Altitude 36m a.s.l
Unknown climber on No Man is an Island, F6c © Jus
This was the first area to be retro-bolted and it has become the most popular starting point for exploring the Isle's incredible supply of well-bolted routes. The edge is very friendly with its gleaming white faces and strong corners and grooves. The crag base is a pleasant place to picnic and relax and it is possible to get a lot of mileage in a day here by nipping up and down the numerous pitches. Starting to show the signs of over-use and some of the routes have become a bit polished.
Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes left of Evening Falls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added.
The Battleship cliffs are easy to reach from a good parking spot. Drive through Weston and after passing the shops, keep right down Wide Street. On the next bend (mini roundabout), turn right into Reap Lane and park down by a row of houses on the right. Walk down the road to a track behind the row of houses. Take the track that passes between a stable and a barn. At the cliff edge, walk slightly left and take a steep path (usually a fixed rope in place) down the hillside. Turn right at the bottom. The Veranda area is below you. For the Battleship Main crag, continue north approx 300m (past the Battleship Block Slab, then uphill) to arrive at the right-hand end of the crag.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The peregrines that previously nested on Blacknor have moved nest site to Battleship Back Cliff. A restriction is now in place at the crag between “Always have the Edge” and “Zinc Oxide Mountain” including those routes. Blacknor is now un-restricted.
|Great crag, but do not listen to the 2012 Dorset guidebook access notes (follow those provided on here. The two steep paths it suggests taking are no longer existent following the rockfall and are extremely dangerous, they appear okay at first but end very abruptly with a large drop down the cliff.|
Robheirene - 13/Jul/15