Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 331
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces E

View Stats

Rik on Small but Perfectly Formed - 6a, Cheyne Wears © Brian H

Crag features

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. 

FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE

24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and BMC have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. The remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked - park here for The Lost Valley and Dungecroft Quarry.

The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park - park here for Beeston Cliff, Godnor South and Far North, Neddyfields Main Cliff, The Nook and Cheyne Cliff (this parking quickly fills up, although the large Cheyne Weares car park is only a couple of minutes walk back up the road). Good footpaths lead to all the cliffs.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
There is a tiny bird nesting next to the third bolt of Ecosystem. Maybe to let alone at the moment (April 2019)
FerClimbs - 22/Apr/19
Further landslip has left the 3 most northerly climbs inaccessible. Approach rope is buried, remaining slope looks unstable. Routes affected are Threatening Speedos, Pouch of Douglas, and Bariatric
ssutton - 29/Aug/17
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Godnor South
2 Portland Exclusion Zone 6c 4
3 Who Knew 6b 1
4 Leonardo 6a+ 4
5 Mona Lisa 5c 5
6 Whitestones 3c 5
7 Corner Twin S 2
8 Corner Wall HVD 3
9 Slab and Crack HVD 2
10 Sidewalker
-
HS 4a 2
11 Anvil Point
-
HS 4b 2
12 Chimney Break
-
S 1
13 The Good Life 5c ** 16
14 Break-Over Crack E1 5b * 1
15 Enter Shikari 6c 6
16 The Gates
-
VS 4c 1
17 Dusky Corner
-
VD 1
18 Corner Direct
-
HS 4a 1
19 The Oh-No Variant
-
E2 5b 1
  Godnor North
21 Short, but Perfectly Formed 6a * 12
22 Big Slab Variant 4c * 20
23 Big Slab
-
VD 1
24 Unnamed (a.k.a. Hammerhead) 6a+ * 9
25 Crackers
-
HS 4a 1
26 Crow's Nest Corner
-
VD 4
27 Loving the Moment 6a 2
28 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HS 1
29 Euphemism 6b * 9
30 Prisoners of Gravity 6b * 4
31 Island in the Sun 6a * 12
32 Defiance
-
S 1
33 Private World 6a 6
34 Stress Test 6a 5
  Godnor Far North
36 Remember Blair Peach
-
HVS 4c/5a 1
37 Gi' It Laldy 6c * 5
38 Harpies and Quines 6b+ ** 90
39 Any Day Mike? 7b+ * 17
40 One Day, James 6b+ * 68
41 Pathfinder 6b * 123
42 Snatch Squad HS 4b 6
43 Sidewinder 6a 280
44 Dreamscape 6a * 339
45 Dreamscape Direct 6b * 112
46 Ben 5a * 558
47 Willem 5a * 633
48 Jasper 4c * 772
49 Jody Sunshine 4c * 624
50 Wave Warrior 4c * 804
51 Valerie's Patio 3a 746
52 Garden Party 6a * 239
53 Starbuck 6a 346
54 Last Human 6c 101
55 Tin Man 5c * 359
56 Rubber Truncheon
-
HS 4b 3
57 Tombstone 3c ** 987
58 Where Silence Has Lease 6c ** 230
59 Wedding Daze 6b * 337
60 Future Imperfect 6a+ ** 640
61 Jacob's Ladder 5a ** 931
62 The Truth is Out There 6b ** 471
63 Resistance is Futile 7a+ * 161
64 Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery 6b+ * 92
65 Factor 15 6a+ * 140
66 Net Asset 5c 131
67 Kung Fu Panda 4a * 413
68 Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum 4c * 316
69 Not Worth Bolting VS 4c 2
70 Cable Slab VS 2
  Neddyfields Main Cliff
72 Return of the Rice Bandit 6a 39
73 Midday Massacre 5a 87
74 La Fievre Spiteuse 5c 68
75 Lucy's off the Wall 5a 314
76 Nothing's Shocking 6a+ * 268
77 First Contact 6b * 177
78 Brace Yourself Sheila 5a * 447
79 Conquistadors of the Useless 6c * 110
80 Small Object of Desire 6a+ * 166
81 Annapurna, Mon Amour 6a+ 85
82 The Accelerator 7a * 493
83 Nameless (a.k.a. The Doppler Effect) 6c * 230
84 Born to Hunt 6c * 80
85 Thick as Thieves 6c 61
86 Three in a Bed 5c * 514
87 Frank's Effort HS 4a 8
