UKC

Climbs 47
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces W

Theo Elmer (feeko) busting Shining Heart (F7c), Coastguard North © Richard Horn

Crag features

The Coastguard Cliffs run south towards the Bill of Portland and possess a wealth of excellent routes set in a remote and beautiful environment. Unlike much of the rest of the west coast of Portland, the Coastguard Cliffs have an authentic sea-cliff feel about them, with all that this entails - tidal approaches, slippery boulders and the constant accompaniment of the sea close by.

Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep, powerful and hard climbs, many in the high 7s. It is also the setting for Portland's hardest route - Vespasian at 8b.

Approach notes

Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch lookout. Just before the Coastwatch lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory. The path gains the boulder beach below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
if you dont want to pay the 6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help
La benya - 01/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Wax Museum Area
2 Cunning Lingo
-
E3 6a 2
3 El Poder de un Coño 6c+ ** 38
4 Explorator Motivator E3 6a *  
5 100% Columbian 7a+ * 8
6 China White 6c+ ** 35
7 Boys from the Loose Stuff E3 5b  
8 Pure Shores 6c * 36
9 Meridian Line 7c **  
10 Ming the Merciless 7c+ *  
11 Headwall Emptiness 7b+ ** 2
12 Glycerine 7c+ **  
13 Sand Castles 7a+ 4
14 Wax Museum 7b+ *** 48
15 Dr. Phibes 7b ** 25
16 Clockwork Orange 7c **  
17 The Nth Degree 7c *  
Climb name Grade
18 Wasted 7b+ * 1
19 Last Orders 7c *  
20 Bar Room Brawl 7c+ ** 1
21 Vespasian 8b *** 4
22 Sale of the Century 7b **  
23 Zero Tolerance 7b+ *  
24 Mid-Strife Oasis 7c *  
25 Eternal Spider 7c+ **  
26 Happy to Go Blind 7b+ * 2
27 No Lion, No Tiger
-
E1 5a 2
  Nothing but the Groove Area
29 Spare Rib 7b ** 41
30 Girl Power 7a+ ** 27
31 Steve's Route 7b * 10
32 Retaining the Ashes 6b ** 166
33 Into the Groove 6b+ * 46
34 Nothing but the Groove 6c+ *** 178
Climb name Grade
35 Running It In 7b+ ** 24
36 Superfly Guy 7a *** 229
37 Lost in Rock 6c+ ** 69
38 The Man Who Never Found Himself 6a+ ** 230
39 Van People 7a ** 38
40 Dosvadanya 6c+ * 5
41 Fantasy Island 6c * 34
42 La Usurpadora 7c  
43 Heartland 7c * 5
44 Shining Heart 7c ** 17
45 Frenzied Detruncation 7b+ ** 7
46 Prison Sex 7c+ ** 15
47 Midnight Oil 7a * 14
48 Hang 'em High 7b * 3
49 Gun Runner 6a * 69

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