Climbs 386
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SE

Sam jumping End of Land © redsteve

Crag features

On the east coast of the southern tip of the isle are two small areas nestling under the lighthouses. Barrel Zawn is a pleasant little bouldering area with some intense and powerful problems on slopers and tiny crimps or pockets above a shingle beach. The beach can vary in height and the problems are at their best when the beach is low. Sector Pom Pom offers a similar style of power-packed routes situated in another delightful little bay with a a frozen wave of gritstone pitted with infrequent pockets.**SEE BELOW** Sadly neither place holds anything for beginners but both are great for a spot of sunbathing or a picnic and are only 300m from the car park. Irate landowner causes problems in summer. No legal reason for denying access but it is still best to keep away. A few metres south of Barrel Zawn is the excellent low/mid-grade bouldering area of Hidden Cove, with several quality problems in the range V1 to V6 above sandy landings.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Xhlx9wbs-0c [Stuart Morris]

Approach notes

Barrel Zawn and Hidden Cove - Park at the main Portland Bill car park (or for free back at the layby). From the lighthouse, walk behind the cafe. The north-facing zawn is found 100m left (looking out) up the coast path just before a large quarried rock platform. Hidden Cove is directly behind the white "building" by the Lobster Pot Cafe. Sector Pom Pom - Park as for Coastguard, in the layby before the Pulpit Inn. Walk down the road past the Pulpit Inn then, at the bend, head left down a private track with the open field on the right. Follow the track around past the beach huts to the cliff-top. Turn left then after 20m follow natural rock steps down into an open cove with a prominent pinnacle. To the left is a fine wave of rock.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Warm-up Wall
