UKC

Climbs 130
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Relaxation Time... Wallsend © TimC123

Crag features

The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two distinct sections - North and South. The routes here combine some superb climbing with bundles of atmosphere. The spectacular Wallsend South areas are located at sea level and rise to around 30m. The climbs at Wallsend Cove span the grades well, providing many climbs that cater for most teams visiting the area.

Approach notes

There are two main approaches, both of which can be hard going, especially the sections along the boulder beach; this is not somewhere to bring non-climbing friends.

Wallsend North ApproachDrive through Weston to a small roundabout and turn right into Reap Lane. Park near the second traffic-calming installation. Do not park directly outside the houses if at all possible and do not change clothes or loiter in front of the houses.

Pick up the footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. Once at the coast path turn left (looking out) and walk on for 30m. Descend a path, which cuts back right, and at the end of this, head left to the So Hardcore Area. Further on are more sectors prior to the path dropping down to the boulder beach.

Coastguard Approach to Wallsend South - Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch lookout. Just before the Coastwatch lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory and then continue down right to below Coastguard North. Walk north under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. This approach is affected by hugh tide.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Parking at Portland Bill costs an eye-watering 5.50. Rockfax reckon the walk-in to Trad Free World is 20 mins. With heavy rucksacks, the boulder-hopping took us well over an hour. It would only be 20 mins if skipping along with no kit and knowing exactly where you were going!
hms - 21/Sep/13
No free space for parking that i could find, only space is labelled stay for an hour only, assuming this has changed recently?
Graham Booth - 14/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Bigger Piece Area
2 Slice of Life
-
E2 5b  
3 The Bigger Piece 7a+ ** 34
4 No Place for Mambas 6b ** 155
5 Opposites Attract 6c ** 63
6 Mick Lovatt Stole My Trousers 6b+ * 41
7 Cool to be Uncool 7b+ * 4
8 Coconut Milk 7a ** 17
9 On a Desert Island Beach 7a+ ** 9
10 Vin Chaud 7a ** 85
11 Accordions Go Crazy 6b+ ** 57
12 Basrah Blues Band 6c * 13
13 Laughing Peter 7a+ ** 13
14 Sans Frontière 6b+ * 19
15 Charlton Mackeral, the World's Strongest Fish 6c 6
  Mr. Natural Area
17 Parkhurst Dozen 6c * 8
18 Sang Chaud 7a+ *** 36
19 Son of Mustang Ford 7a * 11
20 Mr. Natural 7b+ ** 4
21 Catatonic 6b+ 9
22 Random Texter 6b+ 5
23 Gravity Epiphany 6c+ 3
24 Family
-
VS  
25 Moan, Moan, Moan 7b+ * 3
26 Injury Encyclopaedia 7b * 4
  Realm of Chaos Area
28 Will 7b  
29 Michèle 6a+ 7
30 Shape of Tomorrow 6c 3
31 River of Dreams 7a  
32 Spinal Tap 7b+ *  
33 Cloud Atlas 7b+ ** 2
34 Million Watt Marshalls 7b+ ** 6
35 Ariane V 7b *** 59
36 Disintegration 7b+ ** 1
37 Zum Zeaux 7b+ *** 27
38 Magnetic Pull 7c+ *** 4
39 Realm of Chaos 7b+ *** 72
40 Hombre Solaire 7c ** 2
41 Face the Truth 7c ** 3
42 A Shadow on Mankind 7b+ ** 6
43 Saskatchewan Uranium Miner 7c *** 16
44 Troll Team Special 7a+ ** 76
45 The Pickford Files 7b+ ** 5
46 Breakbeat 7b+ ** 13
Climb name Grade
47 The Mask 7b ** 27
48 Trent Reznor 7b ** 2
49 Bevis 6b 17
50 Moonfleet 6b+ 13
51 Kraken
-
HVS  
52 Divine Madness
-
E1 5b  
53 Gossip and Drool 7b * 2
54 Heat-stroke Groove 6c+ * 10
55 Summer Babe 7b+ * 2
  The Enchanted Path Area
57 Eternal Peace 6c 6
58 Dark Play 6b 4
59 Lacerations
-
VS  
60 The Bog Man 6b+ 2
61 Garstang 6c+ 2
62 Boulder Crack
-
HVS  
63 Shibumi 7a * 13
64 Slave State 7b+ ** 5
65 Ferocity
-
VS  
66 Child of Light 6c+ * 6
67 Immaculata 6c ** 32
68 The Watchman 6b *** 254
69 Waiting for the Barbarians 6b+ ** 70
70 Peace in the Nineties 6b+ * 44
71 Some Velvet Morning 7a * 11
72 Enchanted Path 6c ** 70
73 Once Upon a Time in the West 6c * 16
74 Best Fingers Forward 6c+ *** 88
75 Blue Faced Booby 6c ** 73
  Trad Free World Area
77 The Gash
-
VS  
78 Tea Cakes Calling 7a * 31
79 The Jewel of the Isle 6b+ *** 224
80 Stalker's Zone 6a+ *** 400
81 Trad Free World 6b *** 350
82 Genuflection 7b *** 51
83 Reverence 7a+ *** 120
84 Outside the Gate 7b *** 35
85 Halfway to Heaven 7b *** 92
86 Straight to Hell 7b+ ** 2
87 Organic Snail Farming 7b ** 9
88 Wave Graffiti 7b+ * 3
89 Hawaiian Pipeline 7b *** 17
90 Running Down a Dream 7b ** 12
91 My Two Left Feet 7c+ * 2
92 Bob's Gold Run 7a+ ** 9
Climb name Grade
93 McKenna's Cleft
-
VS  
94 Fleshworld 7b+ * 4
95 Colors 7b+ *** 46
96 Olympus Mons 7b ** 12
97 White Unconquerable 6b+ 12
98 Gedge 6b+ 6
99 Black'll do Nicely 7a+ * 3
100 The Worm
-
VS  
101 The Empire State Arête 6b+ ** 48
102 Dogtown Skate Team 7a+ ** 3
103 Rush 7b+ ** 1
104 Beautiful South 7c+ ** 2
105 Tarquill's Trollies 6c * 6
106 Flipper's Revenge 7a+ * 4
107 Walking on Sunshine 7a *** 25
108 No Victory In Europe 6c 1
  Hong Kong Phooey Area
110 Sea Saga
-
HVS  
111 Critical Mass 6b * 30
112 Rapid Response 7a * 13
113 Chert Noble 7a+ * 4
114 End of the Pier
-
E2 5a 1
115 Face in the Chert 6a 58
116 Glamour Cat 6b ** 120
117 1789 7a ** 28
118 The Bad Seeds 7b *** 38
119 Magical Mr. Mephistopheles 6c ** 44
120 Clacichew 6b * 16
121 Calcite Compliment 6c * 11
122 Jazz It Up 7a+ *  
123 Razzamatazz 7b * 2
124 We are Stardust 4a 20
125 We are Golden 5c 13
126 Stylus
-
HVS 5b 1
127 The Great Pretender 6c+ * 6
128 After the Gold Rush
-
E2 5c 1
129 Totally FOO to You 6c * 3
130 A Perfect Afternoon 6b+ * 7
131 Half-Way House
-
HS  
132 Tunnel Vision 7b+ ** 2
133 Hong Kong Phooey 7c ** 5
134 Doolittle 6b+ ** 36
135 Jane Says 6b+ * 28
136 Relax 6b+ * 14

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