Climbs 99
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

Phil Belcher Swinging off Twangy Pearl © Phil Belcher

Crag features

Blacknor Central faces south-west and is a good afternoon-sun venue. It suffers from dusty rock in places but many of the lines are on good flowstone and pocketed walls. A good place to check out if Blacknor North is busy.


Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south-west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

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The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Whoever said "faces south-east and is a good morning sun venue" must be geographically challenged. It faces west and is a good afternoon venue!
silhouette - 13/Sep/15
There is a new easy area by the sea called 'Lunar Park' - grades range from 2 - 5+. Descend directly below Boilermaker along the faint scree path. Two very large bolted boulders exist giving around a dozen routes. The largest boulder is seaward facing and lashed by rough seas and hight tide. A good venue if the other slabs further south are crowded - have fun...
JIMBO - 12/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

 Pregnant Pause Area 
36Keeping Abreast of Things6b+ 2
37Paws for Thought6b+ *22
38Pregnant Pause6a+ ***776
39Suenos de EspaƱa7a+ *2
40Valerian6a *207
41Viper's Tale7a+ *7
42Natural Born Drillers6c *11
43The Long Walk6c **109
44Mexican Stand-off7a+ **26
45One Fine Day6a+ *84
 Go With the Flow and Niagra Area 
47Skank Central6b+ *53
48Go With the Flow6a **379
49Ocean Rock6c+ **74
50The Thin Edge of The Wedge6a+ *1
51Rise of Iron6a+ 1
52Best Destiny4c **399
53Aeroforce7b **2
54Blame it on the Drain7a+ *1
55Niagara Wall7a *3
56Dizzy up the Girl7a+ **7
57Gaze of the Gorgon6a+ **139
 Portland Heights Area 
59Sniffin' Glue7a+ *3
60Athenian Tactics7b+ *10
61Corinthian Spirit7b+ **1
62Cybernetic Orchard7a+ **38
63I Walk the Line7b **44
64Portland Heights7a ***208
65Grand Larceny7a+ *4
66Burning Skies6b+ ***270
67Isle of Slingers6c+ **114
68Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation6b+ ***357
69Dusty Bedrock in need of Careful Preparation7a+ *17
70PersistenceHS 4a *2
71Cocteau Phenomena7b+ ***55
72The Chronicles of Vladimir6c+ 26
73Ausfahrt6b+ **171
 Return to Roissy Area 
75Screw the Roses, Send me the Thorns7a+ *38
76The Shells, The Shells7a *32
77Driven Like the Snow6b+ **166
78Return to Roissy6b+ **270
79Daydream Believer6c+ **13
80Last Rose of Summer7a **190
81Through the Barricades7a+ **112
82Step away from the Gingga7a *41
83Babelicious Redhead6c *154
84Chasing the Sun6c+ 45
85The Angry Sea6c 44
86The Wrecked Finger6a+ 113
 Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown 
88Big CornerHVS 4b 2
89Flake OutVS 4c 2
90Bob's Big MistakeHVS 4c 2
91Slim JimS 4a 2
92Last of the Summer Wine
HVS 5a 2
HS 4b 2
94Port Wine
VS 4c 4
95Fond Farewell
E1 5b  
96DreamerHVS 5a  
97Struggling JimVS 4c  
98Second's SwingHVS 5a  
99Poison TipE1 5b  
100NomadVS 4c  
101MirageHVS 5a  
102Pedestal CrackHS  

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