UKC

Climbs 79
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Jo Hardy on Lunar Eclipse © redsteve

Crag features

Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Blacknor North is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line. It is the last of the Blancknor crags to get the sun.

Approach notes

Blacknor North is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

Walk towards the cliff-top path, and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old concrete-wall on the cliff edge, before the path drops down slightly into a quarried area. Locate a small path that drops steeply at a break in the cliff-line, and doubles back leftwards (facing out) down the hill. This leads down to the first routes on the Death of Cool Area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!
The Ivanator - 15/Jun/11
Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag. There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help
jonberry791 - 29/Apr/11
webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather : http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/webcams/weymouth_webcam.shtml
Jonathan Emett - 09/Sep/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far North
2 Reinheitsgebot 4a 19
3 Another One for the Pot 6a+ 11
4 Enlightenment HVS 5b 2
5 Slim Fingers' Revenge 7a * 7
6 Boiled Lobster 6b * 11
7 Mystery Stripper
-
5c 7
8 Ghost Writer
-
5c 5
9 Absolute Beginners 2a 20
10 No Name Corner 3c 4
11 Too Hard For Matt Ilott 3c  
  Death of Cool Area
13 Chin Reaction 6c 3
14 San Andreas E1 5b  
15 Meltdown 7a ** 54
16 Quakin' in My Bones 7a+ * 13
17 Sellerfield 7b * 5
18 The Taylor Show 6a+ 23
19 Speleo Joy Toy VS 4b 2
20 Living the Dream 6b+ 1
21 Death of Cool 7a+ * 4
22 Drag Racing Underground 6c+ ** 28
23 Poppadom E1 5a 1
  Seattle Be the Day Area
25 Seattle be the Day 6b+ * 50
26 The Fabulous Bakery Boys 6c * 31
27 Captain Lob Meets the Nipple Pincher 6b ** 113
28 Grease Paint and Monkey Brains 6a * 197
29 Indian Summer 6a * 213
Climb name Grade
30 The Curler VS 4c * 1
31 Blowing Chunks 6c 10
32 Where's Blue Hippo 7a+ * 5
33 Beer and Corruption 7a * 45
34 Henry Rollins for President 7a+ 4
35 Shatter My Illusions but Don't Break My Heart VS 4a * 3
36 Wynona's Big Brown Beaver 6c 1
37 Ximenesque 6b+ 14
38 In Dust We Trust 6c+ 1
  Captain Klutz Area
40 Ironhead 7a+ ** 35
41 Meg's Got Leukaemia 6a ** 540
42 Cinema Paradiso 6a * 317
43 Skin Flick 7a 5
44 Captain Klutz and the Sailors of Fortune 6a * 378
45 Major Mushrooms and that Mentally Muffled Mentality 6c * 43
46 Unknown 6a 13
  Wolfgang Forever Area
48 Is Vic There? 7a ** 260
49 Sanfte Kuss 7a+ * 58
50 Wolfgang Forever 7a ** 365
51 Popeye Doyle 7c ** 11
52 French Connection UK 7b+ ** 21
53 Appleturnoverload 7a+ ** 183
54 Very Sleepy River 6b ** 594
55 Edge Hog 7a+ 13
56 Klepto Krack HVS 4c 2
57 Toes Curl 6c+ * 43
58 Freaky Ralph 8a+ ** 12
Climb name Grade
59 Aim High, Shoot Low 6a+ * 225
  Reptile Smile Area
61 Downtown Julie Brown 6c *** 711
62 Reptile Smile 6a+ *** 1487
63 Unnamed 5a * 16
64 Talking Smack 5c * 356
65 Slings Shot 5a *** 1890
66 Crocadilia 6a * 498
67 Spanner Eyes 7b ** 160
68 England's Dreaming 7a+ *** 564
69 Cake Walk 6a ** 949
70 Dirt Track VS 4b  
71 The Tea-Cake Path 6b 60
72 California Hot Licks 6a+ 47
73 Doughnuts and Duvets 6b * 193
74 Apfel Strudel 6a 417
75 Dwarf Lops 6b+ 38
76 Suck, Don't Blow 6c * 31
77 Mother's Milk 6a ** 625
78 Do You Like Our Owls? 6b * 122
79 Hot From the Forge 7a * 54
80 Onto the Ice Flow 7a * 64
  Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown
82 Overture Chimney
-
HVS 5a 2
83 Resurgent Spirit of Loose
-
E1 5a 2
84 Deception
-
VS 4b 2
85 Subterfuge
-
VS 4b 2
86 High on the Richter Scale
-
E3 5c 1

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