UKC

Climbs 174
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The quarry lies just above the A466 between Chepstow and Tintern. Parking is available in the forestry car park 200m up the road, and is possible to walk to the crag along the roadside grass verges. Rough parking for a few cars is also possible by the road under the cliff (not ideal if your car is low-slung or its exhaust is hanging off). Take care when pulling in or out, or walking along the roadside - the road is narrow and bendy, but that doesn't seem to stop the drivers going for it!

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Re: What Name? How can this exist, even as an eliminate? The distance from the small, head height ledge on Corrective Party and the obvious left-pointing flake hold on Mr Whippy is 1.5 metres at most, and Timmy's Poorly Hand is already squeezed into that gap.
bpmclimb - 02/Jul/18
Just back from a trip here for the first time for a while; pretty disgusting to find 2 big dumps just a few feet from the bottom of routes. If you're likely to need a poo while out, take a poo bag (if it's what you do for dogs, it's what you do for human poo), or bury it, or go for a walk. Don't cover it in acres of toilet paper and a stone :( :(
Ruki - 16/Nov/17
I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 25
3 Oubliette 6a 26
4 As Above, So Below 5b 8
5 The Big 60 5a * 70
6 Pedestal Route 6a 482
7 Dewdrop VS 4b 214
8 Stranded No More 5a 425
9 Not the Arete 6a 281
10 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 18
11 The Arete 7a+ * 122
12 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 179
13 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 309
14 Dog Face 6b+ 87
15 Come to Mother 5b 157
16 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 165
17 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 20
18 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 30
19 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 3
20 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 126
21 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 8
22 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 337
23 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 65
24 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 24
25 Mark My Words E2 5b 13
26 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 218
27 THE END 6a+ 444
28 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 7
29 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 13
30 Spider Baby E4 6a * 5
31 Gone are the Days 6a * 238
32 Head Full of Hedda 6a 87
33 Shamelessly Eliminate 6b 7
34 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 538
35 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 236
36 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 64
37 Never What You Think 6a 75
38 What You Think 6c * 19
39 True Colours HVS 4c 34
40 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 155
41 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 86
42 One in the Oven 6a+ 109
43 Apostrophe S 6b+ 93
44 Poverty Stricken 5b 65
45 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 110
46 Better In than Out 6b+ * 213
47 Winging It 6b 9
48 Pine Processionary 6b 47
49 No More dream Cafe 5c 66
50 Brainless 4a 58
51 The Competence Party 5c 73
52 Red Ken 6b 69
53 Boris 6b 37
54 Better Pepper Feta (Left hand) 6a+ 16
55 Better Pepper Feta 5b 96
56 The Toaster Man 6a 95
57 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 98
58 Locally Sauced 6a 38
59 Full Fat Diet 4a 82
60 Hollow Talk 5c 181
Climb name Grade
61 Amused? 6b+ 75
62 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 225
63 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 46
64 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 7
65 Gallions Reach 5c 186
66 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 9
67 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 2
68 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 6
69 Tameness 5c * 194
70 Underachiever HVS 4c 3
71 Three Amigos 5c 61
72 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 17
73 Verticle Krak S 4a 1
74 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 5
75 No Time For Lunch 5a 70
76 Housequake 5c 103
77 Croeso y Gymru 6c+ * 10
78 The 51st State E3 6a 6
79 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 175
80 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 183
81 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 1
82 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
83 The Nylon King VS 4c 1
  Upper Lift: Right
85 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 7
86 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 140
87 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 25
88 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
89 Red Recess
-
6b+ 70
90 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
91 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 10
92 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 13
93 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 45
94 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 54
95 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 104
96 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 78
97 Sporty McSportFace 7a 24
98 Banana Crack
-
5c 284
99 Banana Skin 6a 298
100 Bananarama 5a 410
101 Simples 4c 98
102 The Banana Splits
-
4a 402
103 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 69
104 Little Slit VS 4c 102
105 Nice Thicket 5a 214
106 Cheese and Prickle 5a 56
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
108 Healing Potion 6a * 205
109 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 183
110 Stop Hitting Your Sister... (right of the seam) 6a 15
111 Bonjour Rodney 5a 190
112 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 183
113 Secretively Slabby 3a 112
114 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 17
  Lower Lift
116 Meh (?) HS 4a 8
117 Dosa f4 9
118 Pakora f5 9
119 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 6
120 Storm Doris S 4a 7
Climb name Grade
121 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
122 Chippa E1 5b 42
123 Choppa E2 5c 24
124 Food for Worms E1 5c 19
125 Pak Choi HVS 5a 3
126 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 86
127 The Charlatan HVS 5a 60
128 Little Plums VS 4c 102
129 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 11
130 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 199
131 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 95
132 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 63
133 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 690
134 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 417
135 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 619
136 Kissing Moon
-
E3 5c 63
137 Finishing Touch 6b * 549
138 Sweet FA HVS 4c 178
139 Same Old Story 6a 526
140 The Corrective Party E2 6a 93
141 What Name? f6C 8
142 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 26
143 Mr Whippy 6c+ 294
144 Diminishing Returns 6c * 276
145 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 181
146 Diagon Alley 7a * 7
147 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 138
148 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 35
149 Shadows Run Black 6c 83
150 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 375
151 Esme Doodle 4b 177
152 In the Flow f3+ 23
153 Peak Flow f5+ 20
154 Flow Pipe f5+ * 28
155 Random Stan 3c 109
156 Walk with Me 3c 197
157 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 110
158 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 242
159 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 242
160 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 16
161 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 81
162 Wot! No Eric 6a 357
163 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 84
164 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 12
165 Wall and Corner S 4b 15
166 Less is More 5c 144
167 Flowstone Wall 5c 226
168 More of the Ass 4b 132
169 Hooting 3a 43
170 Hooting (2) 4a 3
171 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 14
172 Less Of The Ass 7a 6
  Roadside Lift
174 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 4
175 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
176 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
177 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 9
178 Eeyore's Place 5c 11
179 Performance Review E2 6a 3

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer bpmclimb