Climbs 72
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 36m a.s.l
Faces W

Unknown climber on No Man is an Island, F6c © Jus

Crag features

This was the first area to be retro-bolted and it has become the most popular starting point for exploring the Isle's incredible supply of well-bolted routes. The edge is very friendly with its gleaming white faces and strong corners and grooves. The crag base is a pleasant place to picnic and relax and it is possible to get a lot of mileage in a day here by nipping up and down the numerous pitches. Starting to show the signs of over-use and some of the routes have become a bit polished.

Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes left of Evening Falls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added.

Approach notes

The Battleship cliffs are easy to reach from a good parking spot. Drive through Weston and after passing the shops, keep right down Wide Street. On the next bend (mini roundabout), turn right into Reap Lane and park down by a row of houses on the right. Walk down the road to a track behind the row of houses. Take the track that passes between a stable and a barn. At the cliff edge, walk slightly left and take a steep path (usually a fixed rope in place) down the hillside. Turn right at the bottom. The Veranda area is below you. For the Battleship Main crag, continue north approx 300m (past the Battleship Block Slab, then uphill) to arrive at the right-hand end of the crag.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The peregrines that previously nested on Blacknor have moved nest site to Battleship Back Cliff. A restriction is now in place at the crag between “Always have the Edge” and “Zinc Oxide Mountain” including those routes. Blacknor is now un-restricted.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
Great crag, but do not listen to the 2012 Dorset guidebook access notes (follow those provided on here. The two steep paths it suggests taking are no longer existent following the rockfall and are extremely dangerous, they appear okay at first but end very abruptly with a large drop down the cliff.
Robheirene - 13/Jul/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Drive a Car Area
2 Another Trojan Horse 6b+ 6
3 The Black Pariah 7a * 9
4 The Misanthrope 7b+ * 4
5 Silage Clamp 7a+ * 11
6 The Sheer Weight of Prague VS 4c 3
7 Never Drive a Car When You're Dead 6a ** 477
8 Wind in the Riggin' 6c ** 132
9 Bawdy House 7a 18
10 The Ghost of Saturday Night 5c * 274
11 Borstal Breakout 6c * 102
12 The Kane Mutiny 6b * 31
13 The Best Men 6c+ * 37
14 Citizen Dust 6a+ * 28
  Victims of Fashion Area
16 Eyes in Your Navel Nigel 6b+ * 34
17 Bilboes 7a * 94
18 Keyboard Wall 7c *** 96
19 Choco Loni 7b ** 35
20 Wurlitzer Jukebox 7a+ * 25
21 Evening Falls 6a+ ** 339
22 Evening Falls Direct 6c * 44
23 Victims of Fashion 7a+ *** 280
24 Barbed Wire Kisses 7a+ ** 99
25 Monoculture 7c+ ** 10
26 Reve d'un Corbeau 7a * 79
27 Lazy Days and Summer Haze 6a+ ** 506
28 Norfolk Coast 7a+ * 8
29 Pinch an Inch 6a ** 604
30 Inchworm 6a+ * 59
31 Inch Perfect, Inchworm 6b+ ** 416
32 Serious Music 6c+ * 64
33 Margaret on the Guillotine 6a ** 410
34 Gratuitous Lies Here 6c+ 14
35 Keel Haul 7b 4
36 Out of Reach, Out of Mind 6c ** 201
37 No me Comas el Coco 7a ** 96
38 Come, Armageddon, Come 6c+ * 48
39 Defcon One 6c+ ** 92
  Humanoid Area
41 Blood Simple 7a * 11
42 Eighth Wonder HVS 5a * 5
43 The Barton Fink 7b 3
44 Hipnition 7a * 14
45 Master of Ape Science 7a+ * 17
46 A Taste of Honey 7a+ * 5
47 Dripping with Blood 6c+ 20
48 Skateboard to Oblivion HVS 5a * 9
49 Maud in Memoria 6c * 24
50 On the Wall 7a+ ** 36
51 Trance Dance 7a * 44
52 Art For Art's Sake 7a+ * 7
53 Judge Jeffreys 6c *** 176
54 Humanoid 7a+ ** 53
55 One for the Gipper 6b * 156
56 President Elect 6b+ * 45
  Middle Cliff
58 Chappaquiddick 6b * 96
59 Coastguard Ron 7a 38
60 April Skies 4c 78
61 Pyramid 6b 35
62 Serendipity 4a 56
63 Mr Dudley Meets Ting Tong Macadangdang 6a 64
64 Flickhead Goes Boing, Boing 7a * 28
65 Cruel Mistress 6c+ * 8
66 Hats off to the Insane 6b+ * 46
67 Trashcan Man 6b * 62
68 Dirty Filthy Rich 6a * 64
69 Setting the Date 6b+ * 48
70 Sealed with a Kiss 6a * 52
71 Champagne Supernova 6a * 92
72 Dishing the Dirt 6a * 45
73 Andy Wallhole 6a * 89
  Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown
75 Kicking Steps
-
E1 5b 1
76 Sugar 'n' Spikes
-
E1 5a 1
77 Stripped for Action
-
E1 5b 1

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