UKC

Climbs 386
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces all

John Pullin climbing a classic problem (Font 4) at Hidden Cove, Portland © Ben Thorne

Crag features

This area has now become the haunt of the deep water soloist, however dotted along the cliff-line are some sport routes that are very different in style to those found elsewhere on the Isle. Most of the better climbs - both sport and DWS - are hard and very steep and require good conditions and favourable tides. Sector Pom Pom is a delightful little bay that contains a frozen wave of grit-like stone, pitted with infrequent pockets; the climbs being in the style of extended boulder problems. The rest of the Lighthouse Cliffs are composed of an intriguing labyrinth of caves, ledges and tunnels that are worth exploring for their scenic value alone.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See here for video.

Approach notes

All of the areas are best approached from the Portland Bill car park (fee).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Warm-up Wall
2 Entirely at Your Own Risk f5 15
3 Liable to Give Way f3 * 18
4 No Liability f5+ * 11
5 Humping Dog Head f6A * 2
6 The Signs of the Times f5 * 33
7 The Warning Signs Were There f5+ * 31
8 Early Warning Signs f3 * 26
9 Stinkmata f6A ** 27
10 Iron Curtains f7A+ ** 2
11 Groove Left f5+ * 11
12 Groove Right f5+ * 12
13 Unblocked f5+ ** 5
14 Writer's Block f5+ 12
15 Block and Tackle f4+ 17
16 Blockbuster f5+ * 21
17 Blockhead f4 22
18 Breeze Block f4 21
19 Jenga Master f5+ * 21
20 Road Block f4 25
  Pulpit Overhang
22 Flake Escape f6A * 4
23 Rock-over Prolapse f6B+ * 3
24 Sunset Sessions f4 * 3
25 Work Sucks f4+ * 5
26 Earth Shadow f6A *** 8
27 Analemma f6B+ * 3
28 Azimuth f5+ * 9
29 Winkle Picker f7A *** 2
30 Winkle Picker Direct f7B *** 1
31 Pickled Winky f6C+ ** 2
32 Pickled Winky, Sit-start f7A ** 2
33 Portland's Heel f6A+ * 2
34 Forced Wide f4 * 3
35 Easy Groove f3 3
36 The Undateables f6A * 3
37 Date Night f6C+ *** 19
38 Double Date f6C *** 3
39 Time Lapse f6B ** 4
40 Flying Arête f6A * 1
41 Bent Pigeon
-
6c S0 *  
42 Clarence 6c * 1
  Pulpit Rock
44 Tombstonin'...
-
E3 6a * 3
45 End of the Land...
-
E4 5c *  
46 The Good of Sleep
-
E1 5a 2
47 Chymerie
-
HVS 4c * 1
48 Edge of Beyond
-
HVS 5c * 10
49 Bleating Nincompoops
-
4c 6
50 Rapture of the Deep
-
HVS 5b ** 11
51 Swirling Pool
-
HVS 5a * 5
  Undercut Buttress
53 Exhibitionism f5 * 2
54 A Public Spectacle f4 * 2
55 Roll Up, Roll Up f5+ * 2
56 Roll Up, Roll Up, Sit-start f6A * 2
57 Don't Look Johnny f4 * 2
58 Tourist Attraction f5 * 2
59 Curtain Call f4 * 2
60 Back Stage f6A 3
61 Exit Stage Left f6C ** 4
62 Exit Stage Right f6B+ ** 3
  Working Class Boulder
64 Working Class Man f4+ * 7
65 Twerking Class f5 * 7
  Swiss Cheese Wall
67 Cheese Slick f5+ ** 11
68 Many Tentacles Pimping on the Keys f4+ * 8
69 Reblochon f4 * 9
70 Emmentaler f4+ * 10
71 Sbrinz f3 * 9
72 Gruyère f5 * 8
73 Schabziger f6A * 2
74 Appenzeller f4+ ** 4
75 Bündner Bergkäse f5+ ** 5
