Climbs 387
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SE

John Pullin climbing a classic problem (Font 4) at Hidden Cove, Portland © Ben Thorne

Crag features

On the east coast of the southern tip of the isle are two small areas nestling under the lighthouses. Barrel Zawn is a pleasant little bouldering area with some intense and powerful problems on slopers and tiny crimps or pockets above a shingle beach. The beach can vary in height and the problems are at their best when the beach is low. Sector Pom Pom offers a similar style of power-packed routes situated in another delightful little bay with a a frozen wave of gritstone pitted with infrequent pockets.**SEE BELOW** Sadly neither place holds anything for beginners but both are great for a spot of sunbathing or a picnic and are only 300m from the car park. Irate landowner causes problems in summer. No legal reason for denying access but it is still best to keep away. A few metres south of Barrel Zawn is the excellent low/mid-grade bouldering area of Hidden Cove, with several quality problems in the range V1 to V6 above sandy landings.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Xhlx9wbs-0c [Stuart Morris]

Approach notes

Barrel Zawn and Hidden Cove - Park at the main Portland Bill car park (or for free back at the layby). From the lighthouse, walk behind the cafe. The north-facing zawn is found 100m left (looking out) up the coast path just before a large quarried rock platform. Hidden Cove is directly behind the white "building" by the Lobster Pot Cafe. Sector Pom Pom - Park as for Coastguard, in the layby before the Pulpit Inn. Walk down the road past the Pulpit Inn then, at the bend, head left down a private track with the open field on the right. Follow the track around past the beach huts to the cliff-top. Turn left then after 20m follow natural rock steps down into an open cove with a prominent pinnacle. To the left is a fine wave of rock.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Warm-up Wall
