UKC

Climbs 370
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

Rik on Small but Perfectly Formed - 6a, Cheyne Wears © Brian H

Crag features

FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE

24 September 2014

Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc it is very dangerous.

In addition there has been some slippage at the bottom of the small crag at the far end of Neddyfields main cliff. In particular access to climbs between 'Return of the Rice Bandit' and 'La Fievre Spiteuse' is extremely unstable, and access to the other climbs involves dodgy ground and/or high first bolts.

7 September 2014

The section of coast line near Southwell, and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a number of different cliffs which offer very contrasting styles and grades of climbing on a variety of rock features. Godnor Far North has been developed into a low to mid-grade sport route playground down by the sea and the Neddyfields Main Cliff offers routes in a similar vein. Both these cliffs were mainly developed by members of Basingstoke M.C. and they have become extremely popular although it should be noted that Neddyfields can be over-run by outdoor groups at times. The Lost Valley is an extremely sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with an eerie quiet atmosphere. It also suffers from ivy growth from time to time but this is usually cleared away by the locals especially now that it is been developed as a good hard bouldering venue as well. Dungecroft Quarry is also a sheltered venue containing short bouldery routes on high quality rock and a few easy boulder problems. There is more bouldering on the small vertical wall above the Neddyfields Main crag. The Nook is small sheltered venue on the way to Neddyfields with short routes and boulder problems, Portlands nearest crag to the road! The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff which looks scruffy from a distance but in fact harbours some fine flowstone faces and orange coral. The routes here are mainly for the fitter climber needing ultimate stamina tests. Possible restriction from 1 Feb to 31 August. Check ROCKFAX web site.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for these crags lie on the main road from Easton just before Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (5-6 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park, and also 300m north from Southwell. This track is adjacent to the isolated Cheyne House opposite a an ARC quarry entrance. A good coast path track leads south down from here to the cliff-top.

Lost Valley - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk north (left -looking out) along a ridge for 250m which gives a view into a rocky ravine on the left engulfed in vegetation - this is the Lost Valley. Drop down a steep chute at the far end to gain the right-hand side of the cliff.

Dungecroft Quarry (and the Road Rage Wall) - From the main Cheyne Weares car park walk south (right - looking out) from the car park along a track down into a large disused quarry. The Dungecroft routes are along the quarried wall to the right. The abseil point for the Road Rage Wall is a staple situated on a large boulder on the cliff-top, in front of a pile of waste stone. About 30m north of this is a short block wall set back from the cliff edge where abseil bolts for the Bariatric Buttress can be found.

Cheyne Cliff - From the limited parking spot by Cheyne House descend the coast path then turn left (looking out) along the cliff edge, towards a small quarry. After 10m drop down a steep scree slope (care needed) and trend leftwards (looking out]) down this to reach the edge of the very high main cliff. The Road Rage Wall and Bariatric Buttress are accessible by abseil from Dungecroft Quarry.

Neddyfields Main Cliff and Bouldering Wall - From the limited parking spot walk 200m down the coast path to where the long bouldering wall will appear on the right (2 mins from the road). The Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Use a good steep track which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base, opposite the far end of the bouldering wall.

Godnor Far North - Descend to the beach boulders as for the Neddyfields Main Cliff. Then head right (looking out) for 150m along the beach, past a large outfall pipe (no climbing on the pipe cliff) to where the main crag starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. Do not abseil in or take short cuts due to rare fauna.

