Climbs 329
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces E

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Rik on Small but Perfectly Formed - 6a, Cheyne Wears © Brian H

Crag features

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. 

FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE

24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and BMC have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. The remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked - park here for The Lost Valley and Dungecroft Quarry.

The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park - park here for Beeston Cliff, Godnor South and Far North, Neddyfields Main Cliff, The Nook and Cheyne Cliff (this parking quickly fills up, although the large Cheyne Weares car park is only a couple of minutes walk back up the road). Good footpaths lead to all the cliffs.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
There is a tiny bird nesting next to the third bolt of Ecosystem. Maybe to let alone at the moment (April 2019)
FerClimbs - 22/Apr/19
Further landslip has left the 3 most northerly climbs inaccessible. Approach rope is buried, remaining slope looks unstable. Routes affected are Threatening Speedos, Pouch of Douglas, and Bariatric
ssutton - 29/Aug/17
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Godnor South
2 Portland Exclusion Zone 6c 2
3 Leonardo 6a+ 2
4 Mona Lisa 5c 5
5 Whitestones 3c 5
6 Corner Twin S 2
7 Corner Wall HVD 3
8 Slab and Crack HVD 2
9 Sidewalker
-
HS 4a 2
10 Anvil Point
-
HS 4b 2
11 Chimney Break
-
S 1
12 The Good Life 5c ** 15
13 Break-Over Crack E1 5b * 1
14 Enter Shikari 6c 6
15 The Gates
-
VS 4c 1
16 Dusky Corner
-
VD 1
17 Corner Direct
-
HS 4a 1
18 The Oh-No Variant
-
E2 5b 1
  Godnor North
20 Short, but Perfectly Formed 6a * 11
21 Big Slab Variant 4c * 15
22 Big Slab
-
VD 1
23 Unnamed (a.k.a. Hammerhead) 6a+ * 7
24 Crackers
-
HS 4a 1
25 Crow's Nest Corner
-
VD 4
26 Loving the Moment 6a 1
27 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HS 1
28 Euphemism 6b * 7
29 Prisoners of Gravity 6b * 4
30 Island in the Sun 6a * 8
31 Defiance
-
S 1
32 Private World 6a 6
33 Stress Test 6a 5
  Godnor Far North
35 Remember Blair Peach
-
HVS 4c/5a 1
36 Gi' It Laldy 6c * 5
37 Harpies and Quines 6b+ ** 83
38 Any Day Mike? 7b+ * 15
39 One Day, James 6b+ * 65
40 Pathfinder 6b * 115
41 Snatch Squad HS 4b 6
42 Sidewinder 6a 264
43 Dreamscape 6a * 322
44 Dreamscape Direct 6b * 109
45 Ben 5a * 529
46 Willem 5a * 595
47 Jasper 4c * 729
48 Jody Sunshine 4c * 586
49 Wave Warrior 4c * 761
50 Valerie's Patio 3a 706
51 Garden Party 6a * 203
52 Starbuck 6a 332
53 Last Human 6c 95
54 Tin Man 5c * 337
55 Rubber Truncheon
-
HS 4b 3
56 Tombstone 3c ** 923
57 Where Silence Has Lease 6c ** 206
58 Wedding Daze 6b * 309
59 Future Imperfect 6a+ ** 598
60 Jacob's Ladder 5a ** 863
61 The Truth is Out There 6b ** 431
62 Resistance is Futile 7a+ * 145
63 Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery 6b+ * 86
64 Factor 15 6a+ * 131
65 Net Asset 5c 117
66 Kung Fu Panda 4a * 375
67 Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum 4c * 290
68 Not Worth Bolting VS 4c 2
69 Cable Slab VS 1
  Neddyfields Main Cliff
71 Return of the Rice Bandit 6a 36
72 Midday Massacre 5a 74
73 La Fievre Spiteuse 5c 58
74 Lucy's off the Wall 5a 298
75 Nothing's Shocking 6a+ * 256
76 First Contact 6b * 171
77 Brace Yourself Sheila 5a * 421
78 Conquistadors of the Useless 6c * 96
79 Small Object of Desire 6a+ * 138
80 Annapurna, Mon Amour 6a+ 70
81 The Accelerator 7a * 447
82 Nameless (a.k.a. The Doppler Effect) 6c * 202
83 Born to Hunt 6c * 68
84 Thick as Thieves 6c 53
85 Three in a Bed 5c * 468
86 Frank's Effort HS 4a 7
