Climbs 377
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

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Rik on Small but Perfectly Formed - 6a, Cheyne Wears © Brian H

Crag features

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. 

FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE

24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and BMC have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. The remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked - park here for The Lost Valley and Dungecroft Quarry.

The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park - park here for Beeston Cliff, Godnor South and Far North, Neddyfields Main Cliff, The Nook and Cheyne Cliff (this parking quickly fills up, although the large Cheyne Weares car park is only a couple of minutes walk back up the road). Good footpaths lead to all the cliffs.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
There is a tiny bird nesting next to the third bolt of Ecosystem. Maybe to let alone at the moment (April 2019)
FerClimbs - 22/Apr/19
Further landslip has left the 3 most northerly climbs inaccessible. Approach rope is buried, remaining slope looks unstable. Routes affected are Threatening Speedos, Pouch of Douglas, and Bariatric
ssutton - 29/Aug/17
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Godnor South
2 Portland Exclusion Zone 6c 2
3 Leonardo 6a+ 2
4 Mona Lisa 5c 5
5 Whitestones 3c 5
6 Corner Twin S 2
7 Corner Wall HVD 3
8 Slab and Crack HVD 2
9 Sidewalker
-
HS 4a 2
10 Anvil Point
-
HS 4b 2
11 Chimney Break
-
S 1
12 The Good Life 5c ** 15
13 Break-Over Crack E1 5b * 1
14 Enter Shikari 6c 6
15 The Gates
-
VS 4c 1
16 Dusky Corner
-
VD 1
17 Corner Direct
-
HS 4a 1
18 The Oh-No Variant
-
E2 5b 1
  Godnor North
20 Small but Perfectly Formed 6a * 11
21 Big Slab Variant 4c * 15
22 Big Slab
-
VD 1
23 Unnamed (aka Hammerhead) 6a+ * 7
24 Crackers
-
HS 4a 1
25 Crow's Nest Corner
-
VD 4
26 Loving the Moment 6a 1
27 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HS 1
28 Euphemism 6b * 7
29 Prisoners of Gravity 6b * 4
30 Island in the Sun 6a * 8
31 Defiance
-
S 1
32 Private World 6a 6
33 Stress Test 6a 5
  Godnor Far North
35 Remember Blair Peach
-
HVS 4c/5a 1
36 Gi' It Laldy 6c * 5
37 Harpies and Quines 6b+ ** 82
38 Any Day Mike? 7b+ * 14
39 One Day, James 6b+ * 64
40 Pathfinder 6b * 115
41 Snatch Squad HS 4b 6
42 Sidewinder 6a 261
43 Dreamscape 6a * 317
44 Dreamscape Direct 6b * 109
45 Ben 5a * 519
46 Willem 5a * 588
47 Jasper 4c * 725
48 Jody Sunshine 4c * 582
49 Wave Warrior 4c * 749
50 Valerie's Patio 3a 699
51 Garden Party 6a * 196
52 Starbuck 6a 329
53 Last Human 6c 93
54 Tin Man 5c * 331
55 Rubber Truncheon
-
HS 4b 3
56 Tombstone 3c ** 906
57 Where Silence Has Lease 6c ** 204
58 Wedding Daze 6b * 306
59 Future Imperfect 6a+ ** 592
60 Jacob's Ladder 5a ** 854
61 The Truth is Out There 6b ** 425
62 Resistance is Futile 7a+ * 140
63 Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery 6b+ * 84
64 Factor 15 6a+ * 130
65 Net Asset 5c 115
66 Kung Fu Panda 4a * 369
67 Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum 4c * 286
68 Not Worth Bolting VS 4c 2