The Nook - From the limited parking spot at Neddyfields walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The agreed nesting restriction applies between 'Mirror Of The Sea' to 'Van Life' as well as to the whole of the small recently developed area of crag known as 'The Nook' - look out for on-site signing.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
Further landslip has left the 3 most northerly climbs inaccessible. Approach rope is buried, remaining slope looks unstable. Routes affected are Threatening Speedos, Pouch of Douglas, and Bariatric
ssutton - 29/Aug/17
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Neddyfields Bouldering Wall
2 Foreboding f6A 8
3 Hari-kiri f6B+ * 5
4 Psycho f6B+ ** 2
5 Bearing All f6A * 3
6 Great Bear f5+ * 45
7 Little Bear f4+ 83
8 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs f6C+ 2
9 Shtinkenminkenguffenpuffs, Sit-start f7A+ ** 1
10 Solar Stone f7A+ ** 6
11 Indian Summer f6B * 16
12 Totem Pole f4+ ** 181
13 Papoose f6A * 66
14 Wampum f6C * 6
15 Vacillate f6B+ * 29
16 Jimbo's Wall f7B ** 4
17 Jimbo's Right Hand f7B ** 4
18 Pock Mark f7A+ ** 14
19 Prosthesis f6B * 12
20 Prosthesis, Sit-start f6C * 3
21 Colossus f6B+ * 11
22 Colossus, Sit-start f6C+ * 3
23 Stoic Existence f6B+ ** 23
24 Fontanel f7A * 10
25 The Flake f6A ** 76
26 The Flake, Sit-start f6A+ ** 9
27 Flake Out f6B * 9
28 Flake Out, Sit-start f6B+ * 8
29 Local People f7A 2
30 Pete's Groove V6 * 21
31 Taming the Flow f6B ** 112
32 Fountain of Youth f5+ *** 227
33 Stolid f4 ** 91
34 Stopcock f4+ * 201
35 Protozoa V0- * 62
36 Amoeba State f5+ * 107
37 The Arete (eliminate version) V3 * 20
38 The Arete f6A+ ** 38
39 Savage Traverse f7A+ * 2
40 The Arete Direct f6C ** 2
41 Ripples f6A *** 129
42 Ripples, Sit-start f6B+ *** 8
43 Razor f6C+ ** 5
44 Razor, Sit-start f7A ** 1
45 Pete's Rib f6C+ *** 36
46 Pete's Rib, Sit-start f7A *** 2
47 Stairway Direct f6A+ * 59
48 Stairway f5+ * 119
49 Touched by God f7A+ ** 2
50 Chocolate Orange f7B ** 7
51 The Crack f5 * 46
52 Janus f7A * 3
53 Quick Step f5 * 127
54 The Mantel Piece f4+ * 146
55 Close Encounters f7A+ ** 3
56 Jimbo's Dyno f7A * 3
57 The Groove f6B+ ** 50
58 The Groove Eliminate f6C * 3
59 Straight and Narrow f6B+ * 9
60 Straight and Narrow, Sit-start f6C+ * 1
61 Diversion f6A * 56
62 Diversion, Sit-start f6C * 1
63 Gorkin Flip f6C * 4
64 The Pod f5 * 120
65 The pod escape f4+ * 41
66 Pod Escape Direct f4+ * 14
67 Before Records Began f5+ 5
68 Prior to 1974 f6A+ * 3
69 After 1974 f5 * 7
70 JP Flake f4+ * 8
71 One Hold f5+ 4
72 Many Dates in History f5+ * 5
73 Snatch and Grab f6A * 2
74 Disenchanted f6C+ ** 4
75 Mick told me to V1 * 1
  Cheyne House Quarry
77 Wax Work f6B * 15
78 Candle Wax f6B+ ** 17
79 Cortaderia Selloana f3 18
80 Upper Tier Ramp f4 18
81 Blunt Arete f5+ * 33
82 Sharp Arete f4+ * 23
83 Scruffy Corner f4 21
