Climbs 387
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces all

View Stats

John Pullin climbing a classic problem (Font 4) at Hidden Cove, Portland © Ben Thorne

Crag features

This area has now become the haunt of the deep water soloist, however dotted along the cliff-line are some sport routes that are very different in style to those found elsewhere on the Isle. Most of the better climbs - both sport and DWS - are hard and very steep and require good conditions and favourable tides. Sector Pom Pom is a delightful little bay that contains a frozen wave of grit-like stone, pitted with infrequent pockets; the climbs being in the style of extended boulder problems. The rest of the Lighthouse Cliffs are composed of an intriguing labyrinth of caves, ledges and tunnels that are worth exploring for their scenic value alone.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See here for video.

Approach notes

All of the areas are best approached from the Portland Bill car park (fee).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Warm-up Wall
2 Entirely at Your Own Risk f5 16
3 Liable to Give Way f3 * 20
4 No Liability f5+ * 12
5 Humping Dog Head f6A * 2
6 The Signs of the Times f5 * 35
7 The Warning Signs Were There f5+ * 33
8 Early Warning Signs f3 * 29
9 Stinkmata f6A ** 27
10 Iron Curtains f7A+ ** 2
11 Groove Left f5+ * 9
12 Groove Right f5+ * 10
13 Unblocked f5+ ** 6
14 Writer's Block f5+ 12
15 Block and Tackle f4+ 16
16 Blockbuster f5+ * 22
17 Blockhead f4 22
18 Breeze Block f4 21
19 Jenga Master f5+ * 22
20 Road Block f4 25
  Pulpit Overhang
22 Flake Escape f6A * 4
23 Rock-over Prolapse f6B+ * 3
24 Sunset Sessions f4 * 3
25 Work Sucks f4+ * 5
26 Earth Shadow f6A *** 8
27 Analemma f6B+ * 3
28 Azimuth f5+ * 9
29 Winkle Picker f7A *** 3
30 Winkle Picker Direct f7B *** 2
31 Pickled Winky f6C+ ** 2
32 Pickled Winky, Sit-start f7A ** 2
33 Portland's Heel f6A+ * 2
34 Forced Wide f4 * 3
35 Easy Groove f3 3
36 The Undateables f6A * 3
37 Date Night f6C+ *** 22
38 Double Date f6C *** 3
39 Time Lapse f6B ** 4
40 Flying Arête f6A * 1
41 Bent Pigeon
-
6c S0 *  
42 Clarence 6c * 1
43 Winkle Pickler * f7A ** 1
  Pulpit Rock
45 Tombstonin'...
-
E3 6a * 3
46 End of the Land...
-
E4 5c *  
47 The Good of Sleep
-
E1 5a 2
48 Chymerie
-
HVS 4c * 1
49 Edge of Beyond
-
HVS 5c * 10
50 Bleating Nincompoops
-
4c 6
51 Rapture of the Deep
-
HVS 5b ** 11
52 Swirling Pool
-
HVS 5a * 5
  Undercut Buttress
54 Exhibitionism f5 * 3
55 A Public Spectacle f4 * 2
56 Roll Up, Roll Up f5+ * 2
57 Roll Up, Roll Up, Sit-start f6A * 2
58 Don't Look Johnny f4 * 2
59 Tourist Attraction f5 * 3
60 Curtain Call f4 * 2
61 Back Stage f6A 3
62 Exit Stage Left f6C ** 4
63 Exit Stage Right f6B+ ** 3
  Working Class Boulder
65 Working Class Man f4+ * 7
66 Twerking Class f5 * 7
  Swiss Cheese Wall
68 Cheese Slick f5+ ** 13
69 Many Tentacles Pimping on the Keys f4+ * 9
70 Reblochon f4 * 11
71 Emmentaler f4+ * 12
72 Sbrinz f3 * 11
73 Gruyère f5 * 10
74 Schabziger f6A * 3
75 Appenzeller f4+ ** 4
