Climbs 34
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SE

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Nearing the top section of Crinoid. © JonHarvey

Crag features

A secluded sun-trap which dries quickly after rain. The main cliff is an amazing slab. Why not try Crinoid (E1 5b), Flash Dance (E3 5c) and Blinding Flash (E4 6a). Some crucial pegs were replaced in 2015 and it is essential to back up those which remain. Most of the routes can be adequately protected. Don't miss out on the excellent deep water solos in the vicinity. The Pinnacle Traverse Continuation working westwards from Telegraph Hole is a classic.

Approach notes

Drive towards the centre of Torquay, heading for the harbour. Go around this, passing a clocktower-roundabout and drive up past the Imperial Hotel. 100m past a steep left hand bend turn right, then next right, and right again under a height barrier to enter the free car park, with views across the bay towards Berry Head Quarry.

Follow the path from the RH end of the car park (looking seaward) under an arch. 10m on, a vague path leads L through some bushes toward the sea. Keep going down the path to a quarried wall; climb over this to a rocky rib, and follow this to the quarry floor.

Access Advice

The rotting tree stumps are becoming unsafe to belay on but search out some of the interim measures. A superb in-situ thread is found 15m across the slope from the top of Flashdance. There is a stake at the top of Nardly Stoad's Climb and a peg in a slab some 15m up the slope from here. Another stake (only half inserted) has been placed above The Thoughts of Chairman Mao. Don't rely on just one belay point!

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Some of the stumps getting soft and crumbly July 14. Usable, but getting worse.
jayjackson - 20/Jul/14
Tree stumps useable December 2013.
JaffaCakes - 04/Dec/13
Tree stump belays still useable as of December 2011.
Dave 88 - 07/Dec/11
Tree stumps still usable May 2011, but as Quadmyre says they will rot away eventually. Worth considering bringing a set up line to make it easier to rig belays from the trees further back.
jayjackson - 18/May/11
Just been down to Torquay wondering about in the rain and all the trees at the top of Telegraph hole have been cut down. That makes the rim descent a bit more serious in places as it's quite muddy and no trees to hold on to but more importantly the belays for the majority of the routes are now gone. The stumps will probably be fine girth-hitched for a while but will inevitably rot away and without the roots the top of the crag is likely to start to erode. Not good. I assume this is connected with the coastguard watchtower which I see has been done up and now has a watchman in (rather than being an abandoned shack for tramps).
Justin T - 16/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2 Saline
S 4a 55
3 Praline
VS 5a 49
4 Aquiline
HVS 5a 30
5 Telescopic Arms
E1 5b 6
7 Megatarts
VS 4c 7
8 Stratagem VS 4c 13
9 Stratatarts
HVS 4c 3
11 Mad Hatter
D 44
12 Mock Turtle
M 17
13 Nardly Stoad's Climb S 138
Climb name Grade
14 White Queen S 122
15 Slithy Tove HVD 60
16 Bird Scarer E2 5c 109
17 Let Your Fingers do the Walking
E4 6a * 6
18 Blinding Flash E4 6a *** 50
19 Flashdance E3 5c *** 129
20 Crinoid E2 5c *** 286
21 Goldfinger E2 5c 6
22 Midas Touch HVS 5a ** 193
23 Link-up with Lenin E2 5c 4
24 Total Control E1 5b 6
25 Liaison With Lenin HVS 5a ** 149
26 Buzby
E2 5c 5
Climb name Grade
27 Discuss the Thoughts of Chairman Mao VS 4b 81
28 Jericho
VS 4a 2
29 Swing Low
S 8
30 Mighty Atom
E1 5b 5
31 Mighty Cheese
S 4
32 Plimsole line continuation S * 28
33 Eventide M 5c 10
34 The Toss-Off 6b+ * 6
35 Naked Suprise 4c 2
36 Five Fingered Widow 5c 2
37 Five Knuckle Shuffle 6a+ 3

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