2 Entirely at Your Own Risk f5 11
3 Liable to Give Way f3 * 13
4 No Liability f5+ * 6
5 The Signs of the Times f5 * 22
6 The Warning Signs Were There f5+ * 21
7 Early Warning Signs f3 * 21
8 Stinkmata f6A ** 17
9 Iron Curtains f7A+ ** 2
10 Groove Left f5+ * 7
11 Groove Right f5+ * 8
12 Unblocked f5+ ** 4
13 Writer's Block f5+ 8
14 Block and Tackle f4+ 15
15 Blockbuster f5+ * 17
16 Blockhead f4 18
17 Breeze Block f4 16
18 Jenga Master f5+ * 14
19 Road Block f4 18
  Pulpit Overhang
21 Flake Escape f6A * 3
22 Rock-over Prolapse f6B+ *  
23 Sunset Sessions f4 * 2
24 Work Sucks f4+ * 3
25 Earth Shadow f6A *** 5
26 Analemma f6B+ * 1
27 Azimuth f5+ * 7
28 Winkle Picker f7A *** 1
29 Winkle Picker Direct f7B ***  
30 Pickled Winky f6C+ ** 1
31 Pickled Winky, Sit start f7A ** 1
32 Portland's Heel f6A+ 1
33 Forced Wide f4 * 2
34 Easy Groove f3 2
35 The Undateables f6A * 2
36 Date Night f6C+ *** 10
37 Double Date f6C *** 2
38 Time Lapse f6B ** 3
39 Flying Arete f6A * 1
40 Bent Pigeon
-
6c S0 *  
41 Clarence 6c * 1
  Pulpit Rock
43 Tombstonin'...
-
E3 6a * 3
44 End of the Land...
-
E4 5c *  
45 The Good of Sleep
-
E1 5a 2
46 Chymerie
-
HVS 4c * 1
47 Edge of Beyond
-
HVS 5c * 9
48 Bleating Nincompoops
-
4c 5
49 Rapture of the Deep
-
HVS 5b ** 11
50 Swirling Pool
-
HVS 5a * 5
  Undercut Buttress
52 Exhibitionism f5 * 1
53 A Public Spectacle f4 * 1
54 Roll Up, Roll Up f5+ * 1
55 Roll Up, Roll Up, Sit-start f6A * 1
56 Don't Look Johnny f4 * 1
57 Tourist Attraction f5 * 1
58 Curtain Call f4 * 1
59 Back Stage f6A 1
60 Exit Stage Left f6C ** 2
61 Exit Stage Right f6B+ ** 1
  Working Class Boulder
63 Working Class Man f4+ * 4
64 Twerking Class f5 * 4
  Swiss Cheese Wall
66 Cheese Slick f5+ ** 6
67 Many Tentacles Pimping on the Keys f4+ * 5
68 Reblochon f4 * 5
69 Emmentaler f4+ * 7
70 Sbrinz f3 * 6
71 Gruyère f5 * 5
72 Schabziger f6A * 1
73 Appenzeller f4+ ** 3
74 Bündner Bergkäse f5+ ** 3
75 Mutschli f5+ * 1
76 Raclette f5+ * 2
77 Tête de Moine f4+ * 2
78 Fribourgeois f4+ 1
79 Tilsiter f3 4
80 Mont d'Or f4+ 2
81 Formaggini f4+ * 4
82 Limburger f3 * 5
  Obelisk Wall
84 Terror Tactics f4+ 14
85 Kiss and Tell f6A * 2
86 The Poxley Pocket f6B * 2
87 Penny Lane f4+ * 15
88 Stake Through the Heart f6A 13
89 Ground Hogg Day f6A 4
90 Willow's Crack f4+ ** 15
91 Angel Dust f4+ *** 28
92 Batarang f6A * 3
93 Buffy's Groove f5 *** 27
94 Blade f6B *** 15
95 Vampire killers f5+ ** 18
96 Silver Bullet f3 20
97 Sea Spray f4+ * 22
98 Trinity Slab f5 * 8
99 Trinity Wall f3 * 8
100 Trinity Right-hand f4+ * 7
  Boulder Cove
102 Three Blind Spice f6B * 1
103 Old Spice f6B+ ** 2
104 Old Spice, Sit Start f6C ** 1
105 Five Spice f6C ** 2
106 Twice as Spice f6B * 1
107 Spice Squad f6A * 1
108 Naughty but Spice f5+ * 1
109 The Spice President f5+ 1
110 Of Spice and Men f4 2
111 Sharpe's Gold f4 * 2
112 Sharpe's Siege f6C * 3
113 Sharpe's Peril f5+ * 3
114 Sharpe's Peril, Sit-start f6A+ * 5
115 Sharpe's Eagle f5+ * 3
116 Sharpe's Eagle, Sit-start f6A+ 7
117 Sharpe's Sword f4 4
118 Sharpe's Sword, Sit-start f4+ 5
119 Sharpe's Traverse f6B ** 1
  Promontory Roof
121 Promontory Arete f4 2
122 Promontory Groove f3 2
123 Little Roof f4+ * 3
124 Riders on the Storm f7C+ *** 5
125 Devil Face f7A * 9
126 Devil Force f7B+ *** 2
127 Well Hung f7B+ *** 1
128 Children of Poseidon f8A ***  
129 Hungover f7B *** 1
130 Force Majeure f7B *** 19
131 Hoffman's Procedure f7A+ ** 2
132 Hoffmajeure f6C+ *** 3
133 Promontory Corner f4+ * 3
134 Promontory Flake f5+ * 3
135 Promontory Slab f5+ 2
  Lighthouse Beach
137 Fraggle Rock f3 * 7
138 Uncle Travelling Matt f5+ 6
139 Mokey Fraggle f4 * 5
140 Boober Fraggle f4+ * 7