84 Scruffy Crack f5+ 20
85 Scruffy Wall f6A * 17
86 Jurassic Crack f5+ 39
87 Fallen Block Flake f5+ * 12
88 With Four Strong Men f6B+ 7
89 Fallen Block Wall f6A 13
90 Stray Shot f5+ * 19
91 Shot Gun f5+ * 15
92 Long Shot f6A 19
93 Last Shot f6A * 13
94 Crack Shot Left f4 * 19
95 Crack Shot Right f5+ 14
96 Lower Tier Ramp f4+ 16
97 No Pedestal f5+ * 14
98 Cheyne House Ramp f4+ * 15
99 Little Cheyne Wall f4 15
100 Little Cheyne Flake f3 16
  Godnor South
102 Portland Exclusion Zone 6c 2
103 Leonardo 6a+ 2
104 Mona Lisa 5c 5
105 Whitestones 3c 5
106 Corner Twin S 2
107 Corner Wall HVD 3
108 Slab and Crack HVD 2
109 Sidewalker
-
HS 4a 2
110 Anvil Point
-
HS 4b 2
111 Chimney Break
-
S 1
112 The Good Life 5c ** 15
113 Breakover Crack Direct E1 5b * 1
114 Enter Shakari 6c 6
115 The Gates
-
VS 4c 1
116 Dusky Corner
-
VD 1
117 Corner Direct
-
HS 4a 1
118 The Oh-No Variant
-
E2 5b 1
  Godnor North
120 Small but Perfectly Formed 6a * 11
121 Big Slab Variant 4c * 11
122 Big Slab
-
VD 1
123 Unnamed (aka Hammerhead) 6a+ * 6
124 Crackers
-
HS 4a 1
125 Crow's Nest Corner
-
VD 4
126 Loving the Moment 6a 1
127 Crow's Nest Direct
-
HS 1
Climb name Grade
128 Euphemism 6b * 6
129 Prisoners Of Gravity 6b * 4
130 Island In The Sun 6a * 8
131 Defiance
-
S 1
132 Private World 6a 6
133 Stress Test 6a 5
  Godnor far North
135 Remember Blair Peach
-
HVS 4c/5a 1
136 Gi' It Laldy 6c * 5
137 Harpies and Quines 6b+ ** 71
138 Any Day Mike? 7b+ * 13
139 One Day, James 6b+ * 60
140 Pathfinder 6b * 104
141 Snatch Squad HS 4b 5
142 Sidewinder 6a 237
143 Dreamscape 6a * 294
144 Dreamscape Direct 6b * 97
145 Ben 5a * 474
146 Willem 5a * 539
147 Jasper 4c * 664
148 Jody Sunshine 4c * 527
149 Wave Warrior 4c * 668
150 Valerie's Patio 3a 632
151 Garden Party 6a * 170
152 Starbuck 6a 305
153 Last Human 6c 75
154 Tin Man 5c * 292
155 Rubber Truncheon
-
HS 4b 2
156 Tombstone 3c ** 820
157 Where Silence Has Lease 6c ** 155
158 Wedding Daze 6b * 263
159 Future Imperfect 6a+ ** 517
160 Jacob's Ladder 5a ** 768
161 The Truth is Out There 6b ** 379
162 Resistance is Futile 7a+ * 118
163 Car Parts, Bottles and Cutlery 6b+ * 76
164 Factor 15 6a+ * 114
165 Net Asset 5c 100
166 Kung Fu Panda 4a * 313
167 Nonnie and the Pulp Fiction Tantrum 4c * 253
168 Not Worth Bolting VS 4c 2
  Neddyfields Main Cliff
170 Return of the Rice Bandit 6a 30
171 Midday Massacre 5a 64
172 La Fievre Spiteuse 5c 53
173 Lucy's off the Wall 5a 283
174 Nothing's Shocking 6a+ * 243
175 First Contact 6b * 167
176 Brace Yourself Sheila 5a * 382
177 Conquistadors of the Useless 6c * 81
178 Small Object of Desire 6a+ * 113
179 Annapurna, Mon Amour 6a+ 59
180 The Accelerator 7a * 379
181 Nameless (aka The Doppler Effect) 6c * 176
182 Born To Hunt 6c * 57
183 Thick as Thieves 6c 50
184 Franks Effort HS 4a 7
185 Three in a Bed 5c * 391
186 Steve's Wall VS 4b 5
187 I wish I was in Steve's Shoe's 5c 248