69 Cable Slab * VS 1
  Neddyfields Main Cliff
71 Return of the Rice Bandit 6a 36
72 Midday Massacre 5a 73
73 La Fievre Spiteuse 5c 58
74 Lucy's off the Wall 5a 297
75 Nothing's Shocking 6a+ * 255
76 First Contact 6b * 171
77 Brace Yourself Sheila 5a * 419
78 Conquistadors of the Useless 6c * 95
79 Small Object of Desire 6a+ * 136
80 Annapurna, Mon Amour 6a+ 70
81 The Accelerator 7a * 439
82 Nameless (aka The Doppler Effect) 6c * 201
83 Born To Hunt 6c * 68
84 Thick as Thieves 6c 53
85 Three in a Bed 5c * 461
86 Franks Effort HS 4a 7
87 Steve's Wall VS 4b 5
88 I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's 5c 311
89 Felix Navidad 6a+ * 374
90 Infelicity 6a 413
91 Milly Vanilly 6a 323
92 Books Across the Sea 6a 236
93 Puppet Show of Memory 6a 208
94 Inertia
-
VS 4b 10
95 Damn These Electric Sex Pants 6a+ 270
96 Kate 6b+ 100
97 Wonderlust 6b ** 567
98 Intimidation E1 5b 5
99 Prestige Worldwide 6b 9
100 Shit Route 7a 109
101 Julie Ocean 6c+ ** 310
102 Northern Invasion 7a 47
103 Bigus Dickus 6b 158
104 Lugwiler's Dismal Itch 6c * 197
105 Ecosystem 6b+ * 316
106 Time of the Month 6b+ * 378
107 Inception 5c * 787
108 The Screwfix Escourt Agency 6a+ * 357
109 The Scoop S 4a 19
110 Better Things HS 4a 11
111 Ocean Boulevard 4c * 767
112 Outside Left S 4a 49
113 Crush With Eyeliner E1 5b 14
114 Bundle of Joy 4a * 471
115 Sunday Rake S 4a 42
116 Spider Cracks HVS 5a 11
117 The Wilsonator 6b 55
118 Jobby's Leaving gift 5b 69
119 Joe Stole My Route 5b 54
120 Butterfly Crack S 4a 15
  Neddyfields Bouldering Wall
122 Foreboding f6A 8
123 Hari-kiri f6B+ * 5
124 Psycho f6B+ ** 2
125 Bearing All f6A * 3
126 Great Bear f5+ * 51
127 Little Bear f4+ 87
128 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs f6C+ 2
129 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs, Sit-start f7A+ ** 1
130 Solar Stone f7A+ ** 6
Climb name Grade
131 Indian Summer f6B * 17
132 Totem Pole f4+ ** 202
133 Papoose f6A * 71
134 Wampum f6C * 6
135 Vacillate f6B+ * 29
136 Jimbo's Wall f7B ** 4
137 Jimbo's Right Hand f7B ** 4
138 Pock Mark f7A+ ** 14
139 Prosthesis f6B * 12
140 Prosthesis, Sit-start f6C * 3
141 Colossus f6B+ * 11
142 Colossus, Sit-start f6C+ * 3
143 Stoic Existence f6B+ ** 25
144 Fontanel f7A * 10
145 Pete's Groove
-
V6 * 22
146 The Flake f6A ** 89
147 The Flake, Sit-start f6A+ ** 10
148 Flake Out f6B * 11
149 Flake Out, Sit-start f6B+ * 9
150 Local People f7A 4
151 Taming the Flow f6B ** 116
152 Fountain of Youth f5+ *** 253
153 Stolid f4 ** 119
154 Stopcock f4+ * 232
155 Protozoa V0- * 65
156 Amoeba State f5+ * 118
157 The Arête (Eliminate) V3 * 20
158 The Arête f6A+ ** 47
159 Savage Traverse f7A+ * 3
160 The Arête Direct f6C ** 5
161 Ripples f6A *** 152
162 Ripples, Sit-start f6B+ *** 11
163 Razor f6C+ ** 5
164 Razor, Sit-start f7A ** 2
165 Pete's Rib f6C+ *** 41
166 Pete's Rib, Sit-start f7A *** 10
167 Stairway Direct f6A+ * 64
168 Stairway f5+ * 124
169 Touched by God f7A+ ** 3
170 Chocolate Orange f7B ** 8
171 The Crack f5 * 52
172 Janus f7A * 3
173 Quick Step f5 * 135
174 The Mantel Piece f4+ * 157
175 Close Encounters f7A+ ** 4
176 Jimbo's Dyno f7A * 4
177 The Groove f6B+ ** 52