141 Gobo Fraggle f5 * 6
142 Wembley Fraggle f5+ * 7
143 Red Fraggle f4 * 7
144 Gnat's Chuff f4+ * 4
145 Lighthouse Flake f3 * 9
146 Indecision f6A * 12
147 Indecision, Sit-start f6B+ *** 12
148 Cross Court f6A ** 9
149 Foghorn Leghorn f5+ 10
150 Foghorn Leghorn, Sit-start f6C * 3
151 Guiding Light f5+ 4
152 Keep Your Light On for Me f5 4
153 Cold Light of Day f4+ 3
154 Light Club f3 6
155 Miller Light f3 6
  Cafe Cove
157 Cheesy Chips f5+ * 3
158 Carrot Soup f6A * 3
159 Ploughman's Groove f4+ * 4
160 Clotted Cream f4+ * 4
161 Cheese Board f5+ * 6
162 Sunday Roast f5 ** 6
163 Light Bite f5 * 3
164 Crab Sandwiches f5+ ** 3
165 Dorset Cream Tea f5 * 2
166 Left Craven for More f5+ 7
  Hidden Cove
168 Keep Your Anemones Closer f6A 1
169 Sworn Anemone f6C ** 1
170 Once More For The Camera f5+ * 10
171 Cut, It's a Wrap f6A+ * 4
172 Champagne Breakfast f4+ 3
173 Low Bulge Traverse f6B+ ** 1
174 Sponsorship Scam f4 10
175 Not Worth the Licence Fee f5 9
176 Gone for Lunch f4+ 7
177 Cube Route f6A * 6
178 Mr Bicester f7A+ *** 2
179 Mrs Bicester f6A 4
180 Mr and Mrs f7A ** 3
181 Waste Pipe f3 8
182 Skid Mark f6A * 16
183 Guru Pete f5+ * 24
184 Warm-up Traverse f4+ * 5
185 Youth Of Today f4+ 15
186 Loaded Questions f5+ * 16
187 Hip and Trendy f5+ 23
188 The Hidden Traverse f6C+ ** 2
189 The Hidden Wall f6B+ *** 16
190 The Hidden Niche f6A+ ** 26
191 The Hidden Link f6B+ ** 2
192 The Hidden Eliminate f6B+ ** 12
193 The Hidden Crack f6B ** 16
194 The Hidden Groove f5 * 5
195 The Hidden Escape f5+ * 24
196 The Hidden Alternative f6A * 3
197 The Hidden Roof f5+ *** 21
198 The Hidden Jump f5+ ** 20
199 The Hidden Corner f6A * 2
200 The Unhidden Flake f5 * 1
201 The Unhidden Wall f6A ** 1
202 The Scary Roof Traverse V2 * 11
203 Buffery's Nose V2 3
204 Country File V0 14
205 Marsh Beauty V1 11
206 Marshmallow V0 7
207 Adams Triumph V2 14
  Barrel Zawn
209 Barrel Zawn Traverse f7B * 1
210 Eranu f7A *  
211 Uvarvu f7A+ *  
212 Barrel Roll f7A * 1
213 Barrel Groove f6C+ * 1
214 Cooper Trooper f6B+ * 1
215 Half Measures f6B+ *  
216 The Barrel f7A ** 3
217 Over a Barrel f6B * 5
218 Under a Barrel f6C+ *  
219 Rampline f5+ ** 9
220 Corner Layback f4+ 6
221 Deviant f6B 3
222 Cornflake f3+ 10
223 Hanging Slab f5+ ** 1
224 Hanging Slab Right f4+ * 1
225 Barrel Zawn Arete f6C **  
226 The Flake Escape f6C * 2
  Mugley's Plain
228 First Arete f6A * 3
229 Mugley Duckling f4+ 5
230 First Corner f4 7
231 Mugley's Slot f4+ * 4
232 Up and Over f3 9
233 Second Arete f4 10
234 Second Arete, Sit-start f5 * 8
235 Second Arete Right f4 7
236 Second Arete Right, Sit-start f4+ * 6
237 Rusty Wall f4+ * 10
238 Rusty Wall, Sit-start f5 * 10
239 Classic Flake f4 * 18
240 Mugley's Scoop f5+ 11
241 Descent Crack f3 20
242 The Good, the Bad, and the Mugley f5 8
243 Second Corner f5+ 12
244 Third Arete f5 * 11
245 Streaky Wall f6A 17
246 Mystery Bolt f6A+ 4
247 Third Corner f4 ** 26
248 Fourth Arete f4 17
249 Fourth Arete, Sit-start f5 10
250 Central Slab f3 18
251 Fourth Corner f3 20
252 Fifth Arete f3 16
253 Mind the Gap f5 12
254 Mugley's Ramp f5+ ** 13
255 Mugley's Ramp, Sit-start f6A ** 17
256 Mugley's Crack f4 * 14
257 Layaways f4+ * 12
258 Mugley's Intermittent Flake f4+ * 18
259 Mugley's Big Flake f4 19
260 Head Flake f4 15
261 Fifth Corner f3 16
262 Sixth Arete f6B+ * 15
263 The Other Side. V4+ * 1
264 Sixth Corner f3 12
265 Mugley Betty f5+ 18
266 Mugley's Flake f3 * 21
267 Flake Out f4+ * 12
268 CH Groove f5+ * 5
269 CH Groove, Sit-start f6A+ * 5
270 Mugley's Rib f6B+ * 3
271 Mugley's Rib, Sit-start f6B+ 2
272 Mugley's Groove f6A * 6
273 Mugley's Groove, Sit-start f6A 2
274 High Edge f5+ * 11