87 Steve's Wall VS 4b 5
88 I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's 5c 323
89 Felix Navidad 6a+ * 380
90 Infelicity 6a 419
91 Milly Vanilly 6a 326
92 Books Across the Sea 6a 238
93 Puppet Show of Memory 6a 210
94 Inertia
-
VS 4b 10
95 Damn These Electric Sex Pants 6a+ 279
96 Kate 6b+ 102
97 Wonderlust 6b ** 573
98 Intimidation E1 5b 5
99 Prestige Worldwide 6b 9
100 Shit Route 7a 110
101 Julie Ocean 6c+ ** 312
102 Northern Invasion 7a 47
103 Bigus Dickus 6b 162
104 Lugwiler's Dismal Itch 6c * 199
105 Ecosystem 6b+ * 322
106 Time of the Month 6b+ * 380
107 Inception 5c * 800
108 The Screwfix Escourt Agency 6a+ * 362
109 The Scoop S 4a 19
110 Better Things HS 4a 11
111 Ocean Boulevard 4c * 776
112 Outside Left S 4a 49
113 Crush With Eyeliner E1 5b 14
Climb name Grade
114 Bundle of Joy 4a * 485
115 Sunday Rake S 4a 42
116 Spider Cracks HVS 5a 11
117 The Wilsonator 6b 57
118 Jobby's Leaving Gift 5b 73
119 Joe Stole My Route 5b 55
120 Butterfly Crack S 4a 15
  Neddyfields Bouldering Wall
122 Foreboding f6A 8
123 Hari-kiri f6B+ * 5
124 Psycho f6B+ ** 2
125 Bearing All f6A * 3
126 Great Bear f5+ * 51
127 Little Bear f4+ 87
128 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs f6C+ 2
129 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs, Sit-start f7A+ ** 1
130 Solar Stone f7A+ ** 6
131 Discretional Sin f7A **  
132 Indian Summer f6B * 17
133 Totem Pole f4+ ** 202
134 Papoose f6A * 71
135 Wampum f6C * 6
136 Vacillate f6B+ * 29
137 Jimbo's Wall f7B ** 4
138 Jimbo's Right-hand f7B ** 4
139 Pock Mark f7A+ ** 14
140 Prosthesis f6B * 12
141 Prosthesis, Sit-start f6C * 3
142 Colossus f6B+ * 11
143 Colossus, Sit-start f6C+ * 3
144 Stoic Existence f6B+ ** 25
145 Fontanel f7A * 10
146 Pete's Groove
-
V6 * 22
147 The Flake f6A ** 90
148 The Flake, Sit-start f6A+ ** 10
149 Flake Out f6B * 11
150 Flake Out, Sit-start f6B+ * 9
151 Local People f7A 4
152 Taming the Flow f6B ** 116
153 Fountain of Youth f5+ *** 253
154 Stolid f4 ** 119
155 Stopcock f4+ * 232
156 Protozoa V0- * 65
157 Amoeba State f5+ * 118
158 The Arête (Eliminate) V3 * 20
159 The Arête f6A+ ** 47
160 Savage Traverse f7A+ * 3
161 The Arête Direct f6C ** 5
162 Ripples f6A *** 152
163 Ripples, Sit-start f6B+ *** 11
164 Razor f6C+ ** 5
165 Razor, Sit-start f7A ** 2
166 Pete's Rib f6C+ *** 41
167 Pete's Rib, Sit-start f7A *** 10
168 Stairway Direct f6A+ * 64
169 Stairway f5+ * 124
170 Touched by God f7A+ ** 3
171 Chocolate Orange f7B ** 8
172 The Crack f5 * 53
173 Janus f7A * 3
174 Quick Step f5 * 135
175 The Mantel Piece f4+ * 157
176 Close Encounters f7A+ ** 4
177 Jimbo's Dyno f7A * 4
178 The Groove f6B+ ** 52
179 The Groove Eliminate f6C * 4
180 Straight and Narrow f6B+ * 9
181 Straight and Narrow, Sit-start f6C+ * 2
182 Diversion f6A * 60
183 Diversion, Sit-start f6C * 3
184 Gorkin Flip f6C * 6
185 The Pod f5 * 126
186 The Pod Escape f4+ * 44
187 Pod Escape Direct f4+ * 20
188 Before Records Began f5+ 6
189 Prior to 1974 f6A+ * 4
190 After 1974 f5 * 11
191 JP Flake f4+ * 12
192 One Hold f5+ 5
193 Many Dates in History f5+ * 8
194 Snatch and Grab f6A * 3
195 Disenchanted f6C+ ** 5
196 Mick Told Me To V1 * 2
  Cheyne House Quarry
198 Wax Work f6B * 19
199 Candle Wax f6B+ ** 22
200 Cortaderia Selloana f3 32
201 Upper Tier Ramp f4 30
202 Blunt Arête f5+ * 39
203 Sharp Arête f4+ * 59
204 Scruffy Corner f4 32
205 Scruffy Crack f5+ 26
206 Scruffy Wall f6A * 26
207 Jurassic Crack f5+ 43
208 Fallen Block Flake f5+ * 12
209 With Four Strong Men f6B+ 10
210 Fallen Block Wall f6A 19
211 Stray Shot f5+ * 25
212 Shot Gun f5+ * 21
213 Long Shot f6A 29
214 Last Shot f6A * 19
215 Crack Shot Left f4 * 32
216 Crack Shot Right f5+ 21
217 Lower Tier Ramp f4+ 22
218 No Pedestal f5+ * 17
219 Cheyne House Ramp f4+ * 21
