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Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 42m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

A series of impressive high walls set above a non-tidal platform - quite reminiscent of the Trevallen cliffs of south Pembroke - with a varied mix of over 40 sport and trad routes, many new, and many taking perfect orange rock. Away from it all with only the sound of the sea, just the ticket for some high quality climbing away from Marine Drive's hordes.

The north-facing cliffs receive little sun - just as well then that the bird restriction makes it a summer crag. Seepage isn't a problem on most routes.

Approach notes

Park on a sharp right-hand bend 300m past Hamburger Buttress - a yellow grit bin makes a useful marker. Walk up the road for 200m then hop over the wall at the '1950' mark pointed on the pavement (just past a metal drain cover). Descend a shallow gully past a large rectangular block, then head down leftwards towards a metal marker stake. Head left from this to 3 bolted abseil points. A 55m abseil from any of these will land you on the non-tidal platform. The first two will also drop you onto the Upper Tier. Don't forget your jumar! Re-clipping the ab rope to a lower-off allows that route to be climbed for exit, followed by an easy jug up the grassy top bit.

Restricted Access

The cliff is restricted from 1st March - 31st July for nesting birds.

Not worth visiting. Poor routes. A lot of the bolts are in bad nick. Lower offs are poor/ non existant.
Double Knee Bar - 26/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

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