188 Felix Navidad 6a+ * 297
189 Infelicity 6a 327
190 Milly Vanilly 6a 256
191 Books Across the Sea 6a 192
192 Puppet Show of Memory 6a 175
193 Inertia
-
VS 4b/c 8
194 Damn These Electric Sex Pants 6a+ 202
195 Kate 6b+ 87
196 Wonderlust 6b ** 458
197 Intimidation E1 5b 3
198 Shit Route 7a 81
199 Julie Ocean 6c+ ** 274
200 Northern Invasion 7a 34
201 Bigus Dickus 6b 103
202 Lugwiler's Dismal Itch 6c * 174
203 Ecosystem 6b+ * 263
204 Time of the Month 6b+ * 325
205 Inception 5c * 696
206 The Screwfix Escourt Agency 6a+ * 302
207 The Scoop S 4a 17
208 Better Things HS 4a 8
209 Ocean Boulevard 4c * 663
210 Outside Left S 4a 38
211 Bundle of Joy 4a * 371
212 Crush With Eyeliner E1 5b 15
213 Sunday Rake S 4a 31
214 Spider Cracks HVS 5a 8
215 The Wilsonator 6b 38
216 Jobby's Leaving gift 5b 49
217 Joe Stole My Route 5b 36
218 Butterfly Crack S 4a 13
  The Nook Quarry Bouldering - Same as Cheyne House Quarry?
220 Sharpe Arete V0 21
221 The Herb Debate V2 17
222 The Banana Question V2 15
223 Finger the Beaver V1 19
224 Mrs Beaver V2 12
225 Mr Beaver V5 8
226 Ms Beaver V3 13
227 Sweaty Gym Socks VB 20
228 Squeeze the Beaver V1 15
229 The Ramp to Nowhere V0 16
  The Nook
231 Leering Crack 5a 39
232 Air Kisses 6c * 21
233 My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri 6a 94
234 East Side Story 5c 97
235 Chill Dementia 4c 127
236 Sinister Dexter 6a+ * 47
237 Bring Me Sunshine 6a 69
238 Its a God Awful Small Affair 2a 99
239 Jugs of Joy HVD 18
  Cheyne Cliff
241 Mirror of the Sea 6c * 8
242 Silver-studded Blue 6b * 36
243 Raptor 6c * 16
244 Drowning on Dry Land 6c ** 88
245 Rocket from the Crypt 7a+ ** 53
246 Coralized 7b+ ** 23
247 Heartbeats 7a+ * 16
248 Van Life 7a+ ** 9
249 The Pigskin Bus Pulls Into Tuna Town 6a * 116
250 Dutch Courage 6c * 55
251 Found Under Carnal Knowledge 7a * 10
252 Fireblade 7b+ ** 6
253 Dynomite 7c+ ** 3
254 Pandemonium 7c+ ** 3
Climb name Grade
255 Poisoned Bamboo 7c ** 1
256 No Turn Unstoned 7a ** 42
257 Cruise Control 6a+ ** 129
258 Road Rage 7b+ *** 130
259 Detonator 7c ** 6
260 Illusions 7c *** 26
261 Yesterday's Dreams 7b+ ** 7
262 Remerberance Sunday 6b+ * 13
263 Italian Eighth 6b+ * 11
264 Threatening Speedos 6c+ 6
265 Pouch of Douglas 5a * 17
266 Bariatric 4a 17
  Dungecroft Quarry
268 Ladder of Desire 5c 11
269 Splendid Vista 5b 12
270 A Ying and a Yang and a Yippiedeedoo 5c * 73
271 The Lesser of Two Weevils 6b+ * 31
272 Wind Dog 6b * 42
273 Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh 2c 106
274 Trust me I'm a Doctor 3a 97
275 T-Muffhundred 4c 116
276 Sping Nol 4c * 139
277 Julio's Ropeladder 6a+ * 86
278 Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head 5c * 131
279 Ultrasonic Shoulder 6a+ * 64
280 Death Star Canteen 5c * 74
281 Crazy Old Hippies 4c * 204
282 Crowbar Assassin 6a+ 39
283 Covert Strike 6b * 20
