Climbs 330
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces E

View Stats

Rik on Small but Perfectly Formed - 6a, Cheyne Wears © Brian H

Crag features

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. 

FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE

24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and BMC have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. The remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked - park here for The Lost Valley and Dungecroft Quarry.

The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park - park here for Beeston Cliff, Godnor South and Far North, Neddyfields Main Cliff, The Nook and Cheyne Cliff (this parking quickly fills up, although the large Cheyne Weares car park is only a couple of minutes walk back up the road). Good footpaths lead to all the cliffs.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
There is a tiny bird nesting next to the third bolt of Ecosystem. Maybe to let alone at the moment (April 2019)
FerClimbs - 22/Apr/19
Further landslip has left the 3 most northerly climbs inaccessible. Approach rope is buried, remaining slope looks unstable. Routes affected are Threatening Speedos, Pouch of Douglas, and Bariatric
ssutton - 29/Aug/17
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Godnor South
2 Portland Exclusion Zone 6c 4
3 Who Knew 6b 1
4 Leonardo 6a+ 4
5 Mona Lisa 5c 5
6 Whitestones 3c 5
7 Corner Twin S 2
8 Corner Wall HVD 3
9 Slab and Crack HVD 2
10 Sidewalker
-
HS 4a 2
11 Anvil Point
-
HS 4b 2
12 Chimney Break
-
S 1
13 The Good Life 5c ** 16
14 Break-Over Crack E1 5b * 1
15 Enter Shikari 6c 6
16 The Gates
-
VS 4c 1
17 Dusky Corner
-
VD 1
18 Corner Direct
-
HS 4a 1
19 The Oh-No Variant
-
E2 5b 1
  Godnor North
21 Short, but Perfectly Formed 6a * 13
22 Big Slab Variant 4c * 20
23 Big Slab
-
VD 1
24 Unnamed (a.k.a. Hammerhead) 6a+ * 9
25 Crackers
-
HS 4a 1
26 Crow's Nest Corner
-
VD 4
27 Loving the Moment 6a 2
28 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HS 1
29 Euphemism 6b * 9
30 Prisoners of Gravity 6b * 4
31 Island in the Sun 6a * 11
32 Defiance
-
S 1
33 Private World 6a 6
34 Stress Test 6a 5
  Godnor Far North
36 Remember Blair Peach
-
HVS 4c/5a 1
37 Gi' It Laldy 6c * 5
38 Harpies and Quines 6b+ ** 88
39 Any Day Mike? 7b+ * 18
40 One Day, James 6b+ * 68
41 Pathfinder 6b * 124
42 Snatch Squad HS 4b 6
43 Sidewinder 6a 280
44 Dreamscape 6a * 339
45 Dreamscape Direct 6b * 112
46 Ben 5a * 555
47 Willem 5a * 631
48 Jasper 4c * 766
49 Jody Sunshine 4c * 616
50 Wave Warrior 4c * 797
51 Valerie's Patio 3a 738
52 Garden Party 6a * 230
53 Starbuck 6a 345
54 Last Human 6c 101
55 Tin Man 5c * 359
56 Rubber Truncheon
-
HS 4b 3
57 Tombstone 3c ** 974
58 Where Silence Has Lease 6c ** 226
59 Wedding Daze 6b * 337
60 Future Imperfect 6a+ ** 639
61 Jacob's Ladder 5a ** 928
62 The Truth is Out There 6b ** 471
63 Resistance is Futile 7a+ * 159
64 Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery 6b+ * 92
65 Factor 15 6a+ * 140
66 Net Asset 5c 131
67 Kung Fu Panda 4a * 409
68 Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum 4c * 315
69 Not Worth Bolting VS 4c 2
70 Cable Slab VS 1
  Neddyfields Main Cliff
72 Return of the Rice Bandit 6a 38
73 Midday Massacre 5a 84
74 La Fievre Spiteuse 5c 65
75 Lucy's off the Wall 5a 310
76 Nothing's Shocking 6a+ * 267
77 First Contact 6b * 176
78 Brace Yourself Sheila 5a * 440
79 Conquistadors of the Useless 6c * 110
80 Small Object of Desire 6a+ * 159
81 Annapurna, Mon Amour 6a+ 82
82 The Accelerator 7a * 479
83 Nameless (a.k.a. The Doppler Effect) 6c * 223
84 Born to Hunt 6c * 75
85 Thick as Thieves 6c 60
86 Three in a Bed 5c * 508
87 Frank's Effort HS 4a 7
88 Steve's Wall VS 4b 6
