UKC

Climbs 375
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

Rik on Small but Perfectly Formed - 6a, Cheyne Wears © Brian H

Crag features

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. 

FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE

24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and BMC have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. The remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked - park here for The Lost Valley and Dungecroft Quarry.

The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park - park here for Beeston Cliff, Godnor South and Far North, Neddyfields Main Cliff, The Nook and Cheyne Cliff (this parking quickly fills up, although the large Cheyne Weares car park is only a couple of minutes walk back up the road). Good footpaths lead to all the cliffs.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
Further landslip has left the 3 most northerly climbs inaccessible. Approach rope is buried, remaining slope looks unstable. Routes affected are Threatening Speedos, Pouch of Douglas, and Bariatric
ssutton - 29/Aug/17
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Godnor South
2 Portland Exclusion Zone 6c 2
3 Leonardo 6a+ 2
4 Mona Lisa 5c 5
5 Whitestones 3c 5
6 Corner Twin S 2
7 Corner Wall HVD 3
8 Slab and Crack HVD 2
9 Sidewalker
-
HS 4a 2
10 Anvil Point
-
HS 4b 2
11 Chimney Break
-
S 1
12 The Good Life 5c ** 15
13 Break-Over Crack E1 5b * 1
14 Enter Shikari 6c 6
15 The Gates
-
VS 4c 1
16 Dusky Corner
-
VD 1
17 Corner Direct
-
HS 4a 1
18 The Oh-No Variant
-
E2 5b 1
  Godnor North
20 Small but Perfectly Formed 6a * 11
21 Big Slab Variant 4c * 13
22 Big Slab
-
VD 1
23 Unnamed (aka Hammerhead) 6a+ * 7
24 Crackers
-
HS 4a 1
25 Crow's Nest Corner
-
VD 4
26 Loving the Moment 6a 1
27 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HS 1
28 Euphemism 6b * 7
29 Prisoners of Gravity 6b * 4
30 Island in the Sun 6a * 8
31 Defiance
-
S 1
32 Private World 6a 6
33 Stress Test 6a 5
  Godnor Far North
35 Remember Blair Peach
-
HVS 4c/5a 1
36 Gi' It Laldy 6c * 5
37 Harpies and Quines 6b+ ** 77
38 Any Day Mike? 7b+ * 14
39 One Day, James 6b+ * 64
40 Pathfinder 6b * 111
41 Snatch Squad HS 4b 5
42 Sidewinder 6a 246
43 Dreamscape 6a * 305
44 Dreamscape Direct 6b * 107
45 Ben 5a * 506
46 Willem 5a * 573
47 Jasper 4c * 700
48 Jody Sunshine 4c * 564
49 Wave Warrior 4c * 716
50 Valerie's Patio 3a 666
51 Garden Party 6a * 185
52 Starbuck 6a 319
53 Last Human 6c 85
54 Tin Man 5c * 318
55 Rubber Truncheon
-
HS 4b 2
56 Tombstone 3c ** 875
57 Where Silence Has Lease 6c ** 192
58 Wedding Daze 6b * 296
59 Future Imperfect 6a+ ** 570
60 Jacob's Ladder 5a ** 827
61 The Truth is Out There 6b ** 416
62 Resistance is Futile 7a+ * 136
63 Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery 6b+ * 81
64 Factor 15 6a+ * 126
65 Net Asset 5c 110
66 Kung Fu Panda 4a * 356
67 Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum 4c * 274
68 Not Worth Bolting VS 4c 2
  Neddyfields Main Cliff
70 Return of the Rice Bandit 6a 31
71 Midday Massacre 5a 65
72 La Fievre Spiteuse 5c 54
73 Lucy's off the Wall 5a 290
74 Nothing's Shocking 6a+ * 247
75 First Contact 6b * 168
76 Brace Yourself Sheila 5a * 399
77 Conquistadors of the Useless 6c * 89
78 Small Object of Desire 6a+ * 125
79 Annapurna, Mon Amour 6a+ 66
80 The Accelerator 7a * 416
81 Nameless (aka The Doppler Effect) 6c * 181
82 Born To Hunt 6c * 62
83 Thick as Thieves 6c 51
84 Three in a Bed 5c * 430
85 Franks Effort HS 4a 7
86 Steve's Wall VS 4b 5
87 I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's 5c 285
88 Felix Navidad 6a+ * 349
89 Infelicity 6a 384
90 Milly Vanilly 6a 295
91 Books Across the Sea 6a 218
92 Puppet Show of Memory 6a 197
93 Inertia
-
VS 4b 8
94 Damn These Electric Sex Pants 6a+ 243
95 Kate 6b+ 91
96 Wonderlust 6b ** 525
97 Intimidation E1 5b 3
98 Prestige Worldwide 6b * 2
99 Shit Route 7a 102
100 Julie Ocean 6c+ ** 291
101 Northern Invasion 7a 39
102 Bigus Dickus 6b 134
103 Lugwiler's Dismal Itch 6c * 188
104 Ecosystem 6b+ * 300
105 Time of the Month 6b+ * 365
106 Inception 5c * 742
107 The Screwfix Escourt Agency 6a+ * 325
108 The Scoop S 4a 19
109 Better Things HS 4a 10
110 Ocean Boulevard 4c * 722
111 Outside Left S 4a 43
112 Crush With Eyeliner E1 5b 15
113 Bundle of Joy 4a * 428
114 Sunday Rake S 4a 38
115 Spider Cracks HVS 5a 10
116 The Wilsonator 6b 43
117 Jobby's Leaving gift 5b 62
118 Joe Stole My Route 5b 48
119 Butterfly Crack S 4a 15
  Neddyfields Bouldering Wall
121 Foreboding f6A 8
122 Hari-kiri f6B+ * 5
123 Psycho f6B+ ** 2
124 Bearing All f6A * 3
125 Great Bear f5+ * 49
126 Little Bear f4+ 87
127 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs f6C+ 2
128 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs, Sit-start f7A+ ** 1
129 Solar Stone f7A+ ** 6
Climb name Grade
130 Indian Summer f6B * 17
131 Totem Pole f4+ ** 192
132 Papoose f6A * 69
133 Wampum f6C * 6
134 Vacillate f6B+ * 29
135 Jimbo's Wall f7B ** 4
136 Jimbo's Right Hand f7B ** 4
137 Pock Mark f7A+ ** 14
138 Prosthesis f6B * 12
139 Prosthesis, Sit-start f6C * 3
140 Colossus f6B+ * 11
141 Colossus, Sit-start f6C+ * 3
142 Stoic Existence f6B+ ** 24
143 Fontanel f7A * 10
144 Pete's Groove
-
V6 * 21
145 The Flake f6A ** 84
146 The Flake, Sit-start f6A+ ** 9
147 Flake Out f6B * 10
148 Flake Out, Sit-start f6B+ * 8
149 Local People f7A 2
150 Taming the Flow f6B ** 115
151 Fountain of Youth f5+ *** 244
152 Stolid f4 ** 107
153 Stopcock f4+ * 218
154 Protozoa V0- * 63
155 Amoeba State f5+ * 114
156 The Arête (Eliminate) V3 * 20
157 The Arête f6A+ ** 43
158 Savage Traverse f7A+ * 2
159 The Arête Direct f6C ** 4
160 Ripples f6A *** 143
161 Ripples, Sit-start f6B+ *** 9
162 Razor f6C+ ** 5
163 Razor, Sit-start f7A ** 1
164 Pete's Rib f6C+ *** 37
165 Pete's Rib, Sit-start f7A *** 6
166 Stairway Direct f6A+ * 63
167 Stairway f5+ * 124
168 Touched by God f7A+ ** 2
169 Chocolate Orange f7B ** 7
170 The Crack f5 * 49
171 Janus f7A * 3
172 Quick Step f5 * 131
173 The Mantel Piece f4+ * 152
174 Close Encounters f7A+ ** 3
175 Jimbo's Dyno f7A * 3
176 The Groove f6B+ ** 51
177 The Groove Eliminate f6C * 3
178 Straight and Narrow f6B+ * 9
179 Straight and Narrow, Sit-start f6C+ * 1
180 Diversion f6A * 57
181 Diversion, Sit-start f6C * 1
182 Gorkin Flip f6C * 5
183 The Pod f5 * 123
184 The Pod Escape f4+ * 43
185 Pod Escape Direct f4+ * 17
186 Before Records Began f5+ 5
187 Prior to 1974 f6A+ * 3
188 After 1974 f5 * 10
189 JP Flake f4+ * 10
190 One Hold f5+ 4
191 Many Dates in History f5+ * 7
192 Snatch and Grab f6A * 2
193 Disenchanted f6C+ ** 4
194 Mick Told Me To V1 * 1
  Cheyne House Quarry
196 Wax Work f6B * 17
197 Candle Wax f6B+ ** 21
198 Cortaderia Selloana f3 25
199 Upper Tier Ramp f4 26
200 Blunt Arête f5+ * 36
201 Sharp Arête f4+ * 52
202 Scruffy Corner f4 26
203 Scruffy Crack f5+ 22
204 Scruffy Wall f6A * 23
205 Jurassic Crack f5+ 42
206 Fallen Block Flake f5+ * 12
207 With Four Strong Men f6B+ 10
208 Fallen Block Wall f6A 17
209 Stray Shot f5+ * 20
210 Shot Gun f5+ * 16
211 Long Shot f6A 25
212 Last Shot f6A * 16
213 Crack Shot Left f4 * 24
214 Crack Shot Right f5+ 16
215 Lower Tier Ramp f4+ 19
216 No Pedestal f5+ * 14
217 Cheyne House Ramp f4+ * 17
218 Little Cheyne Wall f4 20
219 Little Cheyne Flake f3 17
  The Nook Quarry Bouldering - Same as Cheyne House Quarry?
221 The Herb Debate V2 17
222 The Banana Question V2 15
223 Finger the Beaver V1 19
224 Mrs Beaver V2 12
225 Mr Beaver V5 8
226 Ms Beaver V3 13
227 Sweaty Gym Socks VB 20
228 Squeeze the Beaver V1 15
229 The Ramp to Nowhere V0 16
  The Nook
231 Leering Crack 5a 45
232 Air Kisses 6c * 23
233 My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri 6a 65
234 East Side Story 5c 89
235 Chill Dementia 4c 108
236 Sinister Dexter 6a+ * 50
237 Bring Me Sunshine 6a 75
238 It's a God Awful Small Affair 2a 70
239 Jugs of Joy HVD 19
  Cheyne Cliff
241 Mirror of the Sea 6c * 9
242 Silver-studded Blue 6b * 37
243 Raptor 6c * 17
244 Drowning on Dry Land 6c ** 96
245 Rocket from the Crypt 7a+ ** 56
246 Coralized 7b+ ** 24
247 Heartbeats 7a+ * 18
248 Van Life 7a+ ** 9
249 The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town 6a * 121
250 Dutch Courage 6c * 62
251 Found Under Carnal Knowledge 7a * 11
252 Fireblade 7b+ ** 10
253 Dynomite 7c+ ** 3
254 Pandemonium 7c+ ** 4
255 Poisoned Bamboo 7c ** 1
256 No Turn Unstoned 7a ** 50
257 Cruise Control 6a+ ** 144
258 Road Rage 7b+ *** 145
Climb name Grade
259 Detonator 7c ** 6
260 Illusions 7c *** 37
261 Yesterday's Dreams 7b+ ** 8
262 Remerberance Sunday 6b+ * 17
263 Italian Eighth 6b+ * 11
264 Threatening Speedos 6c+ 6
265 Pouch of Douglas 5a * 17
266 Bariatric 4a 17
  Dungecroft Quarry
268 Piece of Cake 3b 25
269 Received Wisdom 6a 25
270 Two Sixths 4c 28
271 Room for a Little'un? 5a 25
272 Ladder of Desire 5c 31
273 Splendid Vista 5b 36
274 Black Leather Rock 6a 19
275 Bain't no Coastpath 'ere! 6a+ 13
276 Welcome to Las Vegas, Mark 6a 18
277 A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo 5c * 84
278 The Lesser of Two Weevils 6b+ * 35
279 Wind Dog 6b * 47
280 Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh 2c 118
281 Trust me I'm a Doctor 3a 107
282 T-Muffhundred 4c 135
283 Chandelier 6b+ 1
284 I Fell in Love with Uranus 6b 1