275 High Edge, Sit-start f6B * 4
276 Mugley's Wall f5+ * 9
277 Mugley's Wall, Sit-start f6A * 7
278 Seventh Arete f4 * 10
279 Mugley Ugg f4 4
280 Mugley's Traverse f6A 3
281 Eighth Arete f5+ * 2
282 Mugley As Sin f3 7
283 First and Last f5 * 4
  Deep Zawn
285 White Pony
-
V2 10
286 The World's Best Mono
-
V5 * 5
287 Salty Sea Dog 7a+ ** 1
288 Sugar Daddy
-
7a+ * 28
289 All Things Being Relative
-
6a+ 74
290 Relativity
-
6a+ 42
291 The Red Crane Traverse
-
5a ** 194
292 Red Crane Wall
-
6a 54
293 Wall of Squares
-
6a 60
  Red Crane Wall
295 Red Crane Groove f5 1
296 Red Crane Groove, Sit-start f6A 1
297 Red Crane Arete Left f6B ** 1
298 Red Crane Arete Left, Sit-start f6C+ ** 4
299 Red Crane Arete f6A ** 4
300 Red Crane Arete, Sit-start f6B+ ** 2
301 Red Crane Flake f5+ ** 4
302 Red Crane Flake, Sit-start f6A *** 10
303 Red Crane Eliminate f6A * 1
304 Red Crane Eliminate, Sit-start f6B+ ** 2
305 Red Crane Corner f3 7
306 Red Crane Notch f4+ * 3
307 Red Crane Notch, Sit-start f5+ 4
308 No Notch f5+ * 2
309 No Notch, Sit-start f6A * 2
310 Red Crane Crack f4+ * 3
311 Red Crane Crack, Sit-start f5+ * 2
312 Stepped Arete f3 * 3
313 Stepped Arete, Sit-start f4 * 2
314 No Arete f3 * 3
315 No Arete, Sit-start f6A * 2
316 Wide Groove f4 * 3
317 Wide Groove, Sit-start f6A * 2
318 Right Wall f6A 5
319 Right Wall, Sit-start f6B+ 4
320 The Pacifier f4+ * 5
321 The Pacifier, Sit-start f6A ** 4
322 Moment in Time f3 * 4
323 Chronostasis f5 * 6
324 Mania f4+ * 5
325 Dissociative Amnesia f3 * 5
326 Parallax Shift f4+ 7
327 Temporal Vortex f4 * 5
328 On European Time f3 * 4
329 Losing Time f3 3
  Hardy's Corner
331 Slopey Traverse f6A *** 8
332 Left Wall Traverse f6A+ ** 4
333 Full Traverse f6B+ ** 2
334 Magic Carpet f6A 7
335 Ninety Degrees f4+ ** 11
336 Set Square f5+ * 8
337 Le Crunch f6A * 3
338 Hardy's Corner f3 * 15
339 Parallelism f6A * 4
340 Pythagoras f6A * 11
341 Hardy's Wall f5 * 11
342 Hardy's Crack f4 ** 12
343 Brutal Hardy f6B * 11
344 Hardy Laid Back f6A+ * 6
345 Melting Point f5+ * 7
346 Right Wall Traverse f6B+ * 3
  Little Zawn
348 Against the Clock f5+ * 4
349 The Key f6A 2
350 Meter Revenge f6A+ * 4
351 Zero Traction f6A * 3
352 Amphidromic System f6A * 1
353 Tide Line f4+ * 5
354 Storm Surge f6B+ 1
355 Salt Water Intrusion f5+ 3
356 Nadir f6A+ * 1
357 Zenith f6A+ * 2
358 Syzygy f6A 5
359 Apogee f5+ 3
360 Perigee f5+ * 3
361 Ebb and Flow f4 * 4
  Pom Pom Beach
363 Nemean Lion f4 1
364 Lernaean Hydra f5+ * 1
365 Golden Hind of Artemis. f6A+ ** 1
366 Erymanthian Boar f5+ * 1
367 Augean Stables f4+ ** 2
368 Stymphalian Birds f4+ 1
369 Cretan Bull f4+ * 1
370 Mares of Diomedes f6A 1
371 Girdle of Hippolyta f6A+ ** 1
372 Geryon f6A * 1
373 Hesperides f3 * 1
374 Cerberus f4+ * 1
  Sector Pom Pom
376 El Scorchio 6c * 1
377 Maximum Grrr... 7b *  
378 The Favourite Game VD 3
379 L'Eau Profile 7c *  
380 Private Dancer 6b  
381 Jug City 4a 2
382 Jugalicious 3 3
383 Matt's Dilemma 3 14
384 Games Without Frontiers 4a 7
385 The Dog's Bollocks 6a 10
386 Time and Tide 4c 6
387 Thirty Years Young
-
E3 6b 1
388 Burbage Belle 7c *  
389 The Big Blue 7c+ ** 1
390 Ninth Wave 7a+ * 3
391 Zimmerframe with Attitude 7c 1
392 The O'lympets 6c+ 1
393 The Waveband V9 *** 1
394 Honorary Froggatt 7b+ * 1
395 Pocketful of Shells 7b 1
396 A Girl of the Limberlost 6b 1
397 The Temptress E1 6a 2
398 Island Spell VS 3
399 Flake Crack D 3
400 The Huts Have Eyes 6a+ 3
401 Somewhere West of Laramie 6a+ 2
402 Not in Kansas Anymore 6a+ 3
403 Mermaid D 3
404 Beautiful Losers VS 2
405 Hidden in Reverse V1 1
406 Humping Dog Head * f6A *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Ben Stokes and Marti999