Climbs 18
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 256m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Approaching the crux © RD

Crag features

The continuation of Stanhope Dene higher up the valley past Residential Evil section leads to a series of walls a few metres from the track which rise up to 15m in height. The crag comprises a number of walls, corners and aretes which, in older days formed the quarry bays. Whilst close to the road the intervining ground is both boggy and quite often flooded and leads to the formation of large pools after heavy rain. This means access is generally achieved by keeping close to the crag base.

The crag is quite unusual as above the limestone is a sandstone cliff although this is too broken to climb. The limestone is very solid and fortunately the band of poor rock that is promient on many climbs at the neighbouring Dene is absent. 

Reedside Buttress dries quickly after any rain and the lefthand side is rarely wet.

Approach notes

Take the B6278 towards Crawleyside and, just before the bend, take the small dean road opposite the lorry escape lane. This leads you past Stanhope Dene (Dean) which is off to the right of the track.

 

Drive past a parking spot and take the road going slightly down and follow this for 1 km passing the top of Brachiopod Wall and a further quarry off to your right. 

Just after a section where the bank on the left has collapsed the road widens and the walls are clearly visible on the right. Step from the car and cross the grass on a prepared path opposite Skywalker Buttress, avoiding getting wet feet by skirting away from the reeds/lake. Approach time 30 seconds.

 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Reedside Wall
2 Groovy Lakeside Party 6a+ ** 7
3 Rich's Fine Arete 6b+ *** 7
4 Tomorrow's Lies 6b *** 9
5 Snowdrop 6a+ ** 8
6 Sledge on By 6b *** 12
7 Bloc from Heaven 6b ** 8
Climb name Grade
8 Sick Puppy 6b ** 7
  Skywalker Buttress
10 Death Star 5c * 6
11 The Last Jedi 6a+ *** 9
12 The Clone Wars 6a * 7
13 Bunny Hop 6b+ *** 7
14 Lightsaber 6a+ *** 6
Climb name Grade
15 R2D2 6b+ 2
16 The Force Awakens 6c+ *** 8
17 Darth Vader 6b+ *** 10
18 Solo Arete 6c ** 6
19 Wookie Wall 6a *** 10
20 Imperial Storm Trooper 6a ** 9

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