Climbs 182
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

UPDATE: regarding the information about SSSI status and whitebeams: a number of protected saplings have been marked with bits of black and yellow tape. The saplings may appear as insignificant, sawn-off little stumps, and the bits of tape may appear as little more than litter, which has led to some misinterpretation. More generally, continued access at WQ should not be taken for granted: please don't push it with parking under the crag if there's clearly no room, don't light fires, don't leave litter, etc.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The A466 is currently closed (7th May 2019) between Tintern and St Arvans, so direct acces to the crag from this road is not possible from the Tintern direction (and presumably also from the Chepstow direction). .
Work is expected to complete late June 2019. Further works and road closures are expected on other sections in the immediate area in due course.
https://www.monmouthshire.gov.uk/2019/05/a466-closure-st-arvans-to-tintern/

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Re: What Name? How can this exist, even as an eliminate? The distance from the small, head height ledge on Corrective Party and the obvious left-pointing flake hold on Mr Whippy is 1.5 metres at most, and Timmy's Poorly Hand is already squeezed into that gap.
bpmclimb - 02/Jul/18
Just back from a trip here for the first time for a while; pretty disgusting to find 2 big dumps just a few feet from the bottom of routes. If you're likely to need a poo while out, take a poo bag (if it's what you do for dogs, it's what you do for human poo), or bury it, or go for a walk. Don't cover it in acres of toilet paper and a stone :( :(
Ruki - 16/Nov/17
I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 48
3 Oubliette 6a 43
4 As Above, So Below 5b 14
5 The Big 60 5a * 85
6 The Thousand Inch Stare A0 * 4
7 Pedestal Route 6a 561
8 Dewdrop VS 4b 230
9 Stranded No More 5a 513
10 Not the Arete 6a 316
11 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 26
12 The Arete 7a+ * 148
13 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 227
14 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 476
15 Dog Face 6b+ 136
16 Come to Mother 5b 240
17 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 279
18 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 36
19 Hoodoo Garden linkup 7a 3
20 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 82
21 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 3
22 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 147
23 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 11
24 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 449
25 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 102
26 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 30
27 Mark My Words E2 5b 16
28 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 293
29 THE END 6a+ 548
30 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 11
31 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 16
32 Spider Baby E4 6a * 5
33 Gone are the Days 6a * 335
34 Head Full of Hedda 6a 137
35 Shamelessly Eliminate 6b 17
36 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 667
37 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 323
38 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 84
39 Never What You Think 6a 84
40 What You Think 6c * 25
41 True Colours E1 5a 41
42 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 221
43 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 115
44 One in the Oven 6a+ 179
45 Apostrophe S (Left-hand start) 6a+ 45
46 Apostrophe S 6b+ 116
47 Poverty Stricken 5b 116
48 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 138
49 Better In than Out 6b+ * 244
50 Winging It 6b 14
51 Pine Processionary 6b 69
52 No More dream Cafe 5c 138
53 Brainless 4a 101
54 The Competence Party 5c 117
55 Red Ken 6b 80
56 Boris 6b 40
57 Better Pepper Feta (Left hand) 6a+ 27
58 Better Pepper Feta 5b 147
59 The Toaster Man 6a 148
60 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 135
61 Locally Sauced 6a 77
62 Full Fat Diet 4a 147
Climb name Grade
63 Hollow Talk 5c 242
64 Amused? 6b+ 101
65 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 326
66 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 49
67 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 9
68 Gallions Reach 5c 249
69 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 10
70 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 4
71 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 8
72 Tameness 5c * 285
73 Underachiever HVS 4c 5
74 Three Amigos 5c 107
75 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 20
76 Verticle Krak S 4a 1
77 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 5
78 No Time For Lunch 5a 107
79 Housequake 5c 152
80 Croeso y Gymru 6c+ * 17
81 The 51st State E3 6a 7
82 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 240
83 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 259
84 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 1
85 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
86 The Nylon King VS 4c 1
  Upper Lift: Right
88 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 7
89 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 156
90 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 59
91 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
92 Red Recess
-
6b+ 73
93 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
94 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 13
95 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 16
96 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 51
97 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 81
98 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 140
99 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 113
100 Sporty McSportFace 7a 56
101 Banana Crack
-
5c 322
102 Banana Skin 6a 359
103 Bananarama 5a 444
104 Simples 4c 144
105 The Banana Splits
-
4a 470
106 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 109
107 Little Slit VS 4c 107
108 Nice Thicket 5a 260
109 Cheese and Prickle 5a 82
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
111 Healing Potion 6a * 284
112 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 248
113 Stop Hitting Your Sister... (right of the seam) 6a 41
114 Bonjour Rodney 5a 254
115 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 247
116 Secretively Slabby 3a 167
117 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 17
  Lower Lift
119 Meh (?) HS 4a 8
120 Dosa f4 9
121 Pakora f5 9
122 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 6
123 Storm Doris S 4a 8
124 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
Climb name Grade
125 Chippa E1 5b 46
126 Choppa E2 5c 26
127 Food for Worms E1 5c 20
128 Pak Choi HVS 5a 5
129 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 89
130 The Charlatan HVS 5a 65
131 Little Plums VS 4c 104
132 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 11
133 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 207
134 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 100
135 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 91
136 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 778
137 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 589
138 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 675
139 Kissing Moon
-
E3 5c 67
140 Finishing Touch 6b * 623
141 Sweet FA HVS 4c 191
142 Same Old Story 6a 593
143 The Corrective Party E2 6a 105
144 What Name? f6C 11
145 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 42
146 Mr Whippy 6c+ 336
147 Diminishing Returns 6c * 316
148 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 208
149 Diagon Alley 7a * 10
150 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 144
151 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 35
152 Shadows Run Black 6c 141
153 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 432
154 Esme Doodle 4b 241
155 In the Flow f3+ 27
156 Out of Flow f5+ 4
157 Peak Flow f5+ 26
158 Gastonomical V3 2
159 Flow Pipe f5+ * 32
160 Tom's Dyno f6B+ 2
161 Flo Rida f7A+ * 2
162 Random Stan 3c 149
163 Walk with Me 3c 273
164 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 187
165 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 335
166 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 334
167 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 17
168 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 83
169 Wot! No Eric 6a 428
170 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 89
171 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 13
172 Wall and Corner S 4b 16
173 Less is More 5c 211
174 Flowstone Wall 5c 269
175 More of the Ass 4b 203
176 Hooting 3a 70
177 Hooting (2) 4a 16
178 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 15
179 Less Of The Ass 7a 8
  Roadside Lift
181 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 4
182 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
183 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
184 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 11
185 Eeyore's Place 5c 13
186 Performance Review E2 6a 3

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