UKC

Climbs 72
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 36m a.s.l
Faces W

Unknown climber on No Man is an Island, F6c © Jus

Crag features

For most people the Battleship Edge is the starting point for exploring the west coast of Portland's huge supply of routes. It is an extremely friendly and inviting place. The gleaming white and grey-streaked faces and striking grooves are peppered with bolts. After the huge landslip of 2014 the old approach is no longer useable, and the crag base is not quite as grassy and friendly as it used to be. The routes remain unchanged though and offer the same quality especially in the mid grades.

Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes left of Evening Falls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added.

Approach notes

The Battleship cliffs are easy to reach from parking spots on Reap Lane, just to the south of Weston. Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane and park on the roadside beyond the traffic-calming installation (150m after the roundabout). Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.

From the first traffic-calming installation, pick up a fenced path that heads towards the cliff-top. At the junction with the cliff-top path, head slightly rightwards, and then take one of two steep paths down the hillside. The Battleship Edge is on the left.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
Great crag, but do not listen to the 2012 Dorset guidebook access notes (follow those provided on here. The two steep paths it suggests taking are no longer existent following the rockfall and are extremely dangerous, they appear okay at first but end very abruptly with a large drop down the cliff.
Robheirene - 13/Jul/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Drive a Car Area
2 Another Trojan Horse 6b+ 6
3 The Black Pariah 7a * 9
4 The Misanthrope 7b+ * 4
5 Silage Clamp 7a+ * 11
6 The Sheer Weight of Prague VS 4c 3
7 Kicking Steps
-
E1 5b 1
8 Never Drive a Car When You're Dead 6a ** 457
9 Wind in the Riggin' 6c ** 134
10 Bawdy House 7a 18
11 The Ghost of Saturday Night 5c * 279
12 Sugar 'n' Spikes
-
E1 5a 2
13 Borstal Breakout 6c * 104
14 Stripped for Action
-
E1 5b 1
15 The Kane Mutiny 6b * 31
16 The Best Men 6c+ * 37
17 Citizen Dust 6a+ * 28
18 Eyes in Your Navel Nigel 6b+ * 35
  Victims of Fashion Area
20 Bilboes 7a * 96
21 Keyboard Wall 7c *** 73
22 Choco Loni 7b ** 38
23 Wurlitzer Jukebox 7a+ * 27
24 Evening Falls 6a+ ** 358
25 Evening Falls Direct 6c * 46
26 Victims of Fashion 7a+ *** 259
Climb name Grade
27 Barbed Wire Kisses 7a+ ** 102
28 Monoculture 7c+ ** 12
29 Reve d'un Corbeau 7a * 83
30 Lazy Days and Summer Haze 6a+ ** 537
31 Norfolk Coast 7a+ * 11
32 Pinch an Inch 6a ** 643
33 Inchworm 6a+ * 63
34 Inch Perfect, Inchworm 6b+ ** 453
35 Serious Music 6c+ * 69
36 Margaret on the Guillotine 6a ** 444
37 Gratuitous Lies Here 6c+ 16
38 Keel Haul 7b 4
39 Out of Reach, Out of Mind 6c ** 209
40 No me Comas el Coco 7a ** 93
41 Come, Armageddon, Come 6c+ * 49
42 Defcon One 6c+ ** 92
  Humanoid Area
44 Blood Simple 7a * 11
45 Eighth Wonder 5c * 12
46 The Barton Fink 7b 3
47 Hipnition 7a * 14
48 Master of Ape Science 7a+ * 17
49 A Taste of Honey 7a+ * 6
50 Dripping with Blood 6c+ 20
51 Skateboard to Oblivion 5c * 24
52 Maud in Memoria 6c * 25
Climb name Grade
53 On the Wall 7a+ ** 37
54 Trance Dance 7a * 45
55 Art For Art's Sake 7a+ * 9
56 Judge Jeffreys 6c *** 184
57 Humanoid 7a+ ** 52
58 One for the Gipper 6b * 165
59 President Elect 6b+ * 47
60 Chappaquiddick 6b * 100
61 Coastguard Ron 7a 40
62 April Skies 4c 84
63 Pyramid 6b 39
  Middle Cliff
65 Serendipity 4a 68
66 Mr Dudley Meets Ting Tong Macadangdang 6a 67
67 Flickhead Goes Boing, Boing 7a * 28
68 Cruel Mistress 6c+ * 9
69 Hats off to the Insane 6b+ * 46
70 Trashcan Man 6b * 67
71 Dirty Filthy Rich 6a * 74
72 Setting the Date 6b+ * 46
73 Sealed with a Kiss 6a * 52
74 Champagne Supernova 6a * 98
75 Dishing the Dirt 6a * 45
76 Andy Wallhole 6a * 86

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