89 I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's 5c 349
90 Felix Navidad 6a+ * 417
91 Infelicity 6a 468
92 Milly Vanilly 6a 358
93 Books Across the Sea 6a 254
94 Puppet Show of Memory 6a 236
95 Inertia
-
VS 4b 10
96 Damn These Electric Sex Pants 6a+ 311
97 Kate 6b+ 117
98 Wonderlust 6b ** 624
99 Intimidation E1 5b 5
100 Prestige Worldwide 6b 10
101 Shit Route 7a 123
102 Julie Ocean 6c+ ** 336
103 Northern Invasion 7a 59
104 Bigus Dickus 6b 177
105 Lugwiler's Dismal Itch 6c * 209
106 Ecosystem 6b+ * 343
107 Time of the Month 6b+ * 400
108 Inception 5c * 848
109 The Screwfix Escourt Agency 6a+ * 387
110 The Scoop S 4a 19
111 Better Things HS 4a 12
112 Ocean Boulevard 4c * 821
113 Outside Left S 4a 53
114 Crush With Eyeliner E1 5b 14
Climb name Grade
115 Bundle of Joy 4a * 527
116 Sunday Rake S 4a 45
117 Spider Cracks HVS 5a 11
118 The Wilsonator 6b 67
119 Jobby's Leaving Gift 5b 82
120 Joe Stole My Route 5b 61
121 Butterfly Crack S 4a 16
  Neddyfields Bouldering Wall
123 Foreboding f6A 8
124 Hari-kiri f6B+ * 5
125 Psycho f6B+ ** 2
126 Bearing All f6A * 3
127 Great Bear f5+ * 51
128 Little Bear f4+ 89
129 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs f6C+ 2
130 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs, Sit-start f7A+ ** 1
131 Solar Stone f7A+ ** 6
132 Discretional Sin f7C **  
133 Indian Summer f6B * 17
134 Totem Pole f4+ ** 215
135 Papoose f6A * 77
136 Wampum f6C * 6
137 Vacillate f6B+ * 32
138 Jimbo's Wall f7B ** 4
139 Jimbo's Right-hand f7B ** 4
140 Pock Mark f7A+ ** 14
141 Prosthesis f6B * 13
142 Prosthesis, Sit-start f6C * 3
143 Colossus f6B+ * 11
144 Colossus, Sit-start f6C+ * 3
145 Stoic Existence f6B+ ** 25
146 Fontanel f7A * 11
147 Pete's Groove
-
V6 * 22
148 The Flake f6A ** 99
149 The Flake, Sit-start f6A+ ** 11
150 Flake Out f6B * 15
151 Flake Out, Sit-start f6B+ * 9
152 Local People f7A 4
153 Taming the Flow f6B ** 118
154 Fountain of Youth f5+ *** 263
155 Stolid f4 ** 140
156 Stopcock f4+ * 250
157 Protozoa V0- * 65
158 Amoeba State f5+ * 127
159 The Arête (Eliminate) V3 * 21
160 The Arête f6A+ ** 50
161 Savage Traverse f7A+ * 3
162 The Arête Direct f6C ** 5
163 Ripples f6A *** 170
164 Ripples, Sit-start f6B+ *** 14
165 Razor f6C+ ** 5
166 Razor, Sit-start f7A ** 2
167 Pete's Rib f6C+ *** 44
168 Pete's Rib, Sit-start f7A *** 10
169 Stairway Direct f6A+ * 65
170 Stairway f5+ * 130
171 Touched by God f7A+ ** 3
172 Chocolate Orange f7B ** 8
173 The Crack f5 * 64
174 Janus f7A * 3
175 Quick Step f5 * 150
176 The Mantel Piece f4+ * 170
177 Close Encounters f7A+ ** 4
178 Jimbo's Dyno f7A * 4
179 The Groove f6B+ ** 54
180 The Groove Eliminate f6C * 4
181 Straight and Narrow f6B+ * 11
182 Straight and Narrow, Sit-start f6C+ * 2
183 Diversion f6A * 67
184 Diversion, Sit-start f6C * 4
185 Gorkin Flip f6C * 7
186 The Pod f5 * 132
187 The Pod Escape f4+ * 48
188 Pod Escape Direct f4+ * 26
189 Before Records Began f5+ 7
190 Prior to 1974 f6A+ * 6
191 After 1974 f5 * 14
192 JP Flake f4+ * 16
193 One Hold f5+ 8
194 Many Dates in History f5+ * 9
195 Snatch and Grab f6A * 4
196 Disenchanted f6C+ ** 5
197 Mick Told Me To V1 * 2
  Cheyne House Quarry
199 Wax Work f6B * 20
200 Candle Wax f6B+ ** 25
201 Cortaderia Selloana f3 38
202 Upper Tier Ramp f4 36
203 Blunt Arête f5+ * 40
204 Sharp Arête f4+ * 63
205 Scruffy Corner f4 36
206 Scruffy Crack f5+ 29
207 Scruffy Wall f6A * 28
208 Jurassic Crack f5+ 45
209 Fallen Block Flake f5+ * 13
210 With Four Strong Men f6B+ 10
211 Fallen Block Wall f6A 20
212 Stray Shot f5+ * 27
213 Shot Gun f5+ * 23
214 Long Shot f6A 31
215 Last Shot f6A * 20
216 Crack Shot Left f4 * 34
217 Crack Shot Right f5+ 22
218 Lower Tier Ramp f4+ 23
219 No Pedestal f5+ * 18
220 Cheyne House Ramp f4+ * 21