220 Little Cheyne Wall f4 22
221 Little Cheyne Flake f3 21
  The Nook Quarry Bouldering - Same as Cheyne House Quarry?
223 The Herb Debate V2 17
224 The Banana Question V2 15
225 Finger the Beaver V1 19
226 Mrs Beaver V2 12
Climb name Grade
227 Mr Beaver V5 8
228 Ms Beaver V3 13
229 Sweaty Gym Socks VB 20
230 Squeeze the Beaver V1 15
231 The Ramp to Nowhere V0 16
  The Nook
233 Leering Crack 5a 45
234 Air Kisses 6c * 23
235 My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri-gri 6a 67
236 East Side Story 5c 91
237 Chill Dementia 4c 112
238 Sinister Dexter 6a+ * 54
239 Bring Me Sunshine 6a 77
240 It's a God Awful Small Affair 2a 72
241 Jugs of Joy HVD 19
  Cheyne Cliff
243 Mirror of the Sea 6c * 9
244 Silver-studded Blue 6b * 37
245 Raptor 6c * 17
246 Drowning on Dry Land 6c ** 99
247 Rocket from the Crypt 7a+ ** 60
248 Coralized 7b+ ** 25
249 Heartbeats 7a+ * 21
250 Van Life 7a+ ** 14
251 The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town 6a * 126
252 Dutch Courage 6c * 66
253 Found Under Carnal Knowledge 7a * 15
254 Fireblade 7b+ ** 12
255 Dynomite 7c+ ** 3
256 Pandemonium 7c+ ** 4
257 Poisoned Bamboo 7c ** 1
258 No Turn Unstoned 7a ** 61
259 Cruise Control 6a+ ** 155
260 Road Rage 7b+ *** 159
261 Detonator 7c ** 7
262 Illusions 7c *** 39
263 Yesterday's Dreams 7b+ ** 8
264 Remerberance Sunday 6b+ * 17
265 Italian Eighth 6b+ * 11
266 Threatening Speedos 6c+ 6
267 Pouch of Douglas 5a * 17
268 Bariatric 4a 17
  Dungecroft Quarry
270 Piece of Cake 3b 32
271 Received Wisdom 6a 31
272 Two Sixths 4c 38
273 Room for a Little'un? 5a 38
274 Ladder of Desire 5c 43
275 Splendid Vista 5b 44
276 Black Leather Rock 6a+ 23
277 Bain't no Coastpath 'ere! 6a+ 14
278 Welcome to Las Vegas, Mark 6a 23
279 A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo 5c * 93
280 The Lesser of Two Weevils 6b+ * 37
281 Wind Dog 6b * 50
282 Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh 2c 126
283 Trust me I'm a Doctor 3a 119
284 T-Muffhundred 4c 140
285 Chandelier 6b+ 2
286 I Fell in Love with Uranus 6b 3
287 Sping Nol 4c * 159
288 Julio's Ropeladder 6a+ * 101
289 Crimping the Ephemeral 6c 4
290 Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head 5c * 152
291 Ultrasonic Shoulder 6a+ * 77
292 Death Star Canteen 5c * 90
293 Crazy Old Hippies 4c * 237
294 Crowbar Assassin 6a+ 45
295 Covert Strike 6b * 26
296 The Epicurean Paradox 6b+ * 19
297 Dungecroft Delight 5a * 156
298 The Alpha and The Omega 3c * 201
299 Dirty Bertie 4c 137
300 Doris Does Dungecroft 3a 124
301 Hayabusa 6a 118
302 Fix It Duck 6b 84
303 We Apologise for the Inconvenience 5a 154
304 Gecko Wall 6a 67
305 Wall Lizard 6c+ 63
306 The Cookie Monster 3a 197
307 Make Cookies Not War 4a * 241
308 Rai 6a 94
309 Julia 6a 118
310 The Tooth Clown 5c 7
311 Peace 6a+ 39
312 Love 6c 20
313 Return of the Gecko 6c 20
314 I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk 4c 33
315 Well 'ard 7a+ 14
316 Little Terror 5a * 44
317 Blood on the Rocks 6a * 42
318 The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom 6b+ * 22
319 Viagra Wall 6c+ 5
320 Can You See Scratchy Bottom? 6a+ 34
321 Jaguar Skills 6c+ 6
322 Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite 2a 72
323 Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b * 11
324 Heroes of Swanage 5c 73
325 Heroes of Portland 6b 19
326 Lifesigns 7a+ 6
327 Sex, Lies and Videotape 7a 19
328 Last Ditch Effort 5b 11
329 Buzzin' 6b+ 7
330 Heviz V2 * 13
331 Mr Fudge V2 ** 11
332 Why Not V0- 14
333 Ginger Jihad VB 12
334 Lucky Pants VB 13
335 Cake or Death V1 9
336 Read the Sign 5b 15
337 The Hangover 6a 19
338 Suspiria de Profundis 6b 7
339 Slap and Tickle 6a+ 11

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