UKC

Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 7m a.s.l
Faces E

Snapping holds on something hard © Dr Avid

Crag features

Cave Hole is a long low line of super-steep sea cliffs that are tucked away on the far end of the Isle. It is a fascinating area that is made up of a labyrinth of caves, ledges and tunnels that are worth exploring for their scenic value alone. For the climber however, the Cave Hole area dispels the myth that Portland is all about vertical walls full of crimpy holds. Many powerful routes cross the huge banded roofs whilst others take on the vertical ground in between and, although not much more than ten metres in height, the nature of the climbing packs in the moves. The area includes a couple of the biggest bolted roofs anywhere in the south-west. In addition to the bolted climbs, there are plenty of good deep water solos and this is a great spot to spend time in the summer although the tide window is limiting.

Approach notes

All of the areas are best approached from the Portland Bill car park (fee).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Too Funky Beach Area
2 Memory Lane
-
6a * 16
3 Up, Up and Away
-
E2 6b 3
4 Once Were Warriors
-
7c ** 1
5 Cold Feet 6b * 2
6 Penny Lane 6a+ * 8
7 Too Funky for Me
-
6b+ * 9
8 The Big Boss
-
7a 1
9 Marine Boy
-
6b+ * 10
10 Marine Boy Direct
-
6c 8
11 Godzuki
-
6a+ * 13
12 Makin' Bacon
-
6a * 21
13 Trashy's Traverse
-
6b+ * 2
14 Eight Inches 7a * 6
  Desperado Cave
16 Desperado 6b * 30
17 Psychoman 6a+ * 5
18 Mike's Free Will 6c * 2
19 Lick of the Cat 6b+ ** 1
20 Pirates of the Black Atlantic 6a+ * 1
21 Surface Tension 6c+ **  
22 Temporary Lifestyle HS 4b ** 392
23 Underlife 7a 10
  Ixtlan Area
25 Babes and Bedsheets
-
E5 6a 2
26 Foxy Chicks E2 5c * 60
27 Reel 'Em In E2 6a * 51
28 Aquamarina E4 6b * 10
29 The Little Hard E3 5c * 24
30 Big Easy Arête HVS 5a * 90
31 The Big Easy E1 5c ** 190
32 Massive Amounts of Strength 7b  
33 Huge Reaches 7a+ 1
Climb name Grade
34 Lunge or Plunge 7a+ * 4
35 Ixtlan E2 5b ** 147
36 Karma E3 5c ** 12
37 Mad About You E3 6a * 10
38 Russian Roulette E3 6a *** 71
  Crab Party Area
40 Captain Haddock E2 5b * 19
41 Flipper Force E3 6a * 10
42 Gourmet Shit Traverse
-
6a 9
43 Up the Grotto
-
E5 6a ** 4
44 Water Wings E4 6b ** 10
45 Ooh, Lovely! E3 5c * 15
46 Crab Party E4 6a *** 83
47 Andy Pandy 7b+ **  
48 Intimate Dancing
-
6a * 21
49 G-String 6b  
50 Robertson's Jam HVS 5a * 34
51 Spittle 'n' Spume E1 5c ** 87
52 Bare Reputation E4 6b *** 42
53 Under-Bare
-
7b *** 11
54 Under-Bare Extension
-
7b+ ** 7
55 Smile Please
-
6a+ * 25
56 Hooked Like No Fish Before Me
-
6b ** 33
  Cave Hole Area
58 Always the Sun 6b 5
59 The Green Bearded Roof 7a+ 2
60 Supergeek 7b+ *  
61 Pilot of the Future 7b  
62 Breaching the Piece 7c *** 1
63 Zen Zero 7c+ *** 1
64 The Lottie Dog Traverse 6a+ ** 1
65 Zombie Nation 7c *  
66 Air Hoodlum 7b+ **  
Climb name Grade
67 The Cult of John Craven 7b *  
68 Escape Route
-
HVS 5a 2
69 Osaki Dolphin 7c+ **  
70 Law of the Jungle 7b+ * 4
71 The Swinging Nineties 7b *** 17
72 King of the Swingers 7c+ *** 1
  Cool Vibe Area
74 C.C. Backstabbers
-
E2 5c 2
75 Different for Girls 5c * 24
76 Kisses and Lies 6a * 24
77 High Klicks 6b * 17
78 100 Reasons to be Cheerful 6c+ 1
79 Bachelor Boy and the SR 500 5c 18
80 One Cool Vibe
-
6c 2
81 This is the Life
-
6c ** 1
82 Fly the Friendly Skies 7c **  
83 Seeing is Believing 7c *  
84 Uno Más E3 6a 1
85 Tomar un Atajo E2 5b  
  Octopus Weed Area
87 Walking the Plank
-
E3 5c * 2
88 Keep Walking the Plank E3 5c ** 1
89 Staring at the Sea 7a  
90 Underwater Love 7a 1
91 Leave my Sole Alone
-
HVS 5a 8
92 The Lip Traverse XS 5b 5
93 Octopuss Weed E3 6a *** 109
94 Octo Campo 7a+ ** 4
95 Tentacle Master
-
7a+ * 9
96 Previous Top-Rope Problem
-
6a+ 14
97 Killer Loop 6c+ 1
98 Skeleton Surfers 6c+ * 2

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