Climbs 185
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

Sunny, quick-drying, convenient: understandably popular, despite a fair bit of dubious rock. Following recent, extensive new routing, there are now over 100 fully bolted sport routes, 55 which get a trad grade (some with a bolt or two, and there are a few old pegs here and there), and a few Font-graded boulder problems. The lower sections of some routes on the Lower Lift have become polished, and may feel hard for their grades.

UPDATE: regarding the information about SSSI status and whitebeams: a number of protected saplings have been marked with bits of black and yellow tape. The saplings may appear as insignificant, sawn-off little stumps, and the bits of tape may appear as little more than litter, which has led to some misinterpretation. More generally, continued access at WQ should not be taken for granted: please don't push it with parking under the crag if there's clearly no room, don't light fires, don't leave litter, etc.

The most up-to-date guidebook to the sport climbs at WQ is Wye Valley Sport, published by Great Western Rock. A few of the trad climbs are mentioned in the GWR book, but currently the definitive reference for the WQ trad climbs is the UKC crag page.

Approach notes

The A466 is currently closed (7th May 2019) between Tintern and St Arvans, so direct acces to the crag from this road is not possible from the Tintern direction (and presumably also from the Chepstow direction). .
Work is expected to complete late June 2019. Further works and road closures are expected on other sections in the immediate area in due course.
https://www.monmouthshire.gov.uk/2019/05/a466-closure-st-arvans-to-tintern/

