Climbs 177
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

UPDATE: regarding the information about SSSI status and whitebeams: a number of protected saplings have been marked with bits of black and yellow tape. The saplings may appear as insignificant, sawn-off little stumps, and the bits of tape may appear as little more than litter, which has led to some misinterpretation. More generally, continued access at WQ should not be taken for granted: please don't push it with parking under the crag if there's clearly no room, don't light fires, don't leave litter, etc.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The quarry lies just above the A466 between Chepstow and Tintern. Parking is available in the forestry car park 200m up the road, and is possible to walk to the crag along the roadside grass verges. Rough parking for a few cars is also possible by the road under the cliff (not ideal if your car is low-slung or its exhaust is hanging off). Take care when pulling in or out, or walking along the roadside - the road is narrow and bendy, but that doesn't seem to stop the drivers going for it!

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Re: What Name? How can this exist, even as an eliminate? The distance from the small, head height ledge on Corrective Party and the obvious left-pointing flake hold on Mr Whippy is 1.5 metres at most, and Timmy's Poorly Hand is already squeezed into that gap.
bpmclimb - 02/Jul/18
Just back from a trip here for the first time for a while; pretty disgusting to find 2 big dumps just a few feet from the bottom of routes. If you're likely to need a poo while out, take a poo bag (if it's what you do for dogs, it's what you do for human poo), or bury it, or go for a walk. Don't cover it in acres of toilet paper and a stone :( :(
Ruki - 16/Nov/17
I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 31
3 Oubliette 6a 34
4 As Above, So Below 5b 10
5 The Big 60 5a * 72
6 The Thousand Inch Stare A0 * 1
7 Pedestal Route 6a 521
8 Dewdrop VS 4b 224
9 Stranded No More 5a 461
10 Not the Arete 6a 295
11 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 23
12 The Arete 7a+ * 136
13 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 208
14 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 394
15 Dog Face 6b+ 112
16 Come to Mother 5b 195
17 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 220
18 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 25
19 Hoodoo Garden linkup 7a 1
20 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 61
21 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 3
22 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 134
23 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 10
24 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 391
25 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 86
26 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 26
27 Mark My Words E2 5b 15
28 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 255
29 THE END 6a+ 487
30 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 11
31 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 14
32 Spider Baby E4 6a * 5
33 Gone are the Days 6a * 282
34 Head Full of Hedda 6a 109
35 Shamelessly Eliminate 6b 9
36 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 591
37 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 278
38 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 79
39 Never What You Think 6a 78
40 What You Think 6c * 20
41 True Colours E1 5a 38
42 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 181
43 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 100
44 One in the Oven 6a+ 137
45 Apostrophe S (Left-hand start) 6a+ 17
46 Apostrophe S 6b+ 108
47 Poverty Stricken 5b 88
48 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 127
49 Better In than Out 6b+ * 227
50 Winging It 6b 10
51 Pine Processionary 6b 57
52 No More dream Cafe 5c 99
53 Brainless 4a 79
54 The Competence Party 5c 94
55 Red Ken 6b 75
56 Boris 6b 38
57 Better Pepper Feta (Left hand) 6a+ 20
58 Better Pepper Feta 5b 119
59 The Toaster Man 6a 119
60 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 118
61 Locally Sauced 6a 55
Climb name Grade
62 Full Fat Diet 4a 111
63 Hollow Talk 5c 211
64 Amused? 6b+ 87
65 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 284
66 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 46
67 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 7
68 Gallions Reach 5c 214
69 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 10
70 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 4
71 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 7
72 Tameness 5c * 238
73 Underachiever HVS 4c 4
74 Three Amigos 5c 84
75 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 18
76 Verticle Krak S 4a 1
77 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 5
78 No Time For Lunch 5a 80
79 Housequake 5c 130
80 Croeso y Gymru 6c+ * 11
81 The 51st State E3 6a 6
82 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 218
83 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 220
84 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 1
85 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
86 The Nylon King VS 4c 1
  Upper Lift: Right
88 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 7
89 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 147
90 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 44
91 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
92 Red Recess
-
6b+ 71
93 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
94 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 12
95 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 13
96 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 50
97 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 66
98 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 113
99 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 92
100 Sporty McSportFace 7a 42
101 Banana Crack
-
5c 302
102 Banana Skin 6a 331
103 Bananarama 5a 422
104 Simples 4c 118
105 The Banana Splits
-
4a 431
106 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 83
107 Little Slit VS 4c 105
108 Nice Thicket 5a 233
109 Cheese and Prickle 5a 63
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
111 Healing Potion 6a * 243
112 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 218
113 Stop Hitting Your Sister... (right of the seam) 6a 26
114 Bonjour Rodney 5a 218
115 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 217
116 Secretively Slabby 3a 136
117 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 17
  Lower Lift
119 Meh (?) HS 4a 8
120 Dosa f4 9
121 Pakora f5 9
122 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 6
Climb name Grade
123 Storm Doris S 4a 8
124 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
125 Chippa E1 5b 42
126 Choppa E2 5c 24
127 Food for Worms E1 5c 19
128 Pak Choi HVS 5a 3
129 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 88
130 The Charlatan HVS 5a 62
131 Little Plums VS 4c 103
132 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 11
133 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 200
134 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 98
135 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 82
136 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 727
137 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 494
138 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 646
139 Kissing Moon
-
E3 5c 64
140 Finishing Touch 6b * 579
141 Sweet FA HVS 4c 186
142 Same Old Story 6a 548
143 The Corrective Party E2 6a 100
144 What Name? f6C 9
145 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 37
146 Mr Whippy 6c+ 322
147 Diminishing Returns 6c * 297
148 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 196
149 Diagon Alley 7a * 8
150 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 139
151 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 35
152 Shadows Run Black 6c 115
153 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 403
154 Esme Doodle 4b 205
155 In the Flow f3+ 25
156 Peak Flow f5+ 22
157 Flow Pipe f5+ * 29
158 Random Stan 3c 123
159 Walk with Me 3c 228
160 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 137
161 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 280
162 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 278
163 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 16
164 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 82
165 Wot! No Eric 6a 396
166 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 88
167 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 13
168 Wall and Corner S 4b 16
169 Less is More 5c 186
170 Flowstone Wall 5c 253
171 More of the Ass 4b 171
172 Hooting 3a 60
173 Hooting (2) 4a 9
174 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 14
175 Less Of The Ass 7a 6
  Roadside Lift
177 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 4
178 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
179 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
180 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 9
181 Eeyore's Place 5c 11
182 Performance Review E2 6a 3

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer bpmclimb