76 Mutschli f5+ * 2
77 Raclette f5+ * 3
78 Tête de Moine f4+ * 3
79 Fribourgeois f4+ 2
80 Tilsiter f3 6
81 Mont d'Or f4+ 4
82 Formaggini f4+ * 6
83 Limburger f3 * 7
  Obelisk Wall
85 Terror Tactics f4+ 14
86 Kiss and Tell f6A * 2
87 The Poxley Pocket f6B * 2
88 Penny Lane f4+ * 15
89 Stake Through the Heart f6A 13
90 Ground Hogg Day f6A 4
91 Willow's Crack f4+ ** 15
92 Angel Dust f4+ *** 35
93 Batarang f6A * 5
94 Buffy's Groove f5 *** 35
95 Blade f6B *** 18
96 Vampire killers f5+ ** 18
97 Silver Bullet f3 20
98 Sea Spray f4+ * 22
99 Trinity Slab f5 * 10
100 Trinity Wall f3 * 9
101 Trinity Right-hand f4+ * 8
  Boulder Cove
103 Three Blind Spice f6B * 2
104 Old Spice f6B+ ** 3
105 Old Spice, Sit-start f6C ** 2
106 Five Spice f6C ** 3
107 Twice as Spice f6B * 2
108 Spice Squad f6A * 2
109 Naughty but Spice f5+ * 2
110 The Spice President f5+ 2
111 Of Spice and Men f4 3
112 Sharpe's Gold f4 * 3
113 Sharpe's Siege f6C * 4
114 Sharpe's Peril f5+ * 5
115 Sharpe's Peril, Sit-start f6A+ * 6
116 Sharpe's Eagle f5+ * 4
117 Sharpe's Eagle, Sit-start f6A+ 9
118 Sharpe's Sword f4 6
119 Sharpe's Sword, Sit-start f4+ 6
120 Sharpe's Traverse f6B ** 2
  Promontory Roof
122 Promontory Arête f4 5
123 Promontory Groove f3 4
124 Little Roof f4+ * 5
125 Riders on the Storm f7C+ *** 3
126 Devil Face f7A * 14
127 Devil Force f7B+ ** 4
128 Storm Force f8A *** 1
129 Well Hung f7B+ *** 1
130 Children of Poseidon f8A *** 1
131 Hungover f7B *** 3
132 Force Majeure f7B *** 27
133 Hoffman's Procedure f7A+ ** 5
134 Hoffmajeure f6C+ 3
135 Promontory Corner f4+ * 4
136 Promontory Flake f5+ * 5
Climb name Grade
137 Promontory Slab f5+ 4
  Lighthouse Beach
139 Fraggle Rock f3 * 13
140 Uncle Travelling Matt f5+ 9
141 Mokey Fraggle f4 * 11
142 Boober Fraggle f4+ * 12
143 Gobo Fraggle f5 * 8
144 Wembley Fraggle f5+ * 10
145 Red Fraggle f4 * 11
146 Gnat's Chuff f4+ * 9
147 Lighthouse Flake f3 * 15
148 Indecision f6A * 18
149 Indecision, Sit-start f6B+ *** 13
150 Cross Court f6A ** 12
151 Foghorn Leghorn f5+ 14
152 Foghorn Leghorn, Sit-start f6C * 3
153 Guiding Light f5+ 9
154 Keep Your Light On for Me f5 8
155 Cold Light of Day f4+ 7
156 Light Club f3 10
157 Miller Light f3 10
  Cafe Cove
159 Cheesy Chips f5+ * 3
160 Carrot Soup f6A * 4
161 Ploughman's Groove f4+ * 4
162 Clotted Cream f4+ * 4
163 Cheese Board f5+ * 6
164 Sunday Roast f5 ** 7
165 Light Bite f5 * 4
166 Crab Sandwiches f5+ ** 4
167 Dorset Cream Tea f5 * 3
  Hidden Cove
169 Keep Your Anemones Closer f6A 1
170 Sworn Anemone f6C ** 1
171 Once More for the Camera f5+ * 10
172 Cut, It's a Wrap f6A+ * 5
173 Champagne Breakfast f4+ 5
174 Low Bulge Traverse f6B+ ** 1
175 Sponsorship Scam f4 15
176 Not Worth the Licence Fee f5 11
177 Gone for Lunch f4+ 10
178 Cube Route f6A * 11
179 Mr Bicester f7A+ *** 3
180 Mrs Bicester f6A 6
181 Mr and Mrs f7A ** 3
182 Waste Pipe f3 12
183 Skid Mark f6A * 19
184 Left Craven for More f5+ 9
185 Guru Pete f5+ * 28
186 Warm-up Traverse f4+ * 9
187 Youth of Today f4+ 16
188 Loaded Questions f5+ * 17