88 Steve's Wall VS 4b 6
89 I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's 5c 356
90 Felix Navidad 6a+ * 431
91 Infelicity 6a 472
92 Milly Vanilly 6a 369
93 Books Across the Sea 6a 265
94 Puppet Show of Memory 6a 238
95 Inertia
-
VS 4b 11
96 Damn These Electric Sex Pants 6a+ 322
97 Kate 6b+ 116
98 Wonderlust 6b ** 649
99 Intimidation E1 5b 5
100 Prestige Worldwide 6b 11
101 Shit Route 7a 122
102 Julie Ocean 6c+ ** 340
103 Northern Invasion 7a 58
104 Bigus Dickus 6b 187
105 Lugwiler's Dismal Itch 6c * 216
106 Ecosystem 6b+ * 351
107 Time of the Month 6b+ * 404
108 Inception 5c * 864
109 The Screwfix Escourt Agency 6a+ * 403
110 The Scoop S 4a 20
111 Better Things HS 4a 12
112 Ocean Boulevard 4c * 833
113 Outside Left S 4a 54
114 Crush With Eyeliner E1 5b 14
Climb name Grade
115 Bundle of Joy 4a * 524
116 Sunday Rake S 4a 46
117 Spider Cracks HVS 5a 11
118 The Wilsonator 6b 71
119 Jobby's Leaving Gift 5b 90
120 Joe Stole My Route 5b 65
121 Butterfly Crack S 4a 17
  Neddyfields Bouldering Wall
123 Foreboding f6A 8
124 Hari-kiri f6B+ * 5
125 Psycho f6B+ ** 2
126 Bearing All f6A * 5
127 Great Bear f5+ * 53
128 Little Bear f4+ 90
129 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs f6C+ 2
130 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs, Sit-start f7A+ ** 1
131 Solar Stone f7A+ ** 6
132 Discretional Sin f7C **  
133 Indian Summer f6B * 17
134 Totem Pole f4+ ** 216
135 Papoose f6A * 78
136 Wampum f6C * 6
137 Vacillate f6B+ * 33
138 Jimbo's Wall f7B ** 4
139 Jimbo's Right-hand f7B ** 4
140 Pock Mark f7A+ ** 15
141 Prosthesis f6B * 15
142 Prosthesis, Sit-start f6C * 3
143 Colossus f6B+ * 12
144 Colossus, Sit-start f6C+ * 3
145 Stoic Existence f6B+ ** 26
146 Fontanel f7A * 14
147 Pete's Groove
-
V6 * 22
148 The Flake f6A ** 101
149 The Flake, Sit-start f6A+ ** 11
150 Flake Out f6B * 16
151 Flake Out, Sit-start f6B+ * 9
152 Local People f7A 4
153 Taming the Flow f6B ** 120
154 Fountain of Youth f5+ *** 271
155 Stolid f4 ** 147
156 Stopcock f4+ * 258
157 Protozoa V0- * 65
158 Amoeba State f5+ * 132
159 The Arête (Eliminate) V3 * 21
160 The Arête f6A+ ** 53
161 Savage Traverse f7A+ * 3
162 The Arête Direct f6C ** 5
163 Ripples f6A *** 174
164 Ripples, Sit-start f6B+ *** 15
165 Razor f6C+ ** 5
166 Razor, Sit-start f7A ** 2
167 Pete's Rib f6C+ *** 46
168 Pete's Rib, Sit-start f7A *** 10
169 Stairway Direct f6A+ * 65
170 Stairway f5+ * 137
171 Touched by God f7A+ ** 3
172 Chocolate Orange f7B ** 8
173 The Crack f5 * 64
174 Janus f7A * 3
175 Quick Step f5 * 149
176 The Mantel Piece f4+ * 169
177 Close Encounters f7A+ ** 4
178 Jimbo's Dyno f7A * 4
179 The Groove f6B+ ** 56
180 The Groove Eliminate f6C * 7
181 Straight and Narrow f6B+ * 11
182 Straight and Narrow, Sit-start f6C+ * 2
183 Diversion f6A * 68
184 Diversion, Sit-start f6C * 4
185 Gorkin Flip f6C * 7
186 The Pod f5 * 133
187 The Pod Escape f4+ * 48
188 Pod Escape Direct f4+ * 26
189 Before Records Began f5+ 7
190 Prior to 1974 f6A+ * 6
191 After 1974 f5 * 14
192 JP Flake f4+ * 15
193 One Hold f5+ 7
194 Many Dates in History f5+ * 9
195 Snatch and Grab f6A * 6
196 Disenchanted f6C+ ** 5
197 Mick Told Me To V1 * 2
  Cheyne House Quarry
199 Wax Work f6B * 29
200 Candle Wax f6B+ ** 33
201 Bees Wax f6B * 1
202 Cortaderia Selloana f3 46
203 Upper Tier Ramp f4 44
204 Blunt Arête f5+ * 43
205 Sharp Arête f4+ * 69
206 Scruffy Corner f4 41
207 Scruffy Crack f5+ 35
208 Scruffy Wall f6A * 34
209 Jurassic Crack f5+ 50
210 Fallen Block Flake f5+ * 18
211 With Four Strong Men f6B+ 13
212 Fallen Block Wall f6A 25
213 Stray Shot f5+ * 30
214 Shot Gun f5+ * 26
215 Long Shot f6A 38
216 Last Shot f6A * 26
217 Crack Shot Left f4 * 40
218 Crack Shot Right f5+ 28
219 Lower Tier Ramp f4+ 28
220 No Pedestal f5+ * 22
221 Cheyne House Ramp f4+ * 26