Access Advice

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Re: What Name? How can this exist, even as an eliminate? The distance from the small, head height ledge on Corrective Party and the obvious left-pointing flake hold on Mr Whippy is 1.5 metres at most, and Timmy's Poorly Hand is already squeezed into that gap.
bpmclimb - 02/Jul/18
Just back from a trip here for the first time for a while; pretty disgusting to find 2 big dumps just a few feet from the bottom of routes. If you're likely to need a poo while out, take a poo bag (if it's what you do for dogs, it's what you do for human poo), or bury it, or go for a walk. Don't cover it in acres of toilet paper and a stone :( :(
Ruki - 16/Nov/17
I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Lift: Left
2 Finding Netherdom 5c 50
3 Oubliette 6a 47
4 As Above, So Below 5b 16
5 The Big 60 5a * 93
6 The Thousand Inch Stare A0 * 4
7 Pedestal Route 6a 588
8 Dewdrop VS 4b 240
9 Stranded No More 5a 537
10 Not the Arete 6a 328
11 Almost the Arete 6c+ * 27
12 The Arete 7a+ * 155
13 Canine Crack
-
E1 5b * 234
14 The Sun is Shining Down 6a+ * 536
15 Dog Face 6b+ 158
16 Come to Mother 5b 255
17 Hong Kong Wedding 6b * 312
18 Come to Mother/Hong Kong Wedding 6a+ 40
19 Hoodoo Garden linkup 7a 3
20 Hoodoo Magic 7a+ 93
21 Come to Granny * 4a * 1
22 Hong Kong Garden Direct E3 6a 3
23 House At The End Of The Rainbow 7a ** 3
24 House Of Magic 7b * 2
25 Bodger Bob E3 6a ** 148
26 Hong Kong Garden E4 6b ** 11
27 Shin Gi Tai 6b+ ** 482
28 Shin Gi Tai (2) 6b+ * 108
29 Shin Gi Tai (3) 6b+ * 32
30 Mark My Words E2 5b 16
31 Chepstow Killer Appliances 6a+ 314
32 THE END 6a+ 578
33 Touch of an Angel HVS 4c 14
34 All Hail Cathal E1 5a 16
35 Spider Baby E4 6a * 5
36 Gone are the Days 6a * 364
37 Head Full of Hedda 6a 153
38 Shamelessly Eliminate 6b 18
39 Sometimes I Won't Thrill You 6a+ * 703
40 It's Ovah for Jehovah 6a 341
41 Different Shades Of Blue 6a 86
42 Never What You Think 6a 88
43 What You Think 6c * 26
44 True Colours E1 5a 41
45 Wilkinson's Sword 7a * 243
46 Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+ 121
47 One in the Oven 6a+ 207
48 Apostrophe S (Left-hand start) 6a+ 63
49 Apostrophe S 6b+ 120
50 Poverty Stricken 5b 132
51 Tight Man's Tips 7a+ 149
52 Better In than Out 6b+ * 255
53 Winging It 6b 15
54 Pine Processionary 6b 70
55 No More dream Cafe 5c 158
56 Brainless 4a 107
57 The Competence Party 5c 126
58 Red Ken 6b 85
59 Boris 6b 41
60 Better Pepper Feta (Left hand) 6a+ 32
61 Better Pepper Feta 5b 163
62 The Toaster Man 6a 172
63 Don't Feed the Trolls 5b 148
64 Locally Sauced 6a 111
Climb name Grade
65 Full Fat Diet 4a 157
66 Hollow Talk 5c 261
67 Amused? 6b+ 107
68 Woke Up Dreamin' 6b+ * 363
69 Woke Up Dreamin' (2) 6a+ 52
70 Woke Up Dreamin' (3) 6c 10
71 Gallions Reach 5c 272
72 Traddy McTradFace E4 5c 10
73 New: Groove and Crack VS 5a 4
74 Totes Amazeballs HS 4b 8
75 Tameness 5c * 312
76 Underachiever HVS 4c 5
77 Three Amigos 5c 113
78 Three Amigos (original) 6b+ 20
79 Verticle Krak S 4a 1
80 Last Day of Summer VS 4b 5
81 No Time For Lunch 5a 119
82 Housequake 5c 170
83 Croeso y Gymru 6c+ * 21
84 The 51st State E3 6a 7
85 Rock Hard in a Funky Place 6b * 276
86 I Wish U Heaven 5c * 278
87 Wyndcliffe Crack HS 4b 2
88 Courting Disaster HVS 5a 6
89 The Nylon King VS 4c 1
  Upper Lift: Right
91 Thick Hitler HVS 5b 7
92 Silver-tongued Cavalier 6b 156
93 Slabby McSlabFace AKA Silver-tongued Cavalier (redux) 7a 66
94 Kicked To Death HS 4b 4
95 Red Recess
-
6b+ 73
96 Her Beloved Analytical Engine VS 4c 3
97 Arete de RĂ©incarnation VS 5a * 13
98 ArĂȘte de Controverse 5c * 18
99 Fishy Flavours VS 4c 52
100 Thick End of the Wedge 5c 86
101 The Crag of Impossible Dreams 5a 164
102 The Order of Yoni 6a+ * 124
103 Sporty McSportFace 7a 59
104 Banana Crack
-
5c 341
105 Banana Skin 6a 384
106 Bananarama 5a 465
107 Simples 4c 164
108 The Banana Splits
-
4a 505
109 Certified Rockfax Free 5c 125
110 Little Slit VS 4c 109
111 Nice Thicket 5a 277
112 Cheese and Prickle 5a 95
  Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right)
114 Healing Potion 6a * 321
115 Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche 4a 271
116 Stop Hitting Your Sister... (right of the seam) 6a 51
117 Bonjour Rodney 5a 278
118 Your Magic Is Upon Me 5b 275
119 Secretively Slabby 3a 190
120 The Climb Formerly Known as Secretively Slabby HVS 5a 17
  Lower Lift
122 Meh (?) HS 4a 9
123 Dosa f4 9
124 Pakora f5 9
125 Guys and Dolls E1 5b 6
126 Storm Doris S 4a 8
127 Chippa Leftward Escape VS 4c 2
128 Chippa E1 5b 46
Climb name Grade
129 Choppa E2 5c 26
130 Food for Worms E1 5c 20
131 Pak Choi HVS 5a 5
132 Nice and Dry HVS 5a 89
133 The Charlatan HVS 5a 66
134 Little Plums VS 4c 104
135 Rocky McRockFace VS 4c 11
136 The Rotten Corner HS 4b 207
137 Empire and Revolution E2 6a 101
138 Empire and Revolution Direct Finish 6c+ 100
139 One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+ 807
140 Old Men Last Longer 5c ** 638
141 Still Stuck on You HVS 5a * 686
142 Kissing Moon
-
E3 5c 67
143 Finishing Touch 6b * 640
144 Sweet FA HVS 4c 192
145 Same Old Story 6a 614
146 The Corrective Party E2 6a 106
147 What Name? f6C 11
148 Timmy's Poorly Hand 7b 43
149 Mr Whippy 6c+ 342
150 Diminishing Returns 6c * 322
151 Miss Whiplash 6c+ ** 214
152 Diagon Alley 7a * 10
153 And The Crowds Went Wild E2 5c 146
154 Shadows Run Black (original) E2 5c 35
155 Shadows Run Black 6c 147
156 Not the Return of Dr SquareHead 5c 443
157 Esme Doodle 4b 256
158 In the Flow f3+ 27
159 Out of Flow f5+ 5
160 Peak Flow f5+ 27
161 Gastonomical V3 3
162 Flow Pipe f5+ * 33
163 Tom's Dyno f6B+ 3
164 Flo Rida f7A+ * 3
165 Random Stan 3c 162
166 Walk with Me 3c 299
167 The Bolt Monster Returned 4a 213
168 Ollier's and Mafucci 5b 363
169 I Can't Stand the Rain 4c 365
170 The Huntly Blues HVS 4c 17
171 That One Might Be Work E1 5b 83
172 Wot! No Eric 6a 443
173 Can't 'Member HVS 5a 89
174 Fizzy Donkey HS 4b 13
175 Wall and Corner S 4b 16
176 Less is More 5c 228
177 Flowstone Wall 5c 275
178 More of the Ass 4b 217
179 Hooting 3a 77
180 Hooting (2) 4a 19
181 A Bucketful Of Suckies none 6b * 16
182 Lower lift traverse there and back 7b+ ** 1
183 Less Of The Ass 7a 8
  Roadside Lift
185 Ace of Shovels VS 4c 4
186 A Way of Being VS 4c 5
187 Not To Be Taken Seriously HS 4b 5
188 Fraxinus Excelsior 6b+ 11
189 Eeyore's Place 5c 13
190 Performance Review E2 6a 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer bpmclimb