Climbs 25
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces SE

Slipshod belaying © phantom whistler

Crag features

[OS Lanranger reference would help - UKC Ed]

Short Steep Routes where gear requires a little though in places. Quite hard if damp and in rough seas the ledges can become a little sea washed but are generally OK. Wonderful relaxed spot away from the crowds.

Approach notes

Head west up and over Winspit quarry and along the coast path passing a stone seat on the headland for approx 400m, passing a narrowing bushy part of the path until you reach the start of some wooden fence post on the left. descend a small vegitated slope for 10m until the semi vegitated top out ledge on left hand side appears. There is a large pointed boulder and a good thread on the loose looking back wall. The abseil desecent is dowm the line of "Query" at the right hand end of the ledge (looking out to sea). There are two abseil stakes( one rusty) which appeear OK at the far lefty hand end above the route " The Corner", buit need seeking out due to flora.

Other routes can belay from the abseil boulder, the stakes or good nuts in the back wall:- just look carefully as its quite loose in places.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the area west of Slippery Ledge.

The loose block in the exit groove of "Dorset Non-Rhyming Slang" (mentioned in the old CC guide description) is no longer there, after being inadvertently trundled on 28.06.13 ...nobody was injured :-)
The Ivanator - 02/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ruth
VS 4b 2
2 Jackie
HVS 5a 5
3 Nautilus
HS 4b 7
4 Octopus
HVS 5b 5
5 Query
HS 4b 15
6 Dorset Non-Rhyming Slang
HS 4b 18
7 Lunar
S 34
8 Magic
HVS 5a 5
9 Cuboid
VS 4c 14
10 Alternate Angle
HS 4b 3
11 Parallel Lines
VS 4c 9
12 Moonshine
VS 4b 6
13 The Corner
HS 4b ** 43
14 Ciao Pupa
E3 6a/b 1
15 Ozymandias
E2 5c  
16 Gymslip
HS 4b 6
17 Slipshod
VS 4b 4
18 Cosmic Cabbage
HS 4b 1

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