UKC

Climbs 172
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The quarry lies just above the A466 between Chepstow and Tintern. Parking is available in the forestry car park 200m up the road, and is possible to walk to the crag along the roadside grass verges. Rough parking for a few cars is also possible by the road under the cliff (not ideal if your car is low-slung or its exhaust is hanging off). Take care when pulling in or out, or walking along the roadside - the road is narrow and bendy, but that doesn't seem to stop the drivers going for it!

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Just back from a trip here for the first time for a while; pretty disgusting to find 2 big dumps just a few feet from the bottom of routes. If you're likely to need a poo while out, take a poo bag (if it's what you do for dogs, it's what you do for human poo), or bury it, or go for a walk. Don't cover it in acres of toilet paper and a stone :( :(
Ruki - 16/Nov/17
I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 17
3 Oubliette 6a 15
4 As Above, So Below 5b 3
5 The Big 60 5a * 56
6 Pedestal Route 6a 454
7 Dewdrop VS 4b 206
8 Stranded No More 5a 383
9 Not the Arete 6a 264
10 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 18
11 The Arete 7a+ * 114
12 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 159
13 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 238
14 Dog Face 6b+ 71
15 Come to Mother 5b 120
16 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 122
17 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 18
18 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 20
19 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 2
20 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 115
21 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 8
22 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 281
23 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 46
24 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 19
25 Mark My Words E2 5b 11
26 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 193
27 THE END 6a+ 405
28 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 4
29 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 13
30 Spider Baby E4 6a * 3
31 Gone are the Days 6a * 194
32 Head Full of Hedda 6a 69
33 Shamelessly Eliminate 6b+ 2
34 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 475
35 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 189
36 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 57
37 Never What You Think 6a 66
38 What You Think 6c * 18
39 True Colours HVS 4c 34
40 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 141
41 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 80
42 One in the Oven 6a+ 68
43 Apostrophe S 6b+ 76
44 Poverty Stricken 5b 45
45 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 98
46 Better In than Out 6b+ * 193
47 Winging It 6b 3
48 Pine Processionary 6b 27
49 No More dream Cafe 5c 32
50 Brainless 4a 34
51 The Competence Party 5c 48
52 Red Ken 6b 62
53 Boris 6b 34
54 Better Pepper Feta (Left hand) 6a+ 3
55 Better Pepper Feta 5b 64
56 The Toaster Man 6a 66
57 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 68
58 Locally Sauced 6a 28
59 Full Fat Diet 4a 54
Climb name Grade
60 Hollow Talk 5c 138
61 Amused? 6b+ 63
62 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 172
63 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 44
64 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 6
65 Gallions Reach 5c 136
66 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 9
67 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 2
68 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 6
69 Tameness 5c * 151
70 Underachiever HVS 4c 2
71 Three Amigos 5c 47
72 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 17
73 Verticle Krak S 4a 1
74 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 5
75 No Time For Lunch 5a 64
76 Housequake 5c 64
77 Croeso y Gymru 6c+ * 5
78 The 51st State E3 6a 6
79 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 130
80 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 125
81 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 1
82 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
83 The Nylon King VS 4c  
  Upper Lift: Right
85 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 6
86 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 132
87 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 15
88 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
89 Red Recess
-
6b+ 67
90 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
91 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 10
92 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 10
93 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 39
94 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 36
95 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 75
96 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 58
97 Sporty McSportFace 7a 15
98 Banana Crack
-
5c 261
99 Banana Skin 6a 267
100 Bananarama 5a 379
101 Simples 4c 65
102 The Banana Splits
-
4a 354
103 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 40
104 Little Slit VS 4c 95
105 Nice Thicket 5a 180
106 Cheese and Prickle 5a 37
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
108 Healing Potion 6a * 153
109 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 137
110 Bonjour Rodney 5a 140
111 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 132
112 Secretively Slabby 3a 71
113 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 13
  Lower Lift
115 Meh (?) HS 4a 8
116 Dosa f4 8
117 Pakora f5 7
118 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 5
Climb name Grade
119 Storm Doris S 4a 6
120 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
121 Chippa E1 5b 41
122 Choppa E2 5c 23
123 Food for Worms E1 5c 17
124 Pak Choi HVS 5a 3
125 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 84
126 The Charlatan HVS 5a 59
127 Little Plums VS 4c 98
128 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 11
129 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 190
130 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 89
131 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 55
132 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 655
133 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 323
134 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 587
135 Kissing Moon
-
E3 5c 61
136 Finishing Touch 6b * 501
137 Sweet FA HVS 4c 173
138 Same Old Story 6a 474
139 The Corrective Party E2 6a 89
140 What Name? f6C 8
141 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 24
142 Mr Whippy 6c+ 279
143 Diminishing Returns 6c * 260
144 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 168
145 Diagon Alley 7a * 7
146 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 137
147 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 34
148 Shadows Run Black 6c 68
149 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 342
150 Esme Doodle 4b 138
151 In the Flow f3+ 21
152 Peak Flow f5+ 17
153 Flow Pipe f5+ * 24
154 Random Stan 3c 74
155 Walk with Me 3c 153
156 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 70
157 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 186
158 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 189
159 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 13
160 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 72
161 Wot! No Eric 6a 308
162 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 79
163 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 12
164 Wall and Corner S 4b 13
165 Less is More 5c 108
166 Flowstone Wall 5c 205
167 More of the Ass 4b 100
168 Hooting 3a 30
169 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 14
170 Less Of The Ass 7a 5
  Roadside Lift
172 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 4
173 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
174 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
175 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 9
176 Eeyore's Place 5c 11
177 Performance Review E2 6a 3

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