Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 101
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 850m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Solo climber at the top of Escalator © BD

Crag features

Superb winter and summer crag over looking the spectacular Loch A'an basin.
Southeasterly aspect means lots ice can build up rapidly, but also means it melts as quickly.
Avalanche City after fresh snow/thaw.
Tends to be wet and have a large snow patch at the base in summer. Rock routes graded for the wet.

Must Dos :
Hell's Lum (III)
Clean Sweep (VS)
Salamander (HVS)
Brimstone Grooves (IV,4)



Routes are described from right to left, as in the current Cairngorms guide.

Approach notes

Free access all year

Cairngorm Blizzards should not be underestimated.
This is a serious place to get lost in
- many people do - don't forget a map & compass when crossing the Plateau

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Escalator Slabs
2 Highway to Hell E2 5b 1
3 Sneer (Summer) VD * 6
4 Sneer III 22
5 Squirk
-
VD  
6 Road to Nowhere
-
HVS 5a 2
7 Two Little Devils E1 5c * 1
8 Dust Devils
-
E4 6b  
9 The Escalator
-
M * 6
10 The Escalator (Winter) II 68
  Right Hand Slabs
12 The Devil's Alternative
-
E1 5a *** 30
13 The Devil's Alternative (Winter) IV 4 ** 1
14 Paranormal
-
E1 5b ** 1
15 Auld Nick
-
S * 89
16 Idle Hands
-
VS 4c 1
17 Auld Nick (Winter) III 16
18 Devil Dancer
-
HVS 5a * 1
19 What the Hell!
-
E3 6b  
20 Beelzebub
-
E1 5c 1
21 Big De'il
-
VS 4c * 7
22 Kiwi Slabs IV 3 9
23 Kiwi Gully IV 4 26
  Frontal Face
25 The Wee Devil IV 4 9
26 Devil's Delight
-
HS * 2
27 Devil's Delight V 5 22
28 The Underworld
-
VS 4c 1
29 The Underworld (winter)
-
V 5 * 2
30 Prince of Darkness E1 5b ** 9
31 Prince of Darkness Direct
-
E2 5b **  
32 The Omen
-
HVS 5a * 3
33 The Omen (Direct Variation)
-
E3 6a  
34 The Omen (Variation)
-
E1 5b  
35 Second Sight
-
HVS 5a ** 1
36 Devilicious
-
E5 6a  
37 Sooty's Revenge E2 5b **  
Climb name Grade
38 The Clean Sweep
-
VS 4c *** 253
39 The Clean Sweep (Winter)
-
VI 7  
40 Damien
-
E1 5b * 1
41 Hell Fire Corner
-
VS 4b * 10
42 Hell Fire Corner (winter) VI 7 * 7
43 Cruella de Vil
-
E1 5b 1
44 Cruella de Vil (Variation)
-
E2 5b  
45 The Bats, The Bats
-
HVS 5a ** 3
46 The Vacuum S * 1
47 Salamander
-
HVS 5a *** 21
48 Salamander (Winter) V 5 18
49 Brimstone Groove (summer) S * 1
50 Brimstone Groove IV 4 23
51 Towering Inferno
-
HS 5
52 Towering Inferno (Original)
-
VS 4c 1
53 Towering Inferno (Winter)
-
VI 5 * 1
54 Nobody's Fault IV 6 9
55 Deep Cut Chimney (Summer)
-
VD * 14
56 Deep Cut Chimney IV 5 267
57 Devil's Advocate E4 6a * 3
  Grey Buttress
59 Lion of Judah VS * 3
60 The Serpent
-
E3 5c *  
61 Hell's Lump
-
VS 4c ** 41
62 Hell's Lump (Winter)
-
V 6  
63 Hell's Lump Direct (Winter)
-
VII 7  
64 Hell's Lump Evil Spirits Variation (Winter)
-
VII 8  
65 Evil Spirits
-
E2 5c ** 10
66 Unleashing Hell
-
E4 6a  
67 The Exorcist
-
HVS 5b ** 8
68 The Exorcist VIII 8 ** 1
69 Good Intentions VS * 12
70 Good Intentions (Winter)
-
VII 7  
71 Drop Out
-
E2 5b  
72 To Hell and Back E10 6c ***  
73 Chariots of Fire E4 ** 8
74 The Pothole
-
VD 1
Climb name Grade
75 The Pothole (Winter)
-
III * 1
  Hell's Lum Sector
77 Hell's Lum (summer)
-
VD 1
78 Hell's Lum II 153
79 The Chancer V 6 24
80 Boke
-
IV 4 1
81 The Bengal Lancer
-
HVS 5a  
82 Styx
-
VS 4c * 2
83 Firewater
-
VS 4b * 1
84 Spin
-
HS  
85 Arc of a Diver
-
E2 5c ** 1
86 Puke VD * 1
87 Puke (Winter)
-
III  
88 The Gullet III 8
89 Sic
-
VD  
90 Sic (Winter)
-
III 1
91 Raw Mince
-
VD  
  Glasnost Slab
93 Independence
-
E1 5b 2
94 Perestroika E2 5c * 2
95 Glasnost
-
VS 5a * 1
96 Anarchy
-
VS 4c * 1
  Lower Slab
98 Firestone E7 6b ** 4
99 Cerberus E3 5c 2
100 Hell's Gate
-
HVS 4c 1
101 Noddy
-
S  
102 Firestarter
-
E3 6a  
103 Mars E1 5b * 3
104 Pluto E1 5a * 5
105 Goofey
-
VS 4c 1
106 Purgatory Wall S 4a 1
107 Purgatory Wall Variation Start HS 5a 1
108 Cascade V 6  
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  Hell's Lum Crag Routes

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