76 Bündner Bergkäse f5+ ** 5
77 Mutschli f5+ * 2
78 Raclette f5+ * 4
79 Tête de Moine f4+ * 8
80 Fribourgeois f4+ 6
81 Tilsiter f3 6
82 Mont d'Or f4+ 4
83 Formaggini f4+ * 6
84 Limburger f3 * 7
  Obelisk Wall
86 Terror Tactics f4+ 14
87 Kiss and Tell f6A * 2
88 The Poxley Pocket f6B * 2
89 Penny Lane f4+ * 15
90 Stake Through the Heart f6A 13
91 Ground Hogg Day f6A 4
92 Willow's Crack f4+ ** 15
93 Angel Dust f4+ *** 36
94 Batarang f6A * 5
95 Buffy's Groove f5 *** 38
96 Blade f6B *** 20
97 Vampire killers f5+ ** 18
98 Silver Bullet f3 20
99 Sea Spray f4+ * 23
100 Trinity Slab f5 * 10
101 Trinity Wall f3 * 9
102 Trinity Right-hand f4+ * 8
  Boulder Cove
104 Three Blind Spice f6B * 2
105 Old Spice f6B+ ** 3
106 Old Spice, Sit-start f6C ** 2
107 Five Spice f6C ** 3
108 Twice as Spice f6B * 2
109 Spice Squad f6A * 3
110 Naughty but Spice f5+ * 2
111 The Spice President f5+ 2
112 Of Spice and Men f4 5
113 Sharpe's Gold f4 * 3
114 Sharpe's Siege f6C * 4
115 Sharpe's Peril f5+ * 7
116 Sharpe's Peril, Sit-start f6A+ * 8
117 Sharpe's Eagle f5+ * 5
118 Sharpe's Eagle, Sit-start f6A+ 11
119 Sharpe's Sword f4 9
120 Sharpe's Sword, Sit-start f4+ 10
121 Sharpe's Traverse f6B ** 2
  Promontory Roof
123 Promontory Arête f4 5
124 Promontory Groove f3 4
125 Little Roof f4+ * 5
126 Riders on the Storm f7C+ *** 4
127 Devil Face f7A * 14
128 Devil Force f7B+ ** 4
129 Storm Force f8A *** 1
130 Well Hung f7B+ *** 1
131 Children of Poseidon f8A *** 1
132 Hungover f7B *** 3
133 Force Majeure f7B *** 27
134 Hoffman's Procedure f7A+ ** 5
135 Hoffmajeure f6C+ 3
136 Promontory Corner f4+ * 5
Climb name Grade
137 Promontory Flake f5+ * 5
138 Promontory Slab f5+ 4
  Lighthouse Beach
140 Fraggle Rock f3 * 14
141 Uncle Travelling Matt f5+ 11
142 Mokey Fraggle f4 * 13
143 Boober Fraggle f4+ * 13
144 Gobo Fraggle f5 * 9
145 Wembley Fraggle f5+ * 11
146 Red Fraggle f4 * 13
147 Gnat's Chuff f4+ * 11
148 Lighthouse Flake f3 * 17
149 Indecision f6A * 22
150 Indecision, Sit-start f6B+ *** 16
151 Cross Court f6A ** 15
152 Foghorn Leghorn f5+ 17
153 Foghorn Leghorn, Sit-start f6C * 4
154 Guiding Light f5+ 9
155 Keep Your Light On for Me f5 8
156 Cold Light of Day f4+ 8
157 Light Club f3 10
158 Miller Light f3 10
  Cafe Cove
160 Cheesy Chips f5+ * 6
161 Carrot Soup f6A * 5
162 Ploughman's Groove f4+ * 5
163 Clotted Cream f4+ * 7
164 Cheese Board f5+ * 8
165 Sunday Roast f5 ** 9
166 Light Bite f5 * 6
167 Crab Sandwiches f5+ ** 6
168 Dorset Cream Tea f5 * 5
  Hidden Cove
170 Keep Your Anemones Closer f6A 1
171 Sworn Anemone f6C ** 1
172 Once More for the Camera f5+ * 11
173 Cut, It's a Wrap f6A+ * 6
174 Champagne Breakfast f4+ 6
175 Low Bulge Traverse f6B+ ** 1
176 Sponsorship Scam f4 18
177 Not Worth the Licence Fee f5 14
178 Gone for Lunch f4+ 12
179 Cube Route f6A * 12
180 Mr Bicester f7A+ *** 4
181 Mrs Bicester f6A 6
182 Mr and Mrs f7A ** 3
183 Waste Pipe f3 15
184 Skid Mark f6A * 19
185 Left Craven for More f5+ 11
186 Guru Pete f5+ * 32
187 Warm-up Traverse f4+ * 12
188 Youth of Today f4+ 17