221 Little Cheyne Wall f4 23
222 Little Cheyne Flake f3 22
  The Nook Quarry Bouldering - Same as Cheyne House Quarry?
224 The Herb Debate V2 17
225 The Banana Question V2 15
226 Finger the Beaver V1 19
227 Mrs Beaver V2 12
228 Mr Beaver V5 8
Climb name Grade
229 Ms Beaver V3 13
230 Sweaty Gym Socks VB 20
231 Squeeze the Beaver V1 15
232 The Ramp to Nowhere V0 16
  The Nook
234 Leering Crack 5a 49
235 Air Kisses 6c * 24
236 My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri-gri 6a 74
237 East Side Story 5c 99
238 Chill Dementia 4c 123
239 Sinister Dexter 6a+ * 65
240 Bring Me Sunshine 6a 85
241 It's a God Awful Small Affair 2a 81
242 Jugs of Joy HVD 19
  Cheyne Cliff
244 Mirror of the Sea 6c * 9
245 Silver-studded Blue 6b * 37
246 Raptor 6c * 17
247 Drowning on Dry Land 6c ** 107
248 Rocket from the Crypt 7a+ ** 65
249 Coralized 7b+ ** 30
250 Heartbeats 7a+ * 22
251 Van Life 7a+ ** 15
252 The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town 6a * 132
253 Dutch Courage 6c * 66
254 Found Under Carnal Knowledge 7a * 15
255 Fireblade 7b+ ** 12
256 Dynomite 7c+ ** 3
257 Pandemonium 7c+ ** 6
258 Poisoned Bamboo 7c ** 1
259 No Turn Unstoned 7a ** 65
260 Cruise Control 6a+ ** 176
261 Road Rage 7b+ *** 178
262 Detonator 7c ** 12
263 Illusions 7c *** 40
264 Yesterday's Dreams 7b+ ** 8
265 Remerberance Sunday 6b+ * 18
266 Italian Eighth 6b+ * 11
267 Threatening Speedos 6c+ 6
268 Pouch of Douglas 5a * 17
269 Bariatric 4a 17
  Dungecroft Quarry
271 Piece of Cake 3b 38
272 Received Wisdom 6a 33
273 Two Sixths 4c 43
274 Room for a Little'un? 5a 42
275 Ladder of Desire 5c 48
276 Splendid Vista 5b 49
277 Black Leather Rock 6a+ 27
278 Bain't no Coastpath 'ere! 6a+ 19
279 Welcome to Las Vegas, Mark 6a 25
280 A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo 5c * 98
281 The Lesser of Two Weevils 6b+ * 40
282 Wind Dog 6b * 52
283 Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh 2c 133
284 Trust me I'm a Doctor 3a 129
285 T-Muffhundred 4c 150
286 Chandelier 6b+ 2
287 I Fell in Love with Uranus 6b 4
288 Sping Nol 4c * 168
289 Julio's Ropeladder 6a+ * 108
290 Crimping the Ephemeral 6c 7
291 Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head 5c * 156
292 Ultrasonic Shoulder 6a+ * 83
293 Death Star Canteen 5c * 92
294 Crazy Old Hippies 4c * 252
295 Crowbar Assassin 6a+ 46
296 Covert Strike 6b * 28
297 The Epicurean Paradox 6b+ * 22
298 Dungecroft Delight 5a * 171
299 The Alpha and The Omega 3c * 221
300 Dirty Bertie 4c 145
301 Doris Does Dungecroft 3a 132
302 Hayabusa 6a 126
303 Fix It Duck 6b 94
304 We Apologise for the Inconvenience 5a 168
305 Gecko Wall 6a 69
306 Wall Lizard 6c+ 63
307 The Cookie Monster 3a 204
308 Make Cookies Not War 4a * 258
309 Rai 6a 98
310 Julia 6a 124
311 The Tooth Clown 5c 7
312 Peace 6a+ 39
313 Love 6c 20
314 Return of the Gecko 6c 20
315 I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk 4c 37
316 Well 'ard 7a+ 17
317 Little Terror 5a * 46
318 Blood on the Rocks 6a * 43
319 The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom 6b+ * 23
320 Viagra Wall 6c+ 5
321 Can You See Scratchy Bottom? 6a+ 33
322 Jaguar Skills 6c+ 6
323 Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite 2a 76
324 Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b * 12
325 Heroes of Swanage 5c 76
326 Heroes of Portland 6b 19
327 Lifesigns 7a+ 6
328 Sex, Lies and Videotape 7a 19
329 Last Ditch Effort 5b 11
330 Buzzin' 6b+ 7
331 Heviz V2 * 13
332 Mr Fudge V2 ** 11
333 Why Not V0- 14
334 Ginger Jihad VB 12
335 Lucky Pants VB 13
336 Cake or Death V1 9
337 Read the Sign 5b 16
338 The Hangover 6a 20
339 Suspiria de Profundis 6b 8
340 Slap and Tickle 6a+ 12

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Adam Perrett and Marti999