Climbs 26
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 14m a.s.l
Faces NE
Crag features
(NH 7641 9793) Alt. 30m North East facing
This crag is clearly seen when travelling south on the A9, across the mound on the south side of Loch Fleet. The rock is good quality conglomerate and gives good pocket climbing compared to the conglomerate further south. Given the nature of the rock, holds do break and attention to head protection and mindful belaying positions are necessary. There are currently no access issues.
The routes are described left to right.
All routes were bolted by Andrew and Sue Wilby except 23 and 24 by David Douglas and 10 by Simon Nadin.
First ascents by Andrew Wilby, Dave Douglas, Simon Nadin, Pete Clarkson, Murdo Jamieson and Mhairi Stewart.
There may be a bird of prey nesting on the crag early springtime. Last year it nested elsewhere. If it is spotted please contact Mountaineering Scotland access officer and let us know so that we can assess the nesting situation. Thanks
Approach notes
Directions
The rusted maillons have kindly been replaced by Ian Taylor in Aug 2023. Please always check the state of the lower offs before using.
As for Princess Cairn. After the cattle grid park in the 2nd passing place (NH 7659 9795). There is space for 2 cars and it will still function as a passing place. Please park further along if more than 2 cars.
Approach Time 5 – 10 mins
Cross the small wooden plank from the passing place and follow a vague path through the trees and then through bracken. Walk left when the crag is reached to an area of clean rock which leads up to the ledge below the crag. There is a rope in place but it is an easy scramble. The approach is short but can be ‘damp’ in places. Boots or wellies are advisable.
No Access Issues
This crag is in the vacinity of nesting Perigrines so if you see birds of prey showing obvious signs of distress please retreat from the crag and contact Mountaineering Scotland to let them know. Currently this doesn't appear to be a problem this year (June 2025)
Some climbers have had notes left on their cars with threats that if they persist in continuing to climb there, they will be reported to the Wildlife Crime Officer as the crag is a nesting site for Perigrines. If you are approached by this person please inform them that there has been discussions with the WLO and Raptor group and as the Perigrines don't appear to be nest near the crag climbing has been given the okay.
| 15/03/25 the passing place now has a no parking sign. We parked at the cattle grid. No nesting birds. DaveHK - 15/Mar/25 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Dave Douglas