178 The Groove Eliminate f6C * 4
179 Straight and Narrow f6B+ * 9
180 Straight and Narrow, Sit-start f6C+ * 2
181 Diversion f6A * 60
182 Diversion, Sit-start f6C * 3
183 Gorkin Flip f6C * 6
184 The Pod f5 * 125
185 The Pod Escape f4+ * 43
186 Pod Escape Direct f4+ * 19
187 Before Records Began f5+ 6
188 Prior to 1974 f6A+ * 4
189 After 1974 f5 * 11
190 JP Flake f4+ * 11
191 One Hold f5+ 5
192 Many Dates in History f5+ * 8
193 Snatch and Grab f6A * 3
194 Disenchanted f6C+ ** 5
195 Mick Told Me To V1 * 2
  Cheyne House Quarry
197 Wax Work f6B * 19
198 Candle Wax f6B+ ** 22
199 Cortaderia Selloana f3 32
200 Upper Tier Ramp f4 30
201 Blunt Arête f5+ * 39
202 Sharp Arête f4+ * 59
203 Scruffy Corner f4 32
204 Scruffy Crack f5+ 26
205 Scruffy Wall f6A * 26
206 Jurassic Crack f5+ 43
207 Fallen Block Flake f5+ * 12
208 With Four Strong Men f6B+ 10
209 Fallen Block Wall f6A 19
210 Stray Shot f5+ * 25
211 Shot Gun f5+ * 21
212 Long Shot f6A 29
213 Last Shot f6A * 19
214 Crack Shot Left f4 * 32
215 Crack Shot Right f5+ 21
216 Lower Tier Ramp f4+ 22
217 No Pedestal f5+ * 17
218 Cheyne House Ramp f4+ * 21
219 Little Cheyne Wall f4 22
220 Little Cheyne Flake f3 21
  The Nook Quarry Bouldering - Same as Cheyne House Quarry?
222 The Herb Debate V2 17
223 The Banana Question V2 15
224 Finger the Beaver V1 19
225 Mrs Beaver V2 12
226 Mr Beaver V5 8
227 Ms Beaver V3 13
228 Sweaty Gym Socks VB 20
229 Squeeze the Beaver V1 15
230 The Ramp to Nowhere V0 16
  The Nook
232 Leering Crack 5a 45
233 Air Kisses 6c * 23
234 My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri 6a 67
235 East Side Story 5c 91
236 Chill Dementia 4c 112
237 Sinister Dexter 6a+ * 54
238 Bring Me Sunshine 6a 77
239 It's a God Awful Small Affair 2a 72
240 Jugs of Joy HVD 19
  Cheyne Cliff
242 Mirror of the Sea 6c * 9
243 Silver-studded Blue 6b * 37
244 Raptor 6c * 17
245 Drowning on Dry Land 6c ** 99
246 Rocket from the Crypt 7a+ ** 59
247 Coralized 7b+ ** 25
248 Heartbeats 7a+ * 21
249 Van Life 7a+ ** 14
250 The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town 6a * 125
251 Dutch Courage 6c * 64
252 Found Under Carnal Knowledge 7a * 14
253 Fireblade 7b+ ** 12
254 Dynomite 7c+ ** 3
255 Pandemonium 7c+ ** 4
256 Poisoned Bamboo 7c ** 1
257 No Turn Unstoned 7a ** 58
258 Cruise Control 6a+ ** 152
259 Road Rage 7b+ *** 155
260 Detonator 7c ** 6
Climb name Grade
261 Illusions 7c *** 38
262 Yesterday's Dreams 7b+ ** 8
263 Remerberance Sunday 6b+ * 17
264 Italian Eighth 6b+ * 11
265 Threatening Speedos 6c+ 6
266 Pouch of Douglas 5a * 17
267 Bariatric 4a 17
  Dungecroft Quarry
269 Piece of Cake 3b 29
270 Received Wisdom 6a 28
271 Two Sixths 4c 37
272 Room for a Little'un? 5a 35
273 Ladder of Desire 5c 40
274 Splendid Vista 5b 43
275 Black Leather Rock 6a+ 22
276 Bain't no Coastpath 'ere! 6a+ 14
277 Welcome to Las Vegas, Mark 6a 20
278 A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo 5c * 91
279 The Lesser of Two Weevils 6b+ * 36
280 Wind Dog 6b * 49
281 Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh 2c 125
282 Trust me I'm a Doctor 3a 118
283 T-Muffhundred 4c 137
284 Chandelier 6b+ 2
285 I Fell in Love with Uranus 6b 3
