UKC

Climbs 99
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 850m a.s.l
Faces SE

Solo climber at the top of Escalator © BD

Crag features

Superb winter and summer crag over looking the spectacular Loch A'an basin.
Southeasterly aspect means lots ice can build up rapidly, but also means it melts as quickly.
Avalanche City after fresh snow/thaw.
Tends to be wet and have a large snow patch at the base in summer. Rock routes graded for the wet.

Must Dos :
Hell's Lum (III)
Clean Sweep (VS)
Salamander (HVS)
Brimstone Grooves (IV,4)



Routes are described from right to left, as in the current Cairngorms guide.

Approach notes

Free access all year

Cairngorm Blizzards should not be underestimated.
This is a serious place to get lost in
- many people do - don't forget a map & compass when crossing the Plateau

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Escalator Slabs
2 Highway to Hell E2 5b 1
3 Sneer (Summer) VD * 4
4 Sneer
-
II/III 19
5 Squirk
-
VD  
6 Road to Nowhere
-
HVS 5a 2
7 Two Little Devils E1 5c * 1
8 Dust Devils
-
E4 6b  
9 The Escalator
-
M * 6
10 The Escalator (Winter)
-
II/III * 65
  Right Hand Slabs
12 The Devil's Alternative
-
E1 5a *** 28
13 The Devil's Alternative (Winter) IV 4 ** 1
14 Paranormal
-
E1 5b ** 1
15 Auld Nick
-
S * 87
16 Idle Hands
-
VS 4c 1
17 Auld Nick (Winter)
-
III 16
18 Devil Dancer
-
HVS 5a * 1
19 What the Hell!
-
E3 6b  
20 Beelzebub
-
E1 5c 1
21 Big De'il
-
VS 4c * 7
22 Kiwi Slabs
-
IV 3 * 9
23 Kiwi Gully
-
III 4 24
  Frontal Face
25 The Wee Devil
-
IV 4 9
26 Devil's Delight
-
HS * 2
27 Devil's Delight
-
V 5 *** 20
28 The Underworld
-
VS 4c 1
29 The Underworld (winter)
-
V 5 * 2
30 Prince of Darkness E1 5b ** 9
31 Prince of Darkness Direct
-
E2 5b **  
32 The Omen
-
HVS 5a * 3
33 The Omen (Direct Variation)
-
E3 6a  
34 The Omen (Variation)
-
E1 5b  
35 Second Sight
-
HVS 5a ** 1
36 Devilicious
-
E5 6a  
Climb name Grade
37 The Clean Sweep
-
VS 4c *** 237
38 The Clean Sweep (Winter)
-
VI 7  
39 Damien
-
E1 5b * 1
40 Hell Fire Corner
-
VS 4b * 8
41 Hell Fire Corner (winter) VI 7 * 5
42 Cruella de Vil
-
E1 5b 1
43 Cruella de Vil (Variation)
-
E2 5b  
44 The Bats, The Bats
-
HVS 5a ** 3
45 The Vacuum S * 1
46 Salamander
-
HVS 5a *** 19
47 Salamander (Winter)
-
V 4 * 18
48 Brimstone Groove (summer) S * 1
49 Brimstone Groove
-
IV 3 22
50 Towering Inferno
-
HS 5
51 Towering Inferno (Original)
-
VS 4c 1
52 Towering Inferno (Winter)
-
VI 5 * 1
53 Nobody's Fault
-
IV 6 6
54 Deep Cut Chimney (Summer)
-
VD * 12
55 Deep Cut Chimney
-
IV 5 *** 224
56 Devil's Advocate E4 6a * 3
  Grey Buttress
58 Lion of Judah VS * 3
59 The Serpent
-
E3 5c *  
60 Hell's Lump
-
VS 4c ** 41
61 Hell's Lump (Winter)
-
V 6  
62 Hell's Lump Direct (Winter)
-
VII 7  
63 Hell's Lump Evil Spirits Variation (Winter)
-
VII 8  
64 Evil Spirits
-
E2 5c ** 9
65 Unleashing Hell
-
E4 6a  
66 The Exorcist
-
HVS 5b ** 8
67 The Exorcist VIII 8 ** 1
68 Good Intentions VS * 11
69 Good Intentions (Winter)
-
VII 7  
70 Drop Out
-
E2 5b  
71 To Hell and Back E10 6c ***  
72 Chariots of Fire E4 ** 8
Climb name Grade
73 The Pothole
-
VD 1
74 The Pothole (Winter)
-
III * 1
  Hell's Lum Sector
76 Hell's Lum (summer)
-
VD 1
77 Hell's Lum III *** 149
78 The Chancer
-
V 6 * 23
79 Boke
-
IV 4 1
80 The Bengal Lancer
-
HVS 5a  
81 Styx
-
VS 4c * 2
82 Firewater
-
VS 4b * 1
83 Spin
-
HS  
84 Arc of a Diver
-
E2 5c ** 1
85 Puke VD * 1
86 Puke (Winter)
-
III  
87 The Gullet
-
III 7
88 Sic
-
VD  
89 Sic (Winter)
-
III 1
90 Raw Mince
-
VD  
  Glasnost Slab
92 Independence
-
E1 5b 2
93 Perestroika E2 5c * 2
94 Glasnost
-
VS 5a * 1
95 Anarchy
-
VS 4c * 1
  Lower Slab
97 Firestone E7 6b ** 4
98 Cerberus E3 5c 2
99 Hell's Gate
-
HVS 4c 1
100 Noddy
-
S  
101 Firestarter
-
E3 6a  
102 Mars E1 5b * 3
103 Pluto E1 5a * 5
104 Goofey
-
VS 4c 1
105 Purgatory Wall S 4a 1
106 Purgatory Wall Variation Start HS 5a 1

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