Climbs 130
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1510m a.s.l

Crag features

A plug of rock in the Apuan Alps with great multi-pitch climbs. There is a ferrata up the back too.

Some single pitch sport also available around Rifugio Forte dei Marmi.

Approach notes

Arrive at Pietrasanta off the Genova-Livorno motorway, about 25 minutes from Pisa. Head towards Stazzema and go beyond the town on a dirt road. Leave your car in a layby next to an obvious path up to the hut where you can sleep and be wonderfully fed.

There is a semi translated guidebook to the area listing the majority of the routes.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Tigre Elettrica
-
7a+  
2 Scioccabambini
-
7a+  
3 Il volo dell'aquilone 7a  
4 Nervocalm
-
7b  
5 Aglio ragazzo
-
6b+  
6 Spit spit bang bang
-
7a+  
7 Bufalo bucolico
-
6c  
8 Machine gun Kelly
-
7a+  
9 Tecnicolor
-
7b  
10 Gabriella 6b+  
11 Vie en rose 6a+  
12 Dolfi Rulli 6a  
13 Crudelia 6c  
14 La Danza dei tendini 6b+  
15 Presagio
-
7b+  
16 Stefania 6c  
17 Oloccomania 6a  
18 Tropicana 6a  
19 Super Craig 6c  
20 Gamma 6b  
21 Confessioni di una strega 7a  
22 Ratti + Tu, il vuoto e la paura 6c+  
23 Menestrella 6b+  
24 Magico accordo
-
7a  
25 Superguglio
-
6c  
26 La notte di S.Lorenzo
-
7b  
27 Hiroshima mon amour
-
7b+  
28 Good lucky Lucifer
-
7a  
29 Sul filo del rasoio
-
6b+  
30 Peggio che andar di notte senza fari
-
7b  
31 Ciondolente
-
7b+  
32 Space shuttle
-
7a+  
33 Il circo
-
7b  
34 Maracuja
-
7b+  
35 Tu puoi 6b  
36 Variante capanna
-
5c  
37 Ol? vol? 6a+  
38 Capanna Ceragioli 5c  
39 Innominata 5c  
40 Antiinnominata 5c  
41 Dolfi Meucci 5c  
42 XXV Aprile 6b  
43 Scacco matto 6b+  
44 Convergenze parallele 6c+  
45 Bastrenta 6a+  
46 Ravieo 6a 1
47 Ti Tocco, Ti Tocco... 6b 1
48 121 Bis 6b+ 1
49 Effetti Collaterali Vertigini
-
6b 1
50 Traversata dei Bimbi AD 1
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