UKC

Climbs 34
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 70m a.s.l
Faces E

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Nigel Boothroyd catching the last rays of sun on the east-facing wall of Mariella Crack'n Up on the route Manomolla (6a) © Alan James

Crag features

The slopes of Monte Pellegrino have a narrow fin protruding due north overlooking Mondello. On the west side is Valdesi and on the east side is Mariella Crack'n Up. The latter provides shade in the afternoon which makes it popular in the warmer months for Palermo climbers.

The central feature of the crag is a huge white 90m pillar and corner which are tackled by some multi-pitch climbs including the eponymous Mariella Crack'n Up. Only two are included here but they are both well worth doing if you have a small rack of gear.

The wall to the left of the pillar has a good set of single-pitch routes, most of which have reasonable gear. The routes to the right of the pillar are a bit more of an unknown and most have old gear and should be avoided until re-bolted.

Approach notes

From the Partanna roundabout in the north of the city, head west on the dual carriageway towards Monte Gallo which is obvious in front of you. Go through two roundabouts and, at the end by some impressive old trees, follow the road right to reach the long road which goes north to south on this side of Monte Gallo. Turn left then immediately right. Drive down past Valdesi on the right and curve round on the other side of the cliff. Park at a lookout point after 200m, or a little further up the road. Walk up the road for 100m to a path which leads directly up to below the white pillar.

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