2 Entirely at Your Own Risk f5 11
3 Liable to Give Way f3 * 13
4 No Liability f5+ * 6
5 The Signs of the Times f5 * 22
6 The Warning Signs Were There f5+ * 21
7 Early Warning Signs f3 * 21
8 Stinkmata f6A ** 18
9 Iron Curtains f7A+ ** 2
10 Groove Left f5+ * 8
11 Groove Right f5+ * 9
12 Unblocked f5+ ** 4
13 Writer's Block f5+ 8
14 Block and Tackle f4+ 15
15 Blockbuster f5+ * 17
16 Blockhead f4 18
17 Breeze Block f4 16
18 Jenga Master f5+ * 14
19 Road Block f4 18
  Pulpit Overhang
21 Flake Escape f6A * 3
22 Rock-over Prolapse f6B+ *  
23 Sunset Sessions f4 * 2
24 Work Sucks f4+ * 3
25 Earth Shadow f6A *** 5
26 Analemma f6B+ * 1
27 Azimuth f5+ * 7
28 Winkle Picker f7A *** 1
29 Winkle Picker Direct f7B ***  
30 Pickled Winky f6C+ ** 1
31 Pickled Winky, Sit start f7A ** 1
32 Portland's Heel f6A+ * 1
33 Forced Wide f4 * 2
34 Easy Groove f3 2
35 The Undateables f6A * 2
36 Date Night f6C+ *** 10
37 Double Date f6C *** 2
38 Time Lapse f6B ** 3
39 Flying Arete f6A * 1
40 Bent Pigeon
-
6c S0 *  
41 Clarence 6c * 1
  Pulpit Rock
43 Tombstonin'...
-
E3 6a * 3
44 End of the Land...
-
E4 5c *  
45 The Good of Sleep
-
E1 5a 2
46 Chymerie
-
HVS 4c * 1
47 Edge of Beyond
-
HVS 5c * 9
48 Bleating Nincompoops
-
4c 5
49 Rapture of the Deep
-
HVS 5b ** 11
50 Swirling Pool
-
HVS 5a * 5
  Undercut Buttress
52 Exhibitionism f5 * 1
53 A Public Spectacle f4 * 1
54 Roll Up, Roll Up f5+ * 1
55 Roll Up, Roll Up, Sit-start f6A * 1
56 Don't Look Johnny f4 * 1
57 Tourist Attraction f5 * 1
58 Curtain Call f4 * 1
59 Back Stage f6A 1
60 Exit Stage Left f6C ** 2
61 Exit Stage Right f6B+ ** 1
  Working Class Boulder
63 Working Class Man f4+ * 4
64 Twerking Class f5 * 4
  Swiss Cheese Wall
66 Cheese Slick f5+ ** 6
67 Many Tentacles Pimping on the Keys f4+ * 5
68 Reblochon f4 * 5
69 Emmentaler f4+ * 7
70 Sbrinz f3 * 6
71 Gruyère f5 * 5
72 Schabziger f6A * 1
73 Appenzeller f4+ ** 3
74 Bündner Bergkäse f5+ ** 3
75 Mutschli f5+ * 1
76 Raclette f5+ * 2
77 Tête de Moine f4+ * 2
78 Fribourgeois f4+ 1
79 Tilsiter f3 4
80 Mont d'Or f4+ 2
81 Formaggini f4+ * 4
82 Limburger f3 * 5
  Obelisk Wall
84 Terror Tactics f4+ 14
85 Kiss and Tell f6A * 2
86 The Poxley Pocket f6B * 2
87 Penny Lane f4+ * 15
88 Stake Through the Heart f6A 13
89 Ground Hogg Day f6A 4
90 Willow's Crack f4+ ** 15
91 Angel Dust f4+ *** 28
92 Batarang f6A * 3
93 Buffy's Groove f5 *** 27
94 Blade f6B *** 15
95 Vampire killers f5+ ** 18
96 Silver Bullet f3 20
97 Sea Spray f4+ * 22
98 Trinity Slab f5 * 8
99 Trinity Wall f3 * 8
100 Trinity Right-hand f4+ * 7
  Boulder Cove
102 Three Blind Spice f6B * 1
103 Old Spice f6B+ ** 2
104 Old Spice, Sit Start f6C ** 1
105 Five Spice f6C ** 2
106 Twice as Spice f6B * 1
107 Spice Squad f6A * 1
108 Naughty but Spice f5+ * 1
109 The Spice President f5+ 1
110 Of Spice and Men f4 2
111 Sharpe's Gold f4 * 2
112 Sharpe's Siege f6C * 3
113 Sharpe's Peril f5+ * 3
114 Sharpe's Peril, Sit-start f6A+ * 5
115 Sharpe's Eagle f5+ * 3
116 Sharpe's Eagle, Sit-start f6A+ 7
117 Sharpe's Sword f4 4
118 Sharpe's Sword, Sit-start f4+ 5
119 Sharpe's Traverse f6B ** 1
  Promontory Roof
121 Promontory Arete f4 2
122 Promontory Groove f3 3
123 Little Roof f4+ * 4
124 Riders on the Storm f7C+ *** 5
125 Devil Face f7A * 10
126 Devil Force f7B+ ** 2
127 Storm Force f8A ***  
128 Well Hung f7B+ *** 1
129 Children of Poseidon f8A ***  
130 Hungover f7B *** 1
131 Force Majeure f7B *** 19
132 Hoffman's Procedure f7A+ ** 2
133 Hoffmajeure f6C+ 3
134 Promontory Corner f4+ * 3
135 Promontory Flake f5+ * 3
136 Promontory Slab f5+ 2
  Lighthouse Beach
138 Fraggle Rock f3 * 7
139 Uncle Travelling Matt f5+ 6
140 Mokey Fraggle f4 * 5
141 Boober Fraggle f4+ * 7
