Climbs 4
Rocktype Ice
Altitude 1901m a.s.l
Faces W
A number of single and multi pitch ice falls which are clearly visible from Montenvers station across the Mer de Glace. There are only 4 recorded climbs (in the outdated guidebook) but there are many other lines which may or may not have seen ascents.
The shortest approach is via the Montenvers train and gondola down onto the glacier followed by a short steep slog up the glacial moraine on the other side of the valley (approx. 1 hour from montenvers station). However this approach is becoming increasingly dangerous with the receeding glacier and eroding moraines, and should only be attempted on the coldest and shadiest of days (the moraine rains down on you when the sun hits it, and there are house sized boulders just waiting to fall!). By far the safer approach is on skis from the top of the Grand Montets ski area down the Pas de chevre off piste itinary, however with the cable car currently out of action this would require several hours of skiining first with heavy packs, therefore the routes here are very rarely climbed.
Avoid the Montenvers approach on sunny days, as the moraines are very unstable and the crag faces west so gets the afternoon sun.
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