Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

Gotcha! © The Ivanator

Crag features

Beeston is a fine series of interesting bays with some short, quality routes on excellent rock. It is a quiet area that is often ignored which may be worth considering on bank holidays. It is comprised of three sectors with very contrasting climbs. The Limekiln Cave has some good technical sport routes, and the Bay of Rainbows is great for soloing or easy routes on fantastic flowstone. The Great Escape Walls are a totally different ball game with an atmospheric stapled traverse and some very serious solos.

Approach notes

The cliffs are situated on the east coast just south of the village of Southwell. Parking is awkward. You may find a spot in Southwell but be careful not to block anyone in and be aware that tickets are regularly given here. The best spot is back in Cheyne Wears car park. From here walk down the coast path for 15 minutes, past the Neddyfields and above Godnor, until you reach a spoil heap above a promontory.

From Southwell walk down the road to the boulder-blocked quarry track 400m down the road from the Eight Kings, on the left. Go down the track for 300m to the coast path and continue directly down to the spoil heap.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)
Swanage and Portland (1995)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Golden Pants Wall
2 Online 3+ 12
3 Always a Little Further 6b 17
4 Social Lepers 7a+ 6
5 Suits you Sir! 7a 6
6 Winterset 6c 10
7 Skin Up 6a+ 24
8 Sea Pink 7a 7
9 Eva Luna 7a+ * 6
10 Fight the Good Fight 7a+ 4
11 Strategem 6b+ 11
12 Burnt Sienna 6b 21
  Limekiln Cave Area
14 Flake Break 6c * 1
15 Lardman 6a+ 3
16 East Coast Epic 6b * 3
17 Return to Form 6a * 7
18 Rusty Wall 6b * 3
19 Dirty Dog 6c * 2
20 Pavane 6a * 2
21 Aquaserene 7a *  
22 Te Taniwha 6b *  
23 Silence of the Deep 6b *  
24 Lucky Day in Hell 7b+  
25 Heart Full of Nails 7a+ *  
26 Konked Out 7a *  
27 Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust 5a 2
28 The League of Gurus 7a  
  The Great Escape Wall
30 Sea of Tears 6c *  
31 The Underhill Mob 6a+  
32 Depth Gauge
-
E4 6a *  
33 Esperanto
-
E1 6a  
34 Bastinado
-
E4 6a **  
35 The Machine
-
E5 6b **  
36 Deep Water Drug Bust
-
E4 6a **  
37 Nutters' Way
-
E5 6b *  
38 The 6.03
-
E3 6a *  
39 Scrubs
-
E4 6a *  
40 Borstal Brake-in
-
E3 6a *  
41 The Great Escape 6c * 6
42 Beach Madness 6c 3
43 Esmeralda's Monkey 7b 3
  Bay of Rainbows Area
45 Extreme Lives
-
E7 6b * 2
46 Staplebite
-
E4 5c 1
47 The Portland Screw
-
E1 5a 7
48 Ethical Vacuum
-
E4 6a 3
49 The Purple Pirate 3 12
50 Mr Krabs' New Sunglasses 3 10
51 This Ledge 'ain't Big Enough for the Both of Us 3+ 6
52 Stromboli 6a * 13
53 Krakatoa 4a * 97
54 Etna 3 * 135
55 Popacatapetl 6a * 44
56 Fifteen Minutes to Fame 6a * 41
57 Bay of Rainbows 6c+ ** 10
58 Belly Button Traverse 6a+ ** 49
59 Bay of Peegs
-
7a+ **  
60 Cornflake Girl 6b+ * 17
61 Bungle, Zippy and George 4c * 25
62 Gyonyuru
-
6c *  
63 Gyttja
-
6c  
64 Portland Exclusion Zone
-
6c 1
  No Idea Where These Are!! Any Helpers?
66 The Slab *
-
VD 1
67 The Twist *
-
VD 1
68 Easy Chimney *
-
HVS 4c 1
69 Thumbs Up *
-
E1 5b 2
70 Thumbs Down *
-
HVS 4c 2
71 Pitchfork Disney *
-
E1 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83