189 Loaded Questions f5+ * 17
190 Hip and Trendy f5+ 27
191 The Hidden Traverse f6C+ ** 2
192 The Hidden Wall f6B+ *** 17
193 The Hidden Niche f6A+ ** 29
194 The Hidden Link f6B+ ** 2
195 The Hidden Eliminate f6B+ ** 12
196 The Hidden Crack f6B ** 17
197 The Hidden Groove f5 * 10
198 The Hidden Escape f5+ * 27
199 The Hidden Alternative f6A * 3
200 The Hidden Roof f5+ *** 23
201 The Hidden Jump f5+ ** 22
202 The Hidden Corner f6A * 2
203 The Unhidden Flake f5 * 1
204 The Unhidden Wall f6A ** 1
205 The Scary Roof Traverse V2 * 11
206 Buffery's Nose V2 3
207 Country File V0 14
208 Marsh Beauty V1 11
209 Marshmallow V0 7
210 Adams Triumph V2 14
  Barrel Zawn
212 Barrel Zawn Traverse f7B * 2
213 Eranu f7A *  
214 Uvarvu f7A+ *  
215 Barrel Roll f7A * 1
216 Barrel Groove f6C+ * 1
217 Cooper Trooper f6B+ * 1
218 Half Measures f6B+ *  
219 The Barrel f7A ** 3
220 Over a Barrel f6B * 5
221 Under a Barrel f6C+ *  
222 Rampline f5+ ** 9
223 Corner Layback f4+ 6
224 Deviant f6B 3
225 Cornflake f3+ 11
226 Hanging Slab f5+ ** 1
227 Hanging Slab Right f4+ * 1
228 Barrel Zawn Arête f6C ** 1
229 The Flake Escape f6C * 2
  Mugley's Plain
231 First Arête f6A * 6
232 Mugley Duckling f4+ 9
233 First Corner f4 13
234 Mugley's Slot f4+ * 10
235 Up and Over f3 15
236 Second Arête f4 17
237 Second Arête, Sit-start f5 * 18
238 Second Arête Right f4 15
239 Second Arête Right, Sit-start f4+ * 14
240 Rusty Wall f4+ * 16
241 Rusty Wall, Sit-start f5 * 19
242 Classic Flake f4 * 31
243 Mugley's Scoop f5+ 17
244 Descent Crack f3 36
245 The Good, the Bad, and the Mugley f5 20
246 Second Corner f5+ 22
247 Third Arête f5 * 19
248 Streaky Wall f6A 28
249 Mystery Bolt f6A+ 6
250 Third Corner f4 ** 41
251 Fourth Arête f4 23
252 Fourth Arête, Sit-start f5 21
253 Central Slab f3 27
254 Fourth Corner f3 30
255 Fifth Arête f3 25
256 Mind the Gap f5 22
257 Mugley's Ramp f5+ ** 23
258 Mugley's Ramp, Sit-start f6A ** 30
259 Mugley's Crack f4 * 24
260 Layaways f4+ * 16
261 Mugley's Intermittent Flake f4+ * 24
262 Mugley's Big Flake f4 24
263 Head Flake f4 22
264 Fifth Corner f3 23
265 Sixth Arête f6B+ * 16
266 The Other Side. V4+ * 2
267 Sixth Corner f3 16
268 Mugley Betty f5+ 22
269 Mugley's Flake f3 * 32
270 Flake Out f4+ * 19
271 CH Groove f5+ * 6
272 CH Groove, Sit-start f6A+ * 6
Climb name Grade
273 Mugley's Rib f6B+ * 4
274 Mugley's Rib, Sit-start f6B+ 2
275 Mugley's Groove f6A * 12
276 Mugley's Groove, Sit-start f6A 4
277 High Edge f5+ * 13
278 High Edge, Sit-start f6B * 6
279 Mugley's Wall f5+ * 9
280 Mugley's Wall, Sit-start f6A * 8
281 Seventh Arête f4 * 11
282 Mugley Ugg f4 4
283 Mugley's Traverse f6A 3
284 Eighth Arête f5+ * 2
285 Mugley As Sin f3 8
286 First and Last f5 * 4
  Deep Zawn
288 White Pony
-
V2 11
289 The World's Best Mono
-
V5 * 5
290 Salty Sea Dog 7a+ ** 1
291 Sugar Daddy
-
7a+ * 30
292 All Things Being Relative
-
6a+ 80
293 Relativity
-
6a+ 46
294 The Red Crane Traverse
-
5a ** 203
295 Wall of Squares
-
6a 65
296 Red Crane Wall
-
6a 60
  Red Crane Wall
298 Red Crane Groove f5 2
