UKC

Climbs 138
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces W

Beautiful view at Wallsend North once the cloud lifted. Mayday bank holiday weekend 2015 © Chris O'Connell

Crag features

The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two distinct sections - North and South. The routes here combine some superb climbing with bundles of atmosphere. The routes at Wallsend North are set back from the sea, in a short series of bays; varying from around 10m to 20m high, with some larger walls toward the centre of the cove. The climbs at Wallsend Cove span the grades well, providing many climbs that cater for most teams visiting the area.

Approach notes

Drive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic-calming installation. Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.

Pick up the footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. Once at the coast path turn left (looking out) and walk on for 30m. Descend a path, which cuts back right, and at the end of this, head left to the So Hardcore Area. Further on are more sectors prior to the path dropping down to the boulder beach.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
the majority of the routes further right than eight bar blues looked to be virtually unreachable, or now very unpleasant, or both. Mostly now a big sea of muddy rubble trickling towards the sea
Toby Dunn - 04/Apr/15
Large sections of the cliffs have been covered with landslides, hence most routes are either tricky to access our costs in mud. Not sure when this occurred, but it doesn't look like there has been much traffic since.
Pike - 06/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  So Hardcore Area
2 Left Little Slapper 7b+ 6
3 Right Little Slapper 7a+ 7
4 Short Slutty Slab 6b 49
5 The Black Vegetable 5c 53
6 The Dogging Spot 6c 12
7 Pearl Necklace 6b 12
8 Passing Bi 6a+ 17
9 They Walked in Line 7b * 7
10 So Hardcore 7c * 1
11 Layback Chimney HS 1
12 Faith, Hop and Charity 6a 39
13 Short 'n Sexy 6a 35
  Unsung Area
15 Updraft 5a 34
16 The Gods Are Angry 4c 36
17 Summer Lightning 6b+ 23
18 Here Comes The Rain Again 5c 44
19 Captain's Log 6b+ 33
20 Voracious Animal of the Weasel Family 3a 75
21 The Sixteen Dollar Man 6b+ 3
22 Heart Stoppingly Brutal 4c 85
23 Dodo's Delight 6b 10
24 RP Screamers 7a * 31
25 Alpenglow 7a+ * 34
26 Topsy Turvy Land 7b ** 15
27 Magnificent 7 7b+ ** 3
28 Weakest to the Wall 7b ** 13
29 Compromise 7b+ 5
30 Resisting Mutiny 7c+ * 5
31 The Right Mix 6b ** 124
32 Portsea Road 7a 4
33 Never Lose that Feeling 6b * 116
34 Sing Something Simple 6c+ 14
35 Unsung 6b * 139
36 Come In Alone, Go Out Alone 6b * 71
37 Dodo's Revenge 7a 4
38 No Soft Option 7b 4
39 Dial-a-Cliché 6c+ * 9
40 The Web 6b 22
41 Can't Stop the Bosch 6b+ 11
42 Smug Mode Enabled 6b 9
43 Sgt. Ford's Roving Truncheon 7a 4
44 Mr Angry VS 4b 1
45 Twistin' My Melon Man E2 6a  
  Acid Jazz Area
47 Memories from the Fort 6c 3
48 Screaming Toilet Fish E1 5c  
49 The Price of Potatoes HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
50 Sniper in the Brain 7a * 6
51 Holding the Zero 7a * 5
52 Stay on Target 7a 2
53 Dead Man's Click 7a 2
54 Eternity's Toothpaste VS 4c 2
55 Old Painless 7a+ 4
56 Useless Generation 7b ** 11
57 My Love of this Land 7b ** 6
58 Treachery 7a+ * 4
59 Going Blank Again 7a+ * 7
60 The Treacle Factory 6a+ * 81
61 Alberta Balsam 7a * 8
62 Montreal Protocol 7b * 13
63 Cosa Nostra 6a+ * 93
64 Acid Jazz Disco 7a ** 59
65 Eight-Bar Blues 6c+ ** 45
  Teenage Lust Area
67 Precious to the Last 7c *  
68 Ecstasy 7a+ *  
69 Live Now, Pay Later 7a+ *  
70 John Craven's Jumper Contest 6c * 3
71 The Watchmaker's Hands 7c **  
72 Breakfast of Champions 7b+ **  
73 Youth Body Expression Explosion 7b * 1
74 To Hungary For Love 8a ** 1
75 So Shoot Me 7a+ * 2
76 Lolita 7b+ **  
77 Teenage Lust 7b+ ** 1
  The Rampart
79 Miss Jones 3c 1
80 Ledge Shufflers Delight 6c * 2
81 Guardians of Fate 5c 7
82 The Highwayman 6b 1
83 Winter is the New Summer 6b+ 1
84 Band of Pain 7a+ 2
85 Excerpt from a Teenage Opera 6a 2
86 Like Tears in Rain 6c  
87 Whiter Shade of Pale 6c 1
88 Love Street 7a 1
89 The Crystal Ship 6a * 14
90 Waiting for the Sun 6a * 14
91 Black Slab 6b+ 4
92 Justin Credible 6a 2
93 The Devil Came Down to Portland 6b+ 1
  Seaside Slab
95 Up the Apples and Pears 2c 21
96 Sylvia Sunset 2c 22
97 Magnum Farce 2c 24
98 Easy Like a Sunday Morning 2c 26
Climb name Grade
  Sweet Smell of Success Area
100 My Dog's Got Fleas 7b+ ** 4
101 Poop Scoop 6c ** 29
102 Yikes Shaggy 6c * 7
103 Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse 6a * 71
104 Scoobydoobydoo 6b * 55
105 Scooby Snacks 7a * 21
106 The Heanous Quest 6a+ 23
107 Hen's Tooth 7b 1
108 Sang Froid 7c ** 3
109 So You Want to Be Happy 7a+ 1
110 Up on the Hill 7a * 17
111 Hallelujah 7a * 18
112 Old Speckled Hen 6c+ * 25
113 Stone Cold Sober 7b ** 23
114 Stay Golden 7b *** 90
115 Sweet Smell of Success 7b *** 124
116 Frazzled 7b *** 34
117 Streaky 6c+ ** 39
118 Das Boot 6c+ * 19
  Bladerunner Area
120 Falling with Style 6b+ * 36
121 Screw You Hippy 6a * 81
122 Tanya's Sex Pot 6a+ 14
123 Gay Dog 6a+ 15
124 Layback and Take It 6a 15
125 Blackwind, Fire and Steel 6b+ 9
126 Beefcake, Beefcake 6a 26
127 Jungle Drums 6c+ 4
128 Aaron the Aardvark 6b+ * 15
129 Bladerunner 6b+ ** 41
  Downhill Spiral Area
131 Fatal Fibre 6c+ * 2
132 Billy Bob's Way 6b+ ** 16
133 The Man Who Wasn't There 7b  
134 Hate Crime 7a+ * 6
135 Lefty Hoot 'n' Annie 6c ** 15
136 And the Boot Sails By 7a * 3
137 Downhill Spiral 7b+ ** 2
138 Everything's Eventual 6c+ * 5
139 By Mistake 7b+ *  
140 More Than a Legend 7b+ * 1
141 Under Crimson Skies 7a+ * 2
142 My Figure Head 6c 1
143 The Shipping News 7b *  
144 Five Easy Pieces 6c 2
145 Laid Black 6c+ * 3
146 Wonderful 7a+ ** 8
147 Wonder-Bra 6b * 9

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