UKC

Climbs 27
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces SE

Slipshod belaying © phantom whistler

Crag features

Short Steep Routes where gear requires a little though in places. Quite hard if damp and in rough seas the ledges can become a little sea washed but are generally OK. Wonderful relaxed spot away from the crowds.

Approach notes

Head west up and over Winspit quarry and along the coast path passing a stone seat on the headland for approx 400m, passing a narrowing bushy part of the path until you reach the start of some wooden fence post on the left. Descend a small vegitated slope for 10m until the semi-vegitated topout ledge on left-hand side appears. There is a large pointed boulder and a good thread on the loose looking back wall. The abseil desecent is down the line of Query at the right-hand end of the ledge (looking out to sea). There are two abseil stakes (one rusty) which appear OK at the far left-hand end above the route The Corner.

Other routes can belay from the abseil boulder, the stakes or good nuts in the back wall - just look carefully as it's quite loose in places.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the area west of Slippery Ledge.

The loose block in the exit groove of "Dorset Non-Rhyming Slang" (mentioned in the old CC guide description) is no longer there, after being inadvertently trundled on 28.06.13 ...nobody was injured :-)
The Ivanator - 02/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sutton
2 Punish None
-
VS 4c  
3 Anagram
-
S 4a  
4 Dogleg
-
VS 4c  
5 Fifteen to One
-
D  
6 Much Ado...
-
HVS 5a *  
7 Scraping the Barrel
-
VD  
8 Ho Ho Ho
-
VD  
  Slippery Ledge
10 Ruth
-
VS 4b 2
Climb name Grade
11 Jackie
-
HVS 5a 5
12 Nautilus
-
HS 4b 9
13 Octopus
-
HVS 5b 5
14 Query
-
HS 4b 17
15 Dorset Non-Rhyming Slang
-
HS 4b 18
16 Lunar
-
S 38
17 Magic
-
HVS 5a 5
18 Cuboid
-
VS 4c 14
19 Alternate Angle
-
HS 4b 3
20 Parallel Lines
-
VS 4c 9
Climb name Grade
21 Moonshine
-
VS 4b 6
22 The Corner
-
HS 4b ** 47
23 Ciao Pupa
-
E3 6a/b 1
24 Ozymandias
-
E2 5c  
25 La Rue sans Issue
-
HVS 5b  
26 Gymslip
-
HS 4b 6
27 Slipshod
-
VS 4b 4
28 All Square
-
VS 4c  
29 Cosmic Cabbage
-
HS 4b 1

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