Climbs 86
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Xavier's wall area on Portland last weekend © tony4433

Crag features

Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Approach notes

Small permanent restriciton on the far south area. NO CLIMBING from 1 March to 31 July because of nesting bird watchers.

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South continue down to the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over a boulder jumble to the more level platform beyond. It is possible once acquainted with the area to cut back south along a grass bank from the promontory and then drop down a short series of rock steps onto the platform about 50m from Grip '89 Area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman - 22/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Aerials
2 Rude Not To 5a 16
3 My Lovely Joey 5a 17
4 The Tail of Two Ends 6b+ 10
5 Jog on Doris 4c 26
6 Chalkings of a Madman 6a 25
7 Climb It Like You Stole It 6b 17
8 Where's Pablo's Phone? 6a+ 12
9 Rigor Tortoise 6b+ 11
10 A Time of Gifts 4a 16
11 Old Tom Bombadil 5a 11
12 Embrace of an Endless Ocean 5c 13
13 Diving for Pearls 6b+ 4
  Grip 89 Area
15 Seat of Learning 7c *  
16 The Font of Knowledge 7c ** 3
17 Biscuits for Smut 7b ** 15
18 Reactor Meltdown 7b+ ** 1
19 Nuclear Fusion 7c ** 1
20 Grip '89 (Audi 80 vs the Law)
-
6c+ *** 6
21 Guardian Angel 7b+ ** 2
22 Brooklyn Bimbo 7b+ ** 3
  Manhattan Skyline Area
24 From a Buick Eight 7b * 2
25 New York Dolls 6a+ ** 50
26 The Devil's Work 6b+ 4
27 Marshalling Amps 7b *  
28 Broadway E3 5c  
29 Manhattan Skyline 6c ** 1
30 Skyscraper 7a * 3
31 H'electric Boogaloo 6b ** 32
32 The Bronx 6c+ ** 12
33 Easy Cleft
-
HS 4a 1
34 American Beauty 6c ** 11
35 California Dreams 6b+ * 4
  Xaviers Wall Area
37 September Mourning 7b **  
38 Wharfedale Boyz 7c *  
39 Screaming Skulls 7c *** 1
40 Tennessee 7c *** 20
41 Darkest Before Dawn 7b * 1
42 Actions Speak Louder 7a+ * 2
43 L'Odyssee Noire 6c+ ** 18
44 Xavier's Wall 6a *** 261
45 Coming of Age 6a ** 199
46 Underage 6a *** 254
47 Xavier Zoo 6a ** 108
48 Young at Heart 6a+ ** 102
49 What Gives, My Son? E3 5c * 3
  Bad Moon Rising Area
51 Wavewatch 7b * 4
52 Full Fathom Five 7b ** 15
53 Bad Moon Rising 7a *** 29
54 A Ship Load of Moonies 6c+ ** 21
55 Dead by Sunset 7b * 3
56 Witchdoctor 7b *  
57 Vampire Killers 7b *  
58 The Lost Buoys 7c+ *  
59 No Survivors 7b+  
60 A Meeting of Minds 7a+  
61 Lip Service 7a * 5
62 Bermuda Triangle 6c ** 12
63 A Bird in the Hand 7a+ 1
64 Hasta La Vista 6b+ * 5
  Quick as Rainbows Area
66 Small Talk Costs Walls 6c+ * 1
67 Smashing Orange 7a ** 10
68 Drive Blind 7a ** 11
69 Forensic Scene 7a+ ** 5
70 Quick as Rainbows 7a+ *** 20
71 Red Medicine 7b+ *** 3
72 Aeon Flux 7b **  
73 Under the Sky, Inside the Sea 7a ** 11
74 Forget Columbus 7a+ *** 18
75 Buried Violence 7b+ **  
76 Walking the King 6b+ *** 154
77 An Ideal for Living 7a+ ** 10
78 Time Bomb 7a ** 9
  Azymuth Area
80 Winning at Rodeo 7a *** 21
81 Chevette de la Mer 6b ** 27
82 Swimsuit Issue 6c+ * 7
83 Xistenz 7a+ * 3
84 Razor Laugh E1 5b *  
85 Hell Razor E3 5b/c *  
86 Space Shanty 6b ** 15
87 Astra Blaze 6c ** 9
88 Come In and Burn 7b ** 2
89 Azymuth 7a+ ** 4
90 L'Esprit du Vent 7a+ ** 4
91 Down to the Wire 7b+ **  
92 Dawn of a New Age 7b+ **  
93 Birthday Present 7b+  

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