Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

Snapping holds on something hard © Dr Avid

Crag features

Cave Hole is a fascinating area, tucked away on the far end of the Isle, with a labyrinth of caves and tunnels which are worth exploring for scenic value alone. However for the climber this area dispels the myth that Portland is all flat walls full of crimpy holds. Powerful routes across huge banded roofs are the order of the day here with a couple of the biggest bolted roofs in the southwest. The cliffs never attain more than 10m but all the upside down break-dancing packs a lot in and the rock quality is superb. There are also a few easier ticks plus some solos for when the weather is hot.

Approach notes

The series of caves lies below the fields 1 km up the east coast from Portland Bill. It can be spotted from the road by conspicuous jib cranes on the cliff edge. Parking is not easy for these areas since it is illegal to park on the main road. You may find a spot in Southwell but be careful not to block anyone in and be aware that tickets are regularly given here. The best parking, albeit with a longer walk-in, is in the Coastguard layby before the Pulpit Inn. From the Pulpit layby, walk about 1km back up the road to a gated track (opposite a public footpath sign). Go down here to the jib cranes which can be seen from the road. Alternatively gain the coast path from the layby and continue for 300m beyond Sector Pom Pom to reach the jib cranes.
From Southwell reach the cliff-top by the first quarry track then walk south for 500m to reach the jib cranes which mark the top of the area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Too Funky Beach Area
2 Memory Lane
-
6a * 16
3 Up, Up and Away
-
E2 6b 3
4 Once Were Warriors
-
7c ** 1
5 Cold Feet 6b * 2
6 Penny Lane 6a+ * 8
7 Too Funky for Me
-
6b+ * 9
8 The Big Boss
-
7a 1
9 Marine Boy
-
6b+ * 10
10 Marine Boy Direct
-
6c 8
11 Godzuki
-
6a+ * 13
12 Makin' Bacon
-
6a * 21
13 Trashy's Traverse
-
6b+ * 2
14 Eight Inches 7a * 6
  Desperado Cave
16 Desperado 6b * 29
17 Psychoman 6a+ * 3
18 Mike's Free Will 6c * 1
19 Lick of the Cat 6b+ **  
20 Pirates of the Black Atlantic 6a+ * 1
21 Surface Tension 6c+ **  
22 Temporary Lifestyle HS 4b ** 379
23 Underlife 7a 6
  Ixtlan Area
25 The Big Easy E1 5c ** 170
26 Babes and Bedsheets
-
E5 6a 1
27 Foxy Chicks E2 5c * 54
28 Reel 'Em In E2 6a * 45
29 Aquamarina E4 6b * 7
30 The Little Hard E3 5c * 20
31 Big Easy Arête HVS 5a * 77
32 Massive Amounts of Strength 7b  
33 Huge Reaches 7a+ 1
34 Lunge or Plunge 7a+ * 4
35 Ixtlan E2 5b ** 142
36 Karma E3 5c ** 12
37 Mad About You E3 6a * 9
38 Russian Roulette E3 6a *** 63
  Crab Party Area
40 Captain Haddock E2 5b * 18
41 Flipper Force E3 6a * 9
42 Gourmet Shit Traverse
-
6a 9
43 Up the Grotto
-
E5 6a ** 4
44 Water Wings E4 6b ** 11
45 Ooh, Lovely! E3 5c * 15
46 Crab Party E4 6a *** 87
47 Andy Pandy 7b+ **  
48 Intimate Dancing
-
6a * 19
49 G-String 6b  
50 Robertson's Jar HVS 5a * 32
51 Spittle 'n' Spume E1 5c ** 81
52 Bare Reputation E4 6b *** 34
53 Under-Bare
-
7b *** 10
54 Under-Bare Extension
-
7b+ ** 6
55 Smile Please
-
6a+ * 19
56 Hooked Like No Fish Before Me
-
6b ** 29
  Waterfall Cave Area
58 Always the Sun 6b 5
59 The Green Bearded Roof 7a+ 2
60 Supergeek 7b+ *  
61 Pilot of the Future 7b  
62 Breaching the Piece 7c *** 3
63 Zen Zero 7c+ *** 1
64 The Lottie Dog Traverse 6a+ ** 1
65 Zombie Nation 7c *  
66 Air Hoodlum 7b+ **  
67 The Cult of John Craven 7b *  
68 Escape Route
-
HVS 5a 2
69 Osaki Dolphin 7c+ **  
70 Law of the Jungle 7b+ * 3
71 The Swinging Nineties 7b *** 15
72 King of the Swingers 7c+ *** 1
  Cool Vibe Area
74 C.C. Backstabbers
-
E2 5c 2
75 Different for Girls 5c * 26
76 Kisses and Lies 6a * 26
77 High Klicks 6b * 17
78 100 Reasons to be Cheerful 6c+ 1
79 Bachelor Boy and the SR 500 5c 17
80 One Cool Vibe
-
6c 2
81 This is the Life
-
6c ** 1
82 Fly the Friendly Skies 7c **  
83 Seeing is Believing 7c *  
84 Uno Más E3 6a 1
85 Tomar un Atajo E2 5b  
  Octopus Weed Area
87 Walking the Plank
-
E3 5c * 2
88 Keep Walking the Plank E3 5c ** 1
89 Staring at the Sea 7a  
90 Underwater Love 7a 1
91 Leave my Sole Alone
-
HVS 5a 7
92 The Lip Traverse XS 5b 5
93 Octopuss Weed E3 6a *** 97
94 Octo Campo 7a+ ** 4
95 Tentacle Master
-
7a+ * 8
96 Previous Top-Rope Problem
-
6a+ 13
97 Killer Loop 6c+ 1
98 Skeleton Surfers 6c+ * 2

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