142 Gobo Fraggle f5 * 6
143 Wembley Fraggle f5+ * 7
144 Red Fraggle f4 * 7
145 Gnat's Chuff f4+ * 4
146 Lighthouse Flake f3 * 9
147 Indecision f6A * 12
148 Indecision, Sit-start f6B+ *** 12
149 Cross Court f6A ** 9
150 Foghorn Leghorn f5+ 10
151 Foghorn Leghorn, Sit-start f6C * 3
152 Guiding Light f5+ 4
153 Keep Your Light On for Me f5 4
154 Cold Light of Day f4+ 3
155 Light Club f3 6
156 Miller Light f3 6
  Cafe Cove
158 Cheesy Chips f5+ * 3
159 Carrot Soup f6A * 3
160 Ploughman's Groove f4+ * 4
161 Clotted Cream f4+ * 4
162 Cheese Board f5+ * 6
163 Sunday Roast f5 ** 6
164 Light Bite f5 * 3
165 Crab Sandwiches f5+ ** 3
166 Dorset Cream Tea f5 * 2
167 Left Craven for More f5+ 7
  Hidden Cove
169 Keep Your Anemones Closer f6A 1
170 Sworn Anemone f6C ** 1
171 Once More For The Camera f5+ * 10
172 Cut, It's a Wrap f6A+ * 4
173 Champagne Breakfast f4+ 3
174 Low Bulge Traverse f6B+ ** 1
175 Sponsorship Scam f4 10
176 Not Worth the Licence Fee f5 9
177 Gone for Lunch f4+ 7
178 Cube Route f6A * 6
179 Mr Bicester f7A+ *** 2
180 Mrs Bicester f6A 4
181 Mr and Mrs f7A ** 3
182 Waste Pipe f3 8
183 Skid Mark f6A * 16
184 Guru Pete f5+ * 24
185 Warm-up Traverse f4+ * 5
186 Youth Of Today f4+ 15
187 Loaded Questions f5+ * 16
188 Hip and Trendy f5+ 23
189 The Hidden Traverse f6C+ ** 2
190 The Hidden Wall f6B+ *** 16
191 The Hidden Niche f6A+ ** 26
192 The Hidden Link f6B+ ** 2
193 The Hidden Eliminate f6B+ ** 12
194 The Hidden Crack f6B ** 16
195 The Hidden Groove f5 * 5
196 The Hidden Escape f5+ * 24
197 The Hidden Alternative f6A * 3
198 The Hidden Roof f5+ *** 21
199 The Hidden Jump f5+ ** 20
200 The Hidden Corner f6A * 2
201 The Unhidden Flake f5 * 1
202 The Unhidden Wall f6A ** 1
203 The Scary Roof Traverse V2 * 11
204 Buffery's Nose V2 3
205 Country File V0 14
206 Marsh Beauty V1 11
207 Marshmallow V0 7
208 Adams Triumph V2 14
  Barrel Zawn
210 Barrel Zawn Traverse f7B * 1
211 Eranu f7A *  
212 Uvarvu f7A+ *  
213 Barrel Roll f7A * 1
214 Barrel Groove f6C+ * 1
215 Cooper Trooper f6B+ * 1
216 Half Measures f6B+ *  
217 The Barrel f7A ** 3
218 Over a Barrel f6B * 5
219 Under a Barrel f6C+ *  
220 Rampline f5+ ** 9
221 Corner Layback f4+ 6
222 Deviant f6B 3
223 Cornflake f3+ 10
224 Hanging Slab f5+ ** 1
225 Hanging Slab Right f4+ * 1
226 Barrel Zawn Arete f6C **  
227 The Flake Escape f6C * 2
  Mugley's Plain
229 First Arete f6A * 3
230 Mugley Duckling f4+ 5
231 First Corner f4 7
232 Mugley's Slot f4+ * 4
233 Up and Over f3 9
234 Second Arete f4 10
235 Second Arete, Sit-start f5 * 8
236 Second Arete Right f4 7
237 Second Arete Right, Sit-start f4+ * 6
238 Rusty Wall f4+ * 10
239 Rusty Wall, Sit-start f5 * 10
240 Classic Flake f4 * 18
241 Mugley's Scoop f5+ 11
242 Descent Crack f3 20
243 The Good, the Bad, and the Mugley f5 8
244 Second Corner f5+ 12
245 Third Arete f5 * 11
246 Streaky Wall f6A 17
247 Mystery Bolt f6A+ 4
248 Third Corner f4 ** 26
249 Fourth Arete f4 17
250 Fourth Arete, Sit-start f5 10
251 Central Slab f3 18
252 Fourth Corner f3 20
253 Fifth Arete f3 16
254 Mind the Gap f5 12
255 Mugley's Ramp f5+ ** 13
256 Mugley's Ramp, Sit-start f6A ** 17
257 Mugley's Crack f4 * 14
258 Layaways f4+ * 12
259 Mugley's Intermittent Flake f4+ * 18
260 Mugley's Big Flake f4 19
261 Head Flake f4 15
262 Fifth Corner f3 16
263 Sixth Arete f6B+ * 15
264 The Other Side. V4+ * 1
265 Sixth Corner f3 12
266 Mugley Betty f5+ 18
267 Mugley's Flake f3 * 21
268 Flake Out f4+ * 12
269 CH Groove f5+ * 5
270 CH Groove, Sit-start f6A+ * 5
271 Mugley's Rib f6B+ * 3
272 Mugley's Rib, Sit-start f6B+ 2
273 Mugley's Groove f6A * 6
274 Mugley's Groove, Sit-start f6A 2
275 High Edge f5+ * 11
276 High Edge, Sit-start f6B * 4
