Climbs 13
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Giving it beans on The Hump © Mike Goldthorp

Crag features

The diminutive caves of Tilly Whim are short, on good, rock, and are mostly set above good water. The region is more famous for the now banned Tilly Whim quarried caves, found over the big brick wall immediately to the east, and the two venues are often confused. Also notable are the natural sea walls found below the upper brick wall; these offer good bouldering and a perfect warm up.

Approach notes

The solo area itself is not part of the year round ban on the quarry, but it carries a seasonal bird restriction, which operates March 1st to July 31st inclusive. From Subliminal, walk east along coast path. Walk down the slope beyond the lighthouse and drop down rightwards, to gain lower ledges. This is the gearing up spot for all routes here. You'll need calm seas and a mid to high tide here.

Access Banned

Climbing is not permitted from the caves to Durlston Head of Tilly Whim Quarry for conservation and safety reasons.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tilly Whim West
2 Camel Filter XS 5c * 18
3 Slap ya Dromedary
-
E1 5b 18
4 Llama Roundabout
-
XS 5c * 1
5 The Hump 7b *** 10
6 Numb Bum / Turkish Delight 6b+ ** 1
  Tilly Whim Bouldering
8 Whim-Wham f5+ * 1
9 A Sprag to Catch a Mackerel f6A+ * 1
10 Tilly Warmer f3 1
11 Whimsical f3 * 1
12 High Groove f5+ * 1
13 On a Whim f5 * 1
14 Edges and Ledges f4+ * 1
15 Tilly Ramp f5+ * 1

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