UKC

Climbs 88
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 42m a.s.l
Faces W

Xavier's wall area on Portland last weekend © tony4433

Crag features

The Coastguard Cliffs run south towards the Bill of Portland and possess a wealth of excellent routes set in a remote and beautiful environment. Unlike much of the rest of the west coast of Portland, the Coastguard Cliffs have an authentic sea-cliff feel about them, with all that this entails - tidal approaches, slippery boulders and the constant accompaniment of the sea close by.

Coastguard South offers more in the mid-grades, including the very popular Xavier's Wall Area - home to a great spread of mid-grade routes. The rock at both the North and South Cliffs is some of the best on the Isle, and is furnished with some fantastic flowstone-sheets.

Approach notes

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island and park at the Portland Bill car park (fee). Walk back up the road, and, just after the Pulpit Inn, take a minor road on the left. As the road starts to level out, just before the Coastwatch lookout, go left and down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (rope often in place - take care). The path gains the boulder beach below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South, continue down the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over huge boulders to a level platform beyond.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman - 22/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Aerials
2 Rude Not To 5a 31
3 My Lovely Joey 5a 33
4 The Tail of Two Ends 6b+ 13
5 Jog on Doris 4c 38
6 Chalkings of a Madman 6a 34
7 Climb It Like You Stole It 6b 21
8 Where's Pablo's Phone? 6a+ 15
9 Rigor Tortoise 6b+ 12
10 A Time of Gifts 4a 19
11 Old Tom Bombadil 5a 14
12 Embrace of an Endless Ocean 5c 18
13 Diving for Pearls 6b+ 4
  Grip 89 Area
15 Seat of Learning 7c *  
16 The Font of Knowledge 7c ** 3
17 Biscuits for Smut 7b ** 16
18 Reactor Meltdown 7b+ ** 2
19 Nuclear Fusion 7c ** 2
20 Grip '89 (Audi 80 vs the Law)
-
6c+ *** 9
21 Guardian Angel 7b+ ** 6
22 Brooklyn Bimbo 7b+ ** 3
  Manhattan Skyline Area
24 From a Buick Eight 7b * 2
25 New York Dolls 6a+ ** 54
26 The Devil's Work 6b+ 4
27 Marshalling Amps 7b *  
28 Broadway E3 5c  
29 Manhattan Skyline 6c ** 1
30 Skyscraper 7a * 5
31 H'electric Boogaloo 6b ** 36
32 The Bronx 6c+ ** 16
Climb name Grade
33 Easy Cleft
-
HS 4a 1
34 American Beauty 6c ** 12
35 Vesuvius
-
VS  
36 California Dreams 6b+ * 4
  Xaviers Wall Area
38 September Mourning 7b **  
39 Wharfedale Boyz 7c *  
40 Screaming Skulls 7c *** 1
41 Tennessee 7c *** 29
42 Darkest Before Dawn 7b * 1
43 Actions Speak Louder 7a+ * 2
44 L'Odyssee Noire 6c+ ** 19
45 Xavier's Wall 6a *** 282
46 Coming of Age 6a ** 210
47 Underage 6a *** 284
48 Xavier Zoo 6a ** 127
49 Young at Heart 6a+ ** 107
50 Lucky Dip
-
HS  
51 What Gives, My Son? E3 5c * 3
  Bad Moon Rising Area
53 Wavewatch 7b * 4
54 Full Fathom Five 7b ** 19
55 Bad Moon Rising 7a *** 41
56 A Ship Load of Moonies 6c+ ** 25
57 Dead by Sunset 7b * 3
58 Witchdoctor 7b *  
59 Vampire Killers 7b *  
60 The Lost Buoys 7c+ *  
61 No Survivors 7b+  
62 A Meeting of Minds 7a+  
63 Lip Service 7a * 5
64 Bermuda Triangle 6c ** 15
Climb name Grade
65 A Bird in the Hand 7a+ 1
66 Hasta La Vista 6b+ * 5
  Quick as Rainbows Area
68 Small Talk Costs Walls 6c+ * 1
69 Smashing Orange 7a ** 7
70 Drive Blind 7a ** 6
71 Forensic Scene 7a+ ** 5
72 Quick as Rainbows 7a+ *** 20
73 Red Medicine 7b+ *** 3
74 Aeon Flux 7b **  
75 Under the Sky, Inside the Sea 7a ** 12
76 Forget Columbus 7a+ *** 20
77 Buried Violence 7b+ ** 1
78 Walking the King 6b+ *** 119
79 An Ideal for Living 7a+ ** 9
80 Time Bomb 7a ** 9
  Azymuth Area
82 Winning at Rodeo 7a *** 27
83 Chevette de la Mer 6b ** 30
84 Swimsuit Issue 6c+ * 8
85 Xistenz 7a+ * 3
86 Razor Laugh E1 5b *  
87 Hell Razor E3 5c *  
88 Space Shanty 6b ** 14
89 Astra Blaze 6c ** 8
90 Come In and Burn 7b ** 2
91 Azymuth 7a+ ** 4
92 L'esprit du vent 7a+ ** 4
93 Down to the Wire 7b+ **  
94 Dawn of a New Age 7b+ **  
95 Birthday Present 7b+  

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