Climbs 105
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Phil Belcher Swinging off Twangy Pearl © Phil Belcher

Crag features

Blacknor Central is the least popular of the Blacknor cliffs offering a series of broken walls but with some great routes dotted along its length.

Blacknor Central is a good late-morning sun venues. There is little seepage, apart from a few drainage streaks on the Niagara Wall section of the Go With The Flow Area. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.

Approach notes

Blacknor Central is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South. Blacknor Central is accessed by a small track that contours underneath the crags eventually joining up with the path beneath Blacknor North.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
Whoever said "faces south-east and is a good morning sun venue" must be geographically challenged. It faces west and is a good afternoon venue!
silhouette - 13/Sep/15
There is a new easy area by the sea called 'Lunar Park' - grades range from 2 - 5+. Descend directly below Boilermaker along the faint scree path. Two very large bolted boulders exist giving around a dozen routes. The largest boulder is seaward facing and lashed by rough seas and hight tide. A good venue if the other slabs further south are crowded - have fun...
JIMBO - 12/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Hysterical Solitude Area
2 Imbolc 7b * 34
3 The Hong Jagged Flake of Death (Retired) 6b+ * 5
4 Distanced 6b+ 12
5 Dudas sin nombres 6b+ * 82
6 Dreamer HVS 5a  
7 When This Hits the Fan 6b+ * 116
8 Shit Happens, Actually 6a ** 1009
9 Unstuck on You (Flowstone Shuffle) 7b 25
10 21.5 Weeks 6b+ * 90
11 Birthday Girl 5c 244
12 Bag End 5c * 37
13 Divine Comedy 5a 89
14 I Don't Have a Spoiler so I Just Leave My Boot Open 6b * 36
15 Hysterical Solitude 6c * 88
16 Crucifix Kiss 7c ** 23
17 Choc Speedway 6b+ * 103
18 Nothing is Cool 6c ** 101
19 Protein Delta Strip 6c ** 75
20 That Honeycomb Centre 7a 28
21 Kit Kat 6b ** 306
22 Whilst the Cat's Away 7a+ * 23
23 The Launch 7b+ * 5
  Monsoon Malabar Area
25 Struggling Jim VS 4c  
26 Fat Falling Pigs 6b * 203
27 Twangy Pearl 7b *** 129
28 Boilermaker 7c ** 13
29 Into the Sun 6c * 26
30 Second's Swing HVS 5a  
31 Poison Tip E1 5b  
32 Bring on the Night 6c+ * 36
33 Does Trunky Want a Bun? 6b+ * 27
34 Monsoon Malabar 6a ** 776
35 Nomad VS 4c  
36 Inbreeding 6b 24
37 We Are Not Men, We Are Roto 6c 3
Climb name Grade
38 The Stals on Me Pal 7a 5
39 Mirage HVS 5a  
40 Toothless Vampire 7b 4
41 Fond Farewell
-
E1 5b  
  Pregnant Pause Area
43 Keeping Abreast of Things 6b+ 2
44 Paws for Thought 6b+ * 27
45 Pregnant Pause 6a+ *** 901
46 Big Corner HVS 4b 2
47 Suenos de España 7a+ * 4
48 Valerian 6a * 236
49 Viper's Tale 7a+ * 7
50 Natural Born Drillers 6c * 12
51 Solstice Arête 7a+ 1
52 Flake Out VS 4c 3
53 The Long Walk 6c ** 142
54 Mexican Stand-off 7a+ ** 28
55 Madame Butterfly 6a+ 8
56 One Fine Day 6a+ * 123
57 Dust in the Wind 5c * 12
58 The Prow E1 5b  
  Go With the Flow and Niagra Area
60 Skank Central 6b+ * 65
61 Bob's Big Mistake HVS 4c 2
62 Slim Jim S 4a 2
63 Summer Wine 6a ** 3
64 Last of the Summer Wine
-
HVS 5a 4
65 Last of the Summer Wine (Sport) 5c ** 6
66 Go With the Flow 6a ** 452
67 Ocean Rock 6c+ ** 82
68 Pedestal Crack HS 1
69 The Thin Edge of the Wedge 6a+ * 3
70 Rise of Iron 6a+ 5
71 Best Destiny 4c ** 512
72 Aeroforce 7b ** 3
73 Blame it on the Drain 7a+ * 1
74 Niagara Wall 7a * 3
Climb name Grade
75 Dizzy up the Girl 7a+ ** 10
76 Gaze of the Gorgon 6a+ ** 184
  Portland Heights Area
78 Sniffin' Glue 7a+ * 4
79 Insistence
-
HS 4b 4
80 Athenian Tactics 7b+ * 14
81 Corinthian Spirit 7b+ ** 2
82 Cybernetic Orchard 7a+ ** 53
83 I Walk the Line 7b ** 68
84 Portland Heights 7a *** 248
85 Grand Larceny 7a+ * 7
86 Burning Skies 6b+ *** 338
87 Isle of Slingers 6c+ ** 150
88 Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation 6b+ *** 491
89 Gone Amongst Innocent Angels 6b ** 44
90 Up Lift Finish 6b+ ** 8
91 Dusty Bedrock in need of Careful Preparation 7a+ * 19
92 Persistence HS 4a * 3
93 Cocteau Phenomena 7b+ *** 67
94 The Chronicles of Vladimir 6c+ 35
95 Ausfahrt 6b+ ** 226
  Return to Roissy Area
97 Port Wine
-
VS 4c 4
98 Screw the Roses, Send me the Thorns 7a+ * 52
99 The Shells, The Shells 7a * 42
100 Driven Like the Snow 6b+ ** 198
101 Return to Roissy 6b+ ** 351
102 Daydream Believer 6c+ ** 31
103 Last Rose of Summer 7a ** 220
104 Through the Barricades 7a+ ** 139
105 Step away from the Gingga 7a * 55
106 Babelicious Redhead 6c * 208
107 Chasing the Sun 6c+ 58
108 Jezabel Spirit E1 5b  
109 The Angry Sea 6c 57
110 The Wrecked Finger 6a+ 207
111 Blockhead HS 4b * 8

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