Climbs 168
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, nearly 50 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The quarry lies just above the A466 between Chepstow and Tintern. Parking is available in the forestry car park 200m up the road, and is possible to walk to the crag along the roadside grass verges. Rough parking for a few cars is also possible by the road under the cliff (not ideal if your car is low-slung or its exhaust is hanging off). Take care when pulling in or out, or walking along the roadside - the road is narrow and bendy, but that doesn't seem to stop the drivers going for it!

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Guidebooks

I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 16
3 Oubliette 6a 14
4 As Above, So Below 5b 2
5 The Big 60 5a * 58
6 Pedestal Route 6a 440
7 Dewdrop VS 4b 199
8 Stranded No More 5a 367
9 Not the Arete 6a 261
10 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 18
11 The Arete 7a+ * 120
12 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 156
13 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 195
14 Dog Face 6b+ 59
15 Come to Mother 5b 102
16 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 93
17 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 18
18 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 11
19 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 2
20 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 122
21 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 6
22 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 265
23 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 36
24 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 18
25 Mark My Words E2 5b 10
26 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 174
27 THE END 6a+ 379
28 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 4
29 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 12
30 Spider Baby E4 6a * 2
31 Gone are the Days 6a * 167
32 Head Full of Hedda 6a 53
33 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 446
34 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 159
35 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 52
36 Never What You Think 6a 65
37 What You Think 6c * 19
38 True Colours HVS 4c 37
39 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 146
40 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 80
41 One in the Oven 6a+ 50
42 Apostrophe S 6b+ 66
43 Poverty Stricken 5b 36
44 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 94
45 Better In than Out 6b+ * 194
46 Winging It 6b 2
47 Pine Processionary 6b 18
48 No More dream Cafe 5c 8
49 Brainless 4a 23
50 The Competence Party 5c 30
51 Red Ken 6b 54
52 Boris 6b 34
53 Better Pepper Feta 5b 38
54 The Toaster Man 6a 38
55 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 53
56 Locally Sauced 6a 23
57 Full Fat Diet 4a 35
58 Hollow Talk 5c 106
59 Amused? 6b+ 53
60 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 138
61 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 37
62 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 7
63 Gallions Reach 5c 120
64 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 9
65 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 2
66 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 6
67 Tameness 5c * 132
68 Underachiever HVS 4c 1
69 Three Amigos 5c 37
70 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 17
71 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 4
72 No Time For Lunch 5a 56
73 Housequake 5c 42
74 The 51st State E3 6a 6
75 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 105
76 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 110
77 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 1
78 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
  Upper Lift: Right
80 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 6
81 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 132
82 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 13
83 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
84 Red Recess
-
6b+ 68
85 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
86 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 9
87 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 10
88 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 36
89 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 31
90 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 65
91 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 54
92 Sporty McSportFace 7a 11
93 Banana Crack
-
5c 253
94 Banana Skin 6a 256
95 Bananarama 5a 382
96 Simples 4c 60
97 The Banana Splits
-
4a 343
98 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 31
99 Little Slit VS 4c 94
100 Nice Thicket 5a 166
101 Cheese and Prickle 5a 33
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
103 Healing Potion 6a * 131
104 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 122
105 Bonjour Rodney 5a 120
106 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 120
107 Secretively Slabby 3 64
108 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 12
  Lower Lift
110 Meh (?) HS 4a 7
111 Dosa f4 6
112 Pakora f5 5
113 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 5
114 Storm Doris S 4a 6
115 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
116 Chippa E1 5b 38
117 Choppa E2 5c 23
118 Food for Worms E1 5c 17
119 Pak Choi HVS 5a 3
120 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 82
121 The Charlatan HVS 5a 56
122 Little Plums VS 4c 97
123 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 10
124 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 190
125 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 89
126 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 42
127 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 635
128 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 280
129 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 567
130 Kissing Moon
-
E3 5c 61
131 Finishing Touch 6b * 487
132 Sweet FA HVS 4c 172
133 Same Old Story 6a 469
134 The Corrective Party E2 6a 88
135 What Name? f6C 6
136 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 20
137 Mr Whippy 6c+ 277
138 Diminishing Returns 6c * 251
139 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 168
140 Diagon Alley 7a * 2
141 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 132
142 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 34
143 Shadows Run Black 6c 51
144 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 331
145 Esme Doodle 4b 120
146 In the Flow f3+ 20
147 Peak Flow f5+ 15
148 Flow Pipe f5+ * 19
149 Random Stan 3+ 66
150 Walk with Me 3+ 143
151 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 59
152 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 167
153 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 172
154 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 11
155 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 69
156 Wot! No Eric 6a 299
157 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 78
158 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 10
159 Wall and Corner S 4b 12
160 Less is More 5c 101
161 Flowstone Wall 5c 205
162 More of the Ass 4b 97
163 Hooting 3 27
164 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 14
165 Less Of The Ass 7a 4
  Roadside Lift
167 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 8
168 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
169 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
170 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 9
171 Eeyore's Place 5c 12
172 Performance Review E2 6a 3

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