And Now for Something Entirely Different 6a 4
153 Old Timer's Club 7b+ S1 ** 1
154 Lower than Whale Shit 6c+ S0 * 21
155 Last Season's Loozas 5a S1 ** 107
156 Skullthugery E6 6b *** 2
157 Gates of Greyskull 7b+ *** 113
158 Magnetic Gates 7c * 24
159 Magnetic Skulls E6 6b ** 1
160 The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats E4 6a * 4
161 Hairy Clamber VS 4c * 38
  Stair Hole East Cave
163 Captain Bastard Got There First E2 5c * 217
164 Despicable Terrier E3 6a * 41
165 Despicable Stampede Linkup 6b+ 5
166 Anarchy Stampede E3 6a * 60
167 Stagedivin' 7a+ * 38
168 I Love Eszta E3 5c 24
Climb name Grade
169 Window of Opportunity E5 6b ** 127
170 Hornier than Thou E6 6b ** 53
171 Sliding Down the Banister E4 6a * 44
172 Does Leviathan Plop Float? 6b+ * 19
173 Horny Lil' Devil 7a *** 548
174 Adrenochrome 8a *** 47
175 Lord of Darkness 7c ** 3
176 Mark of the Beast 7c *** 58
177 Burn Hollywood Burn 8a+ *** 2
178 Lulworth Arms Treaty 7b ** 17
179 Freed from Desire 7a+ * 8
180 Grimly Fiendish 7a * 10
181 Omega VS 3
  Link-ups
183 Windowchrome E7 6c *** 1
184 Pump up the Beast E7 6b *** 4
185 Horny Beast 7c *** 1
186 Stage Fright 7b * 7
187 Centre Stage 7b+ * 1
188 Z-Cars E6 6b * 70
189 Z Chrome 8a+ *** 3
190 Imp of the Reverse 7b+ ** 1
191 The Beast of Lulworth 7c ** 2
192 The Beast Goes East 7c ** 1
193 Taming the Beast 7b+ * 1
194 Beast Club 7c **  
195 Burning Arms 7c ** 2
196 The Roof Predator 7c+ ***  
  Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area
198 East Beach Slab S 5a * 1
199 Lulworth Cove - Mupe Bay Traverse VD ** 20
200 Traverse of the Fossils E2 5c ** 6
201 Plwmp S 3
202 Lesbian Spank Inferno E3 6a * 1
203 Recursion HVS 5a * 1
204 Ouzo Envy VS 4c * 3
205 Evening Slab S 4a ** 4
206 September Session
-
S 4
207 Lulworth New Order MVS 4b * 2
208 Cuzco E1 5b * 4
209 Ghost of You VS 4b 3
210 Evie E2 5b * 1
211 Stalinist Regime HVS 5a * 2
212 Southern Stutter E1 5a * 2
213 The Poet and the Thief VS 4b * 7
214 Mojo-Pin VS 5a ** 12
215 Mansion Pond E2 5b ** 4
216 Mankini Biscuit E2 5c ** 3
217 4 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you... E2 5b * 4
218 Fear of Litigation E1 5b * 3
219 Extraordinary Rendition E1 5c * 3
220 Hyperbole HVS 5a ** 9
221 MC Hammer VS 4c 4
222 Too Driven HS 6
223 Pussy Galore VS 4c * 9
224 Bad to the Bone 7b+ *  
225 Il Pirata 7c **  
226 Jurassic Coast Pimps E1 5b ** 4
227 Svengali E3 6a * 1
228 Bolt Free VS 4c * 7
229 Carbon Footprint HVS 5b 1
230 The Gift HVS 5b ** 7
231 Dry Your Eyes Mate 7c+ *  
232 Jay Kay HVS 4c * 2
  Amphitheatre Roofs
234 The Lemon Express 7b *  
235 Breathe the Pressure 7b+ **  
236 Ramases Cubed 7b+  
237 Granny Lifts Car 7b+ **  
238 Let Ya Bones Hang 7a * 2
239 Rigor Mortise 7a ** 1
240 A Storm in Heaven 7c ** 1
241 Eye of the Storm 7b+ ***  
242 Language of Nature 7b *  
243 Weld's Mother 4c 4
244 Monolith Monsters 7b+ **  
245 Mirrorball 7c ** 1
246 Shining Path 7a+ * 1
  Unsorted routes
248 The Safety Rail
-
E4 5c 2
249 Windy Corner VS 4c 1
250 Triple Traverse HS 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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