Climbs 69
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 11m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Disappearing ball of gas , White hole , Portland Dorset 17.45 hrs 24.03.11 © LaMentalist

Crag features

White Hole is unique to the west coast of Portland, being an area of well-defined and deeply-incised zawns. The walls of the zawns are relatively short compared to the neighbouring Coastguard Cliffs, but have a set of good routes with an atmosphere that is out of all proportion to their size. The rock is solid, but also extremely rough and it can be a bit tough on finger skin. Many of the lines are climbed both as sport climbs and deep water solos.

Approach notes

Drive to Portland Bill and park by the lighthouse (fee). Walk westwards (right - looking out) next to a fence and above an old quarry for 200m. Turn right at the cliff top and follow the fence. The South Cliff is just below the top after 20m. Mirthmaid Zawn is the large square-cut prow further into the bay. It is reached by following the fence closely past a pipe, before dropping down onto a large rock platform. To reach Memories Zawn and the Faceache Area, continue from the large rock platform by scrambling up to the top of the Mirthmaid promontory. Move along a narrow cliff-top ledge that runs right (looking out) around a square-cut zawn to a narrow rift beneath the weird conglomerate rock bridge.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
What's the deal with access here? I assumed since there is nothing stated in the guides that climbing is permitted here. However, MOD dude today was not happy about our presence. Apparently the MOD own all the land down to the sea, not just what is fenced in and don't allow climbing.
dannyboy83 - 29/Sep/18
The fence mentinoed in the description now includes a barrier preventing easy access to the routes on the promontary. Nowadays, one must scramble along ledges to the back of the zawn and make a scary pull across a narrow (but deep) gap.
Steve Taylor - 30/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Memories Zawn Area
2 Second Attention 6c+  
3 Crossing the Boundaries of Affection 7a+ * 2
4 Kinaesthesia 7a+ *** 4
5 Intricacies of Dreaming 7b ** 1
6 Memories 6a+ * 6
7 Hung, Swung and Zawned Out E2 5b ** 3
8 Paraphilias E5 6a * 2
9 Aphasia E3 5b 2
10 The Drill Sergeant 6c+ *  
11 Until the End of Man 7a **  
12 Karate Kid 6a+ 9
13 Bar, Bar, Black Sheep 6c+ * 1
14 Excalibur's Edge 6b+ ** 2
15 The Labyrinth 7b *  
16 One Life 7b ** 1
17 Faceache 7b **  
18 The Code Breaker and the French Teacher 7a+ * 1
19 Obscene Gesture (Part 2) 7a+ *  
20 The Skin Trade 7a+ * 1
  Mirthmaid Zawn Area
22 Sad Young Biscuits 7a+  
23 Dead in Europe 7a+ *  
24 Splendid Isolation 6c * 10
25 Just for a Day E4 6a * 2
Climb name Grade
26 Gav's Long Link-up
-
6b * 2
27 Mirthmaid 7a+ * 1
28 Nightmirth 7c *  
29 Sister of Night E5 6b **  
30 Any Last Requests? E4 5c  
31 Spanish Air E3 5b  
32 Tiny Smiles 7a+  
33 Totally Stoked
-
HVS 5a  
34 Route 12
-
E3 5c 1
35 Route 13
-
E2 5b 1
36 Get Some Air, Fatso!
-
E1 5b *  
37 Route 15
-
E3 6a  
38 Route 16
-
E3 5c * 1
39 True to the Game
-
E3 6a  
40 Dragon's Lair
-
VS 4a 7
41 Route 19
-
E2 5c 1
42 Route 20
-
E2 5c 1
43 Route 21
-
E2 5c 1
  South Cliff
45 Evening Delight 4a 3
46 Song of the Sea 5c 1
47 Balance of Power 8a ** 4
48 The Pipers of Portland 6c *  
49 Funnel Web 6b * 2
50 End of Season Sale 6b  
Climb name Grade
51 The Reign of Steel 6b+ * 3
52 Red Raw 7a+ 1
53 Tickled Pink 7c * 2
54 Wafer Thin 6b * 16
55 Run, Rabbit, Run 6b+ 18
56 Staple Diet 6b * 28
57 Painted Lady 6a+ 38
58 The Feather 6c 11
59 Rust Never Sleeps 6a 12
60 The Cruel Sea 5c 51
61 Adonis Blue 6b+ 26
62 Chalk-hill Blue 6a+ * 37
  White Hole Bouldering
64 Different Souls V1 ** 3
65 Crack of Doom f6C ** 4
66 Vert Ramp f6B+ * 6
67 Raised Beatch f6A+ * 7
68 White Hole Slab f6A * 9
69 Portland Dirt Bed f4 10
70 Cherty Freshwater Member f6A * 6
71 Toe Poke f6C+ ** 2
72 White Hole Arête f5+ ** 7
73 Six Strings Attatched V2 * 3

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