284 The Epicurean Paradox 6b+ * 15
285 Dungecroft Delight 5a * 129
286 The Alpha and The Omega 3c * 161
287 Dirty Bertie 4c 106
288 Doris Does Dungecroft 3a 97
289 Hayabusa 6a 93
290 Fix It Duck 6b 64
291 We Apologise for the Inconvenience 5a 124
292 Gecko Wall 6a 50
293 Wall Lizard 6c+ 46
294 The Cookie Monster 3a 155
295 Make Cookies Not War 4a * 192
296 Rai 6a 83
297 Julia 6a 102
298 The Tooth Clown 5c 2
299 Peace 6a+ 33
300 Love 6c 18
301 Return of the Gecko 6c 18
302 I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk 4c 24
303 Well'Ard 7a+ 13
304 Little Terror 5a * 37
305 Blood on the Rocks 6a * 35
306 The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom 6b+ * 19
307 Viagra Wall 6c+ 4
308 Can You See Scratchy Bottom? 6a+ 28
309 Dad Gets Another Monkey Bite 2a 55
310 Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b * 9
311 Heroes of Swanage 5c 62
312 Heroes of Portland 6b 15
313 Lifesigns 7a+ 4
314 Sex, Lies and Videotape 7a 12
315 Last Ditch Effort 5b 9
316 Buzzin' 6b+ 6
317 Heviz V2 * 10
318 Mr Fudge V2 ** 10
319 Why Not V0- 11
320 Ginger Jihad VB 9
321 Lucky Pants VB 10
322 Cake or Death V1 8
323 Read The Sign 5b 14
324 The Hangover 6a 18
325 Suspiria de Profundis 6b 6
326 Slap and Tickle 6a+ 9
  The Lost Valley
328 Fallen Angel 5a 9
329 Heavens Above 7b 1
330 Marry Me in Vegas? 7b 2
331 Heaven Traverse E2 5b 1
332 Tug on This Jody 7a 13
333 Look West & Find Salvation 7a+ 8
334 Quite Nice Actually 6b+ 8
335 Even Nicer 6b 3
336 Little Pinky 6b+ 9
337 Drilling in the Name 6b+ * 30
338 Robin Crack 5a * 65
339 Birdie Num Num 6c+ 3
340 Clamped Aggression 6b+ * 6
341 Back Door to Heaven f6B 1
342 Return to Sender f6C 1
343 Heaven Sent f7A 1
344 Straight to Heaven f7A+ 1
345 Garden Force f5 6
346 Bastard Crack 7a 3
347 Plystalker 7c 3
348 No Chutney on His Ferret 5c 19
349 LR Traverse f6A 2
350 Chapter and Verse 6a 45
351 Oatsheaf, Chief 5c 23
352 Training for Hubble 6a+ * 43
353 The Stoning of St. Stephen 7b+ ** 10
354 Mono y Mono 7a+ * 2
355 Cadwallader 6b+ * 60
356 Redundancy Crack E1 5b 18
357 The Martyr 7a+ ** 17
358 The Secret Garden 6b+ * 68
359 The Beauty of Decay 6b+ 24
360 Tactical Nuclear Penguin 6b 35
361 Slug
-
E1 5b 4
362 Flake Away 4a 213
363 Portrait of a Lady 6c+ 27
364 Flaked Out 4c 173
365 Echoes Of Trad 4c 120
366 Test Pilot 6a * 167
367 Primordial 6a+ * 69
368 Touch The Earth 7a 24
369 Constant Companion 5a 39
370 Promethean Flame 6a 1
371 The Lost Domain 6a 25
372 Lush 5c * 62
373 Head in a Bush 3c 83
374 The Angel from my Nightmare 3a 71
375 Sweet Dreams Are Made of This 3c 186
376 4, 8, 15, 16, 23, 42 4c 179
377 Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite 5a 187
378 Not the Same Mistake Again Kath 5c 172
379 Plastic Tractor 3c 128
380 Dude, Where's My Car? S 16
381 Enjoy My Experience 6c+ 4

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