UKC

Climbs 175
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

UPDATE: regarding the information about SSSI status and whitebeams: a number of protected saplings have been marked with bits of black and yellow tape. The saplings may appear as insignificant, sawn-off little stumps, and the bits of tape may appear as little more than litter, which has led to some misinterpretation. More generally, continued access at WQ should not be taken for granted: please don't push it with parking under the crag if there's clearly no room, don't light fires, don't leave litter, etc.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The quarry lies just above the A466 between Chepstow and Tintern. Parking is available in the forestry car park 200m up the road, and is possible to walk to the crag along the roadside grass verges. Rough parking for a few cars is also possible by the road under the cliff (not ideal if your car is low-slung or its exhaust is hanging off). Take care when pulling in or out, or walking along the roadside - the road is narrow and bendy, but that doesn't seem to stop the drivers going for it!

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Re: What Name? How can this exist, even as an eliminate? The distance from the small, head height ledge on Corrective Party and the obvious left-pointing flake hold on Mr Whippy is 1.5 metres at most, and Timmy's Poorly Hand is already squeezed into that gap.
bpmclimb - 02/Jul/18
Just back from a trip here for the first time for a while; pretty disgusting to find 2 big dumps just a few feet from the bottom of routes. If you're likely to need a poo while out, take a poo bag (if it's what you do for dogs, it's what you do for human poo), or bury it, or go for a walk. Don't cover it in acres of toilet paper and a stone :( :(
Ruki - 16/Nov/17
I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 26
3 Oubliette 6a 30
4 As Above, So Below 5b 9
5 The Big 60 5a * 71
6 Pedestal Route 6a 502
7 Dewdrop VS 4b 217
8 Stranded No More 5a 445
9 Not the Arete 6a 290
10 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 19
11 The Arete 7a+ * 132
12 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 193
13 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 353
14 Dog Face 6b+ 99
15 Come to Mother 5b 176
16 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 196
17 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 22
18 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 49
19 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 3
20 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 128
21 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 10
22 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 367
23 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 74
24 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 25
25 Mark My Words E2 5b 15
26 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 242
27 THE END 6a+ 467
28 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 8
29 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 13
30 Spider Baby E4 6a * 5
31 Gone are the Days 6a * 256
32 Head Full of Hedda 6a 92
33 Shamelessly Eliminate 6b 9
34 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 561
35 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 255
36 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 72
37 Never What You Think 6a 77
38 What You Think 6c * 19
39 True Colours HVS 4c 37
40 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 164
41 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 95
42 One in the Oven 6a+ 128
43 Apostrophe S (Left-hand start) 6a+ 5
44 Apostrophe S 6b+ 103
45 Poverty Stricken 5b 77
46 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 118
47 Better In than Out 6b+ * 218
48 Winging It 6b 10
49 Pine Processionary 6b 51
50 No More dream Cafe 5c 82
51 Brainless 4a 69
52 The Competence Party 5c 83
53 Red Ken 6b 70
54 Boris 6b 38
55 Better Pepper Feta (Left hand) 6a+ 18
56 Better Pepper Feta 5b 110
57 The Toaster Man 6a 108
58 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 111
59 Locally Sauced 6a 41
60 Full Fat Diet 4a 100
Climb name Grade
61 Hollow Talk 5c 198
62 Amused? 6b+ 79
63 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 259
64 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 46
65 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 7
66 Gallions Reach 5c 199
67 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 9
68 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 2
69 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 6
70 Tameness 5c * 221
71 Underachiever HVS 4c 4
72 Three Amigos 5c 75
73 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 17
74 Verticle Krak S 4a 1
75 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 5
76 No Time For Lunch 5a 75
77 Housequake 5c 120
78 Croeso y Gymru 6c+ * 10
79 The 51st State E3 6a 6
80 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 197
81 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 200
82 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 1
83 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
84 The Nylon King VS 4c 1
  Upper Lift: Right
86 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 7
87 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 144
88 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 35
89 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
90 Red Recess
-
6b+ 71
91 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
92 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 10
93 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 13
94 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 45
95 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 58
96 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 110
97 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 86
98 Sporty McSportFace 7a 32
99 Banana Crack
-
5c 293
100 Banana Skin 6a 317
101 Bananarama 5a 420
102 Simples 4c 112
103 The Banana Splits
-
4a 419
104 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 79
105 Little Slit VS 4c 103
106 Nice Thicket 5a 228
107 Cheese and Prickle 5a 61
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
109 Healing Potion 6a * 229
110 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 207
111 Stop Hitting Your Sister... (right of the seam) 6a 25
112 Bonjour Rodney 5a 207
113 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 208
114 Secretively Slabby 3a 132
115 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 17
  Lower Lift
117 Meh (?) HS 4a 8
118 Dosa f4 9
119 Pakora f5 9
120 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 6
Climb name Grade
121 Storm Doris S 4a 8
122 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
123 Chippa E1 5b 42
124 Choppa E2 5c 24
125 Food for Worms E1 5c 19
126 Pak Choi HVS 5a 3
127 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 86
128 The Charlatan HVS 5a 61
129 Little Plums VS 4c 102
130 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 11
131 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 199
132 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 96
133 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 71
134 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 705
135 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 458
136 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 631
137 Kissing Moon
-
E3 5c 64
138 Finishing Touch 6b * 566
139 Sweet FA HVS 4c 182
140 Same Old Story 6a 537
141 The Corrective Party E2 6a 96
142 What Name? f6C 9
143 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 29
144 Mr Whippy 6c+ 306
145 Diminishing Returns 6c * 283
146 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 187
147 Diagon Alley 7a * 7
148 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 139
149 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 35
150 Shadows Run Black 6c 101
151 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 395
152 Esme Doodle 4b 195
153 In the Flow f3+ 23
154 Peak Flow f5+ 20
155 Flow Pipe f5+ * 28
156 Random Stan 3c 119
157 Walk with Me 3c 222
158 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 122
159 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 262
160 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 263
161 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 16
162 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 82
163 Wot! No Eric 6a 376
164 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 85
165 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 12
166 Wall and Corner S 4b 15
167 Less is More 5c 174
168 Flowstone Wall 5c 246
169 More of the Ass 4b 154
170 Hooting 3a 53
171 Hooting (2) 4a 5
172 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 14
173 Less Of The Ass 7a 6
  Roadside Lift
175 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 4
176 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
177 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
178 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 9
179 Eeyore's Place 5c 11
180 Performance Review E2 6a 3

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