Climbs 78
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 61m a.s.l
Faces W

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Jo Hardy on Lunar Eclipse © redsteve

Crag features

Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Blacknor North is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line. It is the last of the Blancknor crags to get the sun.

Approach notes

Blacknor North is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

Walk towards the cliff-top path, and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old concrete-wall on the cliff edge, before the path drops down slightly into a quarried area. Locate a small path that drops steeply at a break in the cliff-line, and doubles back leftwards (facing out) down the hill. This leads down to the first routes on the Death of Cool Area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!
The Ivanator - 15/Jun/11
Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag. There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help
jonberry791 - 29/Apr/11
webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather : http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/webcams/weymouth_webcam.shtml
Jonathan Emett - 09/Sep/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far North
2 Reinheitsgebot 4a 21
3 Another One for the Pot 6a+ 12
4 Enlightenment HVS 5b 2
5 Slim Fingers' Revenge 7a * 8
6 Boiled Lobster 6b * 11
7 Mystery Stripper
-
5c 8
8 Ghost Writer
-
5c 6
9 Absolute Beginners 2a 23
10 Too Hard for Matt Ilott 3c 5
  Death of Cool Area
12 Chin Reaction 6c 3
13 San Andreas E1 5b  
14 Meltdown 7a ** 56
15 Quakin' in My Bones 7a+ * 13
16 Sellerfield 7b * 5
17 The Taylor Show 6a+ 24
18 Speleo Joy Toy VS 4b 2
19 Living the Dream 6b+ 2
20 Death of Cool 7a+ * 4
21 Drag Racing Underground 6c+ ** 31
22 Poppadom E1 5a 1
  Seattle Be the Day Area
24 Seattle be the Day 6b+ * 59
25 The Fabulous Bakery Boys 6c * 38
26 Captain Lob Meets the Nipple Pincher 6b ** 129
27 Grease Paint and Monkey Brains 6a * 216
28 Indian Summer 6a * 233
29 The Curler VS 4c * 1
Climb name Grade
30 Blowing Chunks 6c 10
31 Where's Blue Hippo 7a+ * 6
32 Beer and Corruption 7a * 49
33 Henry Rollins for President 7a+ 4
34 Shatter My Illusions but Don't Break My Heart VS 4a * 3
35 Wynona's Big Brown Beaver 6c 1
36 Ximenesque 6b+ 15
37 In Dust We Trust 6c+ 1
  Captain Klutz Area
39 Ironhead 7a+ ** 36
40 Meg's Got Leukaemia 6a ** 601
41 Cinema Paradiso 6a * 354
42 Skin Flick 7a 6
43 Captain Klutz and the Sailors of Fortune 6a * 413
44 Major Mushrooms and that Mentally Muffled Mentality 6c * 45
45 Unknown 6a 13
  Wolfgang Forever Area
47 Is Vic There? 7a ** 306
48 Sanfte Kuss 7a+ * 67
49 Wolfgang Forever 7a ** 424
50 Popeye Doyle 7c ** 21
51 French Connection UK 7b+ ** 25
52 Appleturnoverload 7a+ ** 210
53 Very Sleepy River 6b ** 684
54 Edge Hog 7a+ 13
55 Klepto Krack HVS 4c 2
56 Toes Curl 6c+ * 48
57 Freaky Ralph 8a+ ** 23
58 Aim High, Shoot Low 6a+ * 254
Climb name Grade
  Reptile Smile Area
60 Downtown Julie Brown 6c *** 825
61 Reptile Smile 6a+ *** 1713
62 Unnamed 5a * 20
63 Talking Smack 5c * 385
64 Slings Shot 5a *** 2161
65 Crocadilia 6a * 600
66 Spanner Eyes 7b ** 186
67 England's Dreaming 7a+ *** 663
68 Cake Walk 6a ** 1094
69 Dirt Track VS 4b  
70 The Tea-Cake Path 6b 71
71 California Hot Licks 6a+ 54
72 Doughnuts and Duvets 6b * 227
73 Apfel Strudel 6a 467
74 Dwarf Lops 6b+ 40
75 Suck, Don't Blow 6c * 33
76 Mother's Milk 6a ** 732
77 Do You Like Our Owls? 6b * 139
78 Hot From the Forge 7a * 58
79 Onto the Ice Flow 7a * 72
  Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown
81 Overture Chimney
-
HVS 5a 2
82 Resurgent Spirit of Loose
-
E1 5a 2
83 Deception
-
VS 4b 2
84 Subterfuge
-
VS 4b 2
85 High on the Richter Scale
-
E3 5c 1

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