189 Hip and Trendy f5+ 26
190 The Hidden Traverse f6C+ ** 2
191 The Hidden Wall f6B+ *** 16
192 The Hidden Niche f6A+ ** 28
193 The Hidden Link f6B+ ** 2
194 The Hidden Eliminate f6B+ ** 12
195 The Hidden Crack f6B ** 17
196 The Hidden Groove f5 * 8
197 The Hidden Escape f5+ * 26
198 The Hidden Alternative f6A * 3
199 The Hidden Roof f5+ *** 23
200 The Hidden Jump f5+ ** 21
201 The Hidden Corner f6A * 2
202 The Unhidden Flake f5 * 1
203 The Unhidden Wall f6A ** 1
204 The Scary Roof Traverse V2 * 11
205 Buffery's Nose V2 3
206 Country File V0 14
207 Marsh Beauty V1 11
208 Marshmallow V0 7
209 Adams Triumph V2 14
  Barrel Zawn
211 Barrel Zawn Traverse f7B * 2
212 Eranu f7A *  
213 Uvarvu f7A+ *  
214 Barrel Roll f7A * 1
215 Barrel Groove f6C+ * 1
216 Cooper Trooper f6B+ * 1
217 Half Measures f6B+ *  
218 The Barrel f7A ** 3
219 Over a Barrel f6B * 5
220 Under a Barrel f6C+ *  
221 Rampline f5+ ** 9
222 Corner Layback f4+ 6
223 Deviant f6B 3
224 Cornflake f3+ 11
225 Hanging Slab f5+ ** 1
226 Hanging Slab Right f4+ * 1
227 Barrel Zawn Arête f6C ** 1
228 The Flake Escape f6C * 2
  Mugley's Plain
230 First Arête f6A * 6
231 Mugley Duckling f4+ 8
232 First Corner f4 12
233 Mugley's Slot f4+ * 8
234 Up and Over f3 14
235 Second Arête f4 16
236 Second Arête, Sit-start f5 * 17
237 Second Arête Right f4 14
238 Second Arête Right, Sit-start f4+ * 11
239 Rusty Wall f4+ * 15
240 Rusty Wall, Sit-start f5 * 16
241 Classic Flake f4 * 28
242 Mugley's Scoop f5+ 16
243 Descent Crack f3 30
244 The Good, the Bad, and the Mugley f5 14
245 Second Corner f5+ 20
246 Third Arête f5 * 17
247 Streaky Wall f6A 26
248 Mystery Bolt f6A+ 6
249 Third Corner f4 ** 38
250 Fourth Arête f4 22
251 Fourth Arête, Sit-start f5 19
252 Central Slab f3 26
253 Fourth Corner f3 28
254 Fifth Arête f3 24
255 Mind the Gap f5 22
256 Mugley's Ramp f5+ ** 21
257 Mugley's Ramp, Sit-start f6A ** 25
258 Mugley's Crack f4 * 23
259 Layaways f4+ * 16
260 Mugley's Intermittent Flake f4+ * 23
261 Mugley's Big Flake f4 24
262 Head Flake f4 20
263 Fifth Corner f3 22
264 Sixth Arête f6B+ * 16
265 The Other Side. V4+ * 2
266 Sixth Corner f3 16
267 Mugley Betty f5+ 22
268 Mugley's Flake f3 * 30
269 Flake Out f4+ * 18
270 CH Groove f5+ * 6
271 CH Groove, Sit-start f6A+ * 6
272 Mugley's Rib f6B+ * 4
Climb name Grade
273 Mugley's Rib, Sit-start f6B+ 2
274 Mugley's Groove f6A * 9
275 Mugley's Groove, Sit-start f6A 4
276 High Edge f5+ * 13
277 High Edge, Sit-start f6B * 6
278 Mugley's Wall f5+ * 9
279 Mugley's Wall, Sit-start f6A * 8
280 Seventh Arête f4 * 11
281 Mugley Ugg f4 4
282 Mugley's Traverse f6A 3
283 Eighth Arête f5+ * 2
284 Mugley As Sin f3 7
285 First and Last f5 * 4
  Deep Zawn
287 White Pony
-
V2 10
288 The World's Best Mono
-
V5 * 5
289 Salty Sea Dog 7a+ ** 1
290 Sugar Daddy
-
7a+ * 30
291 All Things Being Relative
-
6a+ 78
292 Relativity
-
6a+ 45
293 The Red Crane Traverse
-
5a ** 201
294 Wall of Squares
-
6a 64
295 Red Crane Wall
-
6a 59
  Red Crane Wall
297 Red Crane Groove f5 2
