Climbs 22
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 270m a.s.l
Faces W

Simon Brearley © Andy Wadeson

Crag features

Waiting for the Fall.The FRCC guide shows the wrong start.The route starts on the extreme lt side of the slab left of the flake ,hence the name .It is short on gear and holds for a long way and is more like E2 5b than VS.There is an easier start to the Rt of the flake .W.E.Pattison 1ST Ascentionist.

Never had any problem finding this crag even with the bracken high. Take approx 250 double paces after the gate, turn left, follow trods up and over the col, head down and turn right. You pass the right part of the crag first before the larger left buttress comes into view.
Simon2005 - 26/Jun/14
Couldn't find it, and we didn't have a map so relied on the guidebook description of going for 400m! Looked everywhere but obviously in the wrong place! Would agree, after looking on the map that 100m up the track thats right through the gate, is probably the best way. Went to Hare Crag anyway which was great.
eldre070 - 25/May/14
Hidden by bracken in late summer and autumn but easy to find in spring. As per guidebook, go up to the gate but turn left straight up the hill about 100m after the gate instead of 400 - walk straight up until you get to a small col, go over and you'll see the lower crag ahead on the other side of a dip. Very little gear on most routes I tried but they were also over-graded.
ashaughnessy - 27/May/13
Quite a good bet for a busy weekend, usually pretty quiet. Faces the sun,quick drying with good friction. Mostly slabby routes with flared cracks, so protection is a bit tricky, along with belays but with a good hunt around you can usually find something. Lower crag is about 30 metres high and the Upper around 60 metres. Can be difficult to find trailing through the bracken. Best to bring a machete.
dave wearing - 21/Aug/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Buttress
2 Approach Rib M 44
3 Nanny Cracks
MS 31
4 Kid's Stuff
D 19
5 Bottle Wall VS 4b * 44
6 Quartz Icicle VS 4c * 37
7 Hors D'Oeuvres MVS 4c 18
8 Monolith Slab
MS 16
Climb name Grade
9 Waiting For the Fall HVS 5a 11
  Right Buttress
11 Gruff stuff
HS 26
12 Billy the Kid VS 4b 35
13 Goatee Beard
MS 30
14 Goat Rib
VD 42
15 Billy Goat Cracks
VD 45
16 Billy Goat Arete
M 23
Climb name Grade
17 The Chytrid Kid
VD 2
18 Kid You Not MVS 4a * 12
19 Bash Street kids HVD * 12
20 Nanny Flakes
D 13
21 Bill Whizz
D 16
22 Short Stuff
VD 5
23 End Slab
S 21
24 A Crack-in' End S 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer PeteC