UKC

Climbs 99
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

Phil Belcher Swinging off Twangy Pearl © Phil Belcher

Crag features

Blacknor Central faces south-west and is a good afternoon-sun venue. It suffers from dusty rock in places but many of the lines are on good flowstone and pocketed walls. A good place to check out if Blacknor North is busy.

 

Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south-west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Whoever said "faces south-east and is a good morning sun venue" must be geographically challenged. It faces west and is a good afternoon venue!
silhouette - 13/Sep/15
There is a new easy area by the sea called 'Lunar Park' - grades range from 2 - 5+. Descend directly below Boilermaker along the faint scree path. Two very large bolted boulders exist giving around a dozen routes. The largest boulder is seaward facing and lashed by rough seas and hight tide. A good venue if the other slabs further south are crowded - have fun...
JIMBO - 12/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Hysterical Solitude Area
2 Imbolc 7b * 29
3 The Hong Jagged Flake of Death (Retired) 6b+ * 5
4 Distanced 6b+ 10
5 Dudas sin nombres 6b+ * 75
6 Dreamer HVS 5a  
7 When This Hits the Fan 6b+ * 95
8 Shit Happens, Actually 6a ** 943
9 Unstuck on You (Flowstone Shuffle) 7b 22
10 21.5 Weeks 6b+ * 82
11 Bag End 5c * 27
12 Birthday Girl 5c 214
13 Divine Comedy 5a 74
14 I Don't Have a Spoiler so I Just Leave My Boot Open 6b * 28
15 Hysterical Solitude 6c * 77
16 Crucifix Kiss 7c ** 20
17 Choc Speedway 6b+ * 91
18 Nothing is Cool 6c ** 96
19 Protein Delta Strip 6c ** 63
20 That Honeycomb Centre 7a 26
21 Kit Kat 6b ** 278
22 Whilst the Cat's Away 7a+ * 22
23 The Launch 7b+ * 5
24 Struggling Jim VS 4c  
  Monsoon Malabar Area
26 Fat Falling Pigs 6b * 160
27 Twangy Pearl 7b *** 108
28 Boilermaker 7c ** 13
29 Into the Sun 6c * 24
30 Second's Swing HVS 5a  
31 Poison Tip E1 5b  
32 Bring on the Night 6c+ * 33
33 Does Trunky Want a Bun? 6b+ * 25
34 Monsoon Malabar 6a ** 686
35 Inbreeding 6b 24
Climb name Grade
36 Nomad VS 4c  
37 We Are Not Men, We Are Roto 6c 2
38 The Stals on Me Pal 7a 5
39 Mirage HVS 5a  
40 Toothless Vampire 7b 4
  Pregnant Pause Area
42 Fond Farewell
-
E1 5b  
43 Keeping Abreast of Things 6b+ 2
44 Paws for Thought 6b+ * 22
45 Pregnant Pause 6a+ *** 878
46 Big Corner HVS 4b 2
47 Suenos de España 7a+ * 2
48 Valerian 6a * 209
49 Viper's Tale 7a+ * 7
50 Natural Born Drillers 6c * 11
51 Flake Out VS 4c 3
52 The Long Walk 6c ** 107
53 Mexican Stand-off 7a+ ** 24
54 Madame Butterfly 6a+ 2
55 One Fine Day 6a+ * 97
56 Dust In The Wind 5c * 1
  Go With the Flow and Niagra Area
58 Skank Central 6b+ * 55
59 Bob's Big Mistake HVS 4c 2
60 Slim Jim S 4a 2
61 Last of the Summer Wine
-
HVS 5a 2
62 Go With the Flow 6a ** 423
63 Ocean Rock 6c+ ** 73
64 Pedestal Crack HS  
65 The Thin Edge of The Wedge 6a+ * 1
66 Rise of Iron 6a+ 1
67 Best Destiny 4c ** 411
68 Aeroforce 7b ** 2
69 Blame it on the Drain 7a+ * 1
70 Niagara Wall 7a * 3
Climb name Grade
71 Dizzy up the Girl 7a+ ** 7
72 Gaze of the Gorgon 6a+ ** 138
  Portland Heights Area
74 Sniffin' Glue 7a+ * 3
75 Insistence
-
HS 4b 4
76 Athenian Tactics 7b+ * 11
77 Corinthian Spirit 7b+ ** 1
78 Cybernetic Orchard 7a+ ** 36
79 I Walk the Line 7b ** 42
80 Portland Heights 7a *** 180
81 Grand Larceny 7a+ * 4
82 Burning Skies 6b+ *** 312
83 Isle of Slingers 6c+ ** 112
84 Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation 6b+ *** 360
85 Gone Amongst Innocent Angels 6b ** 5
86 Up Lift finish 6b+ ** 2
87 Dusty Bedrock in need of Careful Preparation 7a+ * 14
88 Persistence HS 4a * 3
89 Cocteau Phenomena 7b+ *** 50
90 The Chronicles of Vladimir 6c+ 27
91 Ausfahrt 6b+ ** 181
92 Port Wine
-
VS 4c 4
  Return to Roissy Area
94 Screw the Roses, Send me the Thorns 7a+ * 42
95 The Shells, The Shells 7a * 34
96 Driven Like the Snow 6b+ ** 172
97 Return to Roissy 6b+ ** 297
98 Daydream Believer 6c+ ** 17
99 Last Rose of Summer 7a ** 182
100 Through the Barricades 7a+ ** 111
101 Step away from the Gingga 7a * 43
102 Babelicious Redhead 6c * 162
103 Chasing the Sun 6c+ 46
104 The Angry Sea 6c 46
105 The Wrecked Finger 6a+ 142

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