Climbs 19
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 7m a.s.l
Faces S

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Giving it beans on The Hump © Mike Goldthorp

Crag features

The diminutive caves of Tilly Whim are short, on good, rock, and are mostly set above good water. The region is more famous for the now banned Tilly Whim quarried caves, found over the big brick wall immediately to the east, and the two venues are often confused.

Also notable are the natural sea walls found below the upper brick wall; these offer good bouldering and a perfect warm up.

Approach notes

Park at Durlston Country Park and follow the road towards Anvil Point Lighthouse. Follow a path downhill past a couple of mile marker masts. At the coast turn right (looking out) and drop into a valley.

Access Banned

Climbing is not permitted from the caves to Durlston Head of Tilly Whim Quarry for conservation and safety reasons.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tilly Whim West
2 Cracked
-
HS 4b 1
3 Smithereen
-
HS 4b 1
4 Splinter
-
HS 4b 1
5 New Route
-
XS 6a 1
6 Turkish Delight 6b+ ** 2
7 Numb Bum 6b+ 1
Climb name Grade
8 Slap ya' Dromedary
-
6a * 21
9 The Hump 7b * 11
10 Shrimp Crimp
-
6b 1
11 Camel Filter 6a+ ** 19
12 Llama Roundabout
-
6a+ * 2
  Tilly Whim Bouldering
14 Whim-Wham f5+ * 3
Climb name Grade
15 A Sprag to Catch a Mackerel f6A+ * 3
16 Tilly Warmer f3 3
17 Whimsical f3 * 3
18 High Groove f5+ * 3
19 On a Whim f5 * 3
20 Edges and Ledges f4+ * 3
21 Tilly Ramp f5+ * 3

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