Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Relaxation Time... Wallsend © TimC123

Crag features

Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls of Wallsend South. The Trad Free World Area is laced with great lines which ooze atmosphere and quality.

Approach notes

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars).

DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL

Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you to Coastguard North. Walk under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. Wallsend Central is beyond.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The nesting restrictions apply between routes Empire State Arete to Beautiful south - look out for on-site signing.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Parking at Portland Bill costs an eye-watering 5.50. Rockfax reckon the walk-in to Trad Free World is 20 mins. With heavy rucksacks, the boulder-hopping took us well over an hour. It would only be 20 mins if skipping along with no kit and knowing exactly where you were going!
hms - 21/Sep/13
No free space for parking that i could find, only space is labelled stay for an hour only, assuming this has changed recently?
Graham Booth - 14/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Bigger Piece Area
2 The Bigger Piece 7a+ ** 33
3 No Place for Mambas 6b ** 152
4 Opposites Attract 6c ** 58
5 Mick Lovatt Stole My Trousers 6b+ * 40
6 Cool to be Uncool 7b+ * 4
7 Coconut Milk 7a ** 17
8 On a Desert Island Beach 7a+ ** 9
9 Vin Chaud 7a ** 80
10 Accordions Go Crazy 6b+ ** 55
11 Basrah Blues Band 6c * 11
  Mr. Natural Area
13 Laughing Peter 7a+ ** 12
14 Sans Frontière 6b+ * 18
15 Charlton Mackeral, the World's Strongest Fish 6c 6
16 Parkhurst Dozen 6c * 8
17 Sang Chaud 7a+ *** 33
18 Son of Mustang Ford 7a * 10
19 Mr. Natural 7b+ ** 4
20 Catatonic 6b+ 9
21 Random Texter 6b+ 5
22 Gravity Epiphany 6c+ 3
23 Moan, Moan, Moan 7b+ * 3
24 Injury Encyclopaedia 7b * 3
  Realm of Chaos Area
26 Will 7b  
27 Michele 6a+ 6
28 Shape of Tomorrow 6c 2
29 River of Dreams 7a  
30 Cloud Atlas 7b+ ** 2
31 Spinal Tap 7b+ *  
32 Million Watt Marshalls 7b+ ** 6
33 Ariane V 7b *** 68
34 Disintegration 7b+ ** 1
35 Zum Zeaux 7b+ *** 41
36 Magnetic Pull 7c+ *** 4
37 Realm of Chaos 7b+ *** 68
38 Hombre Solaire 7c ** 2
39 Face the Truth 7c ** 3
40 A Shadow on Mankind 7b+ ** 6
41 Saskatchewan Uranium Miner 7c *** 28
42 Troll Team Special 7a+ ** 71
43 The Pickford Files 7b+ ** 4
44 Breakbeat 7b+ ** 13
45 The Mask 7b ** 30
46 Trent Reznor 7b ** 2
47 Bevis 6b 17
48 Moonfleet 6b+ 13
  The Enchanted Path Area
50 Gossip and Drool 7b * 2
51 Heat-stroke Groove 6c+ * 10
52 Summer Babe 7b+ * 2
53 Eternal Peace 6c 6
54 Dark Play 6b 4
55 The Bog Man 6b+ 2
56 Garstang 6c+ 2
57 Shibumi 7a * 10
58 Slave State 7b+ ** 5
59 Child of Light 6c+ * 6
60 Immaculata 6c ** 29
61 The Watchman 6b *** 248
62 Waiting for the Barbarians 6b+ ** 59
63 Peace in the Nineties 6b+ * 34
64 Some Velvet Morning 7a * 10
65 Enchanted Path 6c ** 63
66 Once Upon a Time in the West 6c * 12
67 Best Fingers Forward 6c+ *** 97
68 Blue Faced Booby 6c ** 74
  Trad Free World Area
70 Tea Cakes Calling 7a * 28
71 The Jewel of the Isle 6b+ *** 220
72 Stalker's Zone 6a+ *** 386
73 Trad Free World 6b *** 352
74 Genuflection 7b *** 60
75 Reverence 7a+ *** 127
76 Outside the Gate 7b *** 33
77 Halfway to Heaven 7b *** 100
78 Straight to Hell 7b+ ** 2
79 Organic Snail Farming 7b ** 9
80 Wave Graffiti 7b+ * 3
81 Hawaiian Pipeline 7b *** 20
82 Running Down a Dream 7b ** 11
83 My Two Left Feet 7c+ * 2
84 Bob's Gold Run 7a+ ** 8
85 Fleshworld 7b+ * 4
86 Colors 7b+ *** 63
87 Olympus Mons 7b ** 14
88 White Unconquerable 6b+ 10
89 Gedge 6b+ 6
90 Black'll do Nicely 7a+ * 3
91 The Empire State Arete 6b+ ** 44
92 Dogtown Skate Team 7a+ ** 4
93 Rush 7b+ ** 1
94 Beautiful South 7c+ ** 3
95 Tarquill's Trollies 6c * 6
96 Flipper's Revenge 7a+ * 4
97 Walking on Sunshine 7a *** 32
98 No Victory In Europe 6c 1
  Hong Kong Phooey Area
100 Critical Mass 6b * 28
101 Rapid Response 7a * 13
102 Chert Noble 7a+ * 3
103 End of the Pier
-
E2 5a 1
104 Face in the Chert 6a 54
105 Glamour Cat 6b ** 110
106 1789 7a ** 24
107 The Bad Seeds 7b *** 32
108 Magical Mr. Mephistopheles 6c ** 42
109 Clacichew 6b * 14
110 Calcite Compliment 6c * 10
111 Jazz It Up 7a+ *  
112 Razzamatazz 7b * 2
113 We are Stardust 4a 17
114 We are Golden 5c 11
115 Stylus
-
HVS 5b 1
116 The Great Pretender 6c+ * 6
117 After the Goldrush
-
E2 5c * 1
118 Totally FOO to You 6c * 3
119 A Perfect Afternoon 6b+ * 7
120 Tunnel Vision 7b+ ** 2
121 Hong Kong Phooey 7c ** 5
122 Doolittle 6b+ ** 34
123 Jane Says 6b+ * 26
124 Relax 6b+ * 14

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