Climbs 53
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 86m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The crag is an old quarry developed for climbing by Ian Rea, Calvin Torrens and Claire Sheridan. The descriptions and crag shots contained here are from An Ian Rea Facebook entry on Irish Climbers. The site has been used as a rubbish dump and has a Giant Hogweed problem AND BE AWARE IT IS VERY DANGEROUS IN CONTACT WITH SKIN.

Approach notes

Take the road from Newry to Ballyholland. This is at the roundabout in Newry, either just before the Warrenpoint junction, coming from Belfast, or just after the Warrenpoint junction, coming from Dublin. Go up Courtney Hill/Ballyholland Rd., turn right at Moorhill Rd. After about a quarter of a mile the houses on the right give way to fencing around the quarry. Park at the big, locked, double gates. There should be a combination padlock o  the gates. The combination is 3544. You may park inside the gates, and as lso use the shelters in the yard at here.

Look round the gates on the left and walk over rightwards to find cliff. Access is down and left. It won't take much effort to find a tunnel in the gorse, cut by us, which gives easy access and simple scrambling down an easy angled buttress.

Alternatively you can keep left from the gates following the old quarry service road down. Then when it joins another track turn right and follow into the quarry past the SWAT airsoft hut and payment area.

Guide here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt

 

Access Advice

MOORHILL QUARRY, NEWRY

Below is a statement from MI regarding Moorhill quarry in Newry. There will hopefully be further on this in the not too distant future. May 2019.

'Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at Moorhill Quarry is as it is at other crags, the quarry is there, there is no formal access agreed for climbing, the only party that can stop people climbing is the Council that owns the quarry. Climbers are of course expected to act responsibly in terms of their own safety, and in their engagement with the quarry environment, with other users of the quarry and with people living nearby.

UPDATE JULY 2019 AnRuaRi

A SoftAir club has started operating in this quarry, on Saturday and Sunday each week with expansion planned.

They have fenced off the easy pedestrian access routes from both the gate listed above and the vehicle entrance at the bottom of the quarry.  These are by-passable.

Advertised soft air times are 9am - 5pm. SAT & SUN from 25th June 2019.  The operator states that climbing on most of the walls would be outside the danger zone due to the short range of the air guns used, and climbers are welcome.

He has given a code to a padlock to the resr gate to local climbers (see below)

The company page is facebook.com/NewrySWAT

Further update on Moor Hill Quarry 11 July 2019: 

Peter, the owner of the gun and airsoft club has placed a pad lock on the upper gate and has made the code available and asked that it is shared with other climbers so that we can use it as a car park.

The code is 3544 (I'll have UKC updated).

He will have someone spray the weeds to make the parking area larger and to combat the giant hog weed. He is also happy if we use their shed at the top.

I'm not fully in the loop with the access situation but he stated that he was more than happy to share the area with climbers and is grand for climbing to take place while they are air softing...

On the issue of health and safety he said they are using low pressure guns that are out of range of the rock faces and have conciously errected their shooting area away from the rock. There may be 5-6 routes on the far side of the quarry you may wish to be careful of if they are airsofting but the other ~45 should be ok. From Michael Murphy on Irish climbers Facebook group 

 

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Guide here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt
RKernan - 15/Aug/19
Guide here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt
RKernan - 15/Aug/19
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Iron Hawk Area
2 Stick It To The Man E2 5b  
3 Colt * E3 5c 2
4 Iron Hawk E4 6a  
5 Buckshot E3 5c  
6 Winchester E3 6a  
7 Celandine
-
S 4a  
8 No Cross No Crown E1 5b  
9 Flamingos Fly E1 5b  
  Heather Blazing Area
11 Shelmalier E2 5b  
12 The Heather Blazing E2 5b 4
13 The Hurler on the Ditch
-
HVS 5a  
14 Fields of Gold * E1 5a  
15 Georgia Peach E2 6a  
  Ride Lonesome Area
17 The Land of Spices
-
VS 4c  
18 Ride Lonesome E3 5c 1
19 Sideways
-
HS 4a  
20 Roughing It E1 5b  
Climb name Grade
21 Fleur du Mal E2 5c  
  Buster Scruggs Area
23 The Goodseed HVS 5a 1
24 One Step Up
-
HVS 5a 3
25 Scarlet Elves E2 5c *** 2
26 Rising Tide HVS 4c 8
27 Jambalaya
-
HS 4b 2
28 Feabhran VS 4c  
29 Buster Scruggs HS 4b 3
30 Hugin
-
VS 4c  
31 Munin
-
S 4a 2
32 Six and Six
-
S 4a  
  Sullivan's Travel Area
34 Curmudgeon VS 4c  
35 Old Guard VS 4c 1
36 Randolph Scott HS 4b  
37 And The Sweetness Thereof HS 4b 4
38 The Triffids S 4a 7
39 Sullivan's Travels E2 5c 1
40 The Reapers HVS 4b  
Climb name Grade
41 Shuffle
-
S 4a 2
42 Society Max
-
HS 4b 1
  No Alibi Area
44 Jigsaw HVS 5a 3
45 No Alibi * E1 5b ** 4
46 Stage Fright HS 4b 2
47 Bronntannas HS 4b 4
48 Strange Harvest VS 5a 4
49 Blue
-
VS 4c  
50 Midget Gem
-
HVS 5b  
51 Green Shoots
-
VS 4c  
52 Jackdaw
-
HS 4b  
  Goin Back Area
54 Jamaica MS 4a  
55 Veil of Perception
-
HVS 5a  
56 The Thing in Itself E2 6a  
57 Goin Back
-
HS 4b 4
58 Strother Martin VS 4c 1
59 Seeing Things E1 5b  
60 Winterwind HVS 5b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer 5eamuz