UKC

Climbs 476
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 71m a.s.l
Faces SE

Leer of beethoven © James O'Neil

Crag features

The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking out towards the Purbecks across Weymouth Bay. The crag is in fact an old railway cutting which has left several contrasting walls rising directly from a flat clear base. Although mainly quarried the climbs are highly varied on good clean vertical rock giving routes which need lots of finger strength and technique. It is a superb morning venue (often too hot in the summer) with routes to suit all grades of climber from VS to 8a. There is also a beginners sector especially set up for groups and individuals to cut their teeth on. However the best quality routes are the numerous cracking powerful test-pieces which are attractive enough to encourage many climbers to dog beyond their capabilities. The variety of climbing has been added to recently with some quality bouldering at the New Cuttings from V0 to a mega hard V12. Some of these problems can be high so bring a bouldering mat. Climbs at 'the Ditch' are included for historical reasons only: the Ditch was excavated during the winter of 2008/ 2009.

Approach notes

The Cuttings is 5 minutes from the road behind the terraced houses in Easton. Park in the main street near the Portland Museum. The guide books will say to park near the Mermaid Inn however this pub is no longer there, it has been replaced by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens. Unfortunately, at time of writing, no sign hangs outside the Tea Gardens Property. It is 195 Wakeham (DT5 1HS). Alternatively park down the road, around the bend from the museum, in Church Ope Car Park, this is a free car park. This is better in that you won't annoy the house owners of Easton so much. The drawback is that it is secluded and ripe for car theft so leave an empty car. Just by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens, next to the bridge, a track leads east for 30m toward waste ground alongside houses. Then a small track ducks through some bushes to follow a wide dirt track up an incline for 200m to a summit. Another track leads rightwards to reach the Main Cuttings above a covered pipeline. The shorter New Cuttings is just to the right (looking out). Another more direct approach (with no uphill bit for the lazy boulderers) is to follow a track leading directly east out of the back of the Mermaid Tea Gardens car park which leads to the coast path running past the New Cuttings. The Ditch - Sadly this venue(and its routes) are no more!

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)
Swanage and Portland (1995)

