Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2128m a.s.l
Faces all

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Midway along the Punta Serauta ridgeline. © James Rushforth

Crag features

The highest peak in the Dolomites, with a large glacier on it's north flank and some tremendous routes on its south face, along with some great Via Ferratas.

There are over 200 known routes on the Marmolada's south face alone. For the purposes of this page I've only added the well known classics, see the 'Marmolada South Face' guidebook for a full list! I've stuck with the grading system used in the guidebooks as due to the number of insitu pitons constantly changing it is hard to give an English trad grade.

The Marmolada is also a fantastic winter venue with some excellent ice climbs and gullys. 

Approach notes

The Marmolada can be accessed easily via the Fedai Pass from either Canazei or Caprile. During the winter it can easily be skied to from Arabba and the Sellaronda.

Rockfax App

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The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata

A big book to the magnificent Dolomites in northern Italy. This guide covers everything you need for a climbing trip regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three. It features all the major areas and is the only guidebook available to have such comprehensive coverage.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Marmolada di Penia (3343m)
2 Marmolada Normal Route PD 51
3 North Flank of Marmolada di Penia
D 2
4 Marmolada West Ridge to Punta Penia (VF) VF4C *** 119
5 South-West Face (Solda)
VII * 2
6 New South Pillar
7 Micheluzzi
VI a0 *** 1
8 Tomasson V ** 17
9 Ombrello da Sole
VII+ *  
10 Ombrello
11 Sudtiroler Weg
VI a0 **  
  Punta Rocca (3309m)
13 Gogna, via del Cinquantenario Fisi
VII- *** 2
Climb name Grade
14 Futura
VIII- **  
15 Tempi Moderni VII+ *** 11
16 Vinatzer - Castiglioni VI+ *** 23
17 Messner Direct VI+ *** 14
18 Olimpo
VII+ ***  
  Ombreta (3230m)
20 Via Dell'ideale
VII- 1
21 Fortuna
VIII- a0 ***  
22 Attraverso il Pesce VII+ *** 4
23 South Face (Italia) Variation VIII ***  
24 Conforto Crack
VI *  
25 Moby Dick VII- ***  
26 Don Quixote VI+ *** 44
Climb name Grade
27 Schwalbenschwanz/Swallow's Tail VI *** 3
28 Pisoni - Castiglioni
V * 1
29 Hatschi Bratschi
VI- **  
30 Colpo di Coda - Pilastro Dante
VIII- **  
  Punta Serauta (3069m)
32 Eterna Brigata Cadore VF4D ** 41
  Winter Climbs
34 Vernel Gully WI-4 ***  
35 La Cometa di Bouz
WI-5 **  
36 Trei Magi
WI-6 **  
37 Couloir Serauta WI-5  
38 Cascata della Marmolada

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth