Crag features

Lower Gorge - First mentioned in old YMC guides where some climbs were mentioned as being unsatisfactory.  There are currently three developed walls a short way into the gorge. Glue-in bolts that are hard to spot have been used throughout.  The different character of the walls makes for a lot of variety. Shade and sunlight are possible though the former is usually later in the day. It can be breezy through the narrow part of the gorge and the Elements Wall will seep in winter. A good option in hot weather.

Upper Crag - Over many years attempts have been made to establish climbs at this crag. A traditional approach was tried many years ago but the main wall proved somewhat hard and unprotected for such a small crag, plus the landings are poor above the main wall so the climbs were never satisfactory. On the less steep right side, a trad approach yielded around half a dozen route/problems/top-ropes and, more recently, a couple of bolts appeared as the top is devoid of belay points. These were recorded on UKC. Landings there are better. Recently, shorter crags have proven to work with a sport approach and this may well work here too although their brevity makes them hard to grade. The rock is extremely good and the routes pack a punch. The approach and location are fine and, for those who don’t mind their routes being short, a day here is one well-spent. All of the problems and routes can top-out but there are no natural belays. Lower-offs and/or top ropes can be made using bolts located either on top of the crag or slightly hidden in the cleft that separates the main wall from the hillside.Hang a couple of long slings off a bolt. It is possible to back each one up by connecting it to another. A couple more long slings, or a short length of rope, are therefore useful.