285 Sping Nol 4c * 151
286 Julio's Ropeladder 6a+ * 98
287 Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head 5c * 143
288 Ultrasonic Shoulder 6a+ * 73
289 Death Star Canteen 5c * 82
290 Crazy Old Hippies 4c * 220
291 Crowbar Assassin 6a+ 44
292 Covert Strike 6b * 24
293 The Epicurean Paradox 6b+ * 16
294 Dungecroft Delight 5a * 140
295 The Alpha and The Omega 3c * 184
296 Dirty Bertie 4c 124
297 Doris Does Dungecroft 3a 115
298 Hayabusa 6a 110
299 Fix It Duck 6b 77
300 We Apologise for the Inconvenience 5a 141
301 Gecko Wall 6a 56
302 Wall Lizard 6c+ 53
303 The Cookie Monster 3a 179
304 Make Cookies Not War 4a * 220
305 Rai 6a 90
306 Julia 6a 113
307 The Tooth Clown 5c 6
308 Peace 6a+ 37
309 Love 6c 20
310 Return of the Gecko 6c 19
311 I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk 4c 34
312 Well 'ard 7a+ 14
313 Little Terror 5a * 40
314 Blood on the Rocks 6a * 42
315 The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom 6b+ * 21
316 Viagra Wall 6c+ 5
317 Can You See Scratchy Bottom? 6a+ 34
318 Jaguar Skills 6c+ 6
319 Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite 2a 66
320 Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b * 11
321 Heroes of Swanage 5c 69
322 Heroes of Portland 6b 19
323 Lifesigns 7a+ 6
324 Sex, Lies and Videotape 7a 18
325 Last Ditch Effort 5b 11
326 Buzzin' 6b+ 7
327 Heviz V2 * 13
328 Mr Fudge V2 ** 11
329 Why Not V0- 14
330 Ginger Jihad VB 12
331 Lucky Pants VB 13
332 Cake or Death V1 9
333 Read The Sign 5b 15
334 The Hangover 6a 19
335 Suspiria de Profundis 6b 7
336 Slap and Tickle 6a+ 11
  The Lost Valley
338 Left-Right Traverse f6A 2
339 Fallen Angel 5a 9
340 Heavens Above 7b 1
341 Marry Me in Vegas? 7b 2
342 Heaven Traverse E2 5b 1
343 Tug on This Jody 7a 15
344 Look West & Find Salvation 7a+ 8
345 Quite Nice Actually 6b+ 8
346 Even Nicer 6b 3
347 Little Pinky 6b+ 9
348 Drilling in the Name 6b+ * 31
349 Robin Crack 5a * 69
350 Birdie Num Num 6c+ 3
351 Clamped Aggression 6b+ * 6
352 Bastard Crack 7a 3
353 Plystalker 7c 3
354 No Chutney on His Ferret 5c 20
355 Chapter and Verse 6a 46
356 Oatsheaf, Chief 5c 25
357 Training for Hubble 6a+ * 44
358 The Stoning of St. Stephen 7b+ ** 10
359 Mono y Mono 7a+ * 2
360 Cadwallader 6b+ * 61
361 Redundancy Crack E1 5b 19
362 The Martyr 7a+ ** 17
363 The Secret Garden 6b+ * 74
364 The Beauty of Decay 6b+ 28
365 Tactical Nuclear Penguin 6b 37
366 Slug
-
E1 5b 4
367 Flake Away 4a 239
368 Portrait of a Lady 6c+ 29
369 Flaked Out 4c 194
370 Echoes of Trad 4c 136
371 Test Pilot 6a * 175
372 Primordial 6a+ * 77
373 Touch the Earth 7a 27
374 Constant Companion 5a 41
375 Promethean Flame 6a 1
376 Lush 5c * 73
377 Head in a Bush 3c 93
378 The Angel from my Nightmare 3a 83
379 Sweet Dreams Are Made of This 3c 209
380 4, 8, 15, 16, 23, 42 4c 196
381 Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite 5a 207
382 Not the Same Mistake Again Kath 5c 190
383 Plastic Tractor 3c 143
384 Dude, Where's My Car? S 17
385 The Lost Domain 6a 27
386 Enjoy My Experience 6c+ 5

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