286 Sping Nol 4c * 156
287 Julio's Ropeladder 6a+ * 99
288 Crimping the Ephemeral 6c 4
289 Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head 5c * 151
290 Ultrasonic Shoulder 6a+ * 76
291 Death Star Canteen 5c * 87
292 Crazy Old Hippies 4c * 232
293 Crowbar Assassin 6a+ 44
294 Covert Strike 6b * 26
295 The Epicurean Paradox 6b+ * 19
296 Dungecroft Delight 5a * 147
297 The Alpha and The Omega 3c * 191
298 Dirty Bertie 4c 136
299 Doris Does Dungecroft 3a 123
300 Hayabusa 6a 118
301 Fix It Duck 6b 84
302 We Apologise for the Inconvenience 5a 151
303 Gecko Wall 6a 65
304 Wall Lizard 6c+ 60
305 The Cookie Monster 3a 193
306 Make Cookies Not War 4a * 234
307 Rai 6a 93
308 Julia 6a 117
309 The Tooth Clown 5c 7
310 Peace 6a+ 39
311 Love 6c 20
312 Return of the Gecko 6c 20
313 I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk 4c 33
314 Well 'ard 7a+ 14
315 Little Terror 5a * 44
316 Blood on the Rocks 6a * 42
317 The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom 6b+ * 22
318 Viagra Wall 6c+ 5
319 Can You See Scratchy Bottom? 6a+ 34
320 Jaguar Skills 6c+ 6
321 Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite 2a 71
322 Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b * 11
323 Heroes of Swanage 5c 72
324 Heroes of Portland 6b 19
325 Lifesigns 7a+ 6
326 Sex, Lies and Videotape 7a 19
327 Last Ditch Effort 5b 11
328 Buzzin' 6b+ 7
329 Heviz V2 * 13
330 Mr Fudge V2 ** 11
331 Why Not V0- 14
332 Ginger Jihad VB 12
333 Lucky Pants VB 13
334 Cake or Death V1 9
335 Read The Sign 5b 15
336 The Hangover 6a 19
337 Suspiria de Profundis 6b 7
338 Slap and Tickle 6a+ 11
  The Lost Valley
340 Left-Right Traverse f6A 2
341 Fallen Angel 5a 10
342 Heavens Above 7b 1
343 Marry Me in Vegas? 7b 2
344 Heaven Traverse E2 5b 1
345 Tug on This Jody 7a 15
346 Look West & Find Salvation 7a+ 8
347 Quite Nice Actually 6b+ 8
348 Even Nicer 6b 3
349 Little Pinky 6b+ 9
350 Drilling in the Name 6b+ * 32
351 Robin Crack 5a * 77
352 Birdie Num Num 6c+ 4
353 Clamped Aggression 6b+ * 6
354 Bastard Crack 7a 3
355 Plystalker 7c 3
356 No Chutney on His Ferret 5c 21
357 Chapter and Verse 6a 48
358 Oatsheaf, Chief 5c 26
359 Training for Hubble 6a+ * 48
360 The Stoning of St. Stephen 7b+ ** 10
361 Mono y Mono 7a+ * 2
362 Cadwallader 6b+ * 63
363 Redundancy Crack E1 5b 20
364 The Martyr 7a+ ** 18
365 The Secret Garden 6b+ * 82
366 The Beauty of Decay 6b+ 35
367 Tactical Nuclear Penguin 6b 48
368 Slug
-
E1 5b 4
369 Flake Away 4a 258
370 Portrait of a Lady 6c+ 31
371 Flaked Out 4c 209
372 Echoes of Trad 4c 143
373 Test Pilot 6a * 185
374 Primordial 6a+ * 85
375 Touch the Earth 7a 27
376 Constant Companion 5a 43
377 Promethean Flame 6a 4
378 Lush 5c * 82
379 Head in a Bush 3c 99
380 The Angel from my Nightmare 3a 91
381 Sweet Dreams Are Made of This 3c 225
382 4, 8, 15, 16, 23, 42 4c 209
383 Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite 5a 221
384 Not the Same Mistake Again Kath 5c 204
385 Plastic Tractor 3c 153
386 Dude, Where's My Car? S 19
387 The Lost Domain 6a 27
388 Enjoy My Experience 6c+ 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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