Climbs 134
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces W

Pete off 'The Right Mix' at Wallsend, F6b+ © Steve Hardy

Crag features

Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North consists of a series of small bays and walls perched above the sea. Some of the approaches are awkward since the bank below the faces is slowly slipping into the sea.

Approach notes

Wallsend North Approach (all areas up to Downhill Spiral Area) - Drive through Weston and after passing the shops, keep right down Wide Street. On the next bend turn right into Reap Lane. Continue for 500m to a bend in the road and either park on the main road, or on the road leading towards the building from Reap Lane. You can park right up near the white building if desired but there have been break-ins here. From this road head straight towards the cliff-top path then turn left (looking out) and walk on for 50m. Drop down a descent path which cuts back right and at the end of this head left underneath the Unsung Area.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The nesting restrictions apply between routes Empire State Arete to Beautiful south - look out for on-site signing.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
the majority of the routes further right than eight bar blues looked to be virtually unreachable, or now very unpleasant, or both. Mostly now a big sea of muddy rubble trickling towards the sea
Toby Dunn - 04/Apr/15
Large sections of the cliffs have been covered with landslides, hence most routes are either tricky to access our costs in mud. Not sure when this occurred, but it doesn't look like there has been much traffic since.
Pike - 06/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  So Hardcore Area
2 Left Little Slapper 7b+ 6
3 Right Little Slapper 7a+ 6
4 Black E1 5b 2
5 Short Slutty Slab 6b 39
6 The Black Vegetable 5c 42
7 The Dogging Spot 6c 11
8 Pearl Necklace 6b 9
9 Passing Bi 6a+ 12
10 They Walked in Line 7b * 7
11 So Hardcore 7c * 1
12 Faith, Hop and Charity 6a 35
13 Short 'n Sexy 6a 31
14 Layback Chimney HS 1
  Unsung Area
16 Updraft 5a 30
17 The Gods Are Angry 4c 34
18 Summer Lightning 6b+ 20
19 Here Comes The Rain Again 5c 37
20 Captain's Log 6b+ 31
21 Voracious Animal (of the Weasel Family) 3 68
22 Heart Stoppingly Brutal 4c 72
23 RP Screamers 7a * 30
24 Alpenglow 7a+ * 33
25 Topsy Turvy Land 7b ** 14
26 Magnificent 7 7b+ ** 3
27 Weakest to the Wall 7b ** 13
28 Compromise 7b+ 5
29 Resisting Mutiny 7c+ * 5
30 The Right Mix 6b ** 118
31 Never Lose that Feeling 6b * 112
32 Sing Something Simple 6c+ 13
33 Unsung 6b * 122
34 Come In Alone, Go Out Alone 6b * 68
35 No Soft Option 7b 4
36 Dial-a-Cliché 6c+ * 9
37 The Web 6b 18
38 Can't Stop the Bosch 6b+ 11
39 Sgt. Ford's Roving Truncheon 7a 4
40 Mr Angry VS 4b 1
41 Twistin' My Melon Man E2 6a  
  Acid Jazz Area
43 Memories from the Fort 6c 3
44 Screaming Toilet Fish E1 5c  
45 The Price of Potatoes HVS 5a  
  Wallsend North
47 Holding the Zero 7a * 5
48 Sniper in the Brain 7a * 6
49 Stay on Target 7a 2
50 Dead Man's Click 7a 2
51 Eternity's Toothpaste VS 4c 2
52 Old Painless 7a+ 4
53 Useless Generation 7b ** 11
54 My Love of this Land 7b ** 6
55 Treachery 7a+ * 2
56 Going Blank Again 7a+ * 7
57 The Treacle Factory 6a+ * 80
58 Alberta Balsam 7a * 8
59 Montreal Protocol 7b * 12
  Teenage Lust Area
61 Cosa Nostra 6a+ * 94
62 Acid Jazz Disco 7a ** 59
63 Eight-Bar Blues 6c+ ** 43
64 Precious to the Last 7c *  
65 Ecstasy 7a+ *  
66 Live Now, Pay Later 7a+ *  
67 John Craven's Jumper Contest 6c * 3
68 The Watchmaker's Hands 7c **  
69 Breakfast of Champions 7b+ **  
70 Youth Body Expression Explosion 7b * 1
71 To Hungary For Love 8a ** 1
72 So Shoot Me 7a+ * 2
73 Lolita 7b+ **  
74 Teenage Lust 7b+ ** 1
  The Rampart
76 Miss Jones 3+  
77 Ledge Shufflers Delight 6c * 2
78 Guardians of Fate 5c 5
79 The Highwayman 6b 1
80 Winter IsThe New Summer 6b+ 1
81 Band of Pain 7a+ 2
82 Excerpt from A Teenage Opera 6a 1
83 Like Tears in Rain 6c  
84 Whiter Shade Of Pale 6c 1
85 Love Street 7a 1
86 The Crystal Ship 6a * 11
87 Waiting For The Sun 6a * 13
88 The Black Slab 6b+ 4
89 Justin Credible 6a 2
90 The Devil Came Down To Portland 6b+ 1
  Seaside Slab
92 Up the Apples and Pears 2+ 19
93 Sylvia Sunset 2+ 18
94 Magnum Farce 2+ 21
95 Easy Like a Sunday Morning 2+ 21
  Sweet Smell of Success Area
97 My Dog's Got Fleas 7b+ ** 4
98 Poop Scoop 6c ** 26
99 Yikes Shaggy 6c * 5
100 Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse 6a * 65
101 Scoobydoobydoo 6b * 40
102 Scooby Snacks 7a * 21
103 The Heanous Quest 6a+ 20
104 Hen's Tooth 7b 1
105 Sang Froid 7c ** 1
106 So You Want to Be Happy 7a+ 1
107 Up on the Hill 7a * 15
108 Hallelujah 7a * 15
109 Old Speckled Hen 6c+ * 19
110 Stone Cold Sober 7b ** 18
111 Stay Golden 7b *** 102
112 Sweet Smell of Success 7b *** 137
113 Frazzled 7b *** 37
114 Streaky 6c+ ** 38
115 Das Boot 6c+ * 18
  Bladerunner Area
117 Falling with Style 6b+ * 31
118 Screw You Hippy 6a * 75
119 Tanya's Sex Pot 6a+ 13
120 Gay Dog 6a+ 13
121 Layback and Take It 6a 13
122 Blackwind, Fire and Steel 6b+ 9
123 Beefcake, Beefcake 6a 25
124 Jungle Drums 6c+ 4
125 Aaron the Aardvark 6b+ * 15
126 Bladerunner 6b+ ** 36
  Downhill Spiral Area
128 Fatal Fibre 6c+ * 2
129 Billy Bob's Way 6b+ ** 16
130 The Man Who Wasn't There 7b  
131 Hate Crime 7a+ * 6
132 Lefty Hoot 'n' Annie 6c ** 14
133 And the Boot Sails By 7a * 3
134 Downhill Spiral 7b+ ** 2
135 Everything's Eventual 6c+ * 5
136 By Mistake 7b+ *  
137 More Than a Legend 7b+ * 1
138 Under Crimson Skies 7a+ * 2
139 My Figure Head 6c 1
140 The Shipping News 7b *  
141 Five Easy Pieces 6c 2
142 Laid Black 6c+ * 3
143 Wonderful 7a+ ** 8
144 Wonder-Bra 6b * 9

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