Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2128m a.s.l
Faces all

The Marmolada by night. © James Rushforth

Crag features

The highest peak in the Dolomites, with a large glacier on it's north flank and some tremendous routes on its south face, along with some great Via Ferratas.

There are over 200 known routes on the Marmolada's south face alone. For the purposes of this page I've only added the well known classics, see the 'Marmolada South Face' guidebook for a full list! I've stuck with the grading system used in the guidebooks as due to the number of insitu pitons constantly changing it is hard to give an English trad grade.

* For a review of the South Face guidebook read Jack's article found at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2789 .

The Marmolada is also a fantastic winter venue with some excellent iceclimbs and gullys. Vernel is not to be missed! Also some great offpiste ski touring / mountaineering routes, Lydia been arguably the best.

Approach notes

The Marmolada can be accessed easily via the Fedai Pass from either Canazei or Caprile. During the winter it can easily be skied to from Arabba and the Sellaronda.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata

A big book to the magnificent Dolomites in northern Italy. This guide covers everything you need for a climbing trip regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three. It features all the major areas and is the only guidebook available to have such comprehensive coverage.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Marmolada di Penia (3343m)
2 Marmolada Normal Route PD 20
3 North Flank of Marmolada di Penia
-
D 2
4 Marmolada West Ridge to Punta Penia (VF) VF3D *** 81
5 South-West Face (Solda)
-
VII * 2
6 New South Pillar
-
VI+  
7 Micheluzzi
-
VI a0 *** 1
8 Tomasson V ** 13
9 Ombrello da Sole
-
VII+ *  
10 Ombrello
-
VI  
11 Sudtiroler Weg
-
VI a0 **  
  Punta Rocca (3309m)
13 Gogna, via del Cinquantenario Fisi
-
VII- *** 1
14 Futura
-
VIII- **  
15 Tempi Moderni VII+ *** 9
16 Vinatzer - Castiglioni VI+ *** 26
17 Messner Direct VI+ *** 9
18 Olimpo
-
VII+ ***  
  Ombreta (3230m)
20 Via Dell'ideale
-
VII-  
21 Fortuna
-
VIII- a0 ***  
22 Attraverso il Pesce VII+ *** 2
23 South Face (Italia) Variation VIII ***  
24 Conforto Crack
-
VI *  
25 Moby Dick VII- ***  
26 Don Quixote VI+ *** 89
27 Schwalbenschwanz/Swallow's Tail VI *** 3
28 Pisoni - Castiglioni
-
V * 1
29 Hatschi Bratschi
-
VI- **  
30 Colpo di Coda - Pilastro Dante
-
VIII- **  
  Punta Serauta (3069m)
32 Eterna Brigata Cadore VF4D ** 39
  Winter Climbs
34 Vernel Gully WI-4 ***  
35 La Cometa di Bouz
-
WI-5 **  
36 Trei Magi
-
WI-6 **  
37 Couloir Serauta WI-5  
38 Cascata della Marmolada
-
WI-2+  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth