Climbs 78
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Jo Hardy on Lunar Eclipse © redsteve

Crag features

Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!
The Ivanator - 15/Jun/11
Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag. There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help
jonberry791 - 29/Apr/11
webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather : http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/webcams/weymouth_webcam.shtml
Jonathan Emett - 09/Sep/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far North
2 Reinheitsgebot 4a 18
3 Another One for the Pot 6a+ 11
4 Slim Fingers' Revenge 7a * 7
5 Boiled Lobster 6b * 11
6 Mystery Stripper
-
5c 7
7 Ghost Writer
-
5c 5
8 Absolute Beginners 2a 20
9 No Name Corner 3c 4
  Death of Cool Area
11 Chin Reaction 6c 3
12 Meltdown 7a ** 47
13 Quakin' in My Bones 7a+ * 13
14 Sellerfield 7b * 5
15 The Taylor Show 6a+ 20
16 Living the Dream 6b+ 1
17 Death of Cool 7a+ * 4
18 Drag Racing Underground 6c+ ** 25
  Seattle Be the Day Area
20 Seattle be the Day 6b+ * 49
21 The Fabulous Bakery Boys 6c * 29
22 Captain Lob Meets the Nipple Pincher 6b ** 109
23 Grease Paint and Monkey Brains 6a * 189
24 Indian Summer 6a * 205
25 Blowing Chunks 6c 10
26 Where's Blue Hippo 7a+ * 5
27 Beer and Corruption 7a * 56
28 Henry Rollins for President 7a+ 4
29 Wynona's Big Brown Beaver 6c 1
30 Ximenesque 6b+ 14
31 In Dust We Trust 6c+ 1
  Captain Klutz Area
33 Ironhead 7a+ ** 31
34 Meg's Got Leukaemia 6a ** 517
35 Cinema Paradiso 6a * 294
36 Skin Flick 7a 4
37 Captain Klutz and the Sailors of Fortune 6a * 365
38 Major Mushrooms and that Mentally Muffled Mentality 6c * 40
39 Unknown 6a 10
  Wolfgang Forever Area
41 Is Vic There? 7a ** 255
42 Sanfte Kuss 7a+ * 40
43 Wolfgang Forever 7a ** 363
44 Popeye Doyle 7c ** 7
45 French Connection UK 7b+ ** 17
46 Appleturnoverload 7a+ ** 176
47 Very Sleepy River 6b ** 545
48 Edge Hog 7a+ 11
49 Toes Curl 6c+ * 37
50 Freaky Ralph 8a+ ** 11
51 Aim High, Shoot Low 6a+ * 209
  Reptile Smile Area
53 Downtown Julie Brown 6c *** 664
54 Reptile Smile 6a+ *** 1447
55 Unnamed 5a * 14
56 Talking Smack 5c * 352
57 Slings Shot 5a *** 1792
58 Crocadilia 6a * 452
59 Spanner Eyes 7b ** 155
60 England's Dreaming 7a+ *** 620
61 Cake Walk 6a ** 878
62 The Tea-Cake Path 6b 53
63 California Hot Licks 6a+ 37
64 Doughnuts and Duvets 6b * 176
65 Apfel Strudel 6a 389
66 Dwarf Lops 6b+ 34
67 Suck, Don't Blow 6c * 29
68 Mother's Milk 6a ** 601
69 Do You Like Our Owls? 6b * 115
70 Hot From the Forge 7a * 54
71 Onto the Ice Flow 7a * 69
  Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown
73 Overture Chimney
-
HVS 5a 2
74 The Curler VS 4c * 1
75 Dirt Track VS 4b  
76 San Andreas E1 5b  
77 Resurgent Spirit of Loose
-
E1 5a 2
78 Enlightenment HVS 5b 2
79 Deception
-
VS 4b 2
80 Subterfuge
-
VS 4b 2
81 High on the Richter Scale
-
E3 5c 1
82 Speleo Joy Toy VS 4b 2
83 Poppadom E1 5a 1
84 Klepto Krack HVS 4c 2
85 Shatter My Illusions but Don't Break My Heart VS 4a * 3

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