Climbs 42
Rocktype Gabbro
Altitude 411m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

A Dartmoor Tor sunk in the German forest near the Burg Frankenstein!  Three faces on the 'tor' itself and some on the outcrop facing it. The rock is good quality but takes a while to dry and the north-facing routes may need a good glean. A mix of trad gear and some bolts.

Approach notes

A tricky crag to find. From the parking area near Burg Frankenstein, take the obvious track south for about 500m to the hut and activity area. Fork left here and follow path number 3 (look for a yellow 3 in a circle painted on the trees) roughly southwards. The whole area is a maze of paths so good luck! The Gabbro is highly magnetic so maybe if you get lost just follow your compass needle North! The crag is set down below the ridge overlooking the road to the east. 

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Südseite
2 Normalweg
-
I  
3 Kleines Südwändchen
-
II  
4 Gazellensprung
-
III  
5 Großes Südwandchen
-
IV-  
6 Pik Haury - Normalweg
-
I  
7 Südostwändchen
-
III+  
8 Haurywändchen
-
IV  
9 Kante
-
VI-  
10 Boulderwandl
-
VIII  
11 Verschneidung
-
II  
12 Blitzwändchenkante
-
V-  
13 Viererweg
-
VII-  
14 Redel-Variante
-
VI+  
15 Direktes Blitzwändchen
-
IX-  
16 Superdirekt
-
X-  
Climb name Grade
17 Muskelschinder
-
V+  
18 Kuhweg
-
III+  
19 Kuhwegverschneidung
-
VI-  
  Ostseite
21 Direkte Schleierkante
-
VI  
22 Schleierkante
-
VI  
23 Schleierwand
-
VI+  
24 Schleierwandverschneidung
-
VII+  
25 Freundschaftskante
-
VII  
26 Saubär
-
VI+  
27 Mooswandkante
-
VI-  
28 Mooswand
-
VI+  
29 Mooswandriss
-
IV+  
30 Ochsenwandkante
-
IV  
  Nordseite
32 Boulderquergang
-
VIII-  
Climb name Grade
33 Linke Ochsenwand
-
IV  
34 Ochsenriss
-
IV-  
35 Rechte Ochsenwand
-
IV  
36 Sibyllenpromenade
-
VII-  
  Massiv
38 Domkuppel
-
VII  
39 Muttergottesweg
-
V  
40 Prozessionsweg
-
VII  
41 Letzte Olung
-
VII  
42 ?
-
VII  
43 Hochamt
-
VII-  
44 Seufzerweg
-
V+  
45 Rechter Einstieg
-
V+  
46 Nordwändchen
-
II  

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