299 Red Crane Groove, Sit-start f6A 1
300 Red Crane Arête Left f6B ** 1
301 Red Crane Arête Left, Sit-start f6C+ ** 4
302 Red Crane Arête f6A ** 5
303 Red Crane Arête, Sit-start f6B+ ** 2
304 Red Crane Flake f5+ ** 9
305 Red Crane Flake, Sit-start f6A *** 12
306 Red Crane Eliminate f6A * 1
307 Red Crane Eliminate, Sit-start f6B+ ** 2
308 Red Crane Corner f3 11
309 Red Crane Notch f4+ * 6
310 Red Crane Notch, Sit-start f5+ 5
311 No Notch f5+ * 5
312 No Notch, Sit-start f6A * 2
313 Red Crane Crack f4+ * 5
314 Red Crane Crack, Sit-start f5+ * 2
315 Stepped Arête f3 * 6
316 Stepped Arête, Sit-start f4 * 4
317 No Arête f3 * 7
318 No Arête, Sit-start f6A * 3
319 Wide Groove f4 * 7
320 Wide Groove, Sit-start f6A * 5
321 Right Wall f6A 8
322 Right Wall, Sit-start f6B+ 5
323 The Pacifier f4+ * 11
324 The Pacifier, Sit-start f6A ** 8
325 Moment in Time f3 * 8
326 Chronostasis f5 * 11
327 Mania f4+ * 9
328 Dissociative Amnesia f3 * 9
329 Parallax Shift f4+ 11
330 Temporal Vortex f4 * 8
331 On European Time f3 * 7
332 Losing Time f3 8
  Hardy's Corner
334 Slopey Traverse f6A *** 7
335 Left Wall Traverse f6A+ ** 5
336 Full Traverse f6B+ ** 2
337 Magic Carpet f6A 9
338 Ninety Degrees f4+ ** 14
339 Set Square f5+ * 11
340 Le Crunch f6A * 5
341 Hardy's Corner f3 * 18
342 Parallelism f6A * 4
343 Pythagoras f6A * 15
344 Hardy's Wall f5 * 13
345 Hardy's Crack f4 ** 17
346 Brutal Hardy f6B * 15
347 Hardy Laid Back f6A+ * 10
348 Melting Point f5+ * 8
349 Right Wall Traverse f6B+ * 4
  Little Zawn
351 Against the Clock f5+ * 5
352 The Key f6A 3
353 Meter Revenge f6A+ * 5
354 Zero Traction f6A * 3
355 Amphidromic System f6A * 2
356 Tide Line f4+ * 6
357 Storm Surge f6B+ 1
358 Salt Water Intrusion f5+ 4
359 Nadir f6A+ * 2
360 Zenith f6A+ * 2
361 Syzygy f6A 7
362 Apogee f5+ 4
363 Perigee f5+ * 3
364 Ebb and Flow f4 * 5
  Sector Pom Pom
366 El Scorchio 6c * 1
367 Maximum Grrr... 7b *  
368 The Favourite Game VD 3
369 Beautiful Losers VS 2
370 L'Eau Profile 7c *  
371 Private Dancer 6b  
372 Jug City 4a 2
373 Jugalicious 3a 4
374 Matt's Dilemma 3a 14
375 Games Without Frontiers 4a 7
376 The Dog's Bollocks 6a 10
377 Time and Tide 4c 6
378 Thirty Years Young
-
E3 6b 1
379 Burbage Belle 7c *  
380 The Big Blue 7c+ ** 1
381 Ninth Wave 7a+ * 3
382 Zimmerframe with Attitude 7c 1
383 The O'lympets 6c+ 1
384 The Waveband V9 *** 1
385 Honorary Froggatt 7b+ * 1
386 Pocketful of Shells 7b 1
387 A Girl of the Limberlost 6b 1
388 The Temptress E1 6a 2
389 Island Spell VS 3
390 Flake Crack D 3
391 The Huts Have Eyes 6a+ 3
392 Somewhere West of Laramie 6a+ 2
393 Not in Kansas Anymore 6a+ 3
394 Mermaid D 3
  Pom Pom Beach
396 Nemean Lion f4 5
397 Lernaean Hydra f5+ * 4
398 Golden Hind of Artemis. f6A+ ** 2
399 Erymanthian Boar f5+ * 5
400 Augean Stables f4+ ** 6
401 Stymphalian Birds f4+ 5
402 Cretan Bull f4+ * 5
403 Mares of Diomedes f6A 2
404 Girdle of Hippolyta f6A+ ** 1
405 Geryon f6A * 4
406 Hesperides f3 * 4
407 Cerberus f4+ * 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Ben Stokes and Marti999