277 Mugley's Wall f5+ * 9
278 Mugley's Wall, Sit-start f6A * 7
279 Seventh Arete f4 * 10
280 Mugley Ugg f4 4
281 Mugley's Traverse f6A 3
282 Eighth Arete f5+ * 2
283 Mugley As Sin f3 7
284 First and Last f5 * 4
  Deep Zawn
286 White Pony
-
V2 10
287 The World's Best Mono
-
V5 * 5
288 Salty Sea Dog 7a+ ** 1
289 Sugar Daddy
-
7a+ * 28
290 All Things Being Relative
-
6a+ 74
291 Relativity
-
6a+ 42
292 The Red Crane Traverse
-
5a ** 194
293 Red Crane Wall
-
6a 54
294 Wall of Squares
-
6a 60
  Red Crane Wall
296 Red Crane Groove f5 1
297 Red Crane Groove, Sit-start f6A 1
298 Red Crane Arete Left f6B ** 1
299 Red Crane Arete Left, Sit-start f6C+ ** 4
300 Red Crane Arete f6A ** 4
301 Red Crane Arete, Sit-start f6B+ ** 2
302 Red Crane Flake f5+ ** 4
303 Red Crane Flake, Sit-start f6A *** 10
304 Red Crane Eliminate f6A * 1
305 Red Crane Eliminate, Sit-start f6B+ ** 2
306 Red Crane Corner f3 7
307 Red Crane Notch f4+ * 3
308 Red Crane Notch, Sit-start f5+ 4
309 No Notch f5+ * 2
310 No Notch, Sit-start f6A * 2
311 Red Crane Crack f4+ * 3
312 Red Crane Crack, Sit-start f5+ * 2
313 Stepped Arete f3 * 3
314 Stepped Arete, Sit-start f4 * 2
315 No Arete f3 * 3
316 No Arete, Sit-start f6A * 2
317 Wide Groove f4 * 3
318 Wide Groove, Sit-start f6A * 2
319 Right Wall f6A 5
320 Right Wall, Sit-start f6B+ 4
321 The Pacifier f4+ * 5
322 The Pacifier, Sit-start f6A ** 4
323 Moment in Time f3 * 4
324 Chronostasis f5 * 6
325 Mania f4+ * 5
326 Dissociative Amnesia f3 * 5
327 Parallax Shift f4+ 7
328 Temporal Vortex f4 * 5
329 On European Time f3 * 4
330 Losing Time f3 3
  Hardy's Corner
332 Slopey Traverse f6A *** 8
333 Left Wall Traverse f6A+ ** 4
334 Full Traverse f6B+ ** 2
335 Magic Carpet f6A 7
336 Ninety Degrees f4+ ** 11
337 Set Square f5+ * 8
338 Le Crunch f6A * 3
339 Hardy's Corner f3 * 15
340 Parallelism f6A * 4
341 Pythagoras f6A * 11
342 Hardy's Wall f5 * 11
343 Hardy's Crack f4 ** 12
344 Brutal Hardy f6B * 11
345 Hardy Laid Back f6A+ * 6
346 Melting Point f5+ * 7
347 Right Wall Traverse f6B+ * 3
  Little Zawn
349 Against the Clock f5+ * 4
350 The Key f6A 2
351 Meter Revenge f6A+ * 4
352 Zero Traction f6A * 3
353 Amphidromic System f6A * 1
354 Tide Line f4+ * 5
355 Storm Surge f6B+ 1
356 Salt Water Intrusion f5+ 3
357 Nadir f6A+ * 1
358 Zenith f6A+ * 2
359 Syzygy f6A 5
360 Apogee f5+ 3
361 Perigee f5+ * 3
362 Ebb and Flow f4 * 4
  Pom Pom Beach
364 Nemean Lion f4 1
365 Lernaean Hydra f5+ * 1
366 Golden Hind of Artemis. f6A+ ** 1
367 Erymanthian Boar f5+ * 1
368 Augean Stables f4+ ** 2
369 Stymphalian Birds f4+ 1
370 Cretan Bull f4+ * 1
371 Mares of Diomedes f6A 1
372 Girdle of Hippolyta f6A+ ** 1
373 Geryon f6A * 1
374 Hesperides f3 * 1
375 Cerberus f4+ * 1
  Sector Pom Pom
377 El Scorchio 6c * 1
378 Maximum Grrr... 7b *  
379 The Favourite Game VD 3
380 L'Eau Profile 7c *  
381 Private Dancer 6b  
382 Jug City 4a 2
383 Jugalicious 3 3
384 Matt's Dilemma 3 14
385 Games Without Frontiers 4a 7
386 The Dog's Bollocks 6a 10
387 Time and Tide 4c 6
388 Thirty Years Young
-
E3 6b 1
389 Burbage Belle 7c *  
390 The Big Blue 7c+ ** 1
391 Ninth Wave 7a+ * 3
392 Zimmerframe with Attitude 7c 1
393 The O'lympets 6c+ 1
394 The Waveband V9 *** 1
395 Honorary Froggatt 7b+ * 1
396 Pocketful of Shells 7b 1
397 A Girl of the Limberlost 6b 1
398 The Temptress E1 6a 2
399 Island Spell VS 3
400 Flake Crack D 3
401 The Huts Have Eyes 6a+ 3
402 Somewhere West of Laramie 6a+ 2
403 Not in Kansas Anymore 6a+ 3
404 Mermaid D 3
405 Beautiful Losers VS 2
406 Hidden in Reverse V1 1
407 Humping Dog Head * f6A *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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