Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces E

Gotcha! © The Ivanator

Crag features

Beeston is a fine series of interesting bays with some short, quality routes on excellent rock. It is a quiet area that is often ignored which may be worth considering on bank holidays. It is comprised of three sectors with very contrasting climbs. The Limekiln Cave has some good technical sport routes, and the Bay of Rainbows is great for soloing or easy routes on fantastic flowstone. The Great Escape Walls are a totally different ball game with an atmospheric stapled traverse and some very serious solos.

Approach notes

The cliffs are situated on the east coast just south of the village of Southwell. Parking is awkward. You may find a spot in Southwell but be careful not to block anyone in and be aware that tickets are regularly given here. The best spot is back in Cheyne Wears car park. From here walk down the coast path for 15 minutes, past the Neddyfields and above Godnor, until you reach a spoil heap above a promontory.

From Southwell walk down the road to the boulder-blocked quarry track 400m down the road from the Eight Kings, on the left. Go down the track for 300m to the coast path and continue directly down to the spoil heap.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)
Swanage and Portland (1995)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Golden Pants Wall 
2Online3+ 12
3Always a Little Further6b 17
4Social Lepers7a+ 6
5Suits you Sir!7a 6
6Winterset6c 10
7Skin Up6a+ 24
8Sea Pink7a 7
9Eva Luna7a+ *6
10Fight the Good Fight7a+ 4
11Strategem6b+ 11
12Burnt Sienna6b 20
 Limekiln Cave Area 
14Flake Break6c *1
15Lardman6a+ 3
16East Coast Epic6b *3
17Return to Form6a *7
18Rusty Wall6b *3
19Dirty Dog6c *2
20Pavane6a *2
21Aquaserene7a * 
22Te Taniwha6b * 
23Silence of the Deep6b * 
24Lucky Day in Hell7b+  
25Heart Full of Nails7a+ * 
26Konked Out7a * 
27Rags to Rags, Rust to Rust5a 2
28The League of Gurus7a  
 The Great Escape Wall 
30Sea of Tears6c * 
31The Underhill Mob6a+  
32Depth Gauge
E4 6a * 
E1 6a  
E4 6a ** 
35The Machine
E5 6b ** 
36Deep Water Drug Bust
E4 6a ** 
37Nutters' Way
E5 6b * 
38The 6.03
E3 6a * 
E4 6a * 
40Borstal Brake-in
E3 6a * 
41The Great Escape6c *6
42Beach Madness6c 3
43Esmeralda's Monkey7b 1
 Bay of Rainbows Area 
45Extreme Lives
E7 6b *2
E4 5c 1
47The Portland Screw
E1 5a 7
48Ethical Vacuum
E4 6a 3
49The Purple Pirate3 10
50Mr Krabs' New Sunglasses3 10
51This Ledge 'ain't Big Enough for the Both of Us3+ 6
52Stromboli6a *14
53Krakatoa4a *104
54Etna3 *135
55Popacatapetl6a *48
56Fifteen Minutes to Fame6a *41
57Bay of Rainbows6c+ **10
58Belly Button Traverse6a+ **48
59Bay of Peegs
7a+ ** 
60Cornflake Girl6b+ *17
61Bungle, Zippy and George4c *25
6c * 
64Portland Exclusion Zone
6c 1
 No Idea Where These Are!! Any Helpers? 
66The Slab *
VD 1
67The Twist *
VD 1
68Easy Chimney *
HVS 4c 1
69Thumbs Up *
E1 5b 2
70Thumbs Down *
HVS 4c 2
71Pitchfork Disney *
E1 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83