Out of print:
Great climbs, However do agree with other comments, grades are slightly lower than I feel they should be. Best climb of the year so far, (it is only the first of January 2014). Great day though, great fun.
TerryHoward - 01/Jan/14
Great crag and boulder field, drys out super quick so makes the perfect winter bouldering location! :-)
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Jan/13
The Ditch no longer exists.
Richard Horn - 15/Dec/08
Excellent crag. Lots and lots of reachy, technical test pieces. However, not really worth visiting if you can't climb F7a or harder. Fred
FredMead - 06/Mar/06
The guide is fantastic - congratulations! One point on the Cuttings though. Page 165, route 17 "Three Fingers" is surely not a grade 4. Two of us climbed it and thought it a polished 5+. The third finger has of course fallen off as your photo shows and I wonder if it has been regraded since then. In your 2003 miniguide you put it at 6A rather than 4 which may be mistake (or is it?) but its certainly not 4, - which might cause problems where people are trying to up their grade in an area where except at the short worn out left hand end, there are few lower grades to try out. Hope this is useful.
marcus - 22/Aug/05
Agree, Blacknor is much better for novices, some of these routes are so pollished as to be at least a grade harder. My girlfriend thinks 2 grades!
Russ - 21/Aug/04
I was taken down to the Cuttings for my first bit of sport climbing and was pointed to the \'easy\' grades up one end (2 to 4+). Unfortunately these routes are now highly polished and I\'m sure that most people are likely to find them a great deal more difficult than their grade may suggest.
John Wellbelove - 22/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cuttings Main Cliff
2 Eat, Stick and Die 2a 392
3 We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel 3a 457
4 Choose Your Own Adventure 5c * 23
5 Cheese and Pickle 4c 225
6 Parsnip Soup 5a 159
7 Corporal Punishment 5a 321
8 On Manoeuvres 3a 410
9 Arc Angel 2c 318
10 Charity Work Mate 3a 356
11 Magical Misty Tour 3c 366
12 Bonsai 3c 413
13 Sting in the Tail 5c 372
14 Baron's Revenge 3c 215
15 Chicken Boy 3c 164
16 Tantrums and Tiaras 3c 221
17 Sean 4c 9
18 100 Sunny Days 3a 398
19 Juggernaut 5a 507
20 Rock Lobster 4c 508
21 Amazonia 4c * 868
22 The Great Hamburger Disaster 4c * 961
23 Definitely Maybe 6a+ * 484
24 Little Chef 5c * 777
25 Little Sod 6b * 294
26 The Sod 5c * 811
27 Lup Dup 6a+ * 82
28 Mindmeld 7a+ * 296
29 Sign of the Vulcan 7b+ ** 102
30 Hillman the Hunter 6b+ * 171
31 Hole in the Wall E1 5c 2
32 Flying Peach 6b * 42
33 Grapefruit takes a Whipper 6a+ * 69
34 Princess and the Pea 6b+ 19
35 Pillow Talk 6c 23
36 Died in Your Arms 6c ** 4
37 The Cutting Edge 6c+ *** 479
38 Dumbfounded 7b * 196
39 Chalkie and the Hex 5 5c ** 933
40 The Ramp 5a * 793
41 Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention 7b 5
42 Rusty Chubblock Needs Oil of Lubrication 7c * 24
43 Evening Mistress 6b * 250
44 Men Behaving Badly 7a+ * 31
45 Amen Corner 5a ** 803
46 Mousefolk 6c * 280
47 Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth 6b ** 785
48 Jam 4c ** 1043
49 The Mantelist 6b 14
50 Chips with Everything 5a * 979
Climb name Grade
51 Quality Family Day 4c ** 898
52 Dignity 5c 17
53 True Love 6b+ 41
54 Bridget Riley 6b+ ** 16
55 The Mind Terrorist 7c+ ** 10
56 Knockout Punch 7b+ * 10
57 Spicer E2 5c * 5
58 Levitation By Proxy 6c * 76
59 That Chill Divine E2 6a 1
60 Finesse 7a 37
61 Hidden Treasure 6a * 243
62 Kestrel VS 4c 6
63 Looking for Love 6b * 19
64 Blowing the Gimp 7a+ * 59
65 The Sears Tower 7b+ * 17
66 The Holy Hand Grenade 7a ** 252
67 Brief Encounter 6b ** 565
68 Infernal Din 7b+ *** 92
69 European Flavour 6b ** 419
70 Gourmet 6a 10
71 Europe Endless 6b+ ** 122
72 The Breathing Method 8a *** 52
73 Hall of Mirrors 7c *** 216
74 Want Out 7b *** 165
75 New Saladin 6c ** 376
76 Hurricane on a Millpond 7c+ ** 6
77 Consommé 6a+ ** 1088
78 Marti Chef 7b * 4
79 Haute Cuisine 7a ** 284
80 The Mouth Waters 7a+ ** 136
81 Two Fingers 6a ** 847
82 Three Fingers 6a * 730
83 So Long, Marianne 6c 7
84 Bob Hunkhouse f7A+ * 12
85 Opus 5a * 793
86 Rusty the Red Neck TakesOne for the Team 6a+ * 437
87 Perihelion 6b ** 290
88 Disobedience Contest 6b ** 212
89 Live is Life 6b * 82
90 The Potting Shed 6a * 344
91 Rules is Rules 6b+ 51
92 Old Buffer 6b * 183
93 Live by the Sword 7a+ ** 284
94 Another Notch in the Gun 6b ** 563
95 Figgy Dropwise 6c+ * 76
96 For Michèle 6a 46
97 Dusty Fred's Winter Collection 6c 33
98 Aperitif 5c 140
99 Ectomorph 6a * 218
100 Unknown Arete 7a+ 28
Climb name Grade
101 The Bournemouth Flyer 6b * 168
102 Hors d'Oeuvres
-
E1 5c 3
103 Nightmare Scenario 7c ** 98
104 Modern Nightmare 7a ** 187
105 Bad Dream
-
E4 6a 2
106 Fighting Torque 8a ** 89
107 Under Duress 7c+ ** 30
108 Shiver Me Timbers 7a * 80
109 Weird Shit, Keep Drilling 6b+ ** 151
  The Bower
111 Whispering Gallery 2a 287
112 Queen of the New Year 2c 304
113 Suntrap 3a 405
114 The Bumper Fun Book 4a * 428
115 Tinkerbell 6a * 376
116 Far From The Madding Crowd 5c * 311
117 Six Finger Exercise 6b+ * 240
118 Godbeams 4a * 478
119 Ladybower 3a * 208
120 All Bowered Out 6a * 19
  Sunlovers Slab
122 Come on Eileen 6a+ * 42
123 Grand Tour 6a+ * 17
124 Boys Will Be Girls 6c+ * 27
125 Shockwave 5c * 58
126 Sunlover 5a * 61
127 The Portland Crowd 5a * 70
  The Dell - The Cuttings Lower Tier (Left)
129 Sjambok the Skelem 4c 46
130 The Naughty Corner 4a 61
131 West of Vanity Fare 6b 30
132 Hot Flush E1 5c 9
133 Xerdna VS 4c 18
134 Hot Fuzz 5c 33
135 Don't Bring Your Mum 2a 22
  The Bottom Deckio - The Cuttings Lower Tier (Right)
137 Voices in the Bower 3a 381
138 Up the Junction 6b * 152
139 Round the Bend 6b * 159
140 Winter Sun 6a * 494
141 Time Out of Mind 5a 518
142 Voices in the Mind 5c * 77
  The Ditch
144 Rock Logs 6b+ 3
145 Gold Dust 7b 2
146 Ditch the Bitch 7a 4
147 Pitch in the Ditch 6a+ 3
148 The Dump Pump 6a 6
149 This Shit's Something 6c+ 1

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