298 Red Crane Groove, Sit-start f6A 1
299 Red Crane Arête Left f6B ** 1
300 Red Crane Arête Left, Sit-start f6C+ ** 4
301 Red Crane Arête f6A ** 4
302 Red Crane Arête, Sit-start f6B+ ** 2
303 Red Crane Flake f5+ ** 7
304 Red Crane Flake, Sit-start f6A *** 11
305 Red Crane Eliminate f6A * 1
306 Red Crane Eliminate, Sit-start f6B+ ** 2
307 Red Crane Corner f3 10
308 Red Crane Notch f4+ * 6
309 Red Crane Notch, Sit-start f5+ 5
310 No Notch f5+ * 5
311 No Notch, Sit-start f6A * 2
312 Red Crane Crack f4+ * 5
313 Red Crane Crack, Sit-start f5+ * 2
314 Stepped Arête f3 * 5
315 Stepped Arête, Sit-start f4 * 3
316 No Arête f3 * 6
317 No Arête, Sit-start f6A * 2
318 Wide Groove f4 * 6
319 Wide Groove, Sit-start f6A * 3
320 Right Wall f6A 7
321 Right Wall, Sit-start f6B+ 4
322 The Pacifier f4+ * 8
323 The Pacifier, Sit-start f6A ** 5
324 Moment in Time f3 * 7
325 Chronostasis f5 * 9
326 Mania f4+ * 8
327 Dissociative Amnesia f3 * 8
328 Parallax Shift f4+ 9
329 Temporal Vortex f4 * 7
330 On European Time f3 * 6
331 Losing Time f3 6
  Hardy's Corner
333 Slopey Traverse f6A *** 7
334 Left Wall Traverse f6A+ ** 5
335 Full Traverse f6B+ ** 2
336 Magic Carpet f6A 9
337 Ninety Degrees f4+ ** 14
338 Set Square f5+ * 11
339 Le Crunch f6A * 4
340 Hardy's Corner f3 * 18
341 Parallelism f6A * 4
342 Pythagoras f6A * 14
343 Hardy's Wall f5 * 13
344 Hardy's Crack f4 ** 15
345 Brutal Hardy f6B * 12
346 Hardy Laid Back f6A+ * 8
347 Melting Point f5+ * 8
348 Right Wall Traverse f6B+ * 4
  Little Zawn
350 Against the Clock f5+ * 4
351 The Key f6A 2
352 Meter Revenge f6A+ * 4
353 Zero Traction f6A * 3
354 Amphidromic System f6A * 1
355 Tide Line f4+ * 5
356 Storm Surge f6B+ 1
357 Salt Water Intrusion f5+ 3
358 Nadir f6A+ * 1
359 Zenith f6A+ * 2
360 Syzygy f6A 6
361 Apogee f5+ 3
362 Perigee f5+ * 3
363 Ebb and Flow f4 * 4
  Sector Pom Pom
365 El Scorchio 6c * 1
366 Maximum Grrr... 7b *  
367 The Favourite Game VD 3
368 Beautiful Losers VS 2
369 L'Eau Profile 7c *  
370 Private Dancer 6b  
371 Jug City 4a 2
372 Jugalicious 3a 3
373 Matt's Dilemma 3a 14
374 Games Without Frontiers 4a 7
375 The Dog's Bollocks 6a 10
376 Time and Tide 4c 6
377 Thirty Years Young
-
E3 6b 1
378 Burbage Belle 7c *  
379 The Big Blue 7c+ ** 1
380 Ninth Wave 7a+ * 3
381 Zimmerframe with Attitude 7c 1
382 The O'lympets 6c+ 1
383 The Waveband V9 *** 1
384 Honorary Froggatt 7b+ * 1
385 Pocketful of Shells 7b 1
386 A Girl of the Limberlost 6b 1
387 The Temptress E1 6a 2
388 Island Spell VS 3
389 Flake Crack D 3
390 The Huts Have Eyes 6a+ 3
391 Somewhere West of Laramie 6a+ 2
392 Not in Kansas Anymore 6a+ 3
393 Mermaid D 3
  Pom Pom Beach
395 Nemean Lion f4 5
396 Lernaean Hydra f5+ * 4
397 Golden Hind of Artemis. f6A+ ** 2
398 Erymanthian Boar f5+ * 5
399 Augean Stables f4+ ** 6
400 Stymphalian Birds f4+ 5
401 Cretan Bull f4+ * 5
402 Mares of Diomedes f6A 2
403 Girdle of Hippolyta f6A+ ** 1
404 Geryon f6A * 4
405 Hesperides f3 * 4
406 Cerberus f4+ * 4

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