Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 185
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

UPDATE: regarding the information about SSSI status and whitebeams: a number of protected saplings have been marked with bits of black and yellow tape. The saplings may appear as insignificant, sawn-off little stumps, and the bits of tape may appear as little more than litter, which has led to some misinterpretation. More generally, continued access at WQ should not be taken for granted: please don't push it with parking under the crag if there's clearly no room, don't light fires, don't leave litter, etc.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The A466 is now reopened after a closure (May 2019) between Tintern and St Arvans. Further works and road closures are expected on other sections in the immediate area in due course.

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Re: What Name? How can this exist, even as an eliminate? The distance from the small, head height ledge on Corrective Party and the obvious left-pointing flake hold on Mr Whippy is 1.5 metres at most, and Timmy's Poorly Hand is already squeezed into that gap.
bpmclimb - 02/Jul/18
Just back from a trip here for the first time for a while; pretty disgusting to find 2 big dumps just a few feet from the bottom of routes. If you're likely to need a poo while out, take a poo bag (if it's what you do for dogs, it's what you do for human poo), or bury it, or go for a walk. Don't cover it in acres of toilet paper and a stone :( :(
Ruki - 16/Nov/17
I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 56
3 Oubliette 6a 48
4 As Above, So Below 5b 17
5 The Big 60 5a * 97
6 The Thousand Inch Stare A0 * 4
7 Pedestal Route 6a 619
8 Dewdrop VS 4b 250
9 Stranded No More 5a 568
10 Not the Arete 6a 338
11 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 27
12 The Arete 7a+ * 166
13 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 254
14 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 594
15 Dog Face 6b+ 187
16 Come to Mother 5b 270
17 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 341
18 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 40
19 Hoodoo Garden linkup 7a 4
20 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 102
21 Come to Granny 4a * 1
22 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 3
23 House At The End Of The Rainbow 7a ** 7
24 House Of Magic 7b * 14
25 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 152
26 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 11
27 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 516
28 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 115
29 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 34
30 Mark My Words E2 5b 16
31 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 342
32 THE END 6a+ 622
33 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 19
34 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 16
35 Spider Baby E4 6a * 5
36 Gone are the Days 6a * 394
37 Head Full of Hedda 6a 168
38 Shamelessly Eliminate 6b 20
39 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 745
40 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 371
41 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 94
42 Never What You Think 6a 89
43 What You Think 6c * 27
44 True Colours E1 5a 42
45 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 269
46 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 130
47 One in the Oven 6a+ 229
48 Apostrophe S (Left-hand start) 6a+ 80
49 Apostrophe S 6b+ 124
50 Poverty Stricken 5b 140
51 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 162
52 Better In than Out 6b+ * 272
53 Winging It 6b 15
54 Pine Processionary 6b 71
55 No More dream Cafe 5c 180
56 Brainless 4a 117
57 The Competence Party 5c 129
58 Red Ken 6b 86
59 Boris 6b 41
60 Better Pepper Feta (Left hand) 6a+ 36
61 Better Pepper Feta 5b 174
62 The Toaster Man 6a 183
63 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 165
64 Locally Sauced 6a 127
Climb name Grade
65 Full Fat Diet 4a 167
66 Hollow Talk 5c 271
67 Amused? 6b+ 113
68 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 382
69 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 60
70 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 10
71 Gallions Reach 5c 290
72 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 10
73 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 5
74 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 8
75 Tameness 5c * 323
76 Underachiever HVS 4c 5
77 Three Amigos 5c 114
78 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 20
79 Verticle Krak S 4a 1
80 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 5
81 No Time For Lunch 5a 120
82 Housequake 5c 176
83 Croeso y Gymru 6c+ * 21
84 The 51st State E3 6a 7
85 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 301
86 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 298
87 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 2
88 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
89 The Nylon King VS 4c 1
  Upper Lift: Right
91 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 7
92 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 159
93 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 75
94 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
95 Red Recess
-
6b+ 73
96 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
97 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 13
98 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 18
99 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 54
100 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 88
101 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 171
102 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 130
103 Sporty McSportFace 7a 67
104 Banana Crack
-
5c 345
105 Banana Skin 6a 394
106 Bananarama 5a 471
107 Simples 4c 170
108 The Banana Splits
-
4a 520
109 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 128
110 Little Slit VS 4c 113
111 Nice Thicket 5a 283
112 Cheese and Prickle 5a 98
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
114 Healing Potion 6a * 329
115 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 289
116 Stop Hitting Your Sister... (right of the seam) 6a 53
117 Bonjour Rodney 5a 291
118 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 289
119 Secretively Slabby 3a 203
120 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 17
  Lower Lift
122 Meh (?) HS 4a 9
123 Dosa f4 9
124 Pakora f5 9
125 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 6
126 Storm Doris S 4a 8
127 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
128 Chippa E1 5b 47
Climb name Grade
129 Choppa E2 5c 26
130 Food for Worms E1 5c 21
131 Pak Choi HVS 5a 5
132 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 89
133 The Charlatan HVS 5a 66
134 Little Plums VS 4c 106
135 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 11
136 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 211
137 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 101
138 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 104
139 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 826
140 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 678
141 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 703
142 Kissing Moon E3 5c 68
143 Finishing Touch 6b * 657
144 Sweet FA HVS 4c 194
145 Same Old Story 6a 633
146 The Corrective Party E2 6a 108
147 What Name? f6C 11
148 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 43
149 Mr Whippy 6c+ 357
150 Diminishing Returns 6c * 327
151 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 224
152 Diagon Alley 7a * 11
153 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 146
154 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 35
155 Shadows Run Black 6c 156
156 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 453
157 Esme Doodle 4b 261
158 In the Flow f3+ 29
159 Out of Flow f5+ 7
160 Peak Flow f5+ 28
161 Gastonomical V3 3
162 Flow Pipe f5+ * 34
163 Tom's Dyno f6B+ 3
164 Flo Rida f7A+ * 3
165 Random Stan 3c 172
166 Walk with Me 3c 313
167 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 227
168 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 377
169 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 384
170 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 17
171 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 83
172 Wot! No Eric 6a 447
173 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 89
174 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 14
175 Wall and Corner S 4b 16
176 Less is More 5c 239
177 Flowstone Wall 5c 281
178 More of the Ass 4b 233
179 Hooting 3a 79
180 Hooting (2) 4a 21
181 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 16
182 Lower lift traverse there and back 7b+ ** 1
183 Less Of The Ass 7a 8
  Roadside Lift
185 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 4
186 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
187 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
188 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 11
189 Eeyore's Place 5c 13
190 Performance Review E2 6a 3

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