UKC

Climbs 173
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The quarry lies just above the A466 between Chepstow and Tintern. Parking is available in the forestry car park 200m up the road, and is possible to walk to the crag along the roadside grass verges. Rough parking for a few cars is also possible by the road under the cliff (not ideal if your car is low-slung or its exhaust is hanging off). Take care when pulling in or out, or walking along the roadside - the road is narrow and bendy, but that doesn't seem to stop the drivers going for it!

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Just back from a trip here for the first time for a while; pretty disgusting to find 2 big dumps just a few feet from the bottom of routes. If you're likely to need a poo while out, take a poo bag (if it's what you do for dogs, it's what you do for human poo), or bury it, or go for a walk. Don't cover it in acres of toilet paper and a stone :( :(
Ruki - 16/Nov/17
I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 23
3 Oubliette 6a 20
4 As Above, So Below 5b 5
5 The Big 60 5a * 61
6 Pedestal Route 6a 462
7 Dewdrop VS 4b 208
8 Stranded No More 5a 397
9 Not the Arete 6a 267
10 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 18
11 The Arete 7a+ * 116
12 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 165
13 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 267
14 Dog Face 6b+ 81
15 Come to Mother 5b 135
16 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 141
17 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 20
18 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 22
19 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 2
20 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 120
21 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 8
22 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 309
23 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 50
24 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 24
25 Mark My Words E2 5b 12
26 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 204
27 THE END 6a+ 423
28 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 7
29 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 13
30 Spider Baby E4 6a * 3
31 Gone are the Days 6a * 209
32 Head Full of Hedda 6a 77
33 Shamelessly Eliminate 6b 5
34 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 500
35 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 211
36 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 62
37 Never What You Think 6a 72
38 What You Think 6c * 19
39 True Colours HVS 4c 34
40 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 150
41 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 84
42 One in the Oven 6a+ 85
43 Apostrophe S 6b+ 83
44 Poverty Stricken 5b 54
45 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 105
46 Better In than Out 6b+ * 204
47 Winging It 6b 3
48 Pine Processionary 6b 34
49 No More dream Cafe 5c 48
50 Brainless 4a 49
51 The Competence Party 5c 55
52 Red Ken 6b 63
53 Boris 6b 34
54 Better Pepper Feta (Left hand) 6a+ 9
55 Better Pepper Feta 5b 79
56 The Toaster Man 6a 81
57 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 80
58 Locally Sauced 6a 33
59 Full Fat Diet 4a 71
60 Hollow Talk 5c 157
Climb name Grade
61 Amused? 6b+ 63
62 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 190
63 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 45
64 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 6
65 Gallions Reach 5c 157
66 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 9
67 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 2
68 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 6
69 Tameness 5c * 170
70 Underachiever HVS 4c 2
71 Three Amigos 5c 52
72 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 17
73 Verticle Krak S 4a 1
74 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 5
75 No Time For Lunch 5a 65
76 Housequake 5c 80
77 Croeso y Gymru 6c+ * 7
78 The 51st State E3 6a 6
79 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 148
80 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 145
81 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 1
82 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
83 The Nylon King VS 4c  
  Upper Lift: Right
85 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 6
86 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 132
87 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 18
88 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
89 Red Recess
-
6b+ 68
90 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
91 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 10
92 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 11
93 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 43
94 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 41
95 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 85
96 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 64
97 Sporty McSportFace 7a 20
98 Banana Crack
-
5c 267
99 Banana Skin 6a 274
100 Bananarama 5a 395
101 Simples 4c 82
102 The Banana Splits
-
4a 384
103 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 53
104 Little Slit VS 4c 100
105 Nice Thicket 5a 198
106 Cheese and Prickle 5a 50
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
108 Healing Potion 6a * 177
109 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 168
110 Stop Hitting Your Sister... (right of the seam) 6a 10
111 Bonjour Rodney 5a 169
112 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 159
113 Secretively Slabby 3a 92
114 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 16
  Lower Lift
116 Meh (?) HS 4a 8
117 Dosa f4 9
118 Pakora f5 9
119 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 6
120 Storm Doris S 4a 7
Climb name Grade
121 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
122 Chippa E1 5b 42
123 Choppa E2 5c 24
124 Food for Worms E1 5c 19
125 Pak Choi HVS 5a 3
126 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 85
127 The Charlatan HVS 5a 59
128 Little Plums VS 4c 102
129 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 11
130 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 196
131 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 92
132 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 58
133 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 673
134 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 357
135 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 601
136 Kissing Moon
-
E3 5c 62
137 Finishing Touch 6b * 521
138 Sweet FA HVS 4c 176
139 Same Old Story 6a 490
140 The Corrective Party E2 6a 91
141 What Name? f6C 8
142 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 26
143 Mr Whippy 6c+ 288
144 Diminishing Returns 6c * 268
145 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 177
146 Diagon Alley 7a * 7
147 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 138
148 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 35
149 Shadows Run Black 6c 79
150 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 354
151 Esme Doodle 4b 150
152 In the Flow f3+ 23
153 Peak Flow f5+ 20
154 Flow Pipe f5+ * 27
155 Random Stan 3c 87
156 Walk with Me 3c 170
157 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 86
158 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 211
159 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 206
160 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 14
161 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 75
162 Wot! No Eric 6a 323
163 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 80
164 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 12
165 Wall and Corner S 4b 15
166 Less is More 5c 122
167 Flowstone Wall 5c 216
168 More of the Ass 4b 114
169 Hooting 3a 40
170 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 14
171 Less Of The Ass 7a 6
  Roadside Lift
173 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 4
174 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
175 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
176 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 9
177 Eeyore's Place 5c 11
178 Performance Review E2 6a 3

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