Climbing banned in France

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, France has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

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Climbs 20
Rocktype Ice
Altitude 1431m a.s.l

Crag features

The Main cascade itself is only climbeable in the coldest of winters and rarely freezes completely due to the high flow rate, but the local guides farm ice on the left side wall (looking up stream) of the canyon. This is in condition most winters. There are good in situ anchors at the top of the crag, which are well maintained and used by the guides for top roping. There are also plenty of trees for setting up your own anchors. Some of the lines have bolts and make for mid grade mixed routes on lead. When well formed the iice will take good screws as well. On the right side wall of the canyon there are a number of hard natural dry tooling/mixed routes which are fully bolted.

Approach notes

Park at Le Buet SNCF station/La Poya ski piste car park and walk up hill, crossing the ski slopes and trending right, following signs for Buvette des Berard/Cascade de Berard (10 mins). Before reaching the buvette and cascade viewing platform you will see a fence on the right and several warning signs. You can absail directly in fom any of the in situ anchors, or walk down either left or right of the crag, where several fixed ropes are in place. To reach the main cascade, follow the stream bed up via a few pitches of 'ice canyoning'. To reach the dry tooling, cross the stream from the base of the farmed ice crags via some logs/stepping stones and make use of various fixed ropes to move around at the crag base.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Cascade de Berard WI-3+ **  
2 Farmed ice upper tier WI-4 * 1
3 Farmed ice lower tier WI-4 * 2
4 Douce Anarchie M4  
5 lettre a Elise M10  
6 Systeni? solar M6  
7 Ca Groove M6  
Climb name Grade
8 Les plombiers? M6  
9 Renveriment de situation
-
M6  
10 La patet?
-
M7  
11 Buz l'eclaire M7  
12 Au Feu M6  
13 Les Pingouins M9 *  
14 Petit loup M8  
Climb name Grade
15 Jeu de vilain M6  
16 L'iberique? M7  
17 Toute Bonne M5  
18 Le jam de Mr Houk
-
M4  
19 Cordon Detonnant M5  
20 Punk a Chier M5  

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