222 Little Cheyne Wall f4 26
223 Little Cheyne Flake f3 25
  The Nook Quarry Bouldering - Same as Cheyne House Quarry?
225 The Herb Debate V2 18
226 The Banana Question V2 16
227 Finger the Beaver V1 19
228 Mrs Beaver V2 12
Climb name Grade
229 Mr Beaver V5 9
230 Ms Beaver V3 14
231 Sweaty Gym Socks VB 21
232 Squeeze the Beaver V1 16
233 The Ramp to Nowhere V0 17
  The Nook
235 Leering Crack 5a 54
236 Air Kisses 6c * 26
237 My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri-gri 6a 78
238 East Side Story 5c 105
239 Chill Dementia 4c 132
240 Sinister Dexter 6a+ * 67
241 Bring Me Sunshine 6a 89
242 It's a God Awful Small Affair 2a 87
243 Jugs of Joy HVD 20
  Cheyne Cliff
245 Mirror of the Sea 6c * 9
246 Silver-studded Blue 6b * 37
247 Raptor 6c * 17
248 Drowning on Dry Land 6c ** 119
249 Rocket from the Crypt 7a+ ** 72
250 Coralized 7b+ ** 35
251 Heartbeats 7a+ * 24
252 Van Life 7a+ ** 16
253 The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town 6a * 143
254 Dutch Courage 6c * 70
255 Found Under Carnal Knowledge 7a * 16
256 Fireblade 7b+ ** 14
257 Dynomite 7c+ ** 3
258 Pandemonium 7c+ ** 6
259 Poisoned Bamboo 7c ** 1
260 No Turn Unstoned 7a ** 72
261 Cruise Control 6a+ ** 196
262 Road Rage 7b+ *** 190
263 Detonator 7c ** 13
264 Illusions 7c *** 44
265 Yesterday's Dreams 7b+ ** 8
266 Rememberance Sunday 6b+ * 18
267 Italian Eighth 6b+ * 10
268 Threatening Speedos 6c+ 6
269 Pouch of Douglas 5a * 16
270 Bariatric 4a 16
  Dungecroft Quarry
272 Piece of Cake 3b 45
273 Received Wisdom 6a 39
274 Two Sixths 4c 48
275 Room for a Little'un? 5a 49
276 Ladder of Desire 5c 54
277 Splendid Vista 5b 54
278 Black Leather Rock 6a+ 31
279 Bain't no Coastpath 'ere! 6a+ 22
280 Welcome to Las Vegas, Mark 6a 28
281 A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo 5c * 99
282 The Lesser of Two Weevils 6b+ * 40
283 Wind Dog 6b * 53
284 Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh 2c 137
285 Trust me I'm a Doctor 3a 134
286 T-Muffhundred 4c 152
287 Chandelier 6b+ 2
288 I Fell in Love with Uranus 6b 4
289 Sping Nol 4c * 168
290 Julio's Ropeladder 6a+ * 108
291 Crimping the Ephemeral 6c 8
292 Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head 5c * 157
293 Ultrasonic Shoulder 6a+ * 83
294 Death Star Canteen 5c * 90
295 Crazy Old Hippies 4c * 252
296 Crowbar Assassin 6a+ 47
297 Covert Strike 6b * 27
298 The Epicurean Paradox 6b+ * 22
299 Dungecroft Delight 5a * 175
300 The Alpha and The Omega 3c * 223
301 Dirty Bertie 4c 148
302 Doris Does Dungecroft 3a 136
303 Hayabusa 6a 127
304 Fix It Duck 6b 94
305 We Apologise for the Inconvenience 5a 170
306 Gecko Wall 6a 70
307 Wall Lizard 6c+ 64
308 The Cookie Monster 3a 208
309 Make Cookies Not War 4a * 265
310 Rai 6a 98
311 Julia 6a 125
312 The Tooth Clown 5c 7
313 Peace 6a+ 39
314 Love 6c 20
315 Return of the Gecko 6c 20
316 I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk 4c 39
317 Well 'ard 7a+ 17
318 Little Terror 5a * 47
319 Blood on the Rocks 6a * 47
320 The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom 6b+ * 23
321 Viagra Wall 6c+ 5
322 Can You See Scratchy Bottom? 6a+ 35
323 Jaguar Skills 6c+ 6
324 Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite 2a 76
325 Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b * 12
326 Heroes of Swanage 5c 79
327 Heroes of Portland 6b 19
328 Lifesigns 7a+ 6
329 Sex, Lies and Videotape 7a 19
330 Last Ditch Effort 5b 13
331 Buzzin' 6b+ 9
332 Heviz V2 * 13
333 Mr Fudge V2 ** 11
334 Why Not V0- 14
335 Ginger Jihad VB 12
336 Lucky Pants VB 13
337 Cake or Death V1 9
338 Read the Sign 5b 17
339 The Hangover 6a 21
340 Suspiria de Profundis 6b 9
341 Slap and Tickle 6a+ 13

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Adam Perrett and Marti999