Altitude 153m a.s.l
Stretching through the crux © DrGav
Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.
UPDATE: regarding the information about SSSI status and whitebeams: a number of protected saplings have been marked with bits of black and yellow tape. The saplings may appear as insignificant, sawn-off little stumps, and the bits of tape may appear as little more than litter, which has led to some misinterpretation. More generally, continued access at WQ should not be taken for granted: please don't push it with parking under the crag if there's clearly no room, don't light fires, don't leave litter, etc.
The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.
The A466 is currently closed (7th May 2019) between Tintern and St Arvans, so direct acces to the crag from this road is not possible from the Tintern direction (and presumably also from the Chepstow direction). .
Work is expected to complete late June 2019. Further works and road closures are expected on other sections in the immediate area in due course.
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through firstname.lastname@example.org.
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