Climbs 47
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Theo Elmer (feeko) busting Shining Heart (F7c), Coastguard North © Richard Horn

Crag features

Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the areaâs hardest route - at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. This is a great place for onsighting.

Approach notes

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.

This lay by is currently signed as "Urban Clearway". It's due to be be changed soon to allow free parking, but only for an hour at a time.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UKs most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfaxs award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UKs most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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if you dont want to pay the 6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help
La benya - 01/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Wax Museum Area 
2Cunning Lingo
E3 6a 1
3El Poder de un Coño6c+ **33
4Explorator MotivatorE3 6a * 
5100% Columbian7a+ *7
6China White6c+ **31
7Boys from the Loose StuffE3 5b  
8Pure Shores6c *31
9Meridian Line7c **1
10Ming the Merciless7c+ * 
11Headwall Emptiness7b+ **1
12Glycerine7c+ ** 
13Sand Castles7a+ 2
14Wax Museum7b+ ***35
15Dr. Phibes7b **21
16Clockwork Orange7c ** 
17The Nth Degree7c * 
18Wasted7b+ *1
19Last Orders7c * 
20Bar Room Brawl7c+ **1
21Vespasian8b ***4
22Sale of the Century7b ** 
23Zero Tolerance7b+ * 
24Mid-Strife Oasis7c * 
25Eternal Spider7c+ ** 
26Happy to Go Blind7b+ *2
27No Lion, No Tiger
E1 5a 2
 Nothing but the Groove Area 
29Spare Rib7b **33
30Girl Power7a+ **22
31Steve's Route7b *10
32Retaining the Ashes6b **123
33Into the Groove6b+ *44
34Nothing but the Groove6c+ ***161
35Running It In7b+ **19
36Superfly Guy7a ***185
37Lost in Rock6c+ **55
38The Man Who Never Found Himself6a+ **184
39Van People7a **28
40Dosvadanya6c+ *7
41Fantasy Island6c *30
42La Usurpadora7c  
43Heartland7c *5
44Shining Heart7c **15
45Frenzied Detruncation7b+ **6
46Prison Sex7c+ **18
47Midnight Oil7a *13
48Hang 'em High